I'm a semi retired HVAC service/installer/Instructor that also did appliances for over 35 years and this is, with out a doubt, one of the best instructional videos I have seen...Many times a guy can and has missed this fault when diagnosing a no heat problem on a dryer...Crystal clear video and it shows, how the motor switch is not only a start switch, but also, " Proof of Rotation " for the heater circuit to energize and I will used this video when I start instructing again...My thanks to the gent that made it. Vern
My goodness! After over two weeks of finding the solution, this is it. I tested all igniter, thermistor, thermostat, hi-limit...and all were good. I even changed igniter, thermistor. Then I called the service. The technician come tested all and said it's the control board. I ordered the control board on Amazon and replaced the old one; IT STILL HAD SAME PROBLEM. The problem was exactly the motor switch. I was able to test and fix it without removing the motor. Unbelievable! I don't know what to say anymore but THANK YOU VERY MUCH! YOU ARE THE MAN.
Bill, i am not a Maytag repair man, but i completely disassembled my dryer and tested everything according to your videos. Everything tested good and decided to test the motor switch. The lever would not even move because it was full of lint. i took meter and did not register anything. So i took the switch apart and scraped the contacts and worked the lever to start moving again. I retested and guess what, the switch was working. So after watching your video on how to disassemble to refresh my memory, i was able to put it back all lint free and just started it and it is working as it was when it was new. By the way, I have a Maytag MDE6000AYW Dryer that is 14 years old and this is the first time it has stopped working. Thanks for all your great videos Bill. May God Bless You.
All the other videos I watched addressed the fuses, heating element and timer. After all of the fuses, heater, and timer tested good I was at a loss as to why my dryer would not heat and saw this video. I was about to order a replacement motor but decided to blow the dust out and clean the contacts with sandpaper as you suggested. Everything else looked good. No broken parts. I reinstalled the motor and now it works with no money spent. Thank you for making this video.
THANK YOU!! Lint clogged up wasn’t allowing the washer to move back! I cleared it and used silicone lubricant. All cuz of your video! The wife loves me again!
GREAT video, Bill! I have been beating my head on a wall trying to figure out why my dryer is not heating after I replaced the element (which was broken) and checked every electrical connection in the entire machine as well as all of the thermostats and switches. I'm confident this must be my problem. I've watched probably 20 different videos about "dryer not heating" and yours is the only one that added this part. Great job!
Wow, man. You literally saved me at least $100 yesterday. I had all the symptoms you mentioned (all thermostats, heating element etc. tested good). Cleaned the contacts at the motor switch and the dryer is working again. Keep it up, brother. Thanks.
You rock so much! Thanks for making this video. Every other video, and every person I talked to, talked about the fuse and the various thermometers. This was the first video that mentioned the mechanical switch. I wish your video showed how to access the motor, but I was able to find a few other videos that helped in that regard. I will say that actually removing the motor was not required in my Estate dryer. There was a small hole in the bracket to reach the bottom screw (on the plastic part) and I only had to remove the retaining clip. This allowed enough angle to reach the screw and access the section you showed on the video. I went to a local parts store thinking the thermometer was bad (two purple wires), but he educated me that it has higher resistance than all the other parts and I had my ohm-meter set too low. Sanding the copper contacts did the trick! Thanks again, and kudos for making this video!
I just spent 2 days scratching my head after replacing everything on the top 5 parts to go bad.... finally found your video and found my contacts were burned up..... thanks for posting this!
Your videos are comprehensive and high-quality! Thanks! Showing how to engage the belt idler without the drum in place was a piece of genius, and I'm really gratified that this video about the motor switch exists. I had diagnosed it down to this point but was afraid that no help existed.
Thanks to your video, my dryer is now fixed, with only a small investment in time. You rock, Bill! On the Samsung EcoDryer, the centrifugal switch problem results in symptoms of it running for 5 seconds, and then stopping for 5 minutes, running for 5 seconds, stopping for 5 minutes, ... This happens in any mode, even those without heat. When I opened mine up, I found two leaf contacts in the centrifugal switch had stuck together. Very gentle persuasion with a screwdriver popped them apart and allowed them to engage and disengage. After that I lightly sanded the contacts and blew out the residue. In my web research about this issue, I see it's a common enough same issue with Samsung dryers. The copper in these leaf switches is very light, and perhaps undersized for the application.
Hi Bill, I tested everything per your videos, continuity on all the parts. I even replaced the timer. Motor switch has continuity also. I’m so stumped now. It was a bad breaker at the Panel! At least i learned dryer troubleshooting from you!!! Thanks for the education!!!
