This is one of the few channels that I never fast forward the video, because I'm afraid and miss something interesting.. Thanks Steve and Kyle for educating us..
I've seen Alan's Monte doing the Drag-n-Drive deal....and he's a good dude! Always seemed to be in a good mood even when things weren't going well which is a sign of a class act. Beautiful car too!
Steve, this video was just awesome . I was 100% engaged the entire time. I could've watched another hour of it easily . This is how you make great content to a target audience . Perfection.
"....parts I don't make. Yet." You just gotta love how Steve drops hints and is constantly expanding the shop's abilities. He surely is always investing in the future of engine building... 😎😎🤘🤘
Bubbles form during cavitation. As the pressure in the pump increases, those bubbles collapse in the form of an implosion - equally as violent as an explosion. The implosion causes shockwaves to travel through the liquid and hit the impeller causing mechanical damage.
Almost there! At the trailing side of a blade you can get such an under pressure that it creates a little steam bubble. That's when the pressure is locally so low that the boiling point reaches the ambient water temperature and little steam bubbles form. When those bubbles collapse they _directly_ impinge on the trailing surface of a blade. That's what causes cavitation erosion. (It can also occur in, say, gear oil pumps. So it's not just in water, or on the low pressure side of blades. It can also happen where gear teeth in fluid separate.)
It's cavitation burns you're thinking of. The supersonic implosion of the bubbles erode the surface. Happens to propellers on powerboats sometimes as well.
The Mantis Shrimp utilizes the Cavitation/Implosion phenomena to unleash a deadly blow with its front appendages. The cavitation bubbles formed and then popped release a shockwave that can crack mollusks shells, break glass, and, apparently damage dynamometer torque absorber components.
Reminds me of the Hydrostatic water brakes we used way back in the days of me running a drilling rig here in Okla. Those things could hold back nearly 100,000 lbs or more from falling thru the rig floor when going in the hole. "Memories". LOL
Cavitation will only occur in the absorber if not enough suction pressure (feed water pressure) is maintained on it. You must keep the water in a liquid state as you add HP (heat) to it. As the absorber temp rises the supply pressure needs to rise and stay above the boiling point of the fluid. The minimum flow required can be determined by...........HP x 5.5 divided by the Allowable Temp Rise of the fluid.
Didn't they say they had plumbed compressed air into the absorber? Bubble implosion associated with cavitation is typical of a poor suction condition resulting in vaporization, but the independent introduction of air could induce the same result once it reaches the high pressure zones of the absorber.
cavitation bubbles can produce so much energy when they collapse that sometimes it emits flashes of light, called sonoluminescence, so of course it'll erode metals.
Steve is the type of guy you want working and building your shit. It doesn't matter what he's doing his brain is just churning data and info. Him hypothesizing with the dyno guy was fun to listen to. Crazy knowledge and you can tell he just loves to figure out and know exactly how each little thing works.
I recognize that guy from across the pond. Since I made the switch to Your Dyno, ive had zero issues from my dynocom dyno that was broke down more than it wasn't.
Just an observation from one tradesman to another. I've been working with PVC for over 25 years. The swept tee at the bottom of the pipe is meant for drainage applications where there is no water pressure. The glue sockets are halve the depth of a schedule 40 fitting meant for pressure. That is defiantly the weakest point of your setup. PVC glue is supper strong it's aloud to cure, but that Tee is not meant for pressure, the plastic isn't as thick. I'd keep an eye out for cracks.
The amount of technical information in Steve Morris videos is wonderful. I love that you always are pushing forward, trying to make everything as perfect as possible. Keep up the grind Steve, your work ethic and technical knowledge is second to none, and the end product shows exactly that.
"Slow sweep" Words i never thought id hear on the morris channel. Hallelujah. Im proud of u doing all this. Max love from a long time watcher, complainer and enjoy-er of your channel.
Alan's Monte Is an absolute monster And super super clean I'd hate to say what my 1st car was .....a 500 dollar RX3 with a rotary Yeah I beat it like a rented mule
We had that problem with water ring vacuum pumps. The end plates would get scalded from cavitation that by outgassing of the water that created bubbles that would cut into the end plates and rotors. We installed water vapor gas eliminators on the top of the end-plates, and it eliminated the problem. By allowing small amounts of air into the end-plates it passed the bubbles through and out the exhaust side of the pump.
The big block that was in my 68 Camaro was out of a 72 SE Monte... Very cool car. I like em. The 402 they came with was only a 2 bolt main but it took a nice beefy cam and heads, and also took a small shot on the bottle. Made wheel stands possible on a 10" Bias Ply back in the day.
