Hallo Novritsch erst einmal möchte ich dir wirklich sehr danken dafür dass du das alles raus gebracht hast und dir so viel Mühe gegeben hast .Du bist mittlerweile ein echtes Vorbild und dein Erfolgsweg ist wirklich beachtlich ich habe dich schon seit 5 Jahren abonniert;)
1. very very accurate cleaning guide 👍 (like i learned it in 🇩🇪BW) 2. You should really add at least one sheet of the cellulose wipes to the SSG10!!! 3. A link to this video should be in your „Start“ Booklet! 4. I would love to have a part in the video how to change to lefty setup also!(i can do it, but for the beginners) 5. also pls think about to have a changeable knob with a 6 or 8mm thread and pls also for lefty’s 🙂 6. and again very very good guide, top notch! i am very persnickety in such things („Beamtenkind“ in German 😁)
Hey Novritsch I bought the ssg10a1 recently and had some issues with installing the m180 spring, eventually it fit but I noticed the m180 spring is longer and has a lot more strength, would you recommend still using it?
I don't have a sniper but I'm getting the ssg10A1 later this year, should I buy the novritsch maintenance kit now for my aeg, it looks pretty handy tbh
Me gustaría saber si alguien me ayuda,para cada pieza cual usa ,el mecánico el aceite de silicona 100 cst o 1.000 por qué no lo muestra o no lo veo si alguien puede decirme
Hey Novritsch, Why should I choose the SSG24 over the SSG10A1, which is designwise almost the same but is much cheaper, takes stronger springs and has 25 yrs waranty...?
There's no reason to, unless you just like the way the SSG24 looks / feels. The SSG10 appears to have higher performance for a lower price compared to the SSG24.
@@chuckberry1979 because he states "perfect out of the box" with a 25yr warranty but sells broken garbage then refuses to do a thing about it....other companies will replace or refund....novritsch is a freaking theif....
@@bloodymick7415i personally never had any problems claiming warranty on there products. Good luck getting any warranty coverage on China and Taiwan companies.
Not even close to how you clean a 'REAL' gun. First thing that I am seeing is that there is NO scrubbing. Trust me, you aren't going to wear down chromed chambers and the like. Shooting it, maybe. By cleaning it? You would have to be the strongest person in the history of the universe (He-Man) in order to make even a 'dent' on even some of the 'lightest' of metals. Cleaning a spring -- OF ANY KIND -- you clean to dry it, then clean it about 10,000 more times. Then use a cleaning solvent and brush, dry it again, use a detergent based gun oil -- like CLP, then dry it again, then dip it into the solvent again, dry it about 20,000 times (or so it would seem), then take a clean patch (preferably a cloth, I know that some people swear by synthetics but you CANNOT be just a wuss and think that you can do anything. For instance, AND example here, do NOT put a dirty patch anywhere but a /shitcan'. DO NOT REUSE a dirty cleaning patch or cloth. You will inevitably put the same 'schmutz' back into the airsoft piece that you just took out. Never EVER do that. I do not care who made the gun, designed the gun, tested the gun, licensed the gun or whatever, -- if they say to do so, they are idiots and not only does it become the case with a REAL firearm, it also goes towards airsoft guns and ANY mechanical piece -- say a cam lobe or a inside thread of a spark plug etc. NEVER !!! This advice is wrong -- on EVERY level. Do NOT do it. As to cleaning it, you need to be consistent as much as possible, but cleaning after 500 rounds? NOT consistent. As MOST honest-to-goodness firearms owner/users know, you clean it EVERYTIME you use it -- PERIOD -- NO EXCEPTIONS. You take care where 'consumables' are concerned (rubber gas isolation rings (i.e., 'O' rings) or 'pucks' and/or 'shoes'. You make it/them as CONSISTENT as possible though. If it requires you to remove and replace (R&R) and that gets costly, sorry about yer luck! That's what you do -- PERIOD! Just clean it completely and consistently and use your head as to what to do and use. Expect at a minimum, an hour. Expect to go through 500 or more 'Q-Tips' and several types of materials, that $10 4 oz., bottle of CLP? Expect it to be gone. That $8 bag of patches? Kiss THAT goodbye as well. etc. Finally, as a side note, when oiling up a patch, drench that patch in oil if you need a heavy oiling. A 1x1 patch used for middle-of-the-road oiling? 1 - 2 drops whilst making sue that the patch DOES have a very small/excess amount of oil on it. A light cot (which should be your final coat (if you planning on using anytime soon) -- in most cases is just enough oil on the patch to see that it HAS transferred on to the object you intend to oil. AVOID OVEROILING IT! If you will be putting the weapon away for the season, a medium to heavy oil coat and re-clean it before use. If you plan to store it more than four months -- COSMOLINE it. DO NOT USE Vaseline or WD-40 for LONG TERM use as it will 'attack' and be corrosive to soft seals and soft materials like rubber and certain plastics. Not that the stuff is bad, just use it for what it is designed to do. Last note, if you use ANY thread lock(er), maike sure that the screw/pin or inserting material is free from contaminants, rust, oil, grease or ANY KIND. Make sure that what is being screwed INTO is similarly treated. Thread lock(er) is famously known to fail if it cannot expand and then set up and an incorrectly prepared surface will cause just that. Use DENATURED alcohol to treat those surfaces. As well, a tip about alcohol? It IS an astringent. It sops up moisture making things dry. It can EASILY rust your weapon. If you use it and the part is treated (and usually, should be) with alcohol or Acetone (or ANY astringent type propriety) do NOT forget ro re-lube, or you make face massive rust issues.