Thanks for the instruction..My dryer was running, but not heating. I took the whole damn dryer apart and checked all switches, relays and element, all ok. After a good cleaning, the dryer works like a champ. Saved me $500..
Very helpful... i have a whirlpool dryer from mid 2011 that suddenly stopped heating only, after checking all the safety thermal fuses/switches along with the heater element and timer switch, all turned up 100%. Last on the list was to check the switch on the motor itself, low and behold, the contacts that allow power to the heater element were carboned up, a quick cleaning with a small finger nail file and a shot of electronics cleaner spray afterwards, i got continuity verification and the dryer was back in buisness. Thumbs Up!
Thank you for this help. I read the schematic and traced the issue to the motor switch after the heating element and thermostats, etc. all tested OK. I was just wondering how I might test this out and this video is exactly what I need. Thank you for helping reduce the number of appliances wasted into a scrap heap.
Thanks brother! I've been pulling my hair out with our GE dryer. Everything checking out with good continuity and no wire issues but no heat. I haf to scroll and scroll to find this vid. Watched at least 20 before finding yours.
Thank you!. I checked the whole thermal system and fuses and hi limit ect... was good. I changed the element just because the casing was scorched and coil appeared compromised... couldn’t hurt! No heat still, checked 120 vac and 240 vac was being supplied and checked good,,,, so I figured it was something in between supply and thermal system... got wiring diagram followed 240 and came to centrifugal switch! Then found this video soooo back to the dryer to inspect and test the centrifugal switch! Thank you
Thank you SO MUCH. I was pretty much lost till I watch this video, as I never thought the motor related issue could cause the non-heat problem. In my case, the switch was inside the motor terminal, and it looks burnt inside it.
thanks for the video on the motor switch, on your other video i checked out all thermostats, relay and heating element and everything checked out good the problem was the motor switch, thanks
Bill, if not for this video I would have missed checking even though the blue wire leading to the dryer knob was burned at the end. I could see the blue wire ran to the motor but didn't know what to check. Figure the motor is gone since everything else was fine. THANK YOU SO MUCH.
Bill, you have the greatest videos, but I'd like you to add one more thing to the opening of your "dryer runs, but no heat" videos. I tested everything in my Maytag electrical dryer. I took it apart, cleaned it, even took the module on the motor that had the points in it and made sure they were sanded and closed properly. Put everything back together. Drum moves, still no heat. So I had another dryer from my daughter's college apartment. I took it apart, cleaned it, put it back together, but had to change plugs because my outlet was different. I went to remove the plug on the Maytag and one of the wires was cooked. Of course the one that went to the heating element. I know, I should have checked voltage on the element, but I didn't. Only continuity. So there you go. 30 hours later. Maytag works fine.
Just cleaned my contacts and it heated up again. Thanks for your video and knowledge. Also I didn’t need to remove the motor just unclipped the retainer and spun it over to get to the contact. That plastic fan was to much hell to remove.
I was able to finally figure out what the problem was with my Kenmore dryer I had watched other videos and none spoke about this switch in the motor I replaced all of the thermostat and the problem remain then I came across your video and I did what you said and sure enough there it was the problem just a quick spray of contact cleaner and some light sanding and it worked dryer is working again.
Just fixed my Whirlpool dryer with a bad switch like this. The upper leaf had come off the spade lug and jammed the lower switch which killed the igniter and gas valves from coming on. I pulled the switch off the motor, cleaned the broken leaf and soldered it back onto the spade lug, cleaned all the contact points and re-installed the switch onto the motor. I actuated the centrifugal clutch and the switch works like new ! I had really been chasing this problem from the "Hot side" of the power that feeds that igniter... all the usual suspects were good, ie the thermal fuse, the thermal cutoff, all that stuff was good. Here it was the neutral power side that was bad and this switch is in line with that feed.
Excellent! In my 36 years as an in home appliance technician I’ve never heard this explained so well. You are truly not only a thorough technician, your also gifted with the ability to teach! Thank you for sharing these talents with others!
