And even with the much lower tuning fq port than the speaker.I think if we can match the tuning of the port and the tuning of the speaker somehow,we could possibly get higher spl rating.And the control of the box over the speaker is too low so we cant push the speaker harder because there is no backpressure.I know he didnt build the box for the max spl rate,ım just mindstorming.Keep up the good work!
@@brianb4501 I understand he did this build because his viewers asked to see this, and this box type requires tons of air space, and to be honest, it is impressive for a single 6.5 inch subwoofer. It sounded great in my headphones. Im used to putting 6.5's in the doors lol. If I'm giving up 5.5 cubes of trunk space, I'd have to have an 15 to 18 inch sub because cone area is king in my book. Still very impressive to have a 6.5 inch sub hitting nice and low with good bandwidth. Good job building that crazy box. I haven't had a system in my car since I had a horrible, horrific 2021 and I got hit by a guy who blew a stop sign, and separately had a Pulmonary Embolism that nearly killed me, but I'm making a comeback and I'll have another truck with maybe a pair of the JP23v2's strapped and a JP 234 on the mids and highs for the front stage and eventually another JP 234 to power my 4x 6.5" enclosure for mids and highs in the back of the truck.
Dude you are by far the best production value in all of car audio, thank you so much for setting such a high standard. The video was great, the shot of the interior rearview area said it all, and the choice to do a horn is flipin sweet. Ps can you give us a close up of the AMM1 during testing and playing so I can gage the enclosure rise and watts thx!
That's arguably not a FH, more of a TL. Not saying it doesn't work, just different parameters. The lack of initial throat is really the crux, but the length of path, the undersized mouth, and the bends in the path effectively change it enough to not be a true horn. Fun hint: creating a small throat connected to the rear of a specific volume induces similar resonances as a port and improves the drivers ability to maintain control of the cone movement. Changing your flare rate to take advantage of the size of the box and increase the mouth size will also help cone control. Smoothing the bends will help frequency response, too. Still a fun project, have fun learning!
You are very intelligent. I don't know how you learned everything that you know til this point, but I've been watching your content for a while now. Continue your journey sir, you're doing an amazing job. 💪🏿
I like the digital "trophy room" of all your designs. It really shows off the difference in size and shape, as well as quickly getting a good look inside different enclosures.
I’d try sizing the mouth down to about half that size and scaling down the rest of the enclosure to match. I think closer to 1-1 cone to mouth is about ideal for that woofer and for most 6 1/2 and 8” woofers in my opinion. I’m pretty sure you’d get a surprisingly impressive response and output and save yourself a bit more space. Just my opinion, excellent video though. I wish more people would build horn enclosures for car audio.
Good day Budget Bass Head. This has to be one of the best car audio sub enclosure videos that I've seen, and I live on RU-vid Car Audio vids. If I didn't see that 6.5" Meso myself, make 37hz and turn 133db I would not have believed it. Please keep up the superbly grand job, your are extremely and meticulously informative with loads od detail.
Subscribed 9 mins into the video questioning why I didn't do it earlier. Top notch detail and explanations. I look forward to watching your other videos!
There are some interesting enclosure designs that can do wonders for bass. My local guy built me a transmission line box for an American bass 12” I had years ago and that box was awesome. It had great range and could get low.
Great lay-mans terms explanation / video. I figured you'd be blown away. I've build a few horn designs (by others), one using a fairly low end 10" sub for a car. Using the factory car amp, bypassing the existing built in 10 blew us away.
Sir, you are one the the sharpest audio gods on here! Also my favorite due to all the detailed explanation you fit in on your videos. Awesome video! I never watch any of your videos without learning a ton of great stuff. I thank you once again!
Currently on a journey of making a custom box for my single 12 setup. Got a steal on Facebook marketplace and have been tinkering with it to get some decent performance. Finally got a solid 1500RMS sent to it and it clips the amp before any distortion so going to give it a good 2000RMS soon and upgrade to a manufacturer spec box. Currently have it in a 1.75 cu ft and it’s suffocating only giving me 118dB. In the process of making it a 2.6 cu ft box tuned at 33hz. 💪🏼
CT Sounds should definitely get more love than they do. I currently have a Meso-12 and it's a very high quality sub. I recommend them to everyone. I really enjoyed your video. It was very informative.
