How to Wire an Electric Choke 

Excellent insight. Thanks for taking the time to share! I’m going to pin your comment.

Wire a relay straight from the battery with a waterproof fuse. Use an oil pressure choke switch to trip the relay. Then the choke only gets power with oil pressure.

@@matthewklein9225 That is good thinking and "Best Practice" as those adding fuel injection should use this circuit as well. Few, I believe want to in a ditch with a broken fuel line spraying over everything that is hot. I was with a friend at 3AM when the volunteer fire dept had to respond. He was a crew chief and his keys allowed us to us a new fire engine the town bought and trained on. Fog allowed a semi with a load of potatoes to head-on a Ford pickup with camper. Water shoves fuel every direction you spray it, so coordinating was required. Cold, wet and working a hose revealed gears, diff and crank hanging out of a broken block. Only 3 hours later had found a 19 year old in the ditch and highway patrol came, set up barriers and shut down a major highway. I think I feel asleep at 6PM that day. So folks, use the oil pressure switch for dual terminal action. DK, ASE master since 78

@@matthewklein9225 Yes, best plan. I always wire the positive feed by way of a relay, best way to ensure sufficient power supply on these old vehicles. If you're running an old Ford, you can also use the STA (stator) connection on the alternator energize the relay.

I have a sending unit with power terminals. works great.@@matthewklein9225

Awesome! I’m glad these videos are useful to you. Carburetor tuning is actually quite easy. Just need to follow a process and it can be done. Good luck!

Always the best choice with the fuse option. Thanks Robert!

I’m guessing the exhaust bypass under the intake was much less of a problem with leaded fuel. With ethanol based awful fuel we have today; not so much. Thanks man!

I did the same thing with a 1407 on a mopar big block. Night and day!

I try to focus on that for every video. Doesn’t do any good to know how if you don’t know why! I’m glad you enjoyed it!

That’s awesome! Lots of credit to the you all for putting your hands on it and doing the work! Good job! Glad the videos were helpful.

Very glad it was useful for you!

Thanks!

Thanks man! Hope all is well with you this holiday season!

@@MuscleCarSolutions doing well hope you and your family are well !!

Awesome. Thank you!

Thanks boss! Appreciate that!

Thanks!

Every year I lived there, the cold rainy weather started in September! 😂 Hope all is well up there and the heavy rains have gone.

@@MuscleCarSolutions actually it's been recorded breaking rain fall lately you're videos are awesome 👍

Much appreciated. Thank you!

Glad it was useful for you! Thanks!

Yea that makes sense,, that is my plan also. What he did not say,, once the choke is fully open, it stays open and hot. I just bench tested mine its about 120 degrees, so it will stay 120 until key is turned off. it also took about 8 minutes to open all the way on bench,, of course i am not sure how far it opens in side choke housing.

Which is the stater wire how would I recognise it

I've got an old Chevy truck like this and that's how I did mine. That's how Ford does theirs from the factory. Pretty slick I think

Thanks man. Happy holidays to you!

Nice! I’m glad this was helpful!

Cool. Thanks man.

A well set electric choke on the street is hard to beat. Nothing wrong with a manual choke though. That’s more of a preference thing I guess. Cheers!

@@MuscleCarSolutions Yes I agree. Convenience of an electric choke is good for the street.

That's the way GM chokes were wired from the factory for years. Great way to do it.

Where is this located please

I did a video on what size carb to install if you want to view it to understand why. In your case, a 500 CFM will be just fine. Go with the AVS2 though.

Well that ought to be a whole new driving experience once you get it fixed!

Yes, if it didn’t have the port that keeps it cool. But that cooling port is an integral part of the choke. I did a short on this a few weeks ago if you’d like to watch it for a visual explanation.

😂😂😂 Thank you!

Isn't the horn and brake lights always hot. I would prefer a keyed ignition source. Or am I missing something here?

@@robertclymer6948 Sorry, I was making a joke about that. If you used my suggestion you’d have to blow the horn or step on the brakes for the choke to work. If you wired them all together the horn would blow when you stepped on the brakes.

Wow.

🤣😂

Not familiar with that application, but as long as it’s key on, that doesn’t have a resistor in it and is 12V you’re good to go.

Yes that is correct. Key on will draw power till key off. .05V

I was in Riyadh in November 2019 for the seasons event. I did a video on it. Very fun event! Yea it could be normal for a little bluish smoke if it’s in a very rich condition.

@@MuscleCarSolutions thank u .u are welcome to Riyadh.

It’s really a slow process. Back waaaaaaay in the old school days when points distributors were the thing, going key on and not starting meant way worse problems than the choke opening up a little. I mean I guess if you’re turning the key and not attempting to start is a thing then yeah I can see finding another source. Dare I ask why?

The coil is run on a resistance wire and won’t provide enough power to the choke. See it all the time. It’s the lazy place to hook it up bad it will eventually give you problems if it’s not already.

