#nonamenationals You guys have been killing it lately with the subs and we really appreciate it! Hope you enjoy the video! • Transmission "Torque C... • Big Block Mopar 727 Te...
Great Video! Chrysler's 727 Automatic Torqueflite is the First and Greatest Automatic Transmission Ever Engineered it's the Brute for All Racing Applications!
I took the advice I read in a Mopar magazine many years ago. Forget the whole torque and turns thing. Pry up on the end of the band actuating lever, and adjust for 1/4" to 5/16" clearance between the lever tip and its actuating piston. Done. Worked great for me for years.
Thanks this was very educational. I may do the same thing for mine. My 727 has started jumping around, surging, cant make up mind on which gear. Even dies at stop light sometimes. I think I can even feel it acting strange in reverse. This may help.
Thanks. I liked the way this vid turned out. Ricky has been doing a good job editing. Hey .... cam ideas. I could be convinced to buy a new cam. I didnt know cam shaming was a thing. So thanks. Im blaming you.
@@jerayracing I want all the credit and none of the blame! I’d call Isky cams. They hooked me up and have good stuff. I’ve never had an issue with their lifters either.
I use the moroso blue gasket with the steel insert. It’s like $45ish and reusable. I’ll never go back to a paper gasket again if I can help it. Nice job guys
I didnt know that existed and will look for one. We use a 96 360 gasket for the oil pan same thing. 1 piece silicone and steel reusable. Thanks for the tip.
Two years ago, I commented on this video and I’m still referring back to it, thank you for such in-depth descriptions of what you’re doing. Two years ago I had a brand new rebuilt 727 with a 3500 stall, the transmission rebuild shop asked me if I wanted a deep pan instead of the shallow pan, I said “sure!“. Last weekend I realized that my converter is not stalling and the car is not taking off right I took off the transmission pan for the first time and noticed that I did not use an extension on the filter I’m sure the damage has been done, I looked at the bottom of the pan and it just had a gray sludge no real metal on my magnets or anything, but lots of gray sludge. this weekend I want to take the converter out and take it to the converter shop to have them clean it out. What I’m asking you guys is would you do a full rebuild on the transmission? Is there a way for me to flush it? I’m kind of torn because I’d rather not do a full rebuild. It’s only 1000 miles on it but if I have to, I will. Any suggestions?
If it did not slip a lot, clean the pan etc and put a fresh filter and oil in it. Adjust the bands and try again. We get grey sludge too. I use ATF4 My transmission was built in the mid 90’s overdue for a rebuild. We just went 11.72 with it.
Great video guys ! Hey , what is your recommendation for the best type of grease to use on the tail shaft spline/ slip yoke ? I’m reading and hearing various opinions on different types of grease , everything from Lucas red and tacky to some folks use a marine grease that has calcium sulphonate in it … and how much grease should you put on it ? Thanks for any input 🙏
I just use a regular wheel bearing grease and only enough to not damage the seal at the tail shaft, so not a lot. Just don’t want a dry startup situation. Thanks for watching
@@jerayracingThanks for the feedback ! I have two 727 transmissions ( one from a 71’ Challenger with 383 the other in a 86 dodge truck with a 318 ) I’ve been using Dexron III in the 71’ and ATF+4 in the 86 Ram , good to know anything will work regardless of different manufacturer recommendations for each respective transmissions. The truck with the ATF+ 4 seems to shift a bit smoother , but it could be due to the linkage adjustments as well . That’s another area I’m trying to study up on . So 5/16” square or 11/32” twelve point in the adjustment nuts . Great info ! Thanks again for your input.
I scrub both gasket surfaces with 150 grit paper and then wipe them down and use the combo cork rubber MAHLE gasket and no leaks .Got a cork/rubber gasket with the metal sheet between the 2 layers from AutoZone . I did a video on on the gasket if you need a part number
@@trackandtravelwithrick8933 Autozone -727 pan gasket MAHLE part# W39003TC SKU 144452 9 dollars and some change had to be ordered. this pan gasket is a sheet metal gasket sandwiched between 2 layers of cork / rubber
Great video! My Coronet shifts really early into 2nd but really high into 3rd. I’ve adjusted like crazy my kick down cable but am wondering if it’s the bands needing adjustment?
Thanks for the support. The band adjustment wont change when it shifts. Just how it shifts. I use a lokar cable but same for linkage. Get a helper. Engine off. Floor it and hold it till your done. Check throttle blades and ensure your wot at the carb and cable didnt slip. Ask me how i know. Then get under car and ensure the throttle lever on transmission is maxed out for wot. If transmission is maxed out before carb it will have a delayed shift. With your early 2nd and late 3rd gear shifts i dont know. It wont hurt to do fluid and band adjustment. The govorner is in the tailshaft. My transmission builder modified it 20 years ago to shift about 5600 2nd and 3rd. Hope this helps.
