HOW TO use seafoam properly 

you need to change the title to HOW TO hydrolock your engine properly

Mechanics have been cleaning out motors this way forever with water and other chemicals, if you dont know how to work on cars then take it to a mechanic, I have been a certified master mechanic for 30yrs , although its best not to pour too much too fast and kill the motor what he did to this motor didn't hurt it at all, just hold the pedal down when you do try to restart , never a bigger bunch of fear mongers that obviously dont know a bolt from a spark plug. If this scares you then dont open hoods.

It worked. Last Thursday, (3/21/13) I did the 1/3 treatment (gas tank, oil crankcase, directly into throttle) & got my smoke show. My vehicle, 2006 Ford Taurus 3.0L SFI 6cyl. CEL had been on for months, even popping up after being reset by my mechanic. After Seafoam, I did a reset and it has stayed off. Finally was able to take my ride in for a SMOG test and it passed. I'm approaching 200 miles since Seafoam and no CEL in sight.

The scream of pain that engine made before it died, hurt my soul..

Seafoam official, they have a "HOW TO" video and they address the proper way to do this without OVER-DOING it. Seafoam is a very aggressive system cleaner. The ultimate use of it is to use THREE QUARTER amounts of the can in different parts of the vehicle. This video is good for showing where to locate a brake booster line, but NOT proper use of seafoam.

I was told by a certified ford teacher from the auto school I graduated from to use the whole bottle and ether flood it to shut off or turn it off when the bottle is gone, then let it sit over night do that it soaks into the carbon and loosens it all up, then the next day start it up and go out and let loose on it to get it all out, he told me that when he worked for ford he used to keep cars over night so he could use a similar ford product the same way

How to hydrolock your engine The rod knock before the engine stalls is phenomenal. Bravo

LMFAO....I wouldn't let you work on my wheel barrel......

I wanted to see part two of starting it back up. Lok

more like how to make your s-10 sound like a 7.3l powerstroke being started in antarctica.

What you're supposed to do is pour it into the intake at a rate where the engine wants to stall but doesn't. Once you've put 1/3 to 1/2 of the bottle into the engine, shut the engine off and take a smoke break. Come back and start her up, then go for a drive until there's no more smoke coming out of the tail pipe.

Use the PCV Vac Line. Thats what gets blocked and full of carbon. And you only use about 1/3 of the can. You dont put it in until ur engine stalls. you put a bit in and the second you are done pouring, shut it off and let soak in for about 10-15 mins. u do not want to hydrolock ur engine. when you start it back up, be expecting heavy white smoke for about 5-8 minutes depending on how much carbon is built up. then split the rest of bottle btwn crankcase and gas tank.

Your first mistake was thinking that Mechanics wear gloves...

this approach is what I did to a 1993 used Maxima I bought that was horribly maintained. I got all the burned carbon off very well with this approach. It is a well proven method for burning off all the carbon deposits on a very high mileage engine, especially a poorly maintained engine. good video guys!

Honestly, that knock sounded like the valve knock you get from cheap gas but louder. I think the engine is fine!

I have a 1968 Camaro with 786,00 miles on it and it still runs just like new.The body is mint and the engine uses no oil.EVERYTHING is original.Thanks SEA FOAM.I plan to rebuild the small block V8 @ 1 million miles.

ive used it on my 07 civic si and it runs great!!! Alot of white smoke came out of my exhaust. i have 98000 miles on my car

i seafoamed my truck about 3 weeks ago and i actually let the vaccum suck the stuff into the engine, i never once forced the stuff into the vaccum line. gotta be careful with this stuff as you cans ee can do harm to the engine if not done right. now thats been said, this stuff works amazing. i will deff. use seafoam again.

not saying this is the right or wrong way, but i think it would take a lot more to hydrolock a motor. assuming a 4l 6 cylinder with 9:1 compression, each cylinders beginning volume is .66l, and the final volume in the combustion chamber with piston at tdc is .074l, or 74ml. that whole bottle is only like 500ml. to hydrolock, you would have to somehow put 15 percent of that bottle into a single cylinder in one revolution of the crank. im not a mechanic so please chime in if you are, but with the pistons moving at 1000rpm, i think that would be hard to do.

