Howto: Replace Your Motorcycle Chain and Sprockets in 10 mins 

Thanks everyone for watching! Please don't forget to like the video!

Damn this is the most concise yet detailed, no time-wasting-bullshit instruction video that I've ever watched. Thanks for this!

"you dont want to lose them, make sure you put them down somewhere they'll be safe"...*tosses them on the ground haha

While the back wheel is off, that's a good time to clean and re-lube your dust seals, and a little grease in the clutch slave , would probably do wonders to. Not nitpicking, just adding for the viewers. Good vid.

Now that's a how to!! No bull crap, short and to the point! Thank you brother.

Respect for the use of the back brake, most videos show people throwing wood and bars in the rear wheel, or using the gearbox. Keep up the good work, Awesome. Ride Safe

0:55 second mark I describe. I put the bike in neutral then put my right foot on the rear brake and lean into it. The chain is, of course, still installed. Then put your socket wrench onto the countershaft nut and crank it off. Once front sprocket nut is off then remove the chain and sprocket.

Just want to say THANK YOU for making this very easy to follow video for replacing the chain and sprocket. You saved me money from having to take it into the shop and spending hundreds for a tech to do it for me.

Some great advice there. All I need now is a big socket to fit the nut.

Thanks for all your help!!! My step son has a GSXR 1000. he always pulls up Utube to know how to work on it.

Quick..to the point..narrated all the way through..well done. Doing all three on my Suzuki dr650 today. Thanks for the video.

Hi there. I've been riding all sorts of bikes since I was 7, my dad has every tool in the world but we didn't have a lot of money so I was sort of forced to learn if I wanted to have a working bike. I started with the small things first, like changing chains and sprockets, brake pads/shoes and tire changing. I began tuning engines, and then completely rebuilding them. Some of these machines I still have and run great over 20 years later.

Thanks for posting this. I need to put in new cush-drive bushings on my SV1000 and I had no idea what to expect... this helped give me an idea of what they look like and how everything fits together back there.

Thanks for the compliment! The master link topic has been discussed many times here. There is no problem with it if you install it properly. maintain it, and its not a bad part.

This is brilliant and great. You present very well and are so crystal clear. Go into broadcasting. You could. Thanks for this. Will really help with the 650 Vstrom in my garage. Great work man.

Thank you for not over explaining everything. Straight to the point with no bull crap.

Another trick to keep the sprocket from rotating when removing the nut is to slip a 2x4 or something similar in size through the rear wheel so that it braces against the swingarm. I find this method much easier than straddling the bike while trying to make sure you have enough pressure on the rear brake. Also, lots of these sprocket nuts are NOT coming off without a several foot long cheater bar or impact wrench. I had flex in my long-ass steel pipe before the nut eventually broke loose.

You can use the rear brake to hold the rear wheel while you wrestle with taking the front sprocket nut off which will be a bit of a juggling act requiring you to be on both sides of the bike at once, or far simpler and effective to pass an old screwdriver, or similar rod, through the chain links from top to bottom right next to the sprocket, locking it in position and leaving you free to use as much force as you need to undo that sprocket nut without over-stressing your brakes!!

i so badly want to do this myself...but i would screw it up so badly haha. im not mechanically inclined. but luckily, i have a best friend who spends 24/7 working on his hyosung 650, his stage 3 250 motocross bike, and his LT1 corvette.... really pays off to know people with the skills and the equipment haha

Video is pretty straight forward , we need more videos like this in this world

Thanks for the vid and the humor. "Make sure you put these little parts in a safe place where you can find them!"*clatters to the floor off screen* 3:25 "Make sure and orient the spacers back the way you found them!"*again clatters to the floor off screen* 3:53

Really great video dude, you were very informative, no bs, explained everything you were doing fully and kept it exciting. Very well done. Please make more!

Totally awesome video, thanks a lot for posting! I like how you're a fast talker and doer, but totally understandable and make sense without a ton of technical talk. I just changed out my sprockets successfully, and I'm not much of a gear head or anything, it's probably the biggest repair I've done on anything. Took about 2 hours with prep and cleanup. Getting the rear wheel back on was the hardest part, but with the right leverage and patience I got it. Thanks for a great video!!