@@jerayracing That helps a ton! It’s the little details that will get me. I appreciate the reply. This is a brand new transmission with a Branting 3200 stall. Last year at the strip, it was shifting at 6000 RPM into 3rd by itself. ( I had to leave it drive because of shifter issues that day). I have a more powerful motor I’ll be putting in next weekend so I’m anxious to see what that will do to my stall converter‘s stall speed and my shift points. I really appreciate what you said about adjusting the throttle lever. I did not know that small detail about when it’s maxed out before the other is maxed out. I just subscribe your channel and I really appreciate the reply
I cannot put a speedometer pinion in my 999, the billet output shaft doesn't have the teeth. I also have a billet input shaft, broke both of them with my stock displacement 318 Magnum, of course 20 psi of boost helps! Billet valve body, built by CRT.
Were not making that kind of power So far the mostly stock transmission is working well for us. You have a seriously stout transmission. Thanks for the support.
How do i know my bands need adjusting? Does that impact when the car shifts into 1-2 and 2-3 gears? Mine shifts way to late so wanting to see what i need to adjust after i put a lokar style kickdown cable on and did the TF2 shift kit.
Does not effect shift point. I adjust when I change the fluid at the beginning of the season. I have tf2 and lokar. Need to adjust cable so lever on transmission is pulled all the way at full throttle. After that adjustment if you do not have a bit of slack in the cable, at idle, the lever ratio on you throttle is wrong causing too much pull early on and delaying the shift. Mine does that but I don’t street drive it often. Look at adjusting the mount point at the throttle/ carb lever. If you adjust slack into the cable part throttle shift will be fine and wot will be too soon and not enough pressure causing wear. You may want the cable mount point a bit further away from the pivot point meaning you may need to fab a bracket. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
how would you know what band arm you have? And can you adjust only the exterior band without doing the reverse (inside) band? I just did a filter change a month ago and didnt' think about adjusting bands then.
What gear and what size tires I have a chart. You need to pull the speedo gear and replace it. It is where your speedo cable goes in. They are color coded.
I have a 727 matted to a 440 big block with a np 203 twin stick it has reverse but doesn't have forward gears im thinkin it might be the kickdown band wasn't adjusted properly what is yalls opinion
Travis. No foward gears might suggest that the rear clutch pack is not holding or has a pressure problem such as sealing rings . The steels could be completely overheated and glazed causing them to slip. The rear clutch is called the foward clutch in a 727 because its energized in foward gears only.
Thanks for the explaination. I understand if you mix 70's parts with 80's parts. The oiling paths are different and you would have the same thing. 1 reverse and 4 neutrals.
@@jerayracing yeah, I think that sounds possible there was differences in 1978 when the added a sealing ring on the pump stator . You can use any year 727 case with any internals from any year but don't miss match pump , pump stator input shaft . You can air check that assembley outside the trans a bench. And listen for the clutch packs pop with the air pressure at about 30 psi. Reverse I remember would be the front drum on and the rear band holding .
@@jimifed2798 If I bench tested mixed parts it seems to work. I changed a pump on a 70s 727 and it failed the first test. I looked closer and saw a diference in the input shaft, so I put the original stator shaft on and it appears to pas the air test. I planned on reinstalling trans early this week. It is still on the bench. Please respond...
What does the bolt on the outside of each servo do. I tightened the one near the dipstick. It did not come tightened all the way down. I just put in a tci 727.
Dips stick side two bolts that require a 7/16 wrench are pressure ports to test the transmission on the bench. The fact that they are loose says they must have tested it, so that’s good. Looking at the spare on the bench there are 3 of these plugs on my 727. Hope that helps. Thanks
@@jerayracing Yes it helps and I'm grateful for the information. I was worried I screwed something up. It's a tci trans that cost $2000. I have the Dyno test results included in shipment. Lots of attention to detail I noticed.
Type f works, depends what your trying to do. I ran atf4 then went to dexron 3 and at the track stall speed stayed the same but top end slip was several hundred rpm. I’m back to atf4 and top end efficiency is better. Type f is good for stock builds and no shift kit. We run about 4500 rpm launch with a 9 1/2 “ converter and I can run the same fluid all season. I am considering using 2 quarts of John Deere hyguard to get some top end efficiency. A 727 will run on anything. Thanks for watching