Loretta Cirka This must be problem also. I’ve checked all the thermistors and all have continuity and zero ohms. My understanding was that zero was good, as there shouldn’t be any resistance. The element has continuity as well and has 9.6 ohms. Thermal fuse has continuity. Timer has continuity across first and third terminals, when on high heat. The only thing left wood be this motor switch. Can it be bought without the whole motor? I’ve asked Bill, but no reply. Thank you, Jay (tallyho143@hotmail.com)
fireonice143 The part #327271. Check eBay. Only around $15. I’ve cleaned the lint out of the switch so the lever can engage the switch and never had another issue. An air compressor works great on removing all the lint that gets inside the motor
Hi Loretta. Yes the outlet has 220v. I have the dryer heating now. FYI, you never had all the information that may have helped. This dryer was in a basement that flooded with 2’ water. After checking the thermistors and thermal fuse 3-times, it was making me crazy(ier?). I concentrated to below the water level, but had no idea the motor affected the heater (it always turned the drum and the blower fan). I disassembled the dryer, removed the motor and found all the electrical connections corroded. The centrifugal safety switch moved without restriction. I removed the cover to the contacts and found more corrosion, ...enough so that the contacts couldn’t make contact. Cleaned them all, applied dielectric grease, reassembled and I had heat! Thanks for all your help!
Bill, I have a Bravo XL MGDB850YW1 gas dryer bought in 2012 that keeps blowing thermal cutoff fuses for some unknown reason. I replaced both the thermal cutoff fuse 8573713 and high limit fuse 3391912 Thermister 8577274, and Thermal fuse 3390719 although only the thermal fuse tested open. However, the themister and thermal fuse I used aftermarket from Amazon. The dryer does not appear to blow the thermal cutoff when the exhaust tube is off the back of the wall connection. I cleaned the exhaust tube and the dryer of all lint. It however was not that covered with lint since it was a couple of years ago since I had opened the unit. The dryer will work for a couple of loads then blows the thermal cutoff over and over again. I now know how to reset those thermal cutoff fuses by throwing them on the ground, but it does not matter even after buying a new thermal cutoff fuse the same thing happens over and over again. Does my unit have a motor centrifugal switch? Can a bad centrifugal switch cause the thermal cutoff to blow? I even checked the heat out the back with the exhaust tube off and it gets up to 154 then cycles back to 120 degeees. What should I do next call the technician or buy a new unit or other? The flame sensor and the ignitor tested good at the parts store.
Hey Bill, great video here. So I'm having the same issue. No heat, but the dryer runs. I have continuity between the hot ends on the motor - heater switch when the centrifugal switch is toggled; the thermal fuse, thermistor, heater coil all check out good. Now I checked the resistance on my control board; where the thermistor leads plug into. The service manual says a reading btn 5-15k ohms means replace the board. I'm getting 12.78k ohms, but there is not visible sign nor any smell of burn't components. Any last advice. The main board is usually the last thing to go on these things, and I can't think of anything else. It's also a $200-400 replacement part. I'll just get a new dryer if this turns out to be the issue.
Hi Bill.. by the way your video is awesome and very helpful to everyone.. i have a quick question on my LG dryer they spin but no heat..so i did chk all the sensors for continuity and element door switches and belt safety micro switch its all good..then a did a lot of cleaning inside impeller fan and all the ducting.. Then re assembly everything but this time it wont spin and all the panel settings are all good except when u press the start I heard a tripping sound on the board relay.. theres no sign of burn or smell on board or in the motor..possible motor or board?
Bill great video, I have changed the thermistor, thermostat. High heat sensor, the ignitor, thermal fuse, gas valve with solenoids. I check the switch at the back of my motor drive and heard something rattle and took it off. I cannot find just the switch without buying the drive motor. Do you know anyone with just the switch, mine is black just like yours. I’ve only seen belt switches that are grey and the holes won’t line up. Thank you sir for helping we whom are not professionals to save money by DIY.
I have the opposite problem on my Kenmore 90 series. The heater heats up when the timer is on but the start button has not been pressed, or the door is open with the timer on. It turns off if the timer is in one of the off positions. I am going to try to access the switch and see if lint is keeping it from opening.
Hi Bill great video.i noticed that i was not able to fully use my timer knob at certain points it would not start but at the normal position it would work but would not heat. Would the control board or timing switch have a fail safe built into it for the heater not to work? I checked most of your videos how to disassemble to checking the thermostat and element and resistors and now the motor switch. Seems like all components are working. Any further troubleshooting? i also engaged the motor switch that controls/engages the heating element and it passed continuity test the first and last pins. ( pin 1 and pin 7 as per video)
Bill I have an LG dryer, it was running when I took it apart, put new rollers in, and now when I power it on, it lights up the display, and makes the chime...but does not start the dryer, does three clicks...then nothing...have taken all apart and checked switch...checked motor switch and cleaned, still nothing...any ideas? FYI...thanks for all the great videos....amazing job helping DIY's
I have an older Maytag electric dryer. I replaced the blower wheel and it works, but now the drum doesn't work/roll. When I tested in the first time in heard what sounded like a fast spinning sound for a second or two then nothing. The heater and blower wheel work, but the pulley/belt system does not. Any advice?
