complete removal of penetrating damp from interior walls . This short video shows all the necessary step in the complete removal of penetrating damp. How to make and fit a windowsill • How to make and fit a ...
Glad you enjoyed it Tom . Consider subscribing, if you haven’t already and check out my channel . I appreciate the kind words and wish all the best with your damp problems. Cheers Sion
Thank you for the nice comment. I dreaded the idea of getting in a so called damp specialist as it would have cost a fortune and I suspect they would have recommended stripping all the walls and complete re tanking them . Please consider subscribing and help me grow this channel.
Trying to tank the inside of the wall seems crazy, as you're just locking the water in the wall. The wall is soaking wet, so it is structurally not ideal and should be allowed to dry out somehow. If this really is penetrating damp, then it would make more sense to prevent water penetrating in the first place somehow.
The walls were all ready tanked and had been for 25 yeas . The damp areas were a result of a failure to that old tanking allowing water through . All I did was to repair the tanking barrier . The walls are solid and there is no DPC . I cant think of another way to prevent damp .
@@sionhughes5543 It does seem odd. Walls will get wet, but should be able to dry out during dry weather. The heat from inside the building will assist this (and can be inhibited by wall insulation). If there are no cracked bricks and the wall is nicely pointed, then it is odd that you would still get issues. Although some would say to avoid it, something like stormdry would be a less invasive approach than tanking, as it prevents water ingress but still supposedly allows the walls to dry and to breathe. It also protects the brick from water, not just the inside of your house.
Hi great video and not a bad attempt. I would also suggest to apply stormdry masonry cream to the wall outside which will stop pentrating damp. Also when it rains heavily check your guttering isn't spilling over in theose spots. The tanking will help but I'm not sure is long term it will resolve the issue. Around the window check all the around on the outerside that the silicon seal is good also. 👍 nice job 👏
Hi William, I have had stormdry mentioned a number of times now and will paint the outside with it this summer . The roof overhang is non existent being such an old cottage and the water streams down the wall during heavy rain fall . The window is new and made and fitted by myself. The seal is good so I guess it just penetrated from the outside . I really appreciate the advice and will at some point be making alterations and another video charting what has worked and what hasn’t. Once again thanks. Cheers Sion
@Sion Hughes stormdry or any kind of masonry cream will fix the problem. Stormdry can bridge up to 0.6mm gaps which I think is pretty decent. It also allows your brickwork to breathe do you won't get trapped moisture.
Hi thanks for the informative video. Just had a quote 8.5k for a DPC solution on a small semi detached property. My son spoke to the contractor he is going to drill the outside tank the inside with a plastic membrane and re plaster. I'm a DIY fan I took all the plaster off the wall dry as a bone, not sure it even needs a DPC as it looks like it already has one. I'm sure you would smell damp if there was an issue. My plasterer has said look mate I have seen damp in my 40yr career and this house doesn't have damp. Who do u trust these days. Thanks again for giving your time and effort
Hi Gordy, I am genuinely glad to have been of service. The numbers quoted in the damp industry can be horrible and certainly in my mind unrelated to the amount of work needed . Sadly there are many good contractors out there and many bad ones . Knowledge is king . The more you know the better protected you are . I am certain that I would have been quoted at least a thousand, if not more . Check out my channel as there are another 60 videos you might find useful ,subscribe like and comment and I really appreciate the kind words . Cheers Sion
Penetrating damp is coming from the outside. I hope what you have done works, but I suspect that you will have to treat/seal the OUTSIDE wall. IF the problem comes back I would suggest treating the outside wall with "Stormseal" approx £100 but its like a super duper Thompsons Water seal.
Hi Philip that sounds like solid advice and its the second time that product has been mentioned . Please consider subscribing and visit my channel for more videos . Cheers Sion
@@sionhughes5543 I can concur, Stormdry is brilliant and gives about 20 odd years of waterproofing. Having said that, these walls are painted, and Stormdry is meant to go onto the brick itself
Hi Sion, you need to remove the paint from the outside brickwork, the house cant breath, if you intend to paint brick on a old property that probably has lime mortar to help the property breath you need to you a mineral based paint like kiem so it still allows moisture to escape.
Excellent video and you get max points just for perseverance! There's very little free advice out there on what can be done about damp. Well done for solving it on your own! Beautiful plastering too!