This was super interesting thank you for the information. Not sure if you were aware at the time but the lc2i actually has roll off below 33hz so you might have lost numbers below that.
After watching your video I had to build one put 2 ct tropos 6.5 in it with a 350 watt mono amp dropped to 1 ohm sounds amazing I listen to all kinds of music I tell people the drummer is in the trunk lol.
Very interesting. Does the line have to be in one direction? I mean, could you make the box taller, but less wide if you not only turned the opening side to side, but also up and down? I'm not sure how to explain it 😄
I wouldn't mind seeing two on a tapped horn enclosure loaded off the trunk . 🤯🤯🤯 by the way I really appreciate your videos. Thanks for sharing. keep up the amazing work
I must say, making a 6 in sub perform like that is impressive. I'm thinking about it myself. the only thing i would like to know is what if it was down firing? would the performance change.
Years ago I proposed the design of an sql woofer on the sundown forum. My post was deleted and years later I start seeing these things first in the x series sundown , then everywhere. I'm not sure what happened there , but I remember the comments that were said . One thing for sure , the dual spider big motor long throw 6 and 8" drivers offer maximum power density and can deliver clean linear spl in the right box.
Yes, I've suggested an RTA for him also. I'd go one step further, though. If you use a xlr microphone to xlr/USB cable you can swap the microphone for an rca cable and see the electrical frequency response. This is super handy for seeing crossovers (active and passive) work as well as verifying signals going into an amp. Calibrated Dayton Audio mic, cable and xlr adapter is under $125 also. These frequency response charts would add a lot of good info to the videos.
@@JasonWW2000 Agreed. Cool tip on the XLR/USB cable... haven't tried for my purposes but nice to have for sure. Little bit more pricey to put together but the UMIK-1 seems to be the easiest defacto all-in-one standard where you don't need phantom power and mics are already calibrated nicely and work well with REW. As far as his testing goes, with the the effort he goes through to show simulations, the cost of a RTA is insignificant and it would be a no-brainer to include. He already has a AMM-1, wouldn't be much more of an effort to take multiple SPL/Power measurements (can be low power from an RTA or at high power wit the SPLLab) from 30-50Hz and put together a complete graph. At the end of the day, point SPL measurements are totally useless as the real story is told by SPL/Hz/power/power factor.
This is very cool. As someone who used to like SPL AND SQ+, I ALWAYS looked for something with balance. I've been looking at good 8s or a 10, because I cannot have muddiness with my house music.
Sir. Words cannot reflect the appreciation of your important contribution of your scientific and layman explanations and demonstrations of enclosures, speakers and amp experiments. You are on point I thank you.
i just had a argument with a friend over this ...that a unported 12 box is the best way to go he said ....lol......then i showed him this ...lol....amazing ...simply amazing ....
Sounded like on that sweep that you had output all the way down to 25hz! Fun project, though the only thing I wonder is how big of a box would be needed for a heftier sub. Maybe for small spaces the passive radiator setup is more practical?
I run this same Meso, mounted in reverse, due to the back on the woofer taking up so much enclosure volume. Unless, you're looking at it, you would think I'm running a 10 or 12 inch sub. It isn't a budget thing in my case, more about keeping the weight low, and occupy a relatively small amount of space.
Most folded horn enclosures are actually working like a transmission line; they are a quarter wave enclosure with some amount of damping. True horn loaded enclosures need a huge amount of mouth area. Even a Tapped Horn is not a true horn enclosure; it is only good over about one octave, with the quarter wave tuning setting the low corner, and the half wave tuning (necessarily one octave above the quarter wave tuning) setting the high corner; above that, they become too phasey to be high fidelity. They are very efficient, but only over that octave.
Congratulations! You have earned yourself a new subscriber. I’ve been looking for a solution installing a sub in a single cab pick up truck. I’m using a Punch 10” P3s, with a skar 350 watt amp. It’s okay, but it doesn’t hit anywhere near it would if I gad a cubic ft.
First off, thank you very much for making this video it is a masterpiece itself… now plz let me know the name of the 2 “fav songs” of yours with those dynamic bass drops you were talking about ??
