Back about 30 years ago. I worked in a transmission shop. While attending southwest technical school. Out of all the classes I really dreaded transmission class. Until i got in there. And loved it. Twist of fate had me going on too. Engine diagnostics. Instead of building transmission. I like it so much that still today if a friend or someone has an old transmission I’ll build it for free. They pay parts. Just for the enjoyment. All the modern transmission are getting so technical. And im coming to the end of my career. But my 10 yr old daughter says i have one last car to build. For her. So we will be building her a 1973 mustang. Crossing my fingers lol.
I bought this on vhs about 15 years ago because my numbers matching 727 needed a rebuild and didn't want to risk a shop giving me a different unit. Loved it so much I helped friends restore theirs with great results.
Man this video is already saving me time and effort in less than 5 minutes. I started watching an amateur video that shows one guy trying to pull the front pump by using allthread and a socket as a slide hammer - this guy shows you you can just start at the tailshaft and end up pulling the entire case up from the pump and the rest of the internals.
Great video overall, very detailed and informative....I used this video and a 727 transmission rebuild manual to help me rebuild my 727. One bit of advice.... getting the valve body in as shown at 1:16:55 is not as easy as it is shown on the video. The reason is that the parking awl is spring loaded and naturally wants to close, making it difficult to push the parking rod actuator through. You don't want to break or bend parts of the valve body! So, its best to push back the parking awl with ones finger, at the same time, rotate the output shaft, so that when the awl attempts to close, it lands on one of the high spots of the parking gear. This way the parking awl will be partially open, when you remove your finger. Then let go of the parking awl and attempt to push the parking rod through...it should go in easy.
This is an excellent informative video. In the 1970`s I worked at Spring Division, Borg-Warner Corp. in Bellwood, IL and I see many of the parts we manufactured there. It was a great place to work, great people. Quite a while ago! Anyway, this guy is spot - on, a super tutorial!!
I’ve been watching different peoples videos on the 727 and I learned the best right now at 20:30 on this video. You showed different way to take it apart now to watch the next 1:18:01 yet to learn Thank You 🙏 😊 🙏
This is a great video. I'm flirting with the idea was swapping out extension housings on a torqueflite from long to short because reasons. This is helping me make the decision.
Excellent informational video ! Very detailed tutorial. So I’m having issues with my 86 Dodge Ram that has a 727 / tow package truck , the transmission is shift hard when I put it in reverse. According to various symptoms in the Haynes repair manual it says the reverse band should be adjusted. For the forward second gear band ( adjustment nut on the exterior of the transmission ) it says torque it down to 72 inch pounds then back it off 2 & 1/2 turns . For the reverse band adjustment it says to torque it down 72 inch pounds and back it off 2 turns . Does this sound correct ? It doesn’t coincide with what you’re showing here . Could that be a the lock nut that they’re talking about ? Because you clearly explain to just hand tighten the nut and snug it down slightly and then back it off to the respective turns each adjuster nut . Maybe it’s incorrect information in the Haynes manual , it’s all I have for reference. But I hope someone here can help. Thanks 🙏
Thanks again for the video. I have a 727 with a 440 attached in my 1969 Town and Country. I developed a bad leak from "what I thought" was the front seal. When I finally got the transmission out and slid off the converter, I noticed metal shavings in the bell housing and on the seal lip itself. So now I am wondering what more serious problem I may have. Worn bushing? I now figure that the metal shavings tore the seal which then released the pent up oil that had been filling the cavity behind it. I would really like to rebuild this myself. I am an experienced machinist in my early 60's. Any advice would be appreciated. Also, where can I purchase the special tools you were using. Thanks again, and MOPAR to ya!
I personally didn't make this video but I did use it to help with my rebuild and thought it would help others. Now I wouldn't take my word to seriously as I'm only 17 and I've only done one rebuilt for my 440 727 scamp. The "metal shavings" appeared in the pan on my 727 which had no issues previous to the rebuild. I believe the shavings to be from the clutch packs but in your case it may be different. I'd tear it down and see what you find. I did most of the rebuild myself except for pressing in the bushings. I imagine your experience will help you in the rebuild. If you have any questions with what i did I'm happy to help. Good Luck!
Greetings Mikey Mopar I own a 1966 Chrysler Newport 383 auto when I drop it in drive and hit the gas it takes a minute ? To actually move any suggestions for me I don’t know it it would need to be rebuild
@@JGamez-qk7ke Sounds like your torque converter is leaking back.... to test this, start the car, put it in N for a few seconds then drop it to D. When in N the pump is engaged and will fill the converter.
The 904 and 727 are the easiest automatic boxes on the face of the earth to build. I’ve done dozens of them over the years. Can pretty much do them blindfolded at this point.
Hey I know its been a while. After tearing Tranny apart Its impossible to separate front and rear clutch. Any ideas? Maybe from pressure or heat they got stuck or seized...How can I deal with this? Please help!!!
Well I've never heard of this happening before, as ATF usually keeps them separate. I'd try putting some libricant between the two and prying them apart. Be sure not to nick or scratch them up though. Worst case use a torch to heat up around the shaft but go easy as you don't want to warp the drums.
@@mx_dot I did not find this problem on the whole internet. I was able to brake them loose with lube and tons of patience, and a gentle hammer :) Thanks for the response, thou!
