How to Remove a Ford F150 5.0 Throttle Body and Super Clean it! 

Thanks man!🤙 I sure will! Thanks for watching!

@Christopher Cook Unfortunately those two tanks have made for some very expensive fill ups at the gas station this year. $135 here in Wisconsin. Let's go Brandon!

Right! This is actually a pretty satisfying part to clean because it’s typically so gunked up.

Thanks Steve! Very nice that’s a good set up for a F150. I appreciate it!🤙

Good advice man! That coating can’t be scraped off.

@@TheMinuteMasters just got done putting on another TB from the junk yard. Back to normal. 👍 idling at 600rpm.

Same same same - had to go to the salvage yard and get lucky with another throttle body. Just read the tag on the throttle body - no adjustment and no cleaning.

@Minute Masters I used a toothbrush and I used a plastic body panel pry bar to disturb the gunk buildup and then the toothbrush to help agitate it more so I could use throttle body cleaner to flush it out. Is that a bad thing? It started right up when I reinstalled it with a new gasket. Didn’t sound too bad. Guess time will tell.

@@WalterMelons if its idling normally sounds like you're all good. I was really scrubbing with scotch brite when I cleaned mine. Right after installing it my idle was high like 1000rpm. My truck would drive around without pressing the gas. But if yours is acting normal you should be ok. 👍 after I got another one at the junk yard my truck ran normal.

I’m glad you liked it man!🤙 These are great trucks!

Yo, a regular old toothbrush is the best cleaning instrument out there! Lol I keep on just to clean my bathrooms and kitchens.

Good tip!👌

When you disconnect anything related to the coolant system it is always a good idea to get any air bubbles out of the system. This is usually done by leaving the radiator cap off and starting your truck. Let it run for a few minutes to cycle the coolant around. That typically does it. You should also fill the coolant if it looks low after that.

No problem man!🤙

do you have any tips on getting a rounded bolt off ?

@@ezekiel7497 I have a couple of solutions. 1 - heat the bolt of with a torch and use vise grips to turn it. 2 - use a grinder or metal file to cut two parallel flat sides to fit a smaller wrench (still recommend heating it up) 3 - Cut a single center slot and use a very large screwdriver to turn bolt. 4 - drill the bolt out and tap new threads. 5 - weld a new nut on the bolt head.

@@TheMinuteMasters I ended up using the flat head with a angle grinder on the bolt and it worked, this made my truck idle a lot more smoothly but it still dies at idle

@@TheMinuteMasters I believe it’s the fuel pump because I can hear it when it first stops, then it gets more and more quiet till it just stops pumping fuel

Good point! Eventually I’ll have the plenum off to do a deep clean and fresh paint.

Very nice! My dad and kid brother had 82 and 81 F100s. Love those bullnose Fords! Sure thing!🤙

You’re welcome man!🤙 I’m glad I could help you out. Thanks for watching!

Damn! Over 400k miles? That’s crazy! These older engines just last a long time. Gotcha. That makes me happy I made this video. If I waited until 400k miles, I’d probably be in the same situation. That’s a good idea! I’ve heard the new BBK throttle bodies are hit or miss.

@@TheMinuteMasters yes sir it was a family effort to get to that amount.. yeah these engines are tough. The tranny not so much it's on its second life. I also changed out my metal coolant line where the temp sensor and lower throttle coolant line connect right next to the distributor, another good video idea.

@@moisesurbina20 Cool! So your truck has been in the family a while. I agree. The transmissions are the week point but there’s no way around that. I think transmissions by there nature are more wear prone.

Very good advice!🤙

Not yet. My understanding is it should be pretty straightforward.

Those guys on forums are RUTHLESS. From time to time I post links of my videos in those forums. They absolutely hate me for it. That aside, there is a coating on the actual throttle plates. I don’t think there’s anything magical about the coating other than that it prevents corrosion. I used not metallic tools to scrap and clean them for that reason. Removing the TB is the best way to ensure you don’t contaminate anything sensitive related to the TB. That’s probably where most people go wrong when they clean TBs. There’s the TPS which could cause shifting issues. I’m the same way. I fix things on a hunch but also my truck is 25 years old and 242k. It’s just fine to throw new parts on it.

