Good call, yes it should be. There could be air leaking in or anything with the door on creating flame disturbance. Obviously you would never see with the door off. The door was left off for demonstration purposes, I should have mentioned. Thank you!
Hello, thank you for the video, do you know how to change the cells of the Testo 310. Disassembly is probably done by removing the large rubber casing which surrounds the device. Do you have your own process?
If I want to fine out if the heat exchanger has a crack, should I go by just CO or CO air free ? And why do people says that if the CO is high, then it has a crack ? I thought only if the O2 rises after the blown, then it has a crack.
COAF apply’s to flue gases. CO ambient is more a reading used for living space. High COAF in the flue is not really a great indicator of a cracked primary. Change in 02 with the blower is a better indication. Although high COAF with a bad secondary is common.
Thanks for the great video. I have an issue with a 60,000 93% furnace approx 8 years old O2- 7.6% ,CO air free 0, Exc. AIR-57%,STAC TEMP 140,Dewpoint 123.8 Can't figure out high stack temp and not condensing.First time for this.Any help would be appreciated. This unit has never been tested.Vent doesn't look over heated.Thanks
Thank you for the quick reply. We're out of the heating season so I have some time to figure this out.Temperature rise on name tag is 40-70. Psc motor on lowest speed.Manifold pressure set at 3.4wc. As far as TESP the note on the bottom of the chart( .1 extra pressure available if you don't use factory filter means if you read .5 on manometer you would read .4 on the chart? I think I might have to put a damper in the return ? Thanks again
What can cause higher carbon monoxide readings? If all my oxygen ratings are in range. Unit I saw had about 120ppm on carbon monoxide, o2-9%, co2- roughly 6%, excess air - 70%, stack temp - 112F. I've had units in this range run below 50ppm with roughly same numbers.
High COAF is fuel that did not burn. At 120ppm you are not far off. You have to ask why? Why did it not burn? Too much fuel? Not mixed enough with air? Anything below 250 I think dirt. Dirty burners, orifices. But burner alignment and draft will raise your CO. Burner alignment is a tricky one often over looked. Pressure on the manifold from the gas line, or no back up on the gas valve will throw off the alignment. Sometimes an orifice change does wonder. But no residential manufacture post combustion numbers traditionally. So numbers are considered generally acceptable. But I will tell you, we make a few models that are certified up to 225 ppm COAF in the flue. And it’s normal.
all your readings are off because you are calculating your room temperature and not your combustion air temperature which is inside of the PVC tube and not inside your room everything you just took is worthless