Sadly, it will still find a way around the tanking compound. A dimple damp proof membrane with a mesh would allow it to drain more freely. I would also look into stitching the crack if you have access to the brickwork.
Hi, So far the large area where I went back to brick is fine . The other side next to the window has definitely got some creeping back in . I am back to full time work now but once I have more time I intend a follow up video .
Honestly I don’t really know, all I do know is I have lived in this house since 1993 and it never showed damp patches in that room and the all the walls were tanked a few years before I moved in because their no DPC in the brickwork. I shall keep a keen eye on the situation. Thanks for taking the time to comment Conor and please consider subscribing.
I am so pleased to hear you say that . I will say that in my case I have found that I have other new places where it comes through but that’s just part of owning an old house . This certainly works for repairing tanking
I always think the best is to find the source of damp from outside, in other words is to find where the water is infiltrating from the outside rather stopping topper on the plaster inside. Once you found the way in and you fix it the inside walls will dry and problem is solved.
Hi , as you can see from the beginning of the video and all the shots of the outside of the house there are no obvious places I could pin point as where the water was getting in . Many people have recommended in the comments section a product called STORMDRY which inhibits water ingress but allow moister trapped within the brick to escape . I think I will paint that on the outside wall when the weather warms up .
Great effort with that video bud 👍 to me it looks like hygroscopic salts from the long term burning of fossil fuels, rather than penetrating damp. Analysis can be done following BRE Digest 245, and some salt analysis 👍 personally if it was me I would lower those ground levels, and remove the black band if modern plastic paint as it will trap moisture 👍
Really glad you enjoyed it and I agree with your observations on modern day paints. I have had salt crusts in another part of the house which look very different so I personally think that was penetrating damp . I want to change the drive outside the house and when I do I am going to deepen the trench at the same time . That should help . Please consider subscribing and help me grow this little channel and thank you for your professional advice
Hi Sion, its not penetrating damp you have mate, the stuff you hacked off was bone dry, it’s a condensation issue you have. Little tip for you, never put pva on new plaster it wont be able to breath, it needs a mist coat of paint diluted with 10% water before applying 2 top coats, damp sam man on youtube also has a few words about this video.
Hi, I have made a few errors in the treatment of this old house and am now wondering how to fix them . I have so many layers of Dulux weather shield on the outside wall , all of which is a killer on those old brick walls . Also the room was tanked 30 years ago and I was attempting to repair the tanking . I have a concrete floor which I covered in self levelling compound and that has water spots all over it . I wonder if I could sand blast the paint off the outside wall then coat it with STORMDRY and paint over the top of it . The cottage is 1837 and all white . The outside wall has no overhang which causes the rain to streak down the wall . I am considering creating an over hang to keep the wall dry but after hearing all that I have said what’s your advice? Cheers Sion
First bit of advice would be to watch Damp Sam's video on the true culprit here - condensation. One point I would add to your mention of Stormdry - if you do go that route, Stormdry is not supposed to be painted over. They have a very helpful technical advice team, if you have further questions.@@sionhughes5543
Very interesting. Would you now recommend jumping straight to step 2 with the more thorough cut-back? Curious if step 1 usually solves it and it was just the persistent leak that caused you to go to step 2. I might have to do the same and want to nail it in 1.
As you saw they first attempt at just crack filling worked in some places . I genuinely hoped it would solve the problem. If you want to make sure you sort it on the first attempt then all the way back to the brickwork and make certain you haven’t left anywhere for the moisture to creep in . A single tiny hole can make a huge stain as you saw . Let me know how you get on .
Your question is by no means a silly . The outside brick is a solid wall with no cavity and old pours brick with lime mortar . As such it is always going to absorb moisture especially as water runs down the walls when it rains because I have almost no overhang . I have painted the walls with Dulux exterior masonry paint and sadly that blocks water get in but it also stops water leaving the wall and evaporation to the outside. My repair was simply to fix the crack in the tanking to stop the damp leaking through the crack . Hope that helps. Cheers Sion
This won’t solve it. Your house would have originally had lime pointing and render. This allowed the walls to breathe. Cement, thistle etc will serve only to make walls more damp. You could have used hotlime render and a breathable paint. Outside, you could have pointed and rendered with lime and then used Stormdry. This allowed water to escape but stops it entering the wall. Bottom line: don’t use modern methods on a period property.