@@MuscleCarSolutions Thank you so much! That might be the issue I’m having! I’ll probably look about rewiring that. Wish I had this knowledge before hand. I sent you a message on Instagram about some other issues I’m having asking your opinion, it’s also in the comments on another video. Mind taking a look at that for me?

@@MuscleCarSolutions hi there, excellent video. You're right if the coil + wire is a resistance wire, then do not wire Up there. However, if you're using electronic distributor with MSD coil, it's full 12V on the coil + so I believe should be OK. Your opinion please. Thanks mate

Looking at the spring when he disassembled it , could probably clock the spring at 90° increments to get your desired direction.

Mount the Carb backwards?

@@iansteward4708 can't do that, the ram air won't work

I’m not 100% sure you can use that mixture solenoid on top of the carb as a source. If it had an electric choke on it from the factory, there will be a wire already ran. If not, just run your own. Hard to say without eyes/hands on.

There’s a lot going on here. First I’d get your ignition sorted out. Verify you’re getting the proper amount of power to the distributor and coil. Then check the timing. For the sounds of it, your problems are ignition based.

@@MuscleCarSolutions alright, thank you for the advice! I will seek help at a local mechanic with a good reputation when it comes to setting the timing right. Take care!

@@ollwal97 be careful with that. Most “mechanics” will set timing based on what the factory spec was. Todays world with horrible fuel quality and ethanol additives require much more initial and advanced ignition timing. Make sure you know what they are going to set the specs at before they begin work. No knock on them; they’re only doing what they know. If they’re not starting at 10* btdc and adjusting up from there, then find a mechanic that’s a little more in tune with working outside of a Chiltons manual.

Set it like you set it on a single four set up. Only one carb will have a choke (primary carb). You’ll need to play a little with the fast idle speed screw to get it to the rpm you want when it’s choked. But you’d do the exact same on a single four also. Easy!

The Chevy wiring in that era was a little different if I recall correctly. They share a wire with the oil pressure sensor. Fairly sure that’s correct. There is a spot on the fuse box for the choke. 20A that’s on that circuit. As long as the choke has power and operates correctly and that sensor continues to get power and the bundle goes back to the dash for your idiot lights to function, then it’s all good.

@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks

The choke you can visually check when it’s cold and then go key on. If it’s closed, it’s likely working. You’ll need to verify that once it’s starters and up to operating temperature. If not, could be wiring, could be choke set up. I’m not familiar with the factory Toyota carburetors.

Probably not. Just do a good visual inspection of the choke body and make sure the piston still operates and it will be fine.

12 is just fine. There’s a low amount of power going though.

If it’s key on, constant 12v

Best thing to do is get yourself a test light and find your hot wire. amzn.to/3BPjejy

The electric choke (when wired correctly) will see power when the key is in the in position. If the key is on, the choke will see power.

That would depend on what the switch would handle. If it supplies the volts and amps needed.

There’s resistance in the coil wire. Not enough voltage to operate the electric choke.

@@MuscleCarSolutions Thanks for your reply. Resistance wire no longer exist. it's a new AAW harness with no resistance wire, and am using MSD distributor with MSD coil with full 12V from Ign Switch to Coil + terminal. Another Q, whether connected to full 12V coil + or another 12V ign source, is the choke still getting constant 12V even after the engine is warmed up and the flaps are fully open? Could that be a big electrical hazard or risk of a fire being so close to fuel moisture and fumes? I live in a hot tropical climate where we don't use choke at all. I'm more concerned about the fire risk. Thanks

I guess the last part begs the question. If you live in a tropical environment, why are you using an electric choke? Doesn’t sound like you have any need for it. You don’t have to run one. It’s there to help the engine warm up on colder start ups.

@@MuscleCarSolutions Yeah, you could be right, we don't need choke in such hot climates. However, most classic car owners over here still use the choke on cold startups in order for the carbs to warm up quicker for better idling as most old carbs don't idle well on cold startups. try to start a 63 jaguar e-type and you'll know what I mean. Having the manual/electric choke is like today's modern efi cars where it idles higher for few seconds on first startups and gradually reduces irrespective of hot/cold climate. Same concept. Most younger generation classic car owners/customers want it this way today. Just sharing how people look at things differently in other parts of the world.

Yup. Was just replying to the limited info I had. I live in a hot climate in the summer months and it’s mostly warm here 9 months of the year, but I still run an electric choke on most of my street driven projects. When you said tropic I just assumed mild temps year round. Given that same situation I’m not sure I wouldn’t try it with no choke or probably switch to manual if it wasn’t going to be leaned on to get the engine started. All good!

A key on source.

Don’t know. What brand is it?

No that’s fine. As long as it operates correctly and the choke is getting the voltage it needs, it’s good.

Not sure that I would want to. If you want to make a fused link between the two. But the starter,ignition, alternator are generally all bad ideas.

@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks for the advice man I appreciate it

Yup. You can lean the choke out and add more air if needed. Set the fast idle speed and see how it likes it. I did a video on electric choke set up that should explain what you’re looking at. Just holler if you have any questions.

