How To Make Your Novritsch SSG10 Alot Quieter! 

Fax it works asf

What is the sillicone used i dont fully understand

Glad it worked well for you bud !

I forgot to ask what sort of foaming did you use to put inside your stock

I used foam that came in a pistol case :)

Yea my friends isn't same as mine either you need to try lubing the sear or filling the cylinder window down slightly

me too but i love this barrel cuts and dont whant to not see them

Very weird as neither of them touch the hop unit

Really?

Nah

Easier to do them all at once so you don't have to take the gun apart as many times but it doesn't make to much difference

It's just camo duct tape over the end and then slice a cross pattern across the center

@@LeadFootUK alright thanks

I dont unfortunately, its comparable to my srs with the sound, the pitch of the ssg is slightly higher than the srs so I can tell the srs still has the edge but still really good

You can download an app to measure and store peak DB on your mobile.

@@jay-kyleducati5811 if you want an inaccurate reading, sure

It’s called a fart flap all you have to do it put tape over the the top where the hole is and then shoot the gun and it will make a whole in the tape and that’s it

U can just put tape on the end and shoot

Fair enough, It would of been the exact same process as shown with a longer barrel is all

Keep forgetting to make the video! With my new ssg10 I ended up using heat shrink. I'll make a video on it either this week or next :)

I have uploaded the video now :)

Nice thank u, i'll watch it on my breakfast brake :)

Thicker grease would solve that

In this build it was the standard inner barrel that came with the gun

1. 6% 2. 15% 3. 10% (but for your own benefit) 4. 5% (again own benefit) 5. 1% Mine and my friends ssg the same the only difference is the airbreak and mine is way quieter 🤷🏻‍♂️

I put air brake pins in my srs with a variable mass piston did not make a lick of difference to noise.

@@willieaway This is the ssg bud not the srs

LeadFootUK yeah I know, just saying I found they same in my srs. I also see on Novritsch website they try to make you not buy the air brake pins. You think a Sorbo pad would also help?

@@willieaway I think it all helps, even if it changes the pitch it helps as I say I can hear my friends shooting from 20m away but mine can just about be hear 10m

All suppressors work they just need a bit of playing with internally to make sure work more efficiently, I hadn't heard of it until now but It seems like a good idea I just don't understand why you wouldn't need a shorter outer barrel because you are still putting a suppressor on the end of your barrel so adding length to your long barrel.

It is the spring in the trigger box, if you disassemble the rifle with the screws at the base of the gun, once you have the shell off there will be two more screws on the trigger, undo them and pull the trigger off and you can see the spring through a hole in the triggerbox, get some thick silicon lube and put some in and around the spring and that will stop the ringing. I haven't found the can mod to be as effective but I need to make video for the can mod I think so I will eventually get around to this as soon as I have the time :)

@@LeadFootUK Thank you!

Rapax 2j spring

In this one was a rapax 2j+ spring but my most recent one has the standard novritsch m150 :)

@@LeadFootUK Thank you!

2.2j is lower than 500fps so why would it be not allowed to game?

Light sanding on the cylinder sorts it usually

If you push the trigger box back in toward the front of the gun it should seat in flush to the receiver if you watch 13:08 onward I put the trigger box back in the gun, make sure the cylinder is in the gun also

@@LeadFootUK Thanks for the reply, Ive done the trigger box like the time stamp. However could you expand on how the cylinder should be out the gun? in you vid its already installed before you screw in the trigger box?

@@fabienthresher My apologies what I mean was, make sure your cylinder is in the gun with the handle locked in down position as per in the video

@@LeadFootUK okay yeah, ive tried this too like the vid, still won't bolt back all the way. Can you think of anything else it could be? I must be doing something wrong here ... Thanks

@@fabienthresher Could be your spring not cocking back all the way, take the cylinder out and check the spring/spring guide, have you got fps adjuster rings on the spring guide?

So if you get a large can, cut a rectangle the length of the spring guide then wrap it around the spring guide so it just overlaps then shove the spring over and it's good to go, cock the gun a few times and it will settle in position and solve the problem. If you also lube the spring in the trigger box as I show in the video that will stop the biggest twang noise you hear when shooting :)

That's no problem, the double bell vsr10 is the same type of gun but has upgraded internals. So essentially your gun is how the ssg10 started life before they tinkered with it and upgraded all the parts inside it, I'm not 100% sure of the double bell model is compatible with all the upgrade parts that is made for the vsr10. The ssg10 is a Pre-Upgraded vsr10 basically

@@LeadFootUK thank you sir.

I had the same issue, can't remember where I seen it at, but if you lightly sand the cut out on the cylinder it will help a lot.

I see alot of people having this issue, It's a sort of normal fault on vsr-10s as the positioning of it is in the way, I remedied this by just removing the safety, there is a single Philips head screw holding it in just unscrew that and take off the spring and it will remove the safety. You can also but a plate that screws on to cover the hole left behind but it's not completely necessary if you don't mind the hole being there.