@@TheMinuteMasters They hate you - that's funny! I use to be on the BMW 2002 forum and they were the same way.

@@mikehickman3330 Dude! It’s nutz! One guy always comments on my posts and asks that I get removed or pay for a membership.

@@TheMinuteMasters nutz! Well your channel is awesome, and there are a couple of other people that are knowledgeable and cool on RU-vid - it helps a lot. I'm doing drop hangers next week. That should be fun.

@@mikehickman3330 Thanks Mike! 🤙 I appreciate it! Hangers aren’t too bad to work on. You’ll be just fine.

I have thought about a swap because the idea has a lot of promise. However, the time and money needed to convert to carb could easily be spent to fix the existing EFI system. As a matter of fact, you could probably upgrade the existing EFI. I think carb swaps are a popular idea because the 5.0 is a 302 with EFI. So it’s a relatively straightforward process especially for folks who understand carbs better than EFI.

@@TheMinuteMastersI'm currently upgrading the EFI on my truck (1992 F150, 5.0) with a Holley Terminator X kit. We'll see how it goes

You’re welcome man!🤙 that could have deleted those lines. I haven’t seen many retrofitted AC systems.

Ahh okay that would make sense I think, I appreciate it dude 👊🏼👊🏼

If your throttlebody is super dirty it could definitely help but I would probably look at replacing the idle air control valve. Plus I would look at reading your codes just to make sure there isn’t a bad sensor somewhere.

I replaced my TPS and IAC, stupid engine still stalls when I put it in gear, automatic transmission, these things are money pits.

The sensor at the intake would be a MAF.

Hey Stevie! When you replaced the TPS, did you install it in the same orientation as the OG one? If it’s not “clocked” or oriented exactly like the one you replaced, then your idle could be off a bit. There’s a way to set it perfectly with an ohm meter. It’s been a while since I looked into it.

​@@TheMinuteMasters 07:57 I installed mine with the wire pigtail closer to coolant line.... FML 😂 I guess I get round 2 at cleaning it a bit more one of these days

I don’t think I’ve replaced my TPS. However, I’ve always put them back the same way I found them to avoid calibration issues.

@@TheMinuteMasters something about having close to 96 ohms reading over black and green wire at idle position on the sensor. could be different value if I remember wrong but theres a way to twist the starting measurement on the sensor, and of course verify with a meter.

Thanks Michael!🤙 that could be a possibility. You would have to check while the engine is running. I kind of doubt it because I think coolant going right into your intake would smoke/steam. You could be losing coolant through an exterior leak or through an internal gasket.

No problem man! 🤙Honestly, these fixes you plan on doing are a good start. I would get them done and then see how your engine runs. For me, high idle typically is an air thing. Exhaust, intake, vacuum etc. So definitely check all those components carefully. Also, have you checked the codes on your truck?

@@TheMinuteMasters yes, non-running only has code 121. Running- 411, 412, 311, and 332.

@@Morse12321 I don’t know the codes off hand but if you Google search them with the year of your truck, there’s usual a forum or two dedicated to them. Sounds like EGR, O2, or some other sensor/valve.

My 95 5.0 does the same thing; jerks into drive/reverse. After some diagnosing I've discovered some minor vacuum leaks and a bad IAC. Before buying a new IAC try unplugging yours and then see how the truck runs. If it runs the same or better then the IAC is probably bad but if it runs worse then your problem may be elsewhere. Also you can try cleaning it. It's very easy to do and could be all it needs. Also make sure your throttle cable isn't sticking. When I first got my 95 f150 5.0 the throttle would get stuck at around 10% throttle. In other words when I let off the gas the pedal didn't return all the way out. I solved this with some lubrication and adding an extra return spring. Also there's on idle screw on the bracket that the throttle cable mounts to. Make sure that isn't all the way in for some reason. I have a new IAC that I'm going to install and if that doesn't solve it then my next best guess (other than vacuum leaks) would be the TPS. Also what trans do you have? I'm just curious if you have a 4r70w trans as well.

