How to Replace Timing Belt 96-00 Nissan Pathfinder 

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What a labor intensive job,I am amazed that this guy didn't lose his cool all the way thru this job, I would have been cussing the whole way through, thanks 1A auto and great job sir.

This was a great video but the tech stated that this vehicle has no petcock/ coolant drain plug. You can actually see it in 6:05 in the bottom corner of the radiator. It's the one that has a Phillips head indention. I have a 2002 Xterra and my drain plug is made the exact same way. You have to remove it with a Phillips head screwdriver. Unscrew it and out pours the anti-freeze.

Sorry, what the heck are you doing with that allen? You should really remake this video, that's not the way to do it, I almost put mine back together like this. It's not an automatic tensioner, it has to be manually tensioned with the Allen. The Allen isn't to make sure it stays where it was when you tighten the bolt. The Allen is used to rotate the tensioner to actually put tension on the belt.

It’s a shame that my first real diy car fix is a timing belt haha, but dang this video made it super simple and I think I’m a car guy now. Thanks dude!

Thank you for doing this video! Very nice work. I believe the 3.3 jdm engine is very good with proper maintenance.

Great video. I was about to install timing belt covers till I saw you doing the front seal. Good idea. Back to the parts store. And thanks for the tip on the timing belt setup. I'll double-check the alinement after the new seal. By the way, a coworker has the same 2002 Xterra as mine and it turned out, when we were comparing notes, he was also using your video as a reference.

Thank you so much. This was so helpful

Thanks for this!!! Can you make one for doing the timing belt on first gen Xterra?

Great video. But my cam timing marks wouldn’t line up from the start. Any ideas on what to do about this?

You just saved me 1000$ Thanks.

Thank you for video

Amazing video, well done!!

Fantasy - Follow this video step by step and replace my timing belt in about 2 hours. Be super impressed with my self and boast to my wife how I saved us almost $2K!!! Reality - I break every plastic retaining clip. Break every electrical connector. Break or round off every rusted bolt. Realize my Pathfinder is not laid out exactly like the one in the video, get frustrated 10 mins into the job and have to tow my truck to my mechanic and pay him $2000 to do the job.

Great video thank you!

great video

Thank you so much 1a auto !

I have a question, my marks doesnt match with the ones on the belt what can i do to make them match?? I tried making some starts but it moves to far or to short . Any tip please !!! And thanks !!

Great explaining step buy step.

Great vid if you have not done this before, even if you have, I learnt a couple of nifty tech tips that are not in the manual, you should be changing the water pump as you do this, they are cheap and again not worth leaving it in,

Good video on setting tension. I bought the full timing belt kit for the Pathfinder with water pump and three seals. Any tip or magic pulling tool that dealership may use to get sprocket on crankshaft off without cutting,drilling and tapping sprocket?

Great video. It’s all snug in there! 😎👍🏼

manual states to check tension by using a feeler guage between the tensioner and the belt. is this step truly necessary? And i am confused about how that would measure anything. Please explain. Or make a video of it. And, for all under God,...how does one get to the 5th and 6th spark plugs in order to clean the wells before removal? ❤

Will this work for 2001 Nissan Xterra? It has the same engine in it.

Two tips if you do not own an impact gun! You can loosen the crank pulley bolt by holding the bolt with a 1 1/16th socket and breaker bar, resting on the suspension, then using the starter and the strength of the engine to loosen the bolt. Beforehand, think of which way the engine will rotate and take that in account to decide where to rest the breaker bar. See this video for more details: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GCE3P8AD2rI.html You can re tighten the bolt by making a holder for your pulley using a piece of 2 by 4 and two M6 1.0 bolts, see video here for more details: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Pnh0JBq-g3s.html Hope this helps anyone who, like me, does not own an impact gun!

Power tools work great by the way and take less time

I don't understand shouldn't the crank pulley be in the first mark when top dead center? Your pulley on the second mark in this video. But my pathfinder r50 service manual says second mark +5 btdc?

Best master ❤ perfect job ser

Awesome job ...

How do you do timing belt change when you sheared off teeth on the belt, by the crank???...

Hi I replace the timing belt of my 2002 path finder when im done installing the belt i rotate the engine. I noticed the belt slowly getting inside the engine til it touches the inner backplate of the cam shaft sprocket.. now im doing it 5x already put and remove but still same.. pls help

You never showed how to tighten the timing belt? The spring behind the tensioner isnt what keeps the belt tight, arent you supposed to turn the the tensioner with the allen key before tightening it down?

Love the intro. Just ordered a fuel pump assembly from 1AAuto. It was 1/4 of the price stores wanted AND it was OEM.

Hello! Is the TDC the same on a 2000 Nissan Frontier 3.3L? Thank you!

one small thing that the editor should have done is give the wrench/socket size of the crankshaft pulley in millimeters , rather than inches . since this is a metric vehicle and anyone that owns one probably bought a metric tool set for it . i believe 1 1/16" is 27 MM

nice video. thank you.

Also noticing on every Pathfinder timing belt video you can see wear around the brand new belt edge from the crankshaft sprocket belt guide including this one.48:23 in close up of damage to side of belt next to tensioner.Will this compromise the belt?

Nice video but you should always do two full revolutions on the crankshaft to make sure you got it right.