I accept a lot of what you say. However, this video is about me attempting to repair the tanking that had been applied 30 years prior. As for the use of storm dry that would only work on brick that had never been painted.
Hi,Thank you for making such informative video.Since this video is a year old, I would like to know if this treatment remained a success or the dampness came back? Thanks once again ❤
Hi, The answer is yes to the big area to the right hand side which was my main worry . I Have a tiny damp stain around the window which I will re treat by cutting back and covering in tanking slurry then re plaster once I get the time so I hope that helps . As far as I am concerned it works . What I have learned is that you always need to cut back a little more of the damp area than you would initially think . Hope that answers your question. Cheers Sion
Best thing for this is to point you bricks with lime and lime plaster the interior this will allow the building to breath. All you done is divert the water else where.
All I was attempting to accomplish was to repair the areas of internal tanking that had failed. With that goal in mind I feel I could have done little else differently
I think that wouldn’t help in my situation as in my situation the moisture is coming up from the ground . Even painting my brick work with weather shield apparently stops the walls from breather and causes moisture issues .
@@sionhughes5543 yeah I don't rate weather shield. Stormdry is alot more expensive but it is breathable . As for rising damp either damp proofing with injection or you can buy these things where you drill the holes along where the damp coarse should be and stick in these plastic looking rods which then expand into the brickwork for a DIY option. At the end of the day old houses have problems aka' character ' and mine has plenty of character , ha ha . All the best bud 👍
Cheers . I have damp spots on the concrete floor in that room and all I can do is put down carpet . If I put plastic down it will just just stop breathing and spreed out to rise up the wall . Old houses , they are a challenge.
Hi Sion have you thought about larch cladding the front or storm dry. I’ve tried with storm dry to see how that performs against the driving coastal rain this autumn / winter. If that doesn’t work then I’m larch cladding it.
HI, I am definitely going to try the storm dry as I have been recommended that product in the comments section a lot . I don’t think I have problems that you face with driving costal rain . Cheers Sion
I am going to paint STORMDRY on during the warmer months. Its been recommended a lot in the comments section . That is breathable but yes I wish I had put that on years ago instead of Dulux masonry paint . We all live and learn .
help simon please!. I live on the bottom floor with a property facing my door and to the left kf my front door is a double door electrical smart meter stored cupboard which has all x10 flats meters inside . my home has had progressively had everything metal inside (fixtures n fittings.. some other items such as tin opener or suchlike become rusted the building of ten flats sits directly next to a running steam....only two Meters distance from wjete my bedroom wall (bed headboard actually) is. lovely to listen to it but im not to sure as to whether if i go ahead a try to fix the terribly damp flat it will just keep being damp. ive had a shock to be greeted at the electrical cupboard with water running down sockets. the housing association wasn't too bothered. seemwd to have sourced the leak i believe it to be rat damage from the families of Vermin living and breeding at the stream...in our walls and the electrical issue spanning from th knorring through cables. would you suggest that I leave.!?
oh i forgot to state main issue...stains and flaky plaster throughout...do i pre pva it .. or would you suggest with all that said i actually leave?? baring in mind it's a shared block of ten?
Hi Rebecca , First of all ,I am by no mean a damp expert. Your damp problems as describe are well beyond the scope of general DIY . I would imagine that your flat isn’t the only one suffering in the building . The amount of damp that you describe and the water running down the electrical box doesn’t sound safe or healthy . I wish you the best . Regards Sion
Hello. Any chance of a follow up 11 months on? Maybe some photos? I would draw from this that moisture is unable to escape to the exterior due to painted façade and moisture would appear now elsewhere. What goes up must come down
@@sionhughes5543 to be expected I guess, on a solid wall. I note from your wheelie bin video you’re in RBWM. I used to be a damp surveyor for Housing Solutions, which is based in Maidenhead. Small world!
The treated areas remain good but a few new areas have popped up . In all its ok for a house of its age and the huge amount of rain we have had . Hope that answers your very reasonable question. Cheers Sion
I don't understand why you didn't just hack it all back to bare brick and then apply the tanking. Plus the tanking is meant to be a slurry, you can apply it with a brush and second coat should be applied quite soon after the first coat.