​@@Acaidia Mine is an e40d. 6 months later and I have done a lot with my truck (95 4x4 f150 5.8 e40d) After replacing map, iac, vac lines, a few things im probably forgetting, and the u-joints i was finally able to fix it. Hard to say if replacing the u-joints was the sole fix, but they definitely helped the most. Iac and map helped a noticeable amount to make it tolerable, rather than feeling like the truck was gonna split in half, but after replacing u-joints (ball joints, tie rods/sleeves etc at same time) i have not had anymore issues. I had a lot of slop around my front diff at the joints and when going from park to drive or reverse i could see where it would have to compensate for the slop and made it jerk. If you try the iac and that doesnt fix it id start looking around there. Its a long job so prepare for that (at least for me it was). The only real issue im trying to figure out right now is why my dash lights are flickering in one spot. Its in an almost square shape around the mileage, 0-10mph, and fuel gauge sections. Its not a constant flicker, but more so like a light is going in and out. Only thing I know needs work is my dash light switch as it has to find a happy medium in order for dash lights and headlights to be on, otherwise it will shut one or the other off ( i definitely need a new switch) but i tried messing around with the switch and it didnt seem to make a difference with the dash lights issue. The part is on order for that anyway so ill try that and see how it goes. Anyways, ill quit rambling now, good luck with your issue and hope you are able to figure it out!

I would replace the throttle body with a stock one. I hear the BBK 61mm are hit or miss on quality and it takes a lot of supporting mods to get any gains from it.

@@TheMinuteMasters I hear the same thing, and without increasing HP, the extra air will cause some loss of torque and could cause it to run lean.

@@mikehickman3330 Yup, that’s why TBS and CAI don’t usually work.

They are very cleanable. No reason to toss an OG throttle body, especially when I hear the reproduction ones aren’t great.

Hi Jack! So by shaking, do you mean the engine idles roughly? But gets better as it warms up?

I would definitely check for vacuum leaks. Replacing all the vacuum lines typically corrects that.

@@TheMinuteMasters Gotcha!

Yes, I didn’t want to fully disassemble the TB. I just didn’t have time and I didn’t want to break anything. You can get both sides of the throttle plates clean with the TB off the engine.

@@TheMinuteMasters Thx for replying :). Question on the 5.0L (302). Do you know the length of hose that would be needed to go from the oil filler side hose connector to the air box input port on the side? 16"?

@@mackendw Just so I understand where you want to route this hose. So from the port on the side of the oil filler neck to the air box or the air intake pipe?

@@TheMinuteMasters On my truck (87 F150 XLT Lariat), the oil filler spout has an open port that had nothing connected to it. The "stock" setup is supposed to have a line going from this port to the air box. I checked the air box and sure enough on the right side under the main air filter in side is a smaller filter that has a port to connect a hose onto. Just wanna make sure of the length.

@@mackendw I see. So on newer trucks the port on the oil filler neck connects midway on the intake tube. So I don’t know the exact length you need. If I was to guess, 3 feet will probably do it.

Like the cover/rubber pad?

Nice! If you think you can replace those corroded coolant lines then I would try. Otherwise you will need to replace the whole unit. I’ve never tried replacing those coolant lines.

That’s a good question Johnny. I don’t think there is an “on the shelf” replacement part. However, you could bore it out with a drill and solder/braze a new piece in its place. I think a piece of brake line with the proper flaring would do the trick.