@@MuscleCarSolutions I searched your channel for "electric choke setup" but didn't find a video like that. Are you referring to your "Top 6 Edelbrock Carburetor Measurements & Adjustments" video?

Find a key switch activated 12v source.

@@MuscleCarSolutions I can’t really do that since I don’t have a voltmeter or a multimeter

@@RobertRamp multimeters are cheap and a must have for the tool box. It’ll prove it’s worth on this first job you’ll use it!

Yup it is. Going to stay that way until the engine comes out in a few months. Have some time before the summer heats up and I need to figure out how to repair or replace the factory A/C.

What kind of carb? I’ve seen some OE stuff that had a single wire but in those cases I’ll always default to how the factory wiring was run.

Not enough voltage for the choke on a ballast resisted wire.

@@MuscleCarSolutions I decided to run my electric choke to the fuse box much easier on my 73 nova fuse box simple. My question is would I put it in the accessories or ignition fuse spot?

Whichever one is only pulling power with the key on. Going right to the fuse box is always the best option.

Yes it’s there on purpose. It’s to keep the choke housing cool.

@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks just wasn't sure

@@jsanchez4652 yup. It’s a common question. All good!

Instead of a like can I please get clarification?

Was typing one out to you. Are you ok????

Sounds like it’s wired into a circuit that it shouldn’t.

Have the positive and negative switched up? You’re running the power through the body.

What do you mean? It won’t close the choke valve or it won’t open? If it’s not opening all the way, check the power to the choke. Make sure the fast idle cam on the other side of the carb is operating as it should.

@@MuscleCarSolutions Yesterday I started it up cold (I live in WA too), and once warm, the choke didn't want to open/come off the fast idle setting. I just re-did the ground connection today as it was grounded to the carb, we'll see if that helps...

@@mattbrown2793 easy to throw a voltmeter on and see what you’re getting at the choke.

Great question! I just uploaded a short to answer your question.

@@MuscleCarSolutions How does reducing fuel pressure via a regulator have any effect on the float/needle/seat doing their job? No yada, yada, yada, please.

@@northerniltree Keep watching my videos. It’s been covered in quite a few.

@@MuscleCarSolutions My '67 Corvette uses a stock (lever) type mechanical fuel pump. Holley tells me no additional regulator is required, as the 6.5 psi pressure this type of pump provides is just fine.

@@northerniltree I used to run mechanical pumps but they break down faster than electric inline, especially if your vehicle doesn't run in winter every year. They all pulsate and if you don't have a fuel pressure gauge to check it's pressure output at high RPM, you won't know it's peak pressure. At 7psi, you can start to see fuel pushing past the float seats, causing all sorts of excess fuel issues, the worst being fuel pushing past the bowl vents. Huge waste of fuel, the engine runs rougher, enough fuel in the carb can interrupt venturi atomization, if excess fuel splashes into the emulsion air vents, your engine will stumble and hesitate, the exhaust will have excessive unburned fuel, you will get plug fouling, fuel washing down the cylinders and contaminating the oil, enough fuel in the oil and your oil pressure will drop and you'll get bearing damage and premature camshaft wear, fouled spark plugs will cause excessive energy in your ignition system which can destroy your coil, or the dist. cap as well as the ignition module.... All that CAN happen in 10,000 miles if you don't get a $40 gauge and a $100 bypass fuel regulator, all this comes from cheap pumps pushing too high fuel pressure

Don’t think that’s possible but the alternator is a bad choice for that feed.

Make sure there isn’t a resistor in the power wire.

@@MuscleCarSolutions I believe it’s the stock choke wire that went to the Quadrajet. 84 c10. That wire shouldn’t have a resistor I wouldn’t think.

@@jasonconaway69 dont know. But 90% of the time or better, its because theres a resistor in the power wire. Maybe you'll find the issue elsewhere. Let me know what it was when you find it!

@@MuscleCarSolutions Thanks for the reply. A lot of people put up videos and don’t take any time to answer questions. Thanks!

@@jasonconaway69 I try like heck to! If I get a notification, I’ll always react to it one way or another. Break out your multimeter! You’ll eventually find the issue.

Start with the basics. When you say cut off, what do you mean? Like instantly shut off?

@@MuscleCarSolutions Yes, the engine shuts off every time whether the car is stationary and the engine is running at idle speed (1000 RPM) or I am driving it at any speed it still shuts off but when I start it again and it starts normally and quickly and it does not take long to start it again.

What distributor are you running now? Did you remove the factory resistor out of the circuit when you installed the new distributor?

And why is the idle so high? At 1000 rpm you’re bypassing the idle circuit and into the transfer slots. Have a very aggressive cam profile you’re trying to work around?

@@MuscleCarSolutions The car is in the UK and it came with a new distributor I haven't removed it. I was trying to say the engine still shuts off even at 1000 RMP but the idle is set around 900 or 950