Men you really need to make and test the DECWARE deathbox for 10", it looks like a very interesting project that promises to dupicate the power of the bass
Rear loaded horn, folded horn, Bose called it waveguide and trademarked it. These are all exemples of a transmission line enclosure. They've been around since the 1950's.
just built a t-line for my wifes car for 1 dark audio nko 8inch sub looks alot like your box only smaller gets down to 20hz up to around 90 loud and punchy very musical
I love coming across someone who knows what they are talking about! There is so much garbage out there on sound systems. I’ve always wanted to do a T line enclosure.
I love your videos and they have helped many like myself so thank you. One note that I belive I'm correct on but could be wrong is that horn enclosures don't need loading surfaces like bass reflex boxes do or so I've been told being that if you have a bass reflex box in your trunk it'll sound loud until you open the trunk (the box loses its loading pressures) where as the horn doesn't lose much output from opening the trunk. I bet you would pick up a few db from loading the horn off a wall that's 1.0-1.5x the size of the port.
Thanks! I would never use something that takes up this much space, but great video. You know your stuff and put it together into a video better than I've seen other people do.
Qtr wave T-Lines and folded horns are my fave. You’re exactly correct about true horns and T-Lines. A true T or H can actually play an octave lower at volume before db rolloff….. when designed and executed properly.
Once again, delivering practical install designs ....got a weatlth of knoledge and break it down to us laymen as well as practical install. I dont got a vehicle thats going to shows not sponsered by a speaker shop. The other half and kids love the stereo, i dont love having to haul my heavy ass box out and pull the fuse every time we go to grociery store, or on a trip anywhere..and the enclosure ideas u bring make her happy me happy and much appreaciated. I watch soundman , he an entertaing goof, but if want the how to and proper advise this is the guy im telling u . !
I have a 5th gen Camaro. Small trunk opening. Boxes are a struggle getting néeded volume that can actually fit in trunk.2 12s on only 1.7 cu feet per sub. Optimal 2.0 or more. Make up for it with 2k watt rms subs and 5k amp. Pouring on power makes it work nicely.
Excellent video. I have seen 2x12 subs with same power doing same results. Incredible how good is that little sub and efficiency you get from that cabinet. For a long time horn enclosures were go to solutions for PA applications. You would see them on everything from tweeters to subs. Their efficiency is huge and relates to the size of the opening if the horn. One you built looks like linear horn. It has way more challenges than necessary. More effective are exponential horns. They open up faster at the end of the horn. This provides big opening and high efficiency and fights reflections bit better. Thise also load the back of the driver more so they are safer too. They are harder to build though because they require bent tunnel. Think of the trumpet, thats firm of such horn. Regarding horns, biggest I remember was in a discotheque in Germany. Paramount Oark. Their subs were under the dance floor in practicality two rooms. One room was a closed box and other was used to build the horn. Then horn took 180 true the floor and ended up in huge vertical opening. It was as wide as the lowest part of the dance floor and went like to the chest hight. There were huge speaker's hanging everywhere playing full range. Talked with sound man he said they have measured 150 dB for the program and up to 170 peak bumps for making people go home. I believed him. It was brutal.
Im thinking of one of the more known audiophiles in Sweden, the late Bo Hansson, he built a new house where he made a bass horn with the outlet from the cellar up through the floor under the couch. I dont remember the exact specs but it was something like linear bass down to 18 hz and immense decibels with one watt.
Long time subscriber here. Love the horn designs. Salute to 25HZ to Life for shouting you out. HexiBase did one as well on his page. You know, now you have to do a full wavelength T-Line to compare against the horn..............(hint)...
BLHs basically perfectly couple with each other, stacking 4 of these in a van with enough power can technically get over 145dB without difficulty. Horn efficiency is insane!
I believe in that little sub I've got a 5 1/2 massive audio sub that I built a small 4th order enclosure for put it on a Rockford fosgate amp and that little thing shakes the doors door windows windshield using the right speaker speaker enclosure having the right power😊
I'm sure this has already been commented I just can't seem to find it but did you do any testing with the trunk open to nullify any losses you would get from cancellation? You probably already did, just curious. Good video though man, love watching your videos.