Great find man!🤙 at 70,000 miles I can’t imagine there’s much to replace. Overall I would just inspect the whole truck end to end. At that many miles and age, I would say anything rubber may have the potential of being dry rotted. Tires, vacuum lines, spark plug wires, etc. Assuming no maintenance was done to the truck, it’s a good idea to replace the air filter and the fuel filter. Do a full fluids change. Oil change, transmission fluid change, anti-freeze flush, brake fluid flush, power steering flush, and differential fluid change. Of those fluid changes I would say oil and transmission is the most important. Transmission being the most forgotten. The rest of those fluid changes are easily forgotten as well, but can usually go a lot longer. I would check your brake pads, rotors, and rear drum brakes. I would check for early signs of rust too. You could stop rust in its tracks now. Check inside of rear bed wheel arches, check inside of front fender arches, check cab corners inside and out, check rocker and sill pieces, check under carpet/vinyl for surface rust, and check down inside the radiator support.

@@TheMinuteMasters ok thanks man

@@GTxJakobix No problem!🤙

I would see if you can find a similar size of fuel line or coolant tubing from a local auto parts store. O’Reilly’s sells tubing by the foot.

@@TheMinuteMasters I’m here right now I’ll check it out 😂 thanks

If you feel like your truck is way underpowered, I would start refreshing ignition and fuel components. Cleaning the throttle body doesn’t add torque but it doesn’t make things feel smoother.

That’s the original Bencie that I had reupholstered. It’s chestnut brown leather looking vinyl and black for the edges. $312🤙

Hi Josh, I’ve actually never messed with the idle. I’ve never had a reason too. Is there something wrong with how your truck is idling?

Interesting. I would trying installing a new IAC and see if the problem persists. Or if you are good with an ohm meter, you can test the existing one.

@@TheMinuteMasters yep I tested it the ohms were in range on the IAC and connector plug. I'm check for vacuum leaks or go to salvage yard for another TB.... only thing I can think of...

@@alexlewisiii6654 Gotcha. That's what I would do.

@@TheMinuteMasters Yep I did this morning and it did help thanks a lot..❤ your videos especially the one with cut out access to the fuel pump definitely gonna do that....👍🏾

The throttle felt smoother. I still have the original ecu or pcm.

Ok thanx. Your vids are helping me get through this lol. I'm at 315k. And it's just starting to act up. But. I feel that the motor and Trans are still strong. Sometimes the accel puts me on the seat. Other times. It barely goes. Even when I Floor it. Hardly any reaction.

@@charlespeyton1849 you’re welcome! I’m glad to hear it. Have you done an ignition tune up yet?

@@TheMinuteMasters not yet. That's my next step. Clean the throttle and sensor, along with new plugs, wires, injectors, dist. cap. Full filter and fluid change.

I don’t. I didn’t have time to develop a better latching mechanism and it rubbed a large hole in the bumper. The larger hole caused it to rattle a lot too. I may revisit the design in the future. It needed some tweaking. Oh, it also needed a pin to hold it in the open position.

I would have to look, but I believe that goes down to the charcoal box.

Good question! I can’t quite remember but I don’t think it was anything special that’s not in a typical mm or SAE socket set.

3/8 socket

I didn’t. That’s just the MSD cap. I’d love to upgrade to the full MSD dizzy, coil, and ignition box though. I hear it is amazing!🤙

@@TheMinuteMasters I asked because I have it ordered for my 93 high output 5.0l f-150 and was hoping you could tell me if it was a good set up,I have shorty headers, cold air intake it’s bored .0040 over with forged rods and a steel crank and high flow exhaust with cherry bombs on it & 35” tires I love my old Ford been working on it for two years paid 300$ for the truck and so far i have spent 12,000.00 $ on upgrades/repairs.😜

@@JoeRocket-sf6qs Awesome! From what I’ve read you will definitely like the MSD set up. My told it causes the spark plugs to fire more often and completely burning all the fuel. Hey I bought my truck for $1800 and I have about that much in it too! Lol But hey, it beats buying a new truck for 45k+.

@@TheMinuteMasters I only took mine on cause of corona (project to kill time)and I like the body style,I would love to dyno my truck but no facilities exist in my area sadly.