Tuning a PID, is why we joke about that control loop as Pain Inflicting Device. We still use a Schenk dyno with electric motors to load testing of inverters. That new dyno of yours is awesome, nice work there.
Its hard to have a single dyno cover a huge power range. An eddy current large enough to absorb that kind of power would be huge, and it would have so much inertia start ups and shut downs would be brutal. And as you can see, a water brake designed to absorb several thousand horsepower, does not flow enough water to stay cool with engines that create "low" torque. You will know when the water in the absorber turns to steam... steam doesnt hold back any power... instant rev limiter. Also, bi-directional dynos are very commonplace in automotive engine development. First shift runs the engine on one side, second shift runs the engine on the other side... minimal downtime. Andddd, Alan's car is amazing!
The brake is just a simple pump. It will only boil the water if there isn't enough pressure on the water to kept it in the fluid state. Nothing wrong with the water getting hot (very hot) if enough pressure is maintained on the fluid to keep it in a fluid state (no boiling) so long as the temp is within the limits of the absorber. Refer to a publication called 'Cameron Hydraulics' to understand the pressure / tempreture curve required to keep the water in a liquid state at any tempreture or pressure.
Super cool seeing the inside details of what it takes to be the best!! We know it’s time and money, first!!! But always enjoy see the details. Great video as always!!! From SME. My local hero!!
The pitting that Steve is talking about is when micro bubbles form on the vanes, and when they collapse they create an ultrasonic shockwave that hits the metal so hard it begins to erode
God you never see them, but one of my all time favorite Chevy's, the 70 or 72 Monte Carlo(negative on the 71, 72 is favorite appearance wise, even though it couldn't be had with the 4spd)....a guy down the street from me when I was 13 through 17 had a gorgeous dark green, black vinyl roof, black cloth bucket, 71 Monte Carlo with the 396 Big Block ("400/402" still the damn 396 🙄😤) with a 4spd and rallies....it looked so good, I loved that thing, even if it wasn't a 72 😅
SME can now dyno food grade motors with their new unit, LOL! Those valves look like ones we used while I worked at a breakfast bar manufacturing plant.
I have literature from the early 70s where Clayton recommended buying an absorber with dual inputs so in the future when engines got even more powerful you could add another absorber to handle the power. They are rated 2500ftlbs individual or 5000ft-lbs in tandem. They are awesome for steady state because they used closed water in the absorbers so the torque load can be held constant. They also use air pressure thru the vent to add dyno load as it is easier to do 1% increase in torque with air than trying to get an ounce or 2 of water into the brake
So cool! Was anyone watching upstairs where the tank & pumps are to see what’s going on? It doesn’t seem like it’s getting enough supply, which I know you have huge tanks & pumps? Also what was the RPM #? Next to the load dial doing? Big RPM dial said 7500, number next to load percentage dial said 8355? We had issues with an old superflow years back! We had water restrictions because of the iron in the water up here! We used some clear lines to find issues! Good luck man! You don’t need anymore issues! It was nice to see it run 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻! You sure put a whoopin on the ol mule 🫏🫏🫏🫏😜😜😜😜! Making Steam 😜😜😜😜!
Love my your dyno stuff, works great on my 902 dyno, Question though, why not use the servo valve on the outlet side, after plumbing in adequate volume capacity, and put a variable static valve on the intake side to control the servo percentage on starting the sweep, at say 70-90%, thus keeping water pressure in the brake, and maybe keep the cavitation down a little. Just a thought. Jostien is a great guy, his customer service is second to none. Enjoy your channel, I don't know how you don't burn yourself out...lol!!
@@steveletson6616 TBH the yourdyno guys have been around for ages. Steve has used Yourdyno ( DAQ and valves for a long time on the big engines. This absorber is a brand new concept and is under going testing (what you see here). It is not yet a consumer product. I have no doubt it will progress to the same point the control valve has (one of the best available anywhere). This kind of gear isn't developed overnight and its also extremely cheap compared to other offerings, i think pricing (when i enquired for my own shop) was around 14k for a full conversion with a billet absorber (when released) compared to 30k plus for other manufacturers. For some perspective many US / Australian companies charge 20k just for the software.. .no hardware.
@@steveletson6616 well they might not be used to bigger engins being dynoed but its normal to have some teething problems when installing a new system like he said a larger water exhaust and some minor things should fix it time will tell if steve is happy
Alan’s car is so dang good! I love that thing, so clean, so put together, and a beast, ridiculously beautiful car! What if you chilled the absorber? Like an MRI machine?
inertial style dyno vs load bearing dyno, there's also the Engine Dyno (in inertial vs load bearing), or the Chassis dyno, not to mention