I remember watching a video a long time ago where a guy used the same sub and amp In a ported box and then a horn, the horn got way louder and played just as low but he spent a lot more money on the wood and material and the box was too big, he ended up realizing the cost is more efficient if he just bought another sub and used a smaller ported box to gain the same decibel level. Obviously this doesn’t work with small woofers but with medium to big builds it matters
Well done ! I've been involved in the car audio scene since the early '90s and I learned something new today! Thanks ! You got a new subscriber here! I never really ventured into the realm of folded horns and transmission line cabinets. I will be watching many more of your videos. Keep up the great content!
I have a 6" sub and I designed the box myself, but why does the sound it produce seems like it's floating, am I lacking power or did I design the box wrong?
Love the Video bud! I have a single M15 Trinity in the back of a Honda CRV. I can’t put a Horn type box but would like your knowledge and opinion to what design I should build. I like the long continuous deep bass. I’m open for what ever you throw my way and will send you pics of the build. I’d like to do some kind of fourth order with some acrylic. But again, I’d like your opinion on what would sound best. Thank you! Charles Phoenix
I can't believe what these small subs can do! New subscriber here. A horn for 2 12s must be 30 cubic feet lol I wonder how much space is behind the 3rd row in my suburban...
Impressive, and not the sound or output, which is nice, but more so your interest and self-motivation to create this. I have a question following your link to this driver; is this the dual 2 ohm or dual 4 ohm?
Did you ever try rear loading that horn? I watched this video awhile ago and just came across it again. I'd imagine that not only may you get a little more output, but I think you may gain a little extension. Depending on how close the coupling is it may extend the horn length and width, or it may end up being more like a quasi 5/6th order bandpass.
Great video. I just subscribed cause your videos are what kind i love to watch, real results that are shown and explained to help the average person. Thanks, also it look like you live in florida if so what part. I live in Fl.
Awesome build,& results! This may be a stupid question, but may i ask wuld an isobarik driver application decrease size on this enclosure, without harming sound quality?
I prefer the similar T style box. I built one years ago for under my rear truck seat. Box housed an eight inch woofer powered by about 550 watts at about 1.75 cu.ft. Most people thought I had two tens. Now I have two tens in a sealed box with aboth 1500 watts. It's a little tighter bass and prefer it.
The backloaded horn doesn't amplify anything, it increases efficiency by allowing loading and in some cases directionally with wave guide. a wave guide for 30 hz in a vehicle is unnecessary and highly impractical. So this is horn loaded only, the cabin is effectively the makeshift wave guide. Very cool video.
I love the animated schematics. I think undersized horns, at least when properly built, are built to project backwards, then up and over the sub itself, effectively turning the cabin into an extension of the horn.
@@modernbassheads5051 I'll just repeat your own quote... "NO SUBWOOFER ENCLOSURE PROJECTS BACKWARDS.." and leave it for everyone to ponder wtf brand crack you're smoking.
@@modernbassheads5051see: Klipschorn. The entire purpose was a rear firing horn meant to be placed so as to utilize room acoustics as part of further amplification. The concept is possible, but not so much in a car unless the enclosure was literally a big part of the cars frame/chassis.
I am amazed at the flex coming from this bro, I've only ever seen a small woofer flex one time and it was an 8 inch but holy shit all this from a 6.5 is kinda amazing, imagine where we'll be with big woofers in a couple years
First off awesome videos and amazing builds you might could help me with a wow factor build I am looking for but I am not tech savvy enough to get the details on the box from the programs that you are using I’m a new subscriber to your videos and I am trying to design a 6th -8th order box for one 6.5 to see what it can do in terms of multiple frequency peaks like 32hz/50hz/70hz (good deep bass with the ability to deliver the pop bass known from 10” subs )
Thank you so much! How would a guy like me go about getting this design basically and cut sheet exactly like this except I want to use an 8in CT sounds meso and it's going in the back of a 2000 Ford Explorer I should have plenty of room. Thank you again. Superb delivery!
Hey there @BudgetBassHead, i just learned of you to be honest and im seriously intrigued. What in your honest opinion would be the best type of enclosure for a single 15" Earthquake DBXI thats ran on about 400 watts? I have it in a custom aero ported enclosure and it does very well actually. But id love to suprise more people with it being even louder than it is now. I like lows, but would also like a decent bandwidth. I would love to do from like 20-40hz but anything wider would be awesome too. Your input is most appreciated. Thank you!