@@JoeRocket-sf6qs That’s a good idea! I moved into an apartment right before corona and I was no longer near a garage. So I could put as much time into my truck. Oh well. Lol Yeah, I’d love to know what power your truck would make. I’ve dynoed my truck four times and it’s cool to see the read outs.

It’s normal for that much crap to build up over time but it’s not how it should be. I would clean the TB super well and if you feel like it. You could pull the intake plenum and clean it too.

@@TheMinuteMasters I think thats what im going to do. I just watched your video on how to take the plenum off and you mentioned the injectors were right there. I think ill wait for NAPA to open up and go ahead and replace the injectors while Theyre easy to get to. Thanks for the help. And your videos are amazing. You are very thorough on your instructions.

@@emmanuelm2291 Sounds good man! Your truck will be running so well once you get everything cleaned and back together.🤙 Thanks Emmanuel! I appreciate it! Thank you for taking the time to watch my videos!

My 95 5.0 is like that. If I pull it I am also going to put in new injectors. They are cheap and lose pressure with time.

@@mikehickman3330 That’s a good idea! I want to replace my injectors too just to freshen things up.

I’m assuming you are referring to the throttle plates. They should open perpendicular to their original position or turn a full 90°.

So that’s just the MSD cap and rotor. I’d love to install the full MSD dizzy and box. But to answer your question, I’m pretty sure MSD makes a cap and rotor replacement for the OE Dizzy.

That would be cool!👌

Which part broke?

Yup, I was getting oil up through the CCV line into the intake tube and through the throttle body. The oil was coating everything. I figure this was causing idle issues and weird starting issues. Between the clean and replacing the IAC, my truck definitely feels smoother on the throttle. The pedal feels smooth under foot and some weird and occasional stubble starts decreased.

@@TheMinuteMasters I replaced my IAC Valve. While I had the Ac on it would idle up n down and that fixed it

@@SC-dt4ij Nice! Purrs like a kitten now right?

@@TheMinuteMasters most definitely after I drive around 30 mins in the highway I barely have to step on the peddle she just goes

@@SC-dt4ij Nice! That’s how my truck is feeling now!🤙

At the throttle body?

Well, if my truck wasn’t my DD, I’d have more time to make everything look pretty. Maybe next time!😁 That’s a good idea!

I think the EVAP canister is situated near the throttle body. Otherwise, to fix the idle issue, I would make sure all you vacuum lines are in good condition. Vac leaks cause all kinds of issues and they don’t necessary trigger codes.

@@TheMinuteMasters k,thanks

You bet Terry! I love it!🤙

@@TheMinuteMasters Its kind of tired pistons rattle like crazy my plans are to swap a 5.8 liter 351 in it.

@@terrybaptist795 Really? I think my pistons are rattling too. Do you hear a kind of dull low rattle when you shut your truck off? Or when you idle for a little bit?

@@TheMinuteMasters My pistons only rattle when i get on the gas accelerate my friend.

@@terrybaptist795 Gotcha. Yours must be worse than mine. Is your oil level good?

I would love too! I definitely have it on the docket when I get to doing performance mods.🤙

Put shorty headers on and use mr gasket aluminum gaskets and use hex head bolts for install.....

@@johnpaul3800 I’d love to put shorty headers on my truck. I had the engine out before and I took the stick headers off. So, I know it wouldn’t be hard getting the bolts off. I have a header bolt kit from Summit that’s stainless steel.

@@TheMinuteMasters Talked to you when you did the engine pull on your truck! I spun a main and had to put a new 5.0 in mine found a 1992 5.0 out in Chicago with 70,000 original miles for 875.00 shipped to n.y. she's up and running good again...😀👍

@@johnpaul3800 Ah! I thought your username was familiar. That’s a damn good deal! Did you add anything extra to it or did you install the engine as stock?

That’s good! Have you done an ignition tune up? I’d read the codes too.

@TheMinuteMasters I changed the cap and rotor haven't got around to the plugs and wires yet, it still has a misfire but not as bad. No code reader yet. A lot of things need changed anyways so I've been holding off on the code reader.

Is there something I didn’t explain fully?