I did this same thing to my truck through the same vacuum hose and my engine made a very loud, metallic CLUNK sound. I thought I had ruined it or bent something inside. It freaked me out but didn’t seem to affect it in any way luckily.

@mtmiller1210 no its 1/3 brake booster, half in the oil and 1 can in the gas tank. i read on the can to do this. it says nothing about stalling, it says to add slowly then to turn engine off and to restart after five minutes.

@mtmiller1210 Pulling a vacuum line, especially one as big as the brake booster line will cause rough or erratic idle, if not make the engine stall. As for the knocking. Sounds like they spun a rod bearing while making the vid lol.

Supposed to only use 1/3 of the Seafoam in the brake booster vacuum line. At my job we use Valvoline fuel injector cleaner the same way and it creates a rough idle and sometimes shuts off the engine. You have to give it a little throttle, but not too much. Just enough to prevent the engine from shutting off. The Valvoline is a non-smoke solution, but at home I use Seafoam on my Jeep. 1/3 in the vacuum line, 1/3 in the fuel tank, and 1/3 in the oil.

I run seafoam through vacuum lines at every oil change, not harmful but very helpful. Vehicle stalled due to someone not pressing the gas while running it, all the fluid will cause the car to stall to due the vacuum line not being open, give it some gas and itll be fine.

the sound at end is like when you screwed rod bearings due to lack of lubrication.

Anyone watching this please don't do what these idiots just did. You are only supposed to put 1/3 of the bottle really REALLY slow.

You don't install seafoam, you USE seafoam. Looks like the author changed it. Thumbs up!

It does help get deposits out. I used it on my truck about 6 times in the past 5000 miles and get lots of particulate every time.

@mccarterjg technically yes, but it takes tons of force to do so for very little compression so therefore they are branded as incompressable. It takes about 6000 psi to compress water slightly, the average car engine runs about 80-125 psi so for this case it is incompressable. Even in diesel engines the psi is only about 5x the average car engine.

@4x4jeepmuddin although it may not be hydrolocked, this is def. not the prpoer way to seafoam a car. You have to let the car sip the seafoam so it can actually work. Whe you pour it like you did, youre wasting it...

He is doing it the right way , the only thing he didn't do was have someone in driver seat keeping the rpm s at 2 grand . If it was held at 2 grand while he was doing it it wouldn't had happen.

@4x4jeepmuddin You don't poor Seafom down your intake at IDLE, You have to rev it up to about 4k RPM's so you avoid what just happend here. You can also use plain water, It will Steam clean your engine and removes allot of Carbon. Ever pulled a Cylinder Head from a blown head Gasket, the piston that burned your coolant will look like new in comparisson to the others

well on this motor that brake booster line is right above bank one cylinders 1 3 and 5. those are the only cylinders its going into. well it might be going into the others but the majority of it is going into 135. so take the air temp sensor out of the air intake tube and pour it in there. then it will be a mist and go into all cylinders equally and also clean out the idle air control valve iac aswell.

@bobwatters Really? Where did you read that? The "Seafoam" is a strong petroleum solvent. If the cat has a coating of burned oil or contaminates, it may clean all of that off, OR it may damage the ceramic honeycomb of the cat.

@1:45 I was like who the fuck is starting up a tractor in the middle of a video. Lol

It will clean the Honda engine, but the low compression will likely not change. You can still drive it that way after.

the only add i put in my crank is lucas, i have done this once though. i used a half a can and let it sit five min with motor off. then start and let idle a while, worked great 20k later still strong

The pcv valve and brake booseter on all vehicles go to the same place, The intake. On 4 out of five vehicles I own the booster and PCV valve come in within an inch of each other. The fifth is so old it has manual brakes. If you have oil in your intake you have some other issues that need to be adressed.

