How to repair vacuum tube Chassis (1939 ZENITH Console Radio) Part 3 

JZ, I have learned so much form you. You explain things so clear and effective that the new person without electronic background can understand and not get overwhelmed. I watched other RU-vid channels and was so confused since their presentation is focused on individual with electronic background. Thank you so much for taking your valuable time making these videos.

Outstanding job Jay! Thanks for posting

I always continue to LEARN stuff from your videos, even after 45 years in electronics... Next to the Radio-Television switch on the back are 2 round pin terminals. That allows for the audio input from a TV set. When I install a new part, I follow your technique but add one step. I use a small polishing tip on my Dremel drill and hit each of the small wire left from the capacitor. That sort of polishes the wire so the solder makes a good contact. The Flux does help with this in most cases, but sometimes , depending on the brand of capacitors, the wire becomes a bit corroded and the solder might not adhere very well.. Hope we can see Part 3 VERY SOON!!! 🙂 Thanks Robert WA6PHN

It’s coming along nicely. Sorry I got behind on watching this. I’ll be watching part 3 now🤗

Hey Jay, nice work and commentary as your making repairs. Zenith did make some great radio.

Nice going Jay, good coverage on your techniques. One thing about those Zenith's, they give you plenty of room to work with. The rubber wiring is one of the quirky setbacks of some manufacturers of that era. Philco is notorious for using rubber insulated wire back then. Making good progress, keep it going!....Tony

Coming right along with it Jay, looks good. :)

Zenith was always a great radio brand quality was un matched by other radio manufacturers of the day. Nice copper coating underneath the chassis to. We didn't get rain yesterday we got snow about a foot of the white stuff no snow all last year. That definitely looks like a candidate for a restoration Jay. I have RCA receiving tube manuals and for Transmitting tubes and one for semiconductors always good to have. Thanks for the video.

Nice job so far with this. I've got an 8S443 (this chassis in a huge table model) I recently restored, though waiting for warmer weather to do the cabinet. One of the issues with these sets was the 6X5 rectifier shorting, and taking out the power transformer. There are several ways to address it, if you want to keep the tube, a 6X5WGT is a good option, otherwise diodes and a dropping resistor under the chassis works well too (and is what I did). Also, don't forget the line bypass micamold cap- I don't believe it was listed on the schematic, but it's been present in most 1940 Zenith consoles I've worked on. I replaced it with a .01mfd Y2 cap.

Just to clarify for folks new to the hobby, putting solder on the iron and then using the iron to apply it to the joint only works if the joint already has flux on it. Otherwise you are more likely to get a cold solder joint. Never try to "wipe" solder from an iron onto an un-fluxed joint, otherwise it will not bond. I will have to try the pigtail method. I have generally used the J-hook method but do not like it, as it ends up being very ugly. Soldering directly to the original terminals would naturally be my preferred solution, but is unfortunately not often practical.

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