How to Remove & Replace a Toyota 4x4 Manual Locking Hub 

Thanks for the compliments. I've gotten a lot better over the years at making these videos. I eventually did make the video on how to properly reassemble the pawl and clutch assembly of the hub dial. If you haven't seen it, you might want to check it out. (I think it's probably the best video I've made to date...) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-W78RkF1mUOE.html I also lumped my toyota videos together into a playlist that can be accessed from my channel's home page.

You can always compile your own list of videos for a playlist in RU-vid (and i'm totally cool with you linking my videos into a playlist), but I do also have them grouped into a playlist already (along with some other truck and 4x4 related content I've made: ru-vid.com/group/PLTxEXQ674ZOJlyEriqcd3xb6MZKdosVxY

Be sure to watch this video on the hub dial reassembly I did also. It will also prove helpful if you're working on an AISIN hub: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-W78RkF1mUOE.html

Good deal! I'm glad you got them out. On really stuck ones I also like to soak them in penetrating spray like PB Blaster, and you can heat up the studs with a propane torch if they are REALLY stuck. But generally the brass drift gets the job done nicely.

Thanks Pete. I'll keep that in mind. I have a small propane torch if needed. My hubs are not original Toyota, my cruiser didn't have them factory fitted.. it's an all wheel drive model converted to part time 4wd. George, Australia.

It probably just needs cleaned and greased, but you should watch this video before reassembly: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-W78RkF1mUOE.html

Very concise and layman explaining, however there is need for high resolution video quality

Doing an HD remake of this video is on my list of stuff to do. It's hard to believe it was 11 years ago that I made this. Time flies. Thanks for watching!

Thanks Adam, if you haven't seen it yet, check out my very detailed video on how the locking hub dial/clutch assembly goes back together. That assembly is one of the things that people often don't get correct and then think their hub is broken (will lock but not unlock). If you liked the above video, you'll love this one. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-W78RkF1mUOE.html

I've seen that too over the years, mainly on hubs I took apart after auto locking hubs were introduced. It's not necessary under the manual locking hub dial. The threaded end of the birfield stub shaft allows you to have a bolt in there to help with pulling that joint and axle shaft out of the knuckle and differential.

+Rudi von Staden I don't have a video for front wheel bearings currently (but it is on my list of things to do!) The biggest tip for the front wheel bearings is to get the socket for install and removal of the two spindle nuts. They are 54mm so it's a big socket. Best bet is to get one of these from trail-gear. : www.trail-gear.com/TG/54mm_Axle_Socket/i_0_0_3482/_140157-1-KIT.aspx#.VkC1zGeFOUk

WheeliePete Thanks for the tip! I hear from other Hilux owners in South Africa that the standard water heater element spanner fits perfectly, and they are available from most hardware stores (not sure if it's an international standard). Only problem is they need to be modified if you need to torque them.

+Rudi von Staden Hmmm... maybe they have a different element standard than the U.S. because the socket I use for water heater elements is 1.5" which is only 38.1mm The spindle nuts on the early solid axles take a 54mm socket.

+Rudi von Staden yorniel

I *think* if you put the transfercase in 4wd and the tranny in gear it should bind up the front differential enough to be able to unscrew that bolt (as long as the front driveline is still attached to the differential.) All my trucks have manual lockers in the front axles so putting the t-case in 4wd locks up both axle shafts. I can't remember if that will work with an open differential or not though. Maybe someone else will chime in who's had to deal with that...?

Anyone else have input on this

If it's an extreme turn to either side I would take a hard look at the steering components. I bet there's some tie-rod end joints that are toast especially on a '94, if they are original, they've been in there a LONG time. Could also be the CV joints. Doe the truck have manual locking hubs? Lots of problems can stem from someone installing the manual locking hub dial assembly wrong. Easy to check and fix (as long as all the parts are there) Here's a link to that video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-W78RkF1mUOE.html

Hmmmmm... you'll have to dig into it. You might try watching this other video I made. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-W78RkF1mUOE.html It will at least help you pull the outer hub dial cover and verify that those components are assembled correctly. A lot of problems with the Aisin hubs used on Toyota's come from people not assembling the hub dial components correctly.