I just wanted to repair the areas that were broken and leaking. I accept what you say would’ve been better, but would cost infinitely more and taken a hell of a lot longer.
@@sionhughes5543 Well not infinitely more, just a little more - the materials are really quite inexpensive. And time-wise, if it were done properly from day one then you wouldn't need to keep re-visiting it to do it a second and third time. Do it right and do it once.
Hi Eric . The answer is no. I was quoted £1200 for an expert’s opinion. It is a big subject with many variables. I know that I made a mistake years ago painting the outside wall with latex paint . The walls were tanked before I bought my house and all I have done is to repair a physical crack/ hole in the tanking
Just bought a 225 yr old house in wales the whole place had been painted on outside with masonry paint so had the whole place sandblasted back to the stone. Even though there are many areas pointed with cement after opening all the windows say an inch & putting the heating on the difference after 4 wks is amazing. Plenty of lime mortar & pointing required but these buildings need to breath & need to be cared for
Hi Jonathan, I repointed the outside a while back but should have done it with lime mortar . Glad you enjoyed the video and please consider subscribing.Thanks for taking the time to comment
Wrong thats not gonna work for long you will find it will come back youre walls cant breathe you have painted bricks on the outside as well youre walls cant breathe or dry out
It’s all I could do as the walls have been painted for many many years . I moved in in 1993 and painted over the white wash on the outside with masonry paint . The interior walls had been tanked a couple of years before and its only in the last year that it has had damp spots appearing as a result of the cracks in the interior tanking . I know I should have stuck to white washing the outside but I am confident this repair will will work until other cracks appear which will hopefully be a few years away.
Sion totally agree with your explanation of rising damp. However will tnking the wall stop it from breathing and cuse further damage to the bricks in time?? would you not of been better off using a plaster for the age of your house which is breathable? Good luck.
Damp rods are the way to go , I’ve used the above method and all you do is trap water in between the brick work and the tanking , all damp has to be worked backwards the outside of the house in, this tanking will work for a while maybe some Years but then the water will ingress elsewhere as the the water builds up and the brick work becomes completely saturated and the integrity of the brick will go to shit, at least before the tanking the moisture had someplace to escape and evaporate away now it has no place to go and it will always head towards the warmer temperatures which is inside your house , I would treat the outer brick work with a product as mentioned in the comments as well as dry rods which are great and then I would take the wall back to brick work on the inside and allow it to dry out for some months then I would use a damp meter to test how dry it is actually getting and when it’s dry I would hardwall it and plaster, and believe me rising damp will rise houses have boilers and radiators houses heat up inside considerably unfortunately bridges don’t, great diy video all the same and the plastering is defo on point 👍
@@Britishgundogtraining I have damp on my walls, coming up six to ten inches in a bay window area but had one guy say it was rising damp and another penetrating damp!! Tried stormdry on the outside and the permaguard rods/cream but neither seems to have done the job!!! What now?😮
Hi Anthony , Given that the front section of my cottage has no DPC and is a solid brick wall all I can do is what you saw me do . Currently there is a tiny damp patch around the window but the other side where the wall was badly stained is still as dry as the day I first repaired it. The results I achieved with the money I spent works for me . The old bricks suck up moisture and rain streams down that wall when it rains . Old cottages as I am sure you know need constant maintenance. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Cheers Sion
@sionhughes5543 Sorry to say it but that awful tanking slurry stuff will have to come off at some point or it will damage the wall by trapping in the damp
@@sionhughes5543 You can't win with tanking. We have tanked whole walls in our home,it has stopped the penetrating damp but now has caused us condensation problems because the walls can't breathe! Best solution is to treat it from the outside,there are a few products on the market now that have resolved alot of damp issues for many a home owner. Hope you solve your problems,because we have been trying for years at a great expense!
I have had STORMDRY recommended many times but after looking up the product it can only be applied to bear brick and as my wall have been painted 30 times since 1837 I cant use that product. My old cottage has zero overhang and so the water pours down the wall . I am giving serious consideration to creating an over hang as well as considering cladding the outside wall . Do you know of any products that can be painted over a painted wall on the outside to help prevent water penetration?
