So is a CFT worm used for kitchen scraps? If so how much and at what rate do you feed in kitchen scraps. Don't want to put too much in so that the worms cant keep up and food goes putrid.
+Raf's Kitchen Garden Hi there. Maybe you mean like junk mail.....if using newspaper you can grab it on the spine, and rip off inch to 2 inch thick strips. It rips a newspaper up pretty quickly. I didn't even have a shredder until after I built the 2 big CFTs - but now its needed, as sometimes I can use 50 gallons of cardboard in a week (not all the time, just depending on what im doing) thanks for watching
Hi mate quick question..... I added more worm to the bin so there is approx 4lb in there or just over and they seem to keep trying to escape. I open the lid on the morning and there is loads around the lid. I hope they can't get out else there won't be any left soon lol. It seems to be sweating a lot of its shut for a period of time. I normally leave the lid open which I'm guessing I have lost some because of this. Do you think there isn't enough air vents? I have one either side that's approx 6"x4" shall I add 2 more one from and back?
+Shaun Pearce - good bet its about air - is the bedding hot as well by any chance (weren't you using some manure?) - I have 4 x approx. 6x4 inch - if its hot where you are, and or the beddings heating up a little from the decomp, that will make them crawl. Let me know how you go
Good video mate, I just made one myself to get rid of the can o worms. The only problem I have and didn't do is build the layers like you show. Should I do this as soon as possible because of winter?. I haven't fed for over a week and they are getting through what's in there so is it ok to add more bedding straight on top? Next thing is I don't have enough aged grass left but have plenty of well rotted farm yard manure I buy in bags along with shredded paper and card will I want to add anything else?
+Shaun Pearce hi mate IDK what you mean by you have no layers, but if they seem happy in it, and its not heating up too much, just leave whats there alone. Every week to 10 days (depending on when they finish it and it cools back down) I add a new layer - I will take a vid of my latest method when I feed one this weekend for you. Look at the corrected feeding method videos - basically you want to place a new thin layer of bedding, be it grass, np, or cb, or a mix - then a thin layer of food right across the bin if you've got over 12 inches of stable bedding underneath - or only over half the bin if youre shallower than that (to allow an escape zone from the heat) - then a thin layer of new bedding to cover the food - lately ive been putting the top layer of bedding on dry rather than moist, as ive still been getting the DVSM come up - and I know im using too much moisture, so that's the easiest layer to put in dry - by the next feed its drawn moisture up from the stuff below. Grass I tend to use as is from the yard as long as it isn't dry like hay - I will moisten whatever else I use "under the food" - but I don't moisten the old bedding top before I apply the stuff. I usually use grass and maybe some NP under the food, and as I said cb on top of the food. Make sure your total new layer (bedding and food) is 2 inches thick or less- more makes way too much heat. I have thermometers in my beds, and after a feeding, the temps go up 10 to 15 degrees - I watch the thermometer to help judge when to reefed - when the temp goes back down to the "normal" level I know I can add more food even if theres a little visibly left in the farm (CFTs are different to other styles of bins guys - don't copy this method unless using a proper cft) thanks for watching my vids ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DZmwzKiTd8A.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8SEcK6BiqIs.html
+Brian The Worm Man Thank you mate it's only about 4" thick in total with the 1" card underneath. All I did was empty the contents of the can o worms into it and mixed it with shredded card and paper because it was too wet and had mites. I'm feeding only half at a time. So is it ok to layer the aged farmyard manure over the top until I have enough to grass again? I'm worried about it freezing as its only shallow. We had a frost yesterday for the first time so it on the change. Should I not be taking what's in there out and adding a big bag of the manure with card and paper then putting it back on top to get the 12 inches or more?
+Shaun Pearce I never like saying its "ok to use manure" as ive had problems with it myself (dead worms) - and a scientist I trust (the zeo guy) tells me the dewormers coming from china have long (loooooong) with holding periods, not like the ivermectin everyone used to use. So i'll leave the dcecision to you about WHAT to use, ok? But yes, id definitely (if it was me) remove the material you have there now (doesn't matter if you don't scrape out every bit etc) - then layer up some bedding materials on top of the CB on the bars - I'd go 12 to 14 inches - then place your "living material" back in there - then I'd do another 6 inches or more of new bedding over that. As you say, this will help insulate for the cold. To rid the mites, its probably buffers you need to keep up with (lime, dolomite, rockdust etc) - make sure you use buffers from now on (ive got a vid for that too) - but while you are re doing the bedding, I usually put the buffer in every 3rd layer (so it gets maybe 3 shots of buffer under your living material, and then mix a shot into the living material, then a couple shots in the material on top.) thanks for watching ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OrX407reTaA.html
+Brian The Worm Man I was using it when I had the can of worms going as I wasn't a wear of aged grass at the time and they are still alive so far. Its commercially made so probably heated to produce it quickly which may help kill off the deworming stuff... So other than aged grass what else is there? I can get peat if that's any better until I get enough grass built up
Generally, worms live for about a year, but some breeds live for up to 4 years The eggs hatch in 2 to 3 weeks, but some may stay dormant for up to 6 years, if there's not enough food or too many worms in the farm. The cocoons can stay dormant for up to 5 years until conditions are right. The worms take 6 to 16 weeks (depending on the breed) to grow to adults, and start laying eggs themselves. The eggs may hold up to 20 embryos, but usually only hatch between 3 and 10 live worms - most usually an average of 3. Baby worms are the thickness of a piece of cotton, and about 1 cm long. Usually they appear to be see through, but with a tinge of pink. (White worms are pot worms, see the FAQ on that) A worm can lay up to one to 3 eggs each week depending on the breed and conditions. Great resources on my website: www.thewormman.com.au Thanks for your question regards Brian