If you know anything of regular maintenance and actually do so on your bike, clip-on master links do not have disastrous failures, same goes for riveted. I've never had a failure of a clip-on link on the dozens of bikes I've owned or others I have worked on over the past 28 years.

I recommend using a large allen key and mallet when removing the axle. Saves any damage from accidental slips.

I have an SV650S, but I run the stock SV650 standard sprockets, 15/45. Thanks for the compliment! :-D

Great video! I was able to use pretty much all the techniques in this video on my older UJM (1981 Suzuki GS650E). Thanks a lot.

1:57 is the only reason I came. I figured someone would have a reasonable solution.

Great vid, straight to the point and sorted my sv yesterday thanks!

1.5in is near center of tolerance and in the service manual. I believe the maximum limit is more like 1.9in.

One of the best instructional videos I've seen. JayMacC said it best. :) Thanks

Excellent vid - thanks for not fast-forwarding or moving the camera focus around constantly from place to place... those videos are hard to follow and often skip key details.

Great video delivered at a good pace! I'd always prefer to replace the lock washer on the front sprocket with a new one though as I've become real attached to my left foot.

Nice video. Makes it look easy :-) Weirdly, the first video I've every seen that stopped half way through (at about 6 minutes) to show an advert. Hope this isn't s new thing we will see a lot from RU-vid.

Why can't every tutorial video be like this? 'do this, this and this, and you're done.' No bullshit.

I finally replaced the chain and sprockets. However, it took no effort at all to remove the front sprocket nut. I simply step on the rear brake like you did and use a 2 foot breaker bar. The nut actually came off easier than the rear axle nut. My assumption is that the previous owner did not torque it enough. I was able to ride 450 miles and averaging around 80-90mph without the nut coming off though.

I think the ducks are running this channel, How did they train this dude so well?

Great tutorial. Worked great for me, except I bought a genuine Suzuki replacement kit that had a continuous chain. It also had a single master link in a separate bag. Didn't have one of those special chain tools to break a chain. So I ended up using a grinder (a dremel would work, too) to cut one link off (very carefully!! super easy to damage the adjacent links!). Once broken, I fished it through like the in the video. Once the chain was in place, I used a vice grips and nail set to squeeze/pound the master link's plate over the pins. I used the nail set to "rivet" the pins on as well. It took most a Saturday. Hopefully you don't have to do what I did. Get a chain tool. I won't do it this way again. Now if I could just get the clutch adjusted right ...

excellent video man, I pretend to know not much at all about mechanical maintenance but the footage and explanatory commentary was bang on

Awesome! I had to replace my chain and sprockets this afternoon, and your video was the first result that came up. Thank you very much!

What you didn't see is that I already torqued it to spec, I was turning it past that point to align the cotter pin hole, heh. At the time I uploaded this, you couldn't have a video that was longer than 11 minutes. Lots of short bits got edited out. Great observation on your part, though! :-D

I wish all youtube instructional videos were done this way. No bullshitting or lifestories. Just details and no time wasting.

I am glad i just watched this , Last week I changed my sprockets out.....now I am doubting weather or not I torqued down the front sprocket bolt.. I will check today

Woah! I just learned to change a chain and sprocket in about 10 mins with detailed instructions.

Thank you for taking the time to make this video. From the UK

@neo1piv014 awesome! Glad to have helped you! Thanks for the comment!

I have NEVER had a problem with a clip-on master link. Some people hate them and leave some really stupid comments here about using them. Like anything else, if you maintain it properly, and check it regularly you won't have any real problem. :)

Minor detail, lol. a 2x4 or even a 4x4 through the wheel have always gotten crushed when I tried that method, I found that I was big enough to wrap myself around the bike and get the countershaft nut loosened just fine. It entertains people, too! :-D

@code2medic It was clean, look how bright and shiny the raw aluminum wheels are. If you're talking about the goop down by the sprocket, you show be a bike that doesn't have that at all.

