HOW TO: Pre-Shade Without An Airbrush

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Hey ho! Welcome to another little how-to guide, in which I show
how you too can get a pre-shading effect without an airbrush. Yes! You can!
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All musical pieces used herein - including "Jinxy, Tinkle & Mush" - unless otherwise credited in the titles or this text are composed and performed by by Foxx Wolf/dogsounds and used with permission - from me, because I composed, arranged and recorded them, and it is all original work ^_^
Titles & Title music from "Build Your Vocabulary" Coronet Instructional Films 1948 (PUBLIC DOMAIN)
Additional music by Scott Buckley used under Creative Commons CC-BY licence: www.scottbuckley.com.au
"Perspectives" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com) Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/b...
Some additional music taken from the RU-vid licence-free archive.
Sound effects used provided by freesfx.co.uk www.freesfx.co.uk
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#airbrush #models #painting

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Опубликовано:

9 окт 2018

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Комментарии : 52

@ronmac9522 5 лет назад

Very helpful tutorial sir. This will come I handy as I don't own a airbrush. You have to get a T-shirt for Ted with"SLAP IT ON"!

@gurufoxx 5 лет назад

We do do a workbench apron with that: www.cafepress.co.uk/boomhut.88254492

@johnmattioli9077 5 лет назад

Great tutorial on shading with a paint brush. While i mainly airbrush my work I have been following your brush painting work with keen interest. Love your videos!

@gurufoxx 5 лет назад

Thank you ^_^

@raimee81 4 года назад

What nice about this technique too is that there is much more variety in the pre-shading. If done with an airbrush, it will look quite uniform all around the model. This was a very helpful video! I've been trying to find ways to reduce airbrush use. I'm so lazy to clean that thing.

@gurufoxx 4 года назад

That's true! I'd glad you found it helpful ^_^

@TheMcLeish 5 лет назад

Nice tip! Nice to see, and the golden mancunian tones of mcwolferton are pleasing to the ears

@bpezzano1 5 лет назад

Awesome tip! I'm going to try on the bottom of the Tiffy.

@ruebenglab4939 5 лет назад

Great little video Foxx Have to give this a try!

@michaelgershon870 5 лет назад

Very cool technique Foxxy!

@josephjohnpalarca5301 5 лет назад

awesome video! loved the retro intro.

@jsidaho1957 5 лет назад

Thanks for the tutorial Foxx, this is a great alternative to airbrushing !

@spacehamsterZH 5 лет назад

I'm really enjoying this new "Foxx hates his airbrush" subplot. ;-)

@gurufoxx 5 лет назад

^_^

@rickytoddbotelho9555 5 лет назад

Excellent.

@Ryzearn 5 лет назад

Wanna try this on my Tau flyer I've been trying to figure out how I wanted to paint it cause I didn't want to paint it the same way as my ground vehicles

@morMICRO 5 лет назад

Hi Foxx; recently I've been told that the maker of the old school citadel paints still makes them under the brand "coat d'arms", would be cool to see you cracking a jar open and comparing to the newest paint they use. thanks for the vid and have a god day.

@gurufoxx 5 лет назад

Yes, IIRC that is correct, although Coat d'Arms is now owned by Black Hat Miniatures: www.blackhat.co.uk/coat-darms/ I may well do at some point ^_^

@RobotJeeg 5 лет назад

This is post-shading! Pre shading is painting the edges of panels with darker colors. Post shading is painting the center of panels with a lighter color. But it's a good technique! I want to try this. I use Vallejo...I don't know if they dry too quickly for this technique. I'll see. Thank you.

@gurufoxx 5 лет назад

Yes, I know that. It's aimed at people who know what pre-shading with an airbrush is but who do not have an airbrush and who are looking for alternative ways to do it - so titling it "post-shading" would mean nothing to them as they may not even know post-shading is a thing ^_^

@firhangfirhangious5452 5 лет назад

both wrong fellaz this is highlighting...pre-shading is tinting the corners with dark color than applying a lighter color on top, post-shading is applying darker color on a lighter color and highlighting is applying lighter color on the darker one focusing on the central part without covering the whole surface...voilá ;)

@el_dor4do 5 лет назад

I am new to the hobby and looking for a tutorial like this for a whole week and gladly I found it! I will paint my kit for the first time with a paint brush cuz I can't afford airbrush. I already primed my kits grey and want to do this technique, I will use tamiya acrylics to paint, should I paint it black first before the main color? Or do you recommend using dark grey as base coat? Hoping for best response, tyia :D