The actual way to use sea foam is to cut the lid of the coke can off, add about half of the sea foam in the coke can. Now remove the vacume line from the brake booster, leave the valve in the brake booster it is just the open line itself. Feed the line directly into the coke can, until it has sucked up all of the fluid you may turn off your engine. You may need to rev it up some to keep the engine stalling out. Let it sit 10 min then start it up again and run it out of the system.

Works good in my lawnmower I only use chevron techron in my vehicles....

my poor 2002 Mazda Milly is getting up there and i love her. sometimes, i will use a whole can of Seafoam on about a half a tank of gas, just to really get it in there. she has over 120,000 miles and i keep up with her upkeep. just sayin. lol.

This should be titled how to fu×* your engine up.. lmao

the reason it knocked is cuz its meant for a super slow drip... and a raised idle helps burn that shit off faster.

@wigsplittin26 or find a smaller vacuum line. I'm not sure why every one goes for the largest vacuum line on the car.

I got a bottle in my cadillac northstar engine and it didn't even smoke... only a little rough idle... hopefully it got better....

You can flood the engine and damage a lifter rod because you can't compress fluid. Only pertains to older rocker based ohv's

wow that was way too much at a time, and the correct way is to hold it at 2000rpm while you do it using a tool to hold the gas pedal for you. ive done this a thousand times at the dealer but using the canister to hook it up to that hose, same concept tho but it just trickles in instead of you pouring it in lol

I love it! Back yard meching at its best. Course this is only for valves and rings, not injectors.

@looncraz Mopar has a product in a spray can that is basically water and some type of oil frothed into a foam. You spray it into the t-body with engine running, just like sea-foam, but since it;s a foam, you couldn;t possibly hydrolock it. You shut the engine off and allow it to sit 10-15 minutes, and then fire it up. It works great and chrysler even recomends it to us (chrysler tech) when a sticking valve is suppected due to carbon buildup. You should try it. PN 04318001ac.

@suppaman12 Nope, you won't. If you use WAY too much water, however, then you certainly could... but it would take quite a bit for most cars. The water turns to steam and cleans off the cylinders, exhaust valves (not intake ones too well, though), and even the catalytic converter. Many many many engines have suffered a blown head gasket and combusted plenty of coolant without having anything other than a nice clean cylinder - and a head gasket job of course...

Place the Sea foam into the engine through the PCV inlet. The brake booster line does not get both heads. You are supposed to keep it going in while revving the engine then the last bit you stall out the engine. Wait 10-15 minutes and let the car run. The idea is to let the seafoam get into both heads and get it all over the heads, lifters, push rods, and valves. Brake booster Vacuum is ok, but doesn't get everything.

there is actually a tool they make that pops a hole in the bottom of the can, has a hose the you can connect to the vacuum like they did in this video, and it will slowly suck the seafoam out. but what they forgot to mention, is after you've sucked up it all up, let you vehicle sit for about a half hour to an hour, then run it and drive the crap outta it. letting it sit lets the seafoam soak into all the carbon deposits and breaks them up. if someone knows the name of the tool, chime in please

there are many flamers to products like these, saying they are just gimmicks, the guy that invented sea foam, for marine usage, probably didn't expect it to work as good as it does, and also it is petroleum based, instead of some other chemical like acetone (do not use for car, ever).. sea foam also has water encapsulates to pass water out of fuel tank/system

Should be called how not to add a whole can of seafoam into the vacuum line. 1/3 pints into the vacuum line turn off engine for 5 minutes to soak then start it , 1/3 pints in oil other 1/3 pints into the gas.

actually this is how to use it, ive done this many times and if your vehicle is performing very poorly, it can give amazing results. as far as hydro locking. it would really take a lot of WATER to do that, im not saying its not possible but you'd prolly need to have the entire bottle, or 2 dumped in, really fast. you only put in 20-30% or maybe its half of the can into it, slowly, it starts to choke and bog down, u cut the engine, let it sit for 5-10 min, have fun smoking your neighborhood out

I like the rod knock at the end... lol

I'm an ME and you shouldn't pour it in so fast, let the engine ingest it. I disagree that you're supposed to stall it. If you're pouring enough in to stall it, you run the risk of hyrolocking your engine and bending rods or snapping a crankshaft. Pour a little in at a time and let the motor ingest and soak it up. then shut if it off. I have three cars all with over 250k miles. No problems, very minor maintenance and they are all still running strong.