On 550fps around 80-85m

I have lubed the trigger sear and all the bolt but other than that nothing, I hear that the hole on the cylinder is too tight on some peoples which causes the scratchy pull so needs sanding out slightly

Christian Frigstad same with mine. I sanded the hole out and lubed it up and it’s still scratchy

Braedy for minecraft Good stuff I tried that but nothing works. How much do you have to sand because I did very little

Braedy for minecraft Good stuff yea my piston seems fine but the is little grooves in cylinder where the spring guide stopper god and I can’t get them to go away, did yours have that when you sanded it

Braedy for minecraft Good stuff yea I asked novritsch and he said the same thing but the grooves won’t go away maybe tougher grade sand paper would help of should I get a metal tool that will smooth it?

2.8j is 500fps on 0.2

What further details do you need bud you just explained the extent of it there

@@LeadFootUK welp, first off a head on look might help viewers understand what you mean by wrapped around the guide. Allow us to see down the guide axially to see the can piece between the spring and guide. Does it get curled into a tight spiral around the OD of the guide and then flare the spiral to the ID of the spring or just a straight cylinder shape with a small overlap? Just a question and suggestion mate, no need to talk down when folks ask a Q bc they didn't catch what you're explaining. Least it came across that way :/

@@onepunchairsoft So sensitive Its really not that deep bro, it's just a case of cutting the can and wrapping it around the guide, the overlap of can should only be around 1mm which will allow just enough movement for the spring to slide over it without catching on the can, its alot of trial and error

@@LeadFootUK gotcha. I was really stuck on how it's reducing rattle but the guide has less distance to move axially with the can in between the guide and spring. I thought it was coiled and using tension to essentially keep the guide in the center of the spring but it sounds like its loosely wrapped and not tension spring coiled.

Have you tried with high spring?

@@dddavid132 i did and not running 2.3 i sold it and bought an Action army T10 convertered to HPA

Yup, That is the setup I ran up until recently It actually works out better as the adapter works as a barrel spacer and holds the inner barrel centered. I only changed to a longer outer barrel as I had an accident with the shorter barrel and it broke. If you use a shorter outer barrel and standard long inner barrel you will need to run a suppressor as the barrel will stick out the end of the outer barrel.

@@LeadFootUK yeah that's my plan. I bought a 2nd hand ssg10 with the long barrel. I want to set it up as a run and gun platform. I use my hpa srs for hiding in a hole and being sneaky. Lol

@@grimmreaper5965 Its such a nice platform to just run and gun with, I've never ran mine with the long barrel, this weekend will be the first time so hopefully I don't mind the extra foot of barrel xD

I hear better things about the bolt that I do the mancraft

@@LeadFootUK which would explain why its 400

Any that is thick would work

LeadFootUK i don’t know if you’ll ever see the comment i made so I’m responding so it’ll pop up in your inbox hopefully :)

Absolutely amazing, It's lightweight, you aim you shoot you hit, just a general pleasure to use, can't ask for more really ! :)

@@LeadFootUK Thank you!

@@ScorchMat No problem at all, enjoy :)

Mine came pretty easy to be honest, there is a few method that you can do, but worth having a look in the ssg10 owners group on facebook and also searching on youtube as they will explain it better than I could over a message response :)

I am getting 332 fps on .45g bbs

Nope just pushed it into the holes and then when you screw gun back together it squeezes it in there and doesn't come out anyways, you could if you wanted but not essential

@@LeadFootUK Alright thanks, ended up just putting it in there like you said, works great. Appreciate it

@@rad5207 No problem at all :D

None at all as it doesn't hinder the travel any, the air that is generated from the piston covers the bb, as it flows through the barrel it pushes the flap open and then exists with the flap closing behind the bb when it is shot containing the noise, I have a double fart flap on my suppressor now and still no problems

@@LeadFootUK great thanks! looks like an easy mod to do for sure. I'm working on getting my ssg quiet right now too. I love these cheap easy mods with duct tape and coke cans haa! Thanks for the great vid. I'll probably make a video of mine too once I'm done modding. Modding is a deep rabbit hole once you get started!

@@ShotTactics I always get compliments on how quiet mine is and it's because I spend hours messing around with things and searching far and wide for random little techniques haha, the double fart flap is a good one I have internal and external flaps along with home made suppressor material :)

Nah highfive ☻️🙏

Also, a tutorial on how to make the fire flaps or whatever they are would be 🔥.

Hmm how strange, comparing my ssg to my friends mine is way quieter his is short outer barrel with novritsch suppressor also but I've done the mods, very weird and I can do a fart flap mod video sure :)

LeadFootUK cool! Fart flapp 😂.

What Ian said ^ 😬

On novritsch web site they don’t recommend air brake pins. But sell them because some people swear by them.

Every gun is different based on the mods. My vsr 10 has so many upgrade parts in it. And you need to know how to maintain and install those parts or else your gun will become useless. Your question has way to many factors.

I am not sure on the science behind it but the bigger they are the more sound they reduce the fps of the gun they all sound the same to me but you can notice the sound difference between one being on and not.

The A1

LeadFootUK thanks 🙏🏻

not in GA. here its like 550 fps with .25's at chrono

Thats 330 FPS with .45 gram which is equivalent to 460-470 fps with .20s that is also my limit here in the Northern part of the USA but I envy you! I think 2.8js or 550 with .20s is good for snipers lol

Original comment