Will this work on a 2002 Frontier 3.3L ??

How did you put 22 lbs of force ? What did you used ?

The radiator was taken out before the fan in the video but not when he actually did it.

Is this basically the process for all with this engine? Mine is a 2000 XTERRA. By the way, great camera work.

Hoping that's a 3.3L, and still waiting on the compensation direction for the crankshaft.

at the coolant drain stage on these cars there is indeed a drain plug and is where the hose he took off is. you will have to remove a metal bar that is in the way but it uses 2 10mm bolts from what i can remember and a Philips or flat head screw driver to loosen and pull out the drain plug. on my 97 pathfinder it is there and you can see it here too. use that instead and dont make a mess

I have to replace mine pretty soon.

trying to do this and cant find the right bolts that fit into the crankshaft pulley for the puller.......becoming a huge pain in the ass

Is the Nissan Frontier as time consuming as the pathfinder ? Better worse?

47:56 anyone doing this with any of vg33 engine tensioner. What I found easier to slip and push the tensioner over the belt is using a medium sized screw driver or similar size. You want to get this part of the video. Now I followed his lead up to point of the video. to slip the belt over the tensioner. I took my screw driver from the top and rolled it down as pushed the tensioner in. Then came back to do what he did with spring.

Would it be wise to go ahead and replace the water pump as well?

Well, that was a lot of job. I like that step-by-step and everything manual. Now with all the air tools Beautiful job, brother. Love to see this kind of videos . I really enjoying seeing this video.

You did not replace seals. Why?

Is this the same 3.3l in a 2004 frontier? I need to do one myself

Great video. So when you set the tension, do you just guess about what 22lbs would be? Would a luggage scale work by pulling down on the belt with it to be a little more accurate with that or is it not as 'critical' as i think? First time doing a timing belt and just want to be precise

great

So now I have no crank no start situation…. All I did was take the crank pulley off with stuck socket and key turn method to get the bolt off and now after putting everything back on my car won’t crank please help

Trying to find out if I did something wrong with my 3.3 l. Had the timing marks set perfectly. rotated engine once and now the cam is not in line with the timing mark on the backing plate.

Nice. Liked that. I'm looking for help with this problem. Writeup below I've used on Nissan forums. I'm thinking my issue may be a failed hydraulic timing belt tensioner. Any ideas or experience you have is greatly appreciated! Hello all! This is my first Nissan Pathfinder. I have always wanted one since the late 1990s. It's a 1998 SE 3.3L, automatic transmission, 167,000 miles on it. I got it at an estate sale for $2,000. It has a loud knock or tap that happens part-time and so far it's not been resolved. I'd really appreciate it if anyone could point me to anything to check next, or describe if you had similar problems with yours. I've run the motor minimally...only to troubleshoot. Here's what it does and what I've done: 1. When it's first started, it knocks for less than 1 second and then gets entirely quiet. I hear maybe 2 knocks when it first starts. Then, when the motor is accelerated to 2000 RPMs it begins to knock and it keeps knocking until 3000ish RPMs. It increases in speed as the RPMs increase. If I let off the accelerator it stops knocking. When it's higher than 3,000 RPM it goes away. So it's in this midrange RPM the knock is present. It does this sitting still, or driving it. The rig was very sheltered it's whole life from what I can tell. It was driven lightly by an elderly lady. It's in immaculate condition, inside and out. Garaged. Paint and interior is perfect. Motor starts, idles and runs great other than the knock. Oil is full. I dropped the oil pan and checked the main and rod bearings. There was not any play. I changed them anyways. Noise persisted. There was some material in the pan's bottom, about 1/3 tablespoon (1 teaspoon) of what seemed to be fine wear material. Which I would think is normal for 167,000 miles. 2. It has a P1400 error code, for the EGR solenoid. I have not chased that yet. I don't find where this would cause a knock though. 3. The transmission fluid is 1 to 2 quarts low (based on my guess from stick reading), but the noise does not seem to be coming from the transmission, and the vehicle moves and drives fine. No slippage. What could be causing this part-time knock? Hydraulic lifters? Timing belt slap? Harmonic balancer? Cracked flexplate? The noise seems too loud to be the lifters, and doesn't do it at low RPMs like lifters usually do. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Weirdest thing. My cams wont sit in the timing position. They jumped as soon as I loosened the belt. Manually moved all sprockets to timing positions. Now no fire. Now I guess I'll pull the distributor and set to cylinder 1. I missed where you did that.

How much would a mechanic charge for this labor?

Very good video, but the chime freak me out!!!!

What would happen if u put the belt on backwards?

I want to see how to replace a water pum for a nizzan Pathfinder 2005

Watch in 2x speed .fyi .good video

Seriously, this video has probably bent some valves with its misinformation.

Starts off slow, especially the part about how to open the hood and set the prop rod. If someone doesn't know how to do that, they don't need to own automotive tools. LOL Also, when I did this, I didn't see any need in removing the air tube and electrical wires between the two valve covers or the A/C compressor. My main reason for coming here was to see the original marks on the Oil Pump showing where the crank sprocket pulley was to line up, but this guy skimmed over that part and had his own marks on there. My guess is his VG33 engine did not have the mark on the Oil Pump like mine did not.

next time please speak up little bit