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How to Replace a Lawnmower Drive Belt 

Homes for Beginners
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Welcome to my channel, Homes for Beginners where I show you how to do repairs around the house yourself. Please don't forget to hit that LIKE button and SUBSCRIBE for future videos.
In this video I will be showing you how to replace the self-propelled drive belt on your walk-behind lawnmower. This is a Cub Cadet 997ES model, there are other manufacturers which use the same body with a different color and others may even use a similar drive system too.
Drive belts will eventually wear out, stretch, or crack causing drive issues so you may notice the self-propelled system not working properly. Make sure the engine is cold and there isn’t an excessive amount of fuel in the tank, otherwise it can spill out.
Whenever working around the blade area, always remove the spark plug wire and move it off to the side. Flip the lawnmower on its side, carburetor side up.
Wearing gloves is certainly recommend for the next step, remove the blade. Use the appropriate sized socket with a 1/2” drive ratchet or johnson bar for extra leverage. You can use a block of wood to jam the blade if needed. To reduce the chance of your hand slipping and hitting the blade, I would recommend having the ratchet handle aligned with the blade, but slightly lower than the edge, pushing away from that section of the blade.
Remove the bolt with the retaining plate and blade.
You may need a scraper to remove any built-up grass.
Next is removing the 5 retaining bolts holding on the plastic cover. Cover designs may vary, there will be 3 in the center around the engine base. A socket, extension, and ratchet are best here.
2 more will be located behind the wheels, a wrench is best here.
Remove the plastic cover.
Due to the design of the cover, these tend to trap in debris so you’ll most likely need to clean up behind. A scraper can be used for this.
Open up the pulley on the engine, this is done by pulling your gear selector to the lowest setting. Now you’ll have the most movement in the cable. Ensure the belt is not around the shaft base, push in the lever plate for the pulley, and disconnect the cable. The cable fits into a slot as you can see, there is an enlarged hole to pop out the end.
Remove the belt from around the engagement pulley, you should be able to slip it past the retraining bracket.
Remove the belt from around the drive system pulley.
To get the belt from around the engine shaft, feed the belt through the lever plate center hole, once almost all the way through, push the lever plate in, then feed it around the top and remove it.
As you can see the belt is worn and cracked.
Compare the old and new belts to ensure they are the same. I purchase this belt from my local lawn equipment supplier. Simply provide them with the model number and they’ll provide you with the belt required for your mower. This does take a thinner style v belt than what is typically found on other yard equipment.
Install the new belt in reverse of removal. Loop it around the shaft, then feed it through the center hole on the lever plate. Push the remaining portion past the plate on the bottom side.
Place the belt around the engine pulley, make sure it’s fully opened.
Pull the belt over and feed it around the drive system pulley.
And finally push it along the engagement pulley.
Again make sure the belt isn’t at the center of the engine pulley so it can be fully closed. Push the lever plate towards the engine base, then reinstall the speed selector cable.
Clean away any dirt or grass build-up if needed, then install the plastic cover with the bolts.
Reinstall the blade and tighten the bolt. It’s always a good idea to clean the threads up on the bolt with a wire brush, then apply a medium-grade thread locker. Torque the bolt to the factory specifications, this will vary between models and engines.
With a new belt, it will be tighter and depending on the age of your mower, the cables may be stretched so adjustments will be required. There are two adjustments, one for the speed selector and the other for the drive engagement. At the base of the deck will be speed selector adjustment. Put the gear selector in the highest setting. Loosen the nut at the base of the deck, it has an elongated hole. Push the bracket back to the handlebars, then tighten the nut.
As for the drive engagement, this is located on the underside of the handlebars. There is an adjustment nut that is turned by the handle. If you find there’s a hesitation in the drive when the handle is pulled, the cable will need to be tightened. If the drive is working fine, but the handle has excessive tension when pulled back, then the cable may need to be loosened.
© Homes for Beginners 2019
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No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

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17 мар 2021

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Комментарии : 7   
@Drew1734
@Drew1734 3 года назад
🙌 I cannot tell you how hard I looked for a video like this. I have an SRC 621 and could not find a video that explained it specific to that model until now! I just did this exact repair last weekend and have now run into a problem with my self propel function. Before replacing the belt, the mower was propetually stuck in 5th or 6th gear, it would never let me go below those gears. Fast forward, I replace the belt by taking off the blade adapter and lowering the swing arm (contrary to your method) and successfully replaced the belt. Put the idler pull back together and decently tightened it. Went back to Turn it on and realized the speed control cable was not seated in the wheel on the outside. So I fix that by reseating it and installing it back into the swing arm and now I barely have any tension on the drive cable at all, and the gear selector is still stuck. Once more, I tried to take a part the control box for the gear selector and drive handle and broke some of the screw holes. mowed the yard after all this just fine, but the self propel would not engage so I am panicking hoping I can open everything up again this weekend to fix the issue. From what I can tell, there is nothing providing pull tension to actively get the belt to engage with the pulley. Any good ideas where I should start? From the video, seems like adjusting the speed selector and drive engagement right off the bat might fix the issue. We will see. Still don’t know why the gear selector would be stuck though. I’m hoping some easing of the tension on the speed selector fix it, but I’ll have to start the process of elimination after that if it isn’t fixed with adjustment of the speed/drive cables. Thanks for the thorough video!!
@homesforbeginners
@homesforbeginners 3 года назад
Glad I could help! Almost sounds as if the gear selector is broken. If yours is the same as mine, it's a plastic assembly so something may have broken inside. If you're not already, check the movement when you're inspecting the underside with the covered off and the lawnmower not running.
@Drew1734
@Drew1734 3 года назад
@@homesforbeginners yes I believe something was already broken with the gears. I was fine with it being stuck in 5th or 6th gear. As I could at least still have propulsion. But now I can’t even use either of them so I think I’ve done something to the drive cable. When I pull, the cable is barely moving the transmission and pulley, not nearly enough for it to catch and engage with the motor and cause movement of the wheels. Idk how I would have broken that in changing the belt but I think I did something to somehow cause the back pulley (where the belt loops closest to the rear of the deck) to not be able to pull and tense up enough to actually engage. Going to look at it today and hope for a fix. I’ll let you know.
@Drew1734
@Drew1734 3 года назад
@@homesforbeginners Just spent two hours trying to fix it with no avail. Still having a hard time understanding what’s wrong. Any chance I can email you some video from my repair attempt to get your opinion?
@homesforbeginners
@homesforbeginners 3 года назад
Being that it's the same open/close pulley, it doesn't have gears. It works on a variable pulley drive, similar to a snowmobile. As the engine pulley changes in size, it'll change the ratio which affects the speed on the wheel gearbox. Feel free to upload the video to RU-vid and just share the link in the comments here.
@mrpainterpants
@mrpainterpants Год назад
I have an SRC 621 Cub Cadet self propelled with a Kawasaki engine, When I got the mower it was stuck in 3rd gear. With some WD40 I was able to loosen that up. It feels like it is running at half speed there is no manual throttle control. Is there some adjustment I haven't found?
@homesforbeginners
@homesforbeginners Год назад
I believe there is an idle control. Mine is the same model as far as I know and I'm not a fan of the self propelled part. I have found the belt can slip if it gets exposed to dust, the speed adjustment isn't super reliable, and the locking drive mechanism on the wheels act up. I purchased new wheels and have also noticed the center portion of the wheels are spinning in the tires.
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