@@sionhughes5543 Hello Sion my son is a civil engineer I've had a word with him! And his recommendation would be to create a overhang even if youbtreat the walls. I believe there is a new product by wetherdry that can be applied over paint by using a bonding agent first. But like my son says you would be better off in the long run to create a overhang. I know hiw frustrating this can be, we have spent thousands over the years on builders and D.I.Y products. We are at the point where our house is basically not worth a penny!
@@sionhughes5543 Have a look at sprayed on cork CorkSol they claim it's water resistant and it comes in many colours. Their FAQ section is quite comprehensive and I'm sure if you contact them they'll be able to tell you if it's a good fit or not. Good luck!
Kind words . Glad you enjoyed it . Please consider subscribing and I hope I saved myself £200 , which is the same as earning it , I guess . Cheers Sion
Holy Moses what are you doing ? Lime lime lime is the answer it’s an old house so don’t use new products. Check out Peter ward or any lime specialists The walls inside & out need to breath
As I said in the video I am just repairing the tanking. I don’t disagree with what you’ve said. Sadly my whole house has been painted and the downstairs of the front has all been tanked. My main problem is the fact I have no overhang and that when it rains water literally pours down that wall, upstairs I have exposed brick and that’s just as damp
How about treating the outside first to stop penetrating damp, you did not state if external issues were evident and if issues were rectified. You’re tanking system/instructions are not the best, possibly rubbish, you do not tank on top of a crack or fill to the surface internal render/plaster crack, bollocks. External render/pointing repair required 1st including seals to door/window frames to elimanate water penetration/ingress, an external water seal would also be advised if possible. The internal plaster would be advised to be rmoved if issues persist and a tanking slurry salt retarding render/skim coat applied to the affected areas.
This is dangerous advocating mal practices which is ruining our period housing stock Remove plaster and render, render with lime based render and plaster internally with a lime plaster and then decorate with a mineral based paint. These properties have stood the test of time till non traditional methods of refurbishment have been adopted. A note to all please do not follow this or use cementicious renders on traditional solid wall construction.
I must admit I am unable to critique your harsh words . All I would say in my defence is that I was repairing the tanking that was applied 30 years ago before I owned the property. I take on board all you say , but as you know I have to live with day to day reality of the situation. I have had a product called STORM DRY recommend in the comments section , a breathable paint ideal for allowing moister to escape and not ingress . I think during the summer when everything has dried out I will paint that outside wall and see how that effect the situation. I appreciate your fondness for these beautiful old buildings and I certainly have no intentions of bring forward there demise . Best wishes Sion.
This guy is a fool he is tanking on old clay bricks which will always bring back damp the solution is use lime plaster or add a new DPC if it is rising damp you can also get a breathable waterproof cream for brick walls he says hes fixed the solution but he has ruined the bricks behind they will turn to dust if water is trapped between the wall. also Masonry paint?
Hi Muhammad , I take on board your point and would ask you to consider my objective which was to repair a failure in the interior tanking which has been there about 30 years now . There is no DPC layer to that part of the house . I can only put a breathable underlay and carpet down and keep the room ventilated and remove moister when ever I can . The tanking worked so well for so long all I am trying to do is repair it . For the money I spent I cant complain but I agree with a lot of what you say even if I would prefer not to be labelled a fool . I am sure you understand. Cheers for taking the time to comment. Sion
Not rising damp but penetrating damp caused by rain seeping through the wall. I would have done all that work on the exterior rather than mess up the interior. If cavity wall, then drill some holes on the outer wall for water and moisture to escape.
@@sionhughes5543 Maybe it worked for your cottage but most Victorian and Edwardian houses iv worked on who tank inside walls see brick work crumbling after a while due to moisture sitting in the brick not to mention the mortar turns to soil, if the problem is not fixed externally. i would have hacked the masonry paint off(Vapor closed) used some acid wash depending on whats left lime render prevents water ingress but is (Vapor open) stopping the water passing and allowing any humidity left through hence not destroying the brick (You could even do lime Harling it works just as well). Or the easier method use Storm-dry cream but make sure your pointing is in lime based or it is pointless. Apologies for the profanity. Hope this helps others interested.
@@sionhughes5543 I've read all the comments below. It hasn't worked, will continue to not work and quite the opposite, will get worse. I know this as a professional working with old (damp and ruined) buildings. You wasted £80 and days of labour. You've set yourself up for a fall reckoning to teach people something which you haven't a clue about. Happy Christmas.