@gurufoxx 5 лет назад

My one piece of advice for brush painting with Tamiya acrylics is DO NOT brush paint with Tamiya acrylics! They are not water based, they are alcohol based and more like lacquers, and are designed to be airbrushed. They do not work well when brushed and you cannot use them on a wet palette. You want to use a water-based acrylic like Citadel or Vallejo which are designed with brush-painting in mind and are very forgiving (Citadel paints are absolutely the best paints for brush painting, in my humble experience). You do not have to paint black as a base coat if your model is not black. Your grey primer is fine as it is pretty neutral and will not darken colours painted on top of it (keep in mind that colours like whites and yellows can be very transparent and the primer colour will affect those more) Also consider making a wet palette if you do use water-based acrylics - it will help you paint better and will make your paints last longer: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EOy6nCf7HZk.html

@ascensionindustries9631 5 лет назад

Would like to try this on my next two HG kits. Since I already have Vallejo Mech Color and Tamiya paints, do you think one would be any better than the other for this technique?

@gurufoxx 5 лет назад

You want to use water-based acrylics so Mech Colours would be fine. as would really any Vallejo colours or any water-based model paints. Tamiya are alcohol-based and can go weird and ball up very quickly as they dry out, so you may find they are not as useful for creating fade and blend effects like this with dry brushing as they may just leave a messy, lumpy surface.

@ascensionindustries9631 5 лет назад

Thanks. I've dry brushed some weathering with my Tamiya paints and that worked fine but I didn't know how they would work with this. It seems that every paint is different and has their own unique quirks when it comes to hand painting. Hope all is well with Momma Foxx!

@kle2217 4 года назад

Great technique as an option. How would you apply this to a white surface? Is the technique the same, and would you use different colored grey powder to do so? thx

@gurufoxx 4 года назад

A white surface would be a lot more tricky as white paints tend to get very powdery, very quickly - so drybrushing would need to be minimised. I am not convinced that it would be doable without getting a really orange-peely finish, to be honest. It might be the case that perhaps for white models, an alternative approach - like dry-brushing darker oil paint colours into recesses OR doing an oil-paint "gunk wash" of a colour a little bit darker than white would would give better results (oil paints give a smooth finish and can be wiped away before they cure where they are not wanted, so allow for a lot more finessing and smooth fading and blending).

@kle2217 4 года назад

@@gurufoxx Thanks for the info. Maybe at some point (when you're running of ideas for videos) you could do another video and perhaps try this other method on a white piece. Keep those videos coming.

@choppergunner8650 3 месяца назад

I am planning on building an F-117A Nighthawk, and I was thinking of doing something like this, to pick out those different panels, but then I'm here thinking: if I'm using acrylics only, perhaps a very thinned layer of black over the preshading would make it even more subtle? Or the water and the paint would totally ruin the preshading? I am a bit scared that the water might end up diluting the preshading into the paint and turning it into an absurd mess later on.

@gurufoxx 3 месяца назад

In all honesty, I think airbrushing would give much better results for something like an aircraft: this drybrushing technique does impart a very subtle texture and is great for rugged armour or weathered vehicles where you'll be adding grime or dirt and you can be a bit rough around the edges. For sleek, well-maintained aircraft and such I think it would possibly look a bit crunchy and airbrushing a primer layer, a pre-shade line layer and then building up the the fuselage colour would make much more sense.

@choppergunner8650 3 месяца назад

@@gurufoxx I have no airbrush 😭 doing everything with a set of brushes I have. I was thinking of starting with a base black paint, doing some spotting with diluted white paint, letting it dry and then adding a very fine layer of diluted black paint on top. Alternatively, while building an 1/72 Abrams earlier last month, I found out that heavily diluted water-based correction fluid (stuff used to cover up pen mistakes) did give me a lighter finish. Story goes as this: Italeri 1/72 M1 Abrams model set from 2009. Paints inside only really give one option, which is the desert camouflage used in the Gulf War. Armor Sand paint is somehow too dark, as if it was mixed with something else. After painting the whole model with it, I had the brilliant idea of diluting the correction fluid with a few drops of tap water and brushing it all over the model, which lightened the color a bit.