Also check out the video of me running it after sitting for only 30 min with whole bottle in it... But the reason I was talking to my teacher about it was that using IDS fords scan computer on my 2000 V6 mustang I found a slight misfire on several cylinders and some injector leak down problems, I used the whole bottle and let it sit over night, it almost completely fixed all the problems

@rocker4u123 liquid compresses but not at any rate compared to air

Car was in the shop yesterday to get bad alternator and belt replaced. Mechanic wanted to know what I did to fix the misfire from months before that was causing the CEL. I told him I seafoam it.

the safest way is to add seafoam to the gas tank if is full tank dip all the seafoam to the gas tank it will depends how much of gas ur car has if it is half of tank u dip half bottle. i recommend full tank and all bottle

I like how u choked the engine, you beer bong it! lol

I wanna see an after video of this....

ok well my L1 certified certificate recommends you pour it in a in line air pour can .. when u pour liquid straight into the intake , all you doing is encouraging for hydro / vapor locking and can at some point brake , rist pins , main bearing pre wear , and make you spend tons of dollars .. save your money and use the right tools ...

@4x4jeepmuddin Any vac line that will enter into the intake mani and cover all cylinders as evenly as possible is definitely key. fuck all the haters. it does sound weird cause of the camera when the car is stalling out but of course its gonna stall, thats whats supposed to happen. not hydrolock. This is why I work on my own car cause these people writing this ridiculous comments are probably "mechanics" at midas. hope the blazer is still runnin tough.

I usually just put the end of the vacuum hose in the bottle until it stalls.

DO NOT TURN THE KEY OFF RIGHT AFTER YOU GET DONE POURING IT IN I DID THAT ON MY 1995 CHEROKEE AND IT KEPT RUNNING!!!! VERY ROUGH UNTIL I TURNED THE KEY BACK ON. But otherwise HUGE power increase it roars with its cat back cherry bomb just. Just some words of advise rev it real hard for like 5 seconds the cut it.

So many unintelligent comments here. How many of you are mechanics? no one? okay, then shut up. This is a proven way of using Seafoam. it works.

My friend blew his truck up doing this. He also stuck the hose in the bottle and it sucked most of it up at once. Be careful doing this.

One thing its really good for is exposing exhaust leaks

did his engine just quit on him?..

Honestly that was epic...and you posted this!! Must be "friend" with the camera who promised to not post lol...

The knock is from too high a concentration ratio of solution vs air/fuel. In essence: spark knock, or too lean. Sounds awful, isn't great for things made of metal to make sounds like that, but then again a Ford 5.4L sounds like it's gonna sling itself apart for 3-5 full seconds after an oil change....still gonna change the oil again tho ;-)

How could sea foam in the top end of the engine have anything to do with rod bearings. Think about it. This is a safe procedure, just go slow with it. And like is mentioned it could be very hard to hydraulic the engine with the amount the booster line is taking in. After the engine dies if you are concerned in any way, remove the spark plugs and bump it over a few times to clean the cylinders of the excess. Then start it up and run it until the exhaust is clean.

i did this to my 95 Buick 3800 v6. and it seems like it made my problem worse, it runs different and i am still getting the hesitation when i first hit the gas. any ideas. i have changed the plugs wires cleaned the egr valve, changed the fuel filter and pcv valve.