I've not got a torque wrench and my SV650 manual says 100 Nm OR 10 Kgfm? So I measured my wrench at 25cm long, and figured if I put 40kg of bodyweight on the end it'd be right (0.25m x 40kg = 10kgfm). I practiced on the bathroom scales and found it reads 40kg if I do a press-up with 2 hands on it (I'm

I had to remove the clutch cover from the other side and using a longer rod from another bike I gently tapped it through until it popped out. I replaced the rod and seal and was up and running again an hour from when I started. Its not a hard repair, but was a bit tedious.

The procedure is the same, the difference is that torque is applied differently when parts aren't moving or spinning freely. You can bend/twist or break something rather easily.

Should add an annotation that says the chain will stretch alot in the first few hundred miles so chek it often!

this is awesome. straight to the point. will it be the same on my Versys 650? the how to video specifically for my bike is 4 videos and an hour or two of my life. hahaha. thanks for the content man!

Loosen up the torquelink between the caliper and the swingarm. If the bolts on that are tight it won't want to move. Just loosen them up a little bit and it will give you the play you need. Yes, new chains are usually shorter than the ones they replace as the old chain is probably stretched out! Hope that helps! :)

Well you could, but I wouldn't suggest it, its not intended for chains. Plus it will sling off the chain and sprockets and make a mess out of your left leg and bike. Chain lube is best, its sort of waxy and will stick. But inside the master link I use a heavy axle grease.

Nothing is in the wheel or swingarm. I have found thats the best way to start breaking stuff. The video describes what I did best, better than anything I could type into text here. Have a look at it again, if that doesn't work out for you, use an impact gun. That'll work! :-D

Awsome informative video, I've always been too nervous to do this myself. You made everything so clear that it doesn't seem very daunting.

I've got an 02 sv650 & just put a new front sprocket & chain (BUT) the sprocket was not to the bike Being, it dose not have the grooved center it is smooth but diameter wise its great. The other catch is on the back side it is hollowed! A perfect place to take the old one that had sheard all ALL the teeth off of itself fit it inside this hallow,and spot weld it giving the new sprocket the nessecery grooves for drive to become possible! This all worked out wonderfully. Or seemed to, but every time i go down the road and back, my chain is extremely loose again EVERY TIME. But by tensioner marks on the swing arm are still where i tightend them to be at so the wheel hasnt moved none the less the chain litteraly has enough slack it fell off just from leaning over turning around in a gas station last night. Its a brand new chain but is becoming wore very fast. If my tire and axel havent moved, the only thing i can figure is it is some how stretching the chain but ive never seen a chain stretch like this Ever! Could my front sprocket mabye be just a little off center, and that be causing such a thing to happen? Otherwise what else would cause this? Cuz im just not seeing whats happening here

Thanks man I needed this hopefully I can chang my chains and sprockets myself

@BigJon930 You can try to, but most of these bearings are sealed so you won't be able to get any grease in them. I ordinarily do grease the axle some, though, but not too much as most of it comes off when you slide it through the swingarm.

@vvtheduckvv I actually used a length of hickory hand rail which is very tough but it did put a groove in it..

Just wondered what technique you used to stop the rear wheel going round when you loosened /tightened the front sprocket nut ?,piece of pipe through the wheel maybe ?..regards mark (uk)

Chain and Sprockets made easy! Great DIY vid bro! Thanks! Love the sound of your bike, she sounds mean as hell.

I fucking love you you just save me so much time.

Hey dude, thanks for this! I'll be changing the sprockets and chain on my Suzuki en125 later today!

yea i never realy thought of that. tourque is being appled in reverse. im gona start doing it this way, although ive never had an issue and ive done it many times.

Even better yet, a wooden dowel of a smaller diameter... then you don't ruin your tools either. In either case, I neglected to do that in this video.

Yeah, I'm known for throwing shit around, haha. But I am sure to put (throw) things where they don't get kicked around or lost. :-D Thanks for the comment.

For some people that doesn't work, LOL! I showed another method that does! :-D

DONT DO THAT!!!! anti sieze is an abrasive compound, you basically are burnishing the bearings and spacers if you put that crap on it. anti seize is a thick grease with aluminum power suspended in it... wheel bearing grease only, and a very minimal amount at that, any substantial amount of grease will attracted brake dust and road grime. Props for working on your bike though!