@gurufoxx 3 месяца назад

@@choppergunner8650 Heh. that's interesting about the correction fluid. That's the best way to discover new techniques - try random stuff out and see what happens :) Your method of using glazes over the black base might work but it would take many many coats, I suspect, and the risk of overall painting with water-thinned paints are tidemarks and other weird effects that water creates when it breaks up the paint binders. But, if you have an old junker kit you can test it on, give it a try for sure. Thinking about it, dry-brushing *might* work but you would need to make sure you use a very soft dry brush, and maybe restrict the shading to the back base and then a dry-brushed off black. That way you would not have *too much* paint build up and might avoid texture. And then once that's done, add a glaze of a dark blue or dark grey colour - like, a massively thin glaze - just to tint the surface a tiny bit and even out the dry brush coats. Again, if you have a junker model, do some tests on that to see what happens :)

@choppergunner8650 3 месяца назад

@@gurufoxx thank you! Here in Brazil, while modellers love to use putty to cover large gaps, correction fluid can be used to cover very small areas such as wing joints or small gaps in tank armor. So it essentially works like filler too! All you gotta do is run a damp cotton bud across it to wipe off the excess and also smooth it down, if the area is too difficult to work on, or you can simply smooth it down with a file on flat surfaces. It's honestly amazing what people come across when on a money shortage, as modelling tends to be much more expensive here than in America, Europe or Japan.

@TheScratcherStudios 5 лет назад

But HOW did you paint the base color? how did you get into the crevices more or less even? did you think your color super watery so it flows into the creveces or how?

@gurufoxx 5 лет назад

That wasn't really the focus of this video, but all the paint was brushwork. Black primer and a basecoat just brushed on. I use a wet palette and the tiniest amount of water to think the paint a little. I pretty much show the while technique here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Vdq-Nx6KJXQ.html

@triruns 5 лет назад

What if I only have two paints where one is just slightly darker than the other one?

@gurufoxx 5 лет назад

Using more than two is optional, not mandatory ^_^ Or you could always snag a third colour to make mixes, add a little white (or yellow for warm colours) and mix up a little bit of with the lighter of the two to make a third tone - you wouldn't need much.

@haiqaliskandar7056 2 года назад

Imagine doing this on fighter jet kit :)

@gurufoxx 2 года назад

Ha ha maybe an Ork Dakkajet :)

@haiqaliskandar7056 2 года назад

@@gurufoxx hey, could you do the hand brush painting tutorial for aircraft. Particularly the modern fighter jet?

@gurufoxx 2 года назад

@@haiqaliskandar7056 I'm afraid I don't make aircraft kits (apart from the Warhammer Ork Blastajet I filmed recently) as aircraft and clean builds are not an area of interest for me - but I never say never, I may do one day ^_^

@haiqaliskandar7056 2 года назад

@@gurufoxx between minibase su-33 and f-14d from hobbyboss. Which one is worth to buy? I like the more details in minibase kit. But it is a bit expensive for noobies like me

@gurufoxx 2 года назад

As I say, I don't build aircraft kits, so I couldn't possibly offer you any helpful advice on those two kits, sadly. You might like to join my Facebook group The Modelmaker's Boomhut though ( facebook.com/groups/modelboomhut ) - there's almost 4000 other builders on there of all types who will more than happily help you out and advise you :)

@medicsoldier22 3 года назад

You sound like vision/ paul bethany.

@gurufoxx 3 года назад

Ha ha, do I?

@davecardboard9567 5 лет назад

When "twisting up" the highlight colours, I find myself repeatedly uttering the incantation "happy little trees" whilst working. Just me...? I did something similar using oils to add sun bleach effects - of course oils gave a lot longer blending time. I found it a lot less scary that trying to post shade with an airbrush.

@gurufoxx 5 лет назад

Yup, just you ^_^ Yeah, oils can give much smoother fades and blends because of their long drying times, but the downside is their long drying times :(

@artfuldodger9312 5 лет назад

I'm sorry, but I have to burst your bubble!! Nothing beats the airbrush when it comes down to pre-shading. Your approach is too time-consuming for one thing, and looks very patchy. An airbrush to do it in a fraction of the time.

@gurufoxx 5 лет назад

I explained in the video that the technique is aimed at people that don't have or cannot afford an airbrush, or choose not to use one (and it is really aimed at tabletop miniature painters, where models are usually seen from a few feet away and not close-up). I did also state it would be not quite as smooth as an airbrush finish.