I Turbocharged My Oven 

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You didn't fail to make a windshield, you just made a protective travel cover for a windshield.

"we do not do these projects because they are less expensive but we do the because we aren't smart enough to know that they won't be less expensive" made me laugh lots.

"Send me a sticker and I WILL put it on the car. Any sticker. Doesn't matter what it is. As long as it fits flat in an envelope I will put it on the car no matter what". You sir, have massive balls... and an extremely offensive exhaust pipe. Great vid. Can't wait for more.

Matt a year ago: "I hate 3D printing" Matt now: "I 3D printed a funnel and vacuum adapter for my turbo so I could turbocharge my oven to make a windshield" I'm 100% certain that I love this mans content because he's as scatterbrained as I am.

"The real windshield is the friends whose time we wasted along the way" hit hard. Tears in my eyes. Bless you, SuperfastMatt. Bless you.

It definitely needs a 'For rectal use only' sticker'

The dad of my partner builds velomobiles as a hobby. He had exactly the same problems with his windshield. He solved it by not caring, since the fastest he will go is 15 kph.

Tactical interaction for our YT overlords

There is a nut on the underside of the dial that you can use to calibrate these thermometers. I also have a cheap one that needed some adjustment to be closer to accurate.

A fishtank discovery series put the mould in the oven too. It draped over the mould as it softened. They were using inch thick polycarbonate, too.

An easily missable gem is the type of stickers and their locations. I had to pause and zoom in on them for this laughter.

I will send you a "Nett hier" sticker, which is a german meme sticker (that started as a promo thing by a southern state in germany) so that even in the middle of nowhere that one german tourist can look at your car and be like "wtf is that sticker doing here". Trust me, it's hilarious

I used to work with a company that did vacuum forming of poly carbonate. It helps the poly carbonate from what we saw to heat the mold as well. And trim excess material after it solidifys we would put square plastic blanks in with a frame to then move the mold into the plastic from underneath and vacuum it until it cools, but I am just a guy in the comment section, you are doing the awesome. Best wishes.

I formed the windshields for my boat with a lawn weed burner. I practiced on some scrap until I figured how much heat it took to get it to bend without bringing the dreaded bubbles. With it laid on the old windshield I heated it slowly until it laid flat into all the compound curves. It came out great . Love your content

Bad dragon sticker time lol

The correct fix is to run no windsheild. Use small cameras with a live video feed to VR goggles.

I’m totally sending you a VORON sticker. It will be my honor to have it on this creation.

I used to work at a robotics company where rapid prototyping was a daily event. This brought back a lot of memories of the trial and error periods we went through as we tested new methods and technologies. You mention this video was a "waste of time" but I can assure you, there is more value in this one video than in the other 99% of videos on youtube - combined! I now work for the MoD/DoD as a weapon systems engineer, and don't get hands on so much anymore, I drive a desk for a living. So it's always nice to see videos like these that remind me of the formative years of one's engineering journey. Kudos to you and the team for not only uploading your successes, but your lessons learned too. Far too many people devalue the importance of the journey and focus simply on the destination, whereas anyone who has ever been on a camping trip with mates knows that the journey is often the best part! Peace, my friend, from the other side of the world.

I think you should try heating the lexan on the mold and let it form by gravity. That way it can release all internal tensions and it won't be wavy. Also the potentially grabby surface of the cloth probably doesn't help as it might partially stick as it droops. A+ for the oven tough.

All of those thermometers are adjustable with a hex nut on the back of it. Just put all of the probes into ice water and after 10 minutes set all of them to 32°. Boom; fully calibrated.

how you still dont have your own comedy show is beyond me! my newest favorite channel if i feel i need a good sarcasm induced chuckle.

If the mold can be preheated, it could help with the draping. Ideally a ceramic mold that could be put in the oven with the windshield. This may require a larger oven, but you're clearly capable of any turbo charging that will be needed.

How about enlarging the oven and having the molding process happen inside? I.e. place a cold, flat sheet onto mold (secured to the mold at the centerline), and have it slowly heat and drape over the mold, then slowly cool, all inside the oven. The slow heating, molding, and cooling process may help reduce the stress inside the sheet which happens during the very quick molding and cooling process, and therefore might help reduce the waviness and irregularities you're seeing.

I love the sticker plan

Since my beloved Husky always loved to go fast, I can't think of a better way to honor his attitude than to put his face on a racecar. Thanks for the opportunity, Matt.

3:40 for use in racecars 🤣

ex-GE oven for ex-GE lexan, perfect combo

Matt’s videos genuinely make my day better

That guide is the best lolol. “Literally inside the exhaust”!

Good News Matt, the algorithm worked, 1st suggestion.. well done indeed

I worked for a company making windshields for aircraft, developing forming processes for these. You need to vacuum bag the part to the mold to get it to take the shape. You may be able to get away with clamping the edges. I think lexan is polycarbonate. Try using acrylic instead. It’s a lot easier to work with. And you can sand and polish it when you’re done to get the small defects out. You can’t really sand polycarbonate because it’s too gummy. Let me know if I can help!

I'll never make my own windshield, but for some reason, I now want to. Great stuff as always.