@vvtheduckvv I'm not trying to be argumentative, but one of the issues is that out of the tens of thousands of SVs in the wild, "some" are harder to get off than others. I have an '04 that I just did a sprocket and chain replacement on; the nut came off without too much fuss. However, about a month ago a friend and I were trying to get his off. It would NOT budge without some mechanical advantage and that wasn't due to either of us being weak. I've never had a good solid 2x4 snap, personally.

When you are breaking loose the from sprocket nut, there is a big message, "Make sure your bike is in neutral, so you don't stress the transmission". Well, I don't think 150 foot pounds is going to hurt the transmission, the engine puts at least 10 plus times that pressure through the transmission in a first gear launch!

best sinr1one if you use your rear brake to block your rearweal you can loosen your front sprocket if you put a bar between the rim and swingarm you maybe cause damage to your wheel or swingarm i removed my bikechain and sprockets last week its super easy if you know what your doing

It should be the same as the SV in the video, I haven't met a countershaft nut yet that I couldn't defeat! RAWR! :-D

Very good video, been looking all morning and this is the best one! Thanks for uploading this video :D Helped a bunch!

Thanks for the video, very simple but thorough instruction.

Anti-seize compound on the axle works really nice too. =)

A torque wrench is only $10 at Harbor Freight this month. I'd do it the right way. But in a pinch your educated guess method should be OK, but I'd still go back and torque it properly.

Haha, nah! Its all about hugging around the bike just right and pulling and pushing in the right places. But a friend did compare me to a gorila humping a grape, haha!

Really useful video! All the other guides I've seen talk about having to 'break' the chain using a tool rather than finding the master pin...is that something not common to most bikes/chains?

@Cole92308 misaligned wheel can cause issues. i remember when i was younger, i built a little two stroke bicycle and the chain kept popping the master link, come to find out, the wheel wasnt aligned properly. just pay attention to those tensioners, and youll be good.

Very well explained, thank you.

Good way to know if you wheel is in straight is get a tape and go from the swing arm bolt to axel and do it both sides :P

Thanks very much ...must have missed that point :)

The chain may be the same length as the old one, but is it the same number of links? Old chains are stretched so if getting a new chain the same length... it probably has too many links. Count them and see! Hope that helps!

Good deal! Thanks so much for the comment! I appreciate it!

Not much, it only has a glasspack muffler and a GSXR front end. I do have a set of cams to swap out yet, we'll see! :)

@stamenosfamily I'm sorry I didn't include that. It resembles a C-clamp and you can see one by google'ing "chain rivet tool" and clicking the "images" link at the top of the page.

@ricardoxh I don't think that requires any adjustment. The adjustment should be entirely in the clutch cable itself, Check that out, lemme know!

The header is all stock, but the muffler was replaced by the guy before me with some aftermarket garbage that was all beat up. I replaced it shortly after this video.

Very good vid I was trying to do this on my yz250f and its basically the same as ur street bike thnxx dude great vid Double like

My seal was in OK condition after the fiasco. But another time I changed one on another bike I removed everything around the surrounding area, that little seal is quite the PITA to replace!!!!

Well, shop labor is never cheap, but parts at retail cost are probably half of what they were going to charge. Best bet is to learn to do this yourself and get in there and do it! :-D

Excellent tutorial.

@gethoht pretty sure the rear axle is 50lb/f

I snap wood in the back wheel, I tried it many times. Even busted through a 4x4... it just doesn't do it... and gearbox! UGH! Thats just asking to break something VERY expensive! HAHAH! Thanks for the comment! I appreciate it!

I had the same thing happen, except at low speed. That clutch pushrod design is pretty poor, but then again it only broke because I failed to tighten the rear axle enough and the chain jumped off. In my case the pushrod broke off IN the engine, it bent enough that the remaining piece was jammed in the engine.

@sacriminal13 Thanks for the comment! So glad I could help! :)

That was Great and that bike sounds Great too!