Many thanks indeed for this really useful tutorial. I managed to strip my 110 down today and remove the anti tamper ok. The nightmare then began as I just couldn't get the hammer assembly back in with the pellet prod unit too. I then remembered that I had seen a link to a site from the guys at HW100 tuning and there was a picture of the hammer assembly that then made everything much clearer. What had happened was, that as I had removed the anti tamper screw, the hammer had twisted in the body totally obscuring the all-important machined groove in it. It is essential that this groove is in alignment with the slot in hammer assembly outer body otherwise the pellet prod just will not engage properly into the hammer. Hope that makes sense, but basically it was all my fault for not taking full note of where all the bits go and in what orientation. Luckily for me there are super chaps like yourself out there who have written an idiots guide for people like me. I'm all set to test and tune it tomorrow over a chrono. Wish me luck!
Brilliant Video, thanks very much. Took me around an hour from start to finish but I wasn't in any hurry, just carefully going through everything step by step. I used a dremel to cut the slot, and a jet flame lighter to apply heat to the end of the pin for around a minute. The only thing I really struggled with was getting the spring back in position. After struggling with snipe nose pliers for 10 minutes I bent the end of a safety pin into a small hook and did it in seconds. My HW110 is now running nicely at 11.5 foot pounds.
Fitted titanium tube today on hw110k from hw100tuning. Removed anti tamper by making semi circular vice jaws (20mm diam) from softwood then drilling anti tamper plug on drill press. My plug was not threaded. By all accounts using heat can damage hammer spring so might not be a good idea. Shoots 11.3 every shot now from 8.9 odd. Brilliant video couldn't have done without cheers 👍
Hi I’m glad it was of help to you and you managed to get the AT out using a different method , unfortunately not everyone has a pillar drill etc in their garage or even a garage to work in , it was done to show how basic tools can remove it , as for the heating up you are only heating the anti tamper pin it’s self not the hole unit and only for a few seconds so you can see the thread lock starting to smoke , that’s why I said a jet lighter or tiny blow torch is ideal for that , thanks
Great video. Thanks for showing us how it's done. I have seen some bits where people leave the anti tamper out and drill a hole in the back so it can be adjusted without stripping it.
Thank you for taking the time to make this, I’m glad to know it’s adjustable and will be able to use this, I’ve a FAC but bought a sub 12ft rifle for use on the farm and want it running 11-12ft
I put a small saw cut in the anti tamper end and using a small screw driver I managed to undo the anti tamper screw without any heating worked out 👍 thanks for the video.
Perfect. Thank you for sharing this important information. Very frustrating when you discover your 110 loses power just out of warranty and 'specialist' firms offer to do the job at arm and leg prices, plus, without your gun for weeks on end while your weapon goes back and forth in the post. samr1 ... 100% star! Thank you.
When trying to slide out the whole assembly with the gun upside down, put a screwdriver down In around by where mag cycle/trigger assy bit sits, and just push the black colour plate downwards. as the 2 black plates sit over a moulded stop and it's what stops it just sliding out. You only need to just do it on the one you can see from underneath, and the whole assembly will become loose and slide out instantly
@@SPC234 I have a machine shop so maybe I could do that and thread the hole and make a blanking screw to go in there to cover it . So you can adjust on the fly
Great video thanks,any chance of you doing a video on the re-assembly,mine now out of warranty and only putting out 8.5 ft lbs never been near the 12ft lbs limit even from new!! Cheers
I can't get the shuttle out , is there some kind of technique, it only protrudes out of back about 8mm its hard to get hold with fingers and there's something obviously retaining it
NOTE: loosen T-8 lock down screw inside adjustment port , before any adjustments made to Hammer spring with 4mm allen & re-tighten lock down screw after adjustment
Hi Sam. I’ve ordered my crono now and looking forward to seeing what my 110 is currently outputting. Would you be able to give a “rough” indication of how much a 1/4 turn would affect the output. I appreciate any indication would just be “rough “ given all of the variables involved but hopefully getting a high level idea will mean I won’t under/over adjust it by too much the first time. Cheers Adam
The chrono arrived this morning and it looks like I’m another one of the owners that has unknowingly suffered the power loss, with my 110 producing just 10 ft/lb. I’ve already ordered a replacement spring from HW100 tuning (from their eBay shop) and will have a go at swapping my spring out with their improved one vs the standard one, now I know what the rifle is producing.
Hi I'm abits stuck with the mag mechanism I don't no how to get the silver clip back through the mag release mechanism..I would be really grateful for any help many thanks len
Hi sorry I don’t have the gun anymore sold it 2 yrs ago , I remember it being fiddly , you’ll just have to play around with it try not to bend it but it should go
I’ve got the gun stripped down and I’ve taken the little screw out of the strap but the strap doesn’t slide out at all, the video makes it look like is slides out with ease. Am I doing something wrong??
Great video! I’m trying to adjust the hammer spring on my HW110 (FAC). I’m actually trying to decrease power a bit (so I want to turn the hammer spring clockwise). The hammer spring adjustment seems very tight, with the range limited to 1/2 turn in the wrong direction. I didn’t want to force anything. Is the range very limited or is there a grub screw or something else that is making the hammer spring adjustment so tight?
Hi mine was tight to start with could almost hear it graunching as I turned it but it did loosen up , just don’t force it , and yes clockwise to decrease the power , no other grub screw on mine unless Weirauch added it later
Sam sorry to be a pain. When you put it back together do you know if the mag release catch can be placed on the other side. If you strip it down for another tune could you just see if it can be done and maybe do vid on changing it over. Thanks Sam
Been a while since I did it and don’t own the gun anymore, think it’s something to the way the hammer goes back in , look at vid again and go back through comments posted
Didn’t try , vids about keeping it to where it should be as they leave the factory without the added expense of sending or away if the guns out of warranty,
Yes they wear and are a real pain replaced all the parts on mine still wasn’t right so I guess you need to replace the mags as well but by that time I was so f%cked off with constant problems I p/exchanged it for a Air arms S510 far superior rifle
I’m not sure what this was all about? I think the issue is that some guns lose some power over time and this is a way of getting it back to full power?
@@SPC234 thank you I have a buddy of mine who's having a tough time taking it off. But since we're not there in person I can't say for sure if it does.