I remember when I was a kid, my dad was building a fancy spiral staircase for a job. To form the hand rail, he made a long-ass steamer out of sewer pipe sections. Thing was like 50 feet long. No idea how he formed it into a perfect helix after that.

Future Matt is going to turbo the sander to smooth out some wobbly lexan!

Blender is great for flat patterns! The UV mapping tools will even visualize how much is each part of the pattern being stretched/squished when laid flat.

I love these videos. As a controls Engineer and an automotive enthusiast the content is just perfect.

I wonder if you could effectively convert the mold into a vacuum forming mold by drilling enough holes in it and plugging in a shop vac. Maybe preheating the mold to some degree (electric mat heater on top) might help a little bit as well?

i am going to continue to allow you to prove all of these concepts for me. thanks for saving me so much time!

I did something similar to create a one-off male mold for a recumbent bicycle fairing. I had a vendor machine two polystyrene half shells ($2000 total), I lightly sanded the half shells, covered the polystyrene core in 2" wide polypropylene tape, sprayed on some mold release agent, and built-up two layers of carbon fiber with some extra epoxy coats for sanding and polishing. I then pulled off the polystyrene cores for each half and joined the two haves at the line of symmetry. Worked really well and would do it again. The only costly part was the very accurate polystyrene machining, but that was a huge labor saver and gave me 3D model perfect shape.

I've made a lot of things using various types of plastic but mostly acrylic, plexiglass and polycarb and I found repeatable success with low temperatures, around 200-250 and don't let the plastic go completely soft, just when it starts to slump and have the warm mold ready (smooth wood is best). The fast cooling makes it wrinkle and the cooler side will pull the curve towards that side. Ideally the mold is in the oven for the whole ride. 15-20 min max. I got bubbles from too high temp and heating too quickly and not having support. Thicker is better to a point. Also possible is covering your mold with tin foil, clamped to make it smooth. The non-stick kind.

"We do them because we are not smart enough to know that they won't be less expensive."

I really liked the proper racing-grade foam board. ❤ Some morons use homebuilding stuff.

Excellent. I need a friend like you that is smarter than me, but not so smart that he doesn't continue to fail at projects. All the while learning tons about what not to do. Keep it up Matt.

You are always entertaining, sometimes I even learn something. I learned about ground news last time. Thanks for bringing us along.

So I too am a designer. My design solution for your problem: ditch the complicated windscreen and make a digital periscope. You have very little to see for a very short time. Spending a lot of cash to un-see through wobbly plastic= bad plan.

5:24 Flocked rubber? what kink is that used in???

I love your videos. Painfully honest and constantly brilliant

Your parting words have inspired me to finish my $15k+ adjustable desk

Fifty years ago, we made an oven to take a 4 X 8 upright. It hung from binder clips on rollers and drapery track, which extended out 9' to move the sheet to the vacuum mold. The box was made from asbestos sheet and aluminum angle, but drywall and corner bead would probably work, or fiberglass/concrete board for higher temperatures. Not much insulation, but it didn't run much, so cost was low. The key to even heating was adding a squirrel cage blower, re-assembled with the motor outside. No problem with thin stock.

Hi Matt- water based polyurethane works well on fiberglass and won’t eat away the foam. I used to make canopies for model aeroplanes like this- exactly what you are doing now- only smaller.

I was thinking parchment paper in place of the green cotton. Also same the windshield mold perfectly smooth. However you've done a great job. I enjoy figuring out how over just buying too. 👍

The only channel I don't skip through the ads. It is a great day when SFM posts.

That oven blends seamlessly into the garden. Good to see you're doing something my wife's been telling me to do for years...working on your body.

This will get out of hand very quickly. Can’t wait to see the progress, keep up the amazing work!

Dense with wisdom. As dense as your garden is grand. Thanks for the build vlog!

im just about to do the same and drape form screens for my car prject using an oven and steel box......apart from making me relise how hard it may be..i think sir your humour is briliant,your vids are a treat to watch every single one of them..keep it going matt...from a UK fan

you are soo good at what youre doing and i admire that😃

Hi Matt. I have drape formed Lexan for a small camper teardrop style. I made an aluminium former (singe curve) and a much bigger oven, plywood lined with rock-wool loft insulation, one which would hold the former as well as the Lexan. The curves were good but the small number of bubbles were infuriating as I didn't know about drying it out first. I bought spare oven parts and made my own heater fan assemblies. I made 3 ~3ft sq windows which needed three formers. good luck with the rest of the build.

I love the sticker idea and the chart showing possibility of being displayed lol

I appreciate this channels approach to engineering so much.

Thank goodness no cursed sandwiches were involved with this supercharged oven.

You got me cracking up in the break room at work. Your videos never fail to disappoint.

I binged all your videos in the past month. This new fan just subbed, and is commenting for the algorithm. Neat.

Thank you for the words of wisdom

Thank you, Matt. I always wanted to learn how to turbocharge my oven 👍🏼

Fantastic content! Love this stuff.

Matt’s videos are always entertaining and this one didn’t disappoint. Love your work, Matt 👍

A turbo charged oven, such ingenuity! Love your dry sense of humor as well.