@generatrix999 Yes exactly those of us who run boosted cars stand a great chance to have exhaust leaks...next in line from that would be the boost leaks which are like an every week thing for me :(

@4x4jeepmuddin ive used sea-foam many times i love it it works great.. yes the motor MIGHT hydro but unlikely ive stalled it

It's a documentary on how to install seafoam. Fist thing you wanna do is open it up.

@zlogsdon281 ALL engines suffer and develop "carbon buildup"... Only other way to remedy that problem that occurs over time is to pull it all and do a complete overhaul, and that costs alot more than 8 bucks.. Seafoam is generally used by the type of people that care for their cars, and DO maintain them well. Every tool has its job, and seafoam get the carbon out, pour it up in your oil for a few miles too, see how u love it after...

Are you supposed to let the Seafoam stall the engine, or are YOU supposed to turn the engine off?

@wigsplittin26 "putting seafoam into a vacume line, or even PCV line" the brake booster uses a vaccuum line as does the pcv valve.... the whole idea behind pPositive Crankcase Ventilation is to suck random gas build up into the motor's intake. as tor the hydrolocking thing..... all wingsplittin26 said was it was close, not it was hydrolocked. and you probably should slow down a little bit, its not a race to get the whole can in at once, and it definitely wont hurt to take your time anyways.

Make sure you replaced the gasket too when you replaced the EGR valve..

An easier way to do it, at least when I do it, I use a small jar and put the seafoam in that. Then disconnect the hose from the brake booster and put it into the jar, it will suck it up into the hose and into the system rather than dumping seafoam all over the place. Just dont jam the hose down into the bottom of the jar as it will suck in too much and kill the engine.

Sorry, but an engine does not make a bad knocking sound when you shut off the ignition. As for hydro locking, not possible with that little bit of fluid. The cylinders just got too wet, that is all. let it sit for a bit, then crank her over til she fires back up, good as new.

it dosent really matter. you can do the whole bottle in gas tank, oil, or intake. depends on what you want to clean up.

There are other videos that say NOT to poor so much in to the vacuum line because it could vapor lock the engine.

you by a drip bottle and fill it up and hook it up too a smaller vacuum line and hang it so it sucks in a small amount at a time it will clean just as good without all that smoke and tearing up your cats and o2 sensors . just pouring it in the intake pretty stupid

dont use this on old motors. sometimes on those old motors the sludge from the oil is clogging up some leaks. did this on an old car and unclogged those leaks and started leaking oil everywhere. and dont say im not a "mechanic" ive been working for nissan for multiple years

The way he is doing it will remove the carbon from the engine. That part of correct. The stupid thing is did was let the truck stall out. Pretty stupid thing to do, and I'd take this video down so people don't follow your ridiculous instructions.

you CAN'T clean inside the carb or injectors going thru the vaccum lines, this vid only shows how to clean the intake and back side of the valves, which has little affect on performance .

Why would u use a 1/3 in the oil? Wouldn't it break down the oil?

i dont give a shit what anybody says, i love seafoam. with an understanding, its not a permanant fix to everything

How about the intructions on the Seafoam can itself. 1/3 pint, not 3/4 of a can...

That is a good question VoolasIce2, That carbon has to go through it.

So why does the bottle tell you to warm the engine and keep it running while pouring one third of the bottle into the main vacuum line?

if you dump it in while the cars off youll hyro lock it..but will start back up with in 30 minutes

@4x4jeepmuddin It would have been easier if you poured it in a cup or bowl, the stick the vacuum hose in it, little by little until the hose sucks in the sea foam ans stall out. I myself im going to try it. Then afterward use plus or premium with and octane or lucas additive in hopes it cleans my cat conv.

I thought you were supposed to pour it into the fuel pressure regulator hose?

cant vapor lock it while it running..has to be applied while off

@TheMarioDee amen lol. I just seafoamed my truck lucky this isn't the first vid i saw or post that i've read. It helped a little bit but its not like people say. A little smoother idle and maybe a bit more response but thats it. I did see a bunch of sludge in my oil pan afterwards though.