The only ones I remember ever doing that was ford c4 it was a combination of low fluid levels and fluid pressure. It actually caused all the friction disc to grind down to metal and weld themselves to each other. We used big screwdriver and hammer. Hope i was helpful. Either way good luck and give an update plz
Here is a time saving trick......installing the piston in the direct drum is not as easy as he makes it look 1:02:53....my thumbs got all sore trying to get it in with no success. Try this: Put the new lip seal on the direct drum piston.....THEN take a thick rubber band stretch it around the direct drum piston, then position the rubber band so it holds down the lip seal. Leave the rubber band on the piston overnight.....the next day put the new inner lip seal in the direct drum.... remove the rubber band and quickly install it in the direct drum, the piston will be very easy to install...it will literally fall into the direct drum.....try it out.
They are not all necessary, when I rebuilt my 727 the shift kit I installed directed to remove a couple of the balls. Someone may have already tampered with yours
*NO SHIFT KIT!* They CAUSE excessive overlap, even though they market them as a cure. They apply the direct clutch hard before the intermediate band releases, literally trying to bind the trans into two gears at once, which is how a trans brake works. (Sheared or candy-caned input shafts for diesels anyone?) Keep in mind that the OFF side of the intermediate servo IS the direct clutch accumulator, and the clutch needs to be off UNTIL the the release side of the servo BOTTOMS OUT. Drilling the seperator plate is the biggest offender, and once drilled, it cannot be undrilled. 😶 Overlap is that _"Broomstick Thru The Spokes"_ feeling you get on the 2-3 shift, like going over the handle bars. This causes direct clutch failure, burnt intermediate bands, and is killer on thrust loads and splines when the gearset comes to a screeching halt. Excessive line pressure is a killer too. It's very hard on the pump, convertor hub, and convertor bushing. It can also snap bands and break/invert the belleville spring in the forward clutch. It can balloon torque convertors too. Here's some alternatives the designers provided for us: ° Leave PLENTY of clearance in the direct clutch. Why? Because the direct clutch friction disks are splined to the direct clutch hub, which protrudes from the rear most part of the forward clutch assembly. Thus it is splined directly to the input/turbine shaft. So that means that the direct clutch friction DISKS turn engine-speed, engine-direction *during all driving conditions.* But the direct clutch DRUM, and its steel separator plates, are splined by its outer tabs into the sun-shell, which rotates 7/8ths speed of the input shaft, in the *opposite direction* (in LOW GEAR.) So lets say you're taching 8k RPM in low-gear just for simplicity sake. Engine speed 8k. (direct clutch friction disks riding along with it, at all times.) Direct drum, and steels, however, is spinning 7k, in *counter-rotation.* Now let's do the math : 8k clockwise + 7k counter-clockwise = *15k RPM DIFFERENTIAL.* So you need lots of clearance in that pack to keep it from dragging when it is required to be absolutely *OFF* !!! This one mistake fries direct clutches faster than overlap! Make sense? I go 0.130" MINIMUM clearance (no typo) for stock applications, assuring there's no coil-bind in the piston return springs. (Add even more clearance for any high revving application.) ° Use a full stack of direct clutch piston return springs (heavy if you got'em), and a HEAVY (or dual) spring on the release side of the intermediate servo in order to slow the clutch application until the band comes off. That clutch will take up the slack first. Instantly, regardless of clearance. Then the servo will start to regulate the clutch apply, vs the band release, as the METERED pressure begins to rise, with the servo release (accumulator) controlling the pressure to the clutch. Then the pressure to the clutch spikes, once that accumulator bottoms out! These springs and valve body separator plate restrictions controls that rate and keeps the servo in charge. No drilled holes !!! ° Use a 4.2:1 or 5.0:1 ratio intermediate band apply lever to exert more force on the band without having to jack up the line pressure. ° Control your Wide Open Throttle shift-points with the pressure regulator adjustment screw. Counter-rotate to increase. (No more than 6 full turns, using stock pressure spring.) Important : The kickdown lever on the trans needs to be bottomed out, full rotation, at WOT. Part-throttle adjustments are accomplished with the kickdown linkage, but to maintain WOT setting, a shorter/shortened ever may be necessary. Ideally, that lever should go Stop to Stop when following the carburetor trottle position, to reduce harsh engagements, which is hard on the sprag, and your nerves. It's just not necessary. I weld the levers to whatever length is required. Sounds tedious hunh? ° If you want the ability to shift into low at any speed, you're gonna need the 1-2 governor plug out of a shift-kit. But be warned... the low roller clutch in torqueflites are the weakest link, and that function is like praying for catastrophic failure. Ruins the case everytime, at a minimum. Jussed sayin' 😶 Good luck boys!
whats part number on that uiversal tool to compress and remove snap ring last time i was in a 727 was 20 years ago tech school i thought it was neat was taught to assemble wet then got i buisness hes wrong dry when guys do dry assemble i dont know how that would work dry your not lubricating anything worked with a real asshole named Tom Hill at earls bros in fremont ohio he would not teach you anything just cuss all day long and ultimate warrior rope shake when stuff wouldnt go his way cause if he taught you anything he would be less of an asset to the company in my book when boss goes to liqiuor store and runs errands everyday personal bad teacher thats how world is if i teach someone to do that they dont need me Mr. Tom Gricel Hill
Pricks like Tom Hill make people not want to rebuild transmissions cause job scared man cant stand for over 10 mins a day without having to set down drinks 12 pack pepsi a day real company asset thank Jim Earl Earl Bros transmissions
