Husqvarna 562 with failed rod bearing. Swapped out the short block along with piston and cylinder. Fully ported, now is a brute of a 60cc saw. Visit our website for more product and service info worksaws.com/
Another fine video Joe! I have a old ported 562xpg and it’s been a great saw for me. When I bought it it needed crank bearings. Put new bearings and seals in and it’s been going strong for 2 years. Biggest thing with keeping them alive is a sharp chain imo.
Very nice Joe, always nice to see HONESTY about building power saws. I'm put off by some other RU-vid saw builders who BS about how many saws they built and how great they are. Cool thing is you show exactly what you do and provide proof of the results. It's very easy to see that you have built countless saws and know how to use a lathe and grind ports to perform the way you want. A breath of fresh air with no smell if you catch my drift. Charlie Briscoe is another honest man that builds a hell of an Echo amongst other models. You have a loyal subscriber in me, thank you for being true to your craft.. Cheers
These 562s are crazy. 105 of exhaust and power peak at 10k rpm. Man what are we talkin about🤷♂️ It would be absolutely the best thing u could do with that dyno of u could show how a different way of porting may or may not lead to different kinds of power development and curves and also how torque is affected. Like doing a comparison between super high compression and super high exhaust roof/ max rpm so many way of thought and so many myths about these things
Great build Joe !! That’s great gains TQ and HP!! Your understanding of what it takes to make power is very impressive!! What saw in all the 100’s of builds you’ve done holds the record for power to weight ratio? Thank for another great video!!
Nice job Joe. Have you done the field reset for the low and high? It really speeds up that re-learn process. I just did a new short block on one a couple of weeks ago. Husky has made some changes to the seal/bearing by adding a nylon washer in there now.
@@dynojoemods2764 yes that's for the high setting. Idle for 30 seconds when you start it for the Low. You will likely hear it cough and sputter when idling, then clean up.
Nice build Joe 👍🏻 Was that Hylomar Blue you’re using for the base seal? I’ve recently acquired some Hylomar aerograde but have yet to try it on a build - still working through a heap of Yamabond 4 that I bulk bought. I’m guessing you find it gives a decent seal otherwise you wouldn’t be using it, but do you find it significantly easier to clean off? That’s my biggest gripe with Yamabond - it’s a real pig to remove. Also I had to re listen to your numbers as I thought I’d calculated the blowdown incorrectly - 13 degrees is real short but that 562 clearly rips. I rarely go below 20 on a build. Why do you think they’ve gone so short on these newer gen saws?
Yes hylomar blue. I have been using it for a couple years now. Really like it. Cleans up pretty easy. The shorter bd is an emissions thing. Since these allow fresh air in it can help purge the muffler with air before the mix starts to enter the muffler.
It’s a cunning design for sure. I’ve yet to get my mitts on a 5 series saw - they’re not common here in Singapore, what with no EPA people tend to err towards older and cheaper designs like the 3 series Husqvarnas. Thanks for getting back to me, have a great day man 👍🏻
Short blowdown doesn’t just work on these saws. I’ve gone as low as 13 on a 365 throwaway cylinder with 105 exhaust and 76 intake and it runs strong. I’ve tried many different blowdown numbers and I much prefer under 20. It’s important to have 40 degrees from when the intake closes to when the uppers open.
It is a tough one, most new/modern saws are going to this style. The later model ones seem to hold up a bit better than the early run models. Not pushing crazy hard and a bit extra oil, they should hold up well.