Epic. Actually similar to the turboven I’d been brainstorming, so 15 minutes well spent. Sticker’s in the mail. Keep up the great work.

Thanks SuperFastMatt, helps a lot!

Walking around in white coveralls with black gloves is the garage. Your neighbor must be thinking about things and then rethinking it again the next day when you put in the garden 😂

I had to rewind and pause and I have tears in my eyes over "Literally inside the exhaust pipe".

I hope this helps...having recently made curved windshields out of polycarbonate for an airplane windshield, I did it much differently and easier. Your "oven" doesn't need to be so hot, only 250f. Make it big enough for the whole form, which should withstand 250f. Preheat. Lay the entire sheet over the form and heat it for about 25 minutes. It should droop over the form. Do not remove it from the form until it is cooler than 175f. Use cotton gloves to push it to the form as it cools. Check on the progress every 5 minutes until you get good results. You may have to increase temp gradually depending on the thickness. If this helps, please sign "Bobby Tee 😊!" on you car with a sharpy! Test my procedure out by making a small mold and a 12" square piece of polycarbonate in your kitchen oven. You will have good results.

I absolutely loved everything about this. I did learn something. How to not make a windshield. I look forward to learning how to make one.

Best YT channel about turboed ovens !!!

"literally inside the exhaust pipe" made my day man, I'm sick but that cracked me up good

Someone probably already suggested it below, but setting the sheet on timber mould in the turbo oven plus help from gravity would do the work for you. It would require a bigger oven obviously. Good stuff 👍

Humor spot on, great project.

Matt, found your channel about a month ago and binge watched pretty much the whole thing! Funny as hell, and entertaining! Keep up the sarcasm!

Came expecting to be clickbaited and was pleasantly surprised, you did in fact turbocharge your oven, what an absolute chad

One of my favorite collection is my library of post-war plastic fabrication manuals. Lots of good tips for handwork in there. Here's one: to prevent mark-off, add a light coating of oil to the cloth. I'm in LA if you ever want to borrow.

I love the humorous way of yours to transport the rollercoaster of triumphs and failures!

You're crazy, i like it. Good luck. I hope everything will work out for you

did the same with 10 ft long oven built from foil backed foam board, but blew mine with air through shaped aperture, came out perfect first time. Screen was about 4 times the size of yours

This quote best sums up your projects: "We did not do this because it was easy. We did it because we thought it would be easy."

I will fully support a line of merchandise with this quote: “We do not do these projects because they are less expensive, we do them because we are not smart enough to know that they won’t be less expensive.” I want this quote plastered on my own build.

I used to make small lean screens with a heated vacuum table and still tossed 2 out of three.

Always such lovely videos!

I did some windshields for ultralights airplaines and these are my thought on your experiment : 1 If you want a perfect optical quality, you need a PERFECT mould. It has to be a mirror finish, flat or high constant radiuses, no waves that you dont want to have in your windshield. So filler, sanding, iterate, 2kpaint, polishing. 2 Pre-heat the mould, but would be better with a thick fiberglas and remove the foam under (infrared heaters are the best for that). For this reason all mold in the industry are heated polished metal. I had nice success on polished stainless steel sheet wrapped on a wood pattern, but no conpound curve in this case. 3 You don't need coton cloth if your mould is mirror with heat resistant paint on it, anyway the cloth has built-in waves and pattern that you don't want in your windshield. 4 When forming you need a way to wrap the PC with a constant traction all along the border so pinch each side between 2 wooden slats with lots of screws to have a nice grab on each side. 5 You need to pull hard and quick. The mould has to be ANCHORED on a strong support. For this size I think you need 4 people, pull away to stretch the PC, then down to wrap when still pulling away, I think you where good on that. If your mould is preheated with still some infrared on it when forming, then you have more time to form before the PC solidify. 6 Polish the PC after to remove any defect (soft cotton wheel with a very gentle polishing conpound). You need some tests to master the technique, I did my training on small model airplane canopy when I was young [;oD

"My oven has turbo spool... and that's hilarious." You're right. That is hilarious.

You almost had me fooled with that "for use in : racecars" part

Fantastic video as always!!

Best fundraiser ever

There is a calibration process for those thermometers. Out of the box they are all over the place. When using them in restaurants we had a monthly task of putting all of them in a pot of ice water and adjusting then putting them in a pot of near boiling water and adjusting again if needed. There was one set aside a a reference point for this purpose.

Worked for Tesla. Lives in Southern California. Doesn’t eat base media bile for breakfast. I think I like this guy.

I talked to a man that made glider canopies, they have a cutout of the base shape and clamp the plastic sheet to it and blow the shape in the oven using compressed air. He said the hardest part wad unbolting all the 50 or so bolts before the air/ plastic cooled and sucked the plastic back in! They had 6 people around the "mold" undoing bolts as fast as they could.

Use cast acrylic to make your windshield. I blew a bubble winshield for my homebuilt aircraft using it and it worked great! Good luck.

i love watching all of SuperhotovenMatt's videos

"The algorithm has fighter jets now." **stares into camera** I'm glad I didn't skip the sponsor portion because that line read was worth it.