This helped a lot Jono. Instructions from makers "Ribimex" were not great. But they do suggest that the file height should be set so that a fifth of the file diameter protrudes above the top plate of the cutter. AND that filing should be done always from the inside to the outside. Important for me is that you showed that the chain can be rotated without loosening the chain guide jaws. I appreciate your straightforward instructions without all this American "glad you found this and give me a subscribe trash" introduction, which wastes so much of our time.
Thanks for your comment. Unfortunately it isn't an exact science, there are variables such as the type of chain, brand of chain, and how much pressure you're using, etc. After practice, you'll get a feel for how much to sharpen.
Thanks @@jonojohno8694 for your response. With practise one could get a feel but the time between sharpening and then using the machine can be days or even weeks and can I remember how many strokes and how much pressure I used? In any case it is much better than waiting for the workshop to open and then wait a day or more for them to do this for a yet undetermined amount of money 🙂
I've always done it by hand, My uncle wanted me to see how he does it with this system and I'm totally on board. It's awesome and seems overly complicated at first glance but it is actually beyond simple and the file height adjustment screw allows for complete forgiveness of your mounting inconsistencies. All you need is to develop a technique. This guy use two hands, which I don't like, I like to use one hand and with the other hand placing two fingers over the top bar guide and thumb a bit of pressure on the square bar in line with the chain. With a glove on it it glides nicely and focuses the file stoke perfectly.
Perfect fit for my Echo CS-370, and the chain cuts very well ru-vid.comUgkxBd8qUztQUCL8Rm1-aIig5ViBT2E_kO_6 . I had been using a Stihl chain that I had sharpened several times (sometimes at a shop, sometimes with my own electric chain sharpener), and there's no comparison -- the new chain cuts much better and holds its edge longer. We'll see how the new chain holds up when it needs sharpening, but for now I'm happy.
I have an old Oregon model I have never used and which I am about to try. The manual says "Position the chain guide T-bars so that the tops of the chain rivets are barely visible over the T-bars. The pressure screw (on my model a thumb screw) and the T-bar adjustment knob (a spring loaded knob) on both sides of the T-bars must be tightened equally so that the T-bars are centered in the frame. The pressure of the T-bars against the chain is adjusted by the pressure screw. The pressure is correct when the chain can barely be pulled around the bar by hand. Adjust the stop screw (stop for the "middle" square bar) so that the file's center line hangs directly over the T-bar center mark.
hola, en el minuto 1:45 los tornillos filips deben aflojarse y abrir el arco hasta lo maximo que te de la guia de la lima o las superior, el mango debe quedar comodos y no debe molestarte las barillas de guia. saludos !
G’day ralphd , The file length shouldn’t be an issue. Can you send an pic/vid of what is happening to sales@jonoandjohno.com.au and we’ll see if we can help.
G'day calh. Thanks for the feedback. We will look at updating this video to address your concerns. Make sure you subscribe and enable notifications to be notified when we have published it.
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