A couple things come to mind #1 someone (probably a tire shop) in the past may have overtorqued those studs and stretched past their limit which makes them weak and ripe for breaking off on the next big impact. (Could have also not been properly torqued and just came loose which would allow the wheel to work back and forth on the studs and shear them off...)#2 Which wheel was it? If it's one the driver's side wheels, there's a physics principle called "Mechanical Precession" that basically states when you have a nut that is regular "righty tighty" threads (clockwise to tighten) and you constantly spin the whole assembly counter-clockwise (like the wheels on the driver's side are doing), the nut will loosen over time. (wikipedia article on mechanical precession: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Precession_(mechanical) If the nuts were all coming loose on that side from mechanical precession, then once they get loose enough to allow the wheel to move a little bit all the time, it will wear on the studs and can shear them off. (I've seen this happen A LOT with 4x4's that don't don't check their lug nuts after aggressive wheeling trips.) Sooooo....if it was because someone overtorqued those studs, you will want to check all 4 wheels because the same gorilla probably did all 4 like that. If it was just the driver's side coming loose, then I would get in the habit of checking torque every so often (which isn't a bad idea just in general.) There's another thing too and that might be someone put the wrong type of lug nuts on for the rim. Different types of rims require different styles of lug nuts (where the lug nut interfaces with the rim.) A tire shop could tell you pretty quick if the lug nuts are correct for the rims. The wrong lug nut to rim style might also be prone to coming loose. So long answer, but, no, it's not normal for a properly mounted and torqued wheel to lose 5/6 lugs and shear off 4 studs. I'm really glad you didn't jettison the wheel at speed. I think you got really lucky!

If it's got AISIN manual locking hubs, yes. Make sure and watch my other video too on the not-so-intuitive process to re-assemble the hub dial components. You'll thank me later: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-W78RkF1mUOE.html

I'm up in Oregon. I appreciate the vote of confidence, but I barely have enough time to work on my own rigs. I did just get myself into a MUCH larger shop than what I was working out of so I should have a LOT more Toyota videos coming soon.

Yep. I've seen lots of places selling them online. Here's MarlinCrawler's listing: www.marlincrawler.com/axle/front-axle-parts/front-hardware/hardware-front-hilux/free-wheel-hub-assembly

Thanks Pete.

Uggh... I've also got an '81 front end and they had pressed on rotors (I think it was that way for 79-83 on U.S. 4x4 trucks?) The lug studs are pressed through the rotor and hub holding the rotor to the hub. You have to press the lugs out to remove the rotor from the hub. Then you have to press them back together. If you can, find someone with a H-frame press. It will make your life a lot easier. In later versions the rotors were bolted on to the hub which was a lot easier to deal with.

+InjunOne I don't have a list or anything, but I carry a set of metric sockets in 3/8 and 1/2 drive, vice grips, screwdriver, high-lift jack, and winch recovery gear. Spare upper and lower radiator hoses, extra belts, hose clamps, fluids, etc. I know it's kind of cliche', but I really haven't had much issue with Toyota's on the trail. If you keep up on the maintenance they really don't have much issue on the trail.

+WheeliePete Thanks. I usually pack extra parts and fluids as well. Seems most of the truck is 10mm and 12mm. I try to replace belts before they get too bad and keep those for back up, then rotate that stock each time I change belts. Maintenance was one thing my Dad made sure we kept up on. PM keeps a lot of problems away. Enjoy your channel. Thanks for the videos, look forward to many more!

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Well, right up until it doesn't... Which is why they make aftermarket chromoly ones like this: www.lowrangeoffroad.com/trail-gear-4340-chromoly-hub-gears-inner-and-outer-301506-1-kit-303107-1-kit-303108-1-kit-301507-1-kit.html