How do i get the cover off? I’ve tried everything known to man to fix my no heat issue.. well replaced every part in the dryer but did not know about this... going to check right now! Thanks
could this be a similar problem as i have. My dryer starts and runs for about 5 seconds then stops. waits about 2 minutes and starts again for 5 seconds. not sure if it is creating heat as it is only on for 5 seconds at a time. thanks
Hi Bill wondering if you can answer a question? I have a Samsung dryer model dv42h5000ew/a3 that only ignites the element about 1once or twice during a cycle which in return does not dry the clothes. I've change the thermostat, thermo-coupler, heating element and just recently the main control board with nothing working yet.....do you think it may be the switch on the motor that u referenced in this video or would it not ignite at all if it was this switch? Thanks in advance Ron
Hopefully you can help out: Kenmore Model 110: Dried a load of laundry, next load, stopped, checked it, restarted, Large bright spark. Called repair guy, heating element from contacts somehow fussed together. Repair guy Replaced heater, cleaning out everything, worked great. After about 5-6 hours of using it, no heat. Used multimeter, Cut off switch tripped, "reset it" (threw on ground till continuity was back), restarted. Ran for one load, became VERY HOT and next load, stopped. Bought three new parts: high-limiter, cutoff and cycling thermostat. Tested timer and switched to heat and had continuity non when turned off. Put all back together, ran for about 30 minutes then ran again, cut off is tripped again, no continuity, other switches ok. Any thoughts on whats to do next? Ready to call repair guy again. Also to add, all the switches that I replaced were fine except the cutoff that was tripped but wanted to make sure. 85 for heater coil 65 for all other parts and 75 for an hour... adding up fast. TOO ADD: Since then, got impatient and thought maybe disconnecting the exhaust ductwork and see if that was an issue. "Reset" the cutoff and sat and watched. Coils became red, ran for about 36 minutes. With a digital meat thermometer reseting next to the cycling thermostat on the exhaust inside the machine, it read 111.6 when the reset switch was triggered. I assume this means for some reason, the cutoff switch may be triggering prematurely before the cycling and the high-limit thermostats can act. If so, what next? Thoughts?
Does the switch on the motor block voltage to the element completely? My motor locked up then wire to element melted. I'm being told it is the heat relay but I'm willing to try a new motor off Amazon since it is easy to return. Now when I turn it on the element heats up even with door closed.
Hi Bill, I have a dryer that is providing heat sometimes. I have checked the heater and all the other switches and they all check out good. I think I may have an intermittent dryer motor switch. I will check it out. Can I just buy the switch or do I have to buy the motor with the switch? Great video on this subject.
thank you Bill, this old kenmore 70 dryer motor will run about half a minute then cut off; even in " air dry " on the timer . i cleaned up the centrifugal switch breaker points so the dryer would heat up again ' the dryer did warm up, so i shut it off. On the second time i try to run it , it started this latest mess of now cutting off after half a minute or so. After another 30 seconds you can hear the reset click on and smell electric wires burning I will look at the motor again for a short circuit but i suspect the centrifugal switch that i cleaned the contacts are causing this old machine to refuse to work. help help
thank you alot i fixed my dryer i am 42 and i would love to do this for living but i hate to go to college i love to learn hands on or as an apprentice
hellod.. question. everything was replace in kenmore dryer. electric 240v. The Switch that you turn to select dryer setting keeps burning. i mean fried. th last one lasted about less than 2years. it was i used replacement. Not its burned again at the same wire. timer part model m414g also printed ot the timer is FSI 3390101 any ideas. is there and upgrade part to this
Ok heats up moter don't turn 2017 Maytag could it b same switch ? This thing even heats up with wire remove from element ? Had to remove wire from fuse moter still don't run ?
Have you or anyone ever soldered the contact back. I did and just wondering if it would be safe. The switch is not bypassed so I think it should be fine
My problem is different: (gas dryer): 1. set to WARM -> close door -> press start (WORKS) 2. set to HIGH -> close door -> press start (stays cold) strangely: 3. set to WARM -> close door -> press start -> WAIT a minute -> then set to HIGH (WORKS) All thermostats read fine. Any ideas? Thanks very much. Great video btw.
bill is this switch replaceable and where can I get it on line... Thanks for the video. I checked everything from your first video and everything was good...hoping this is the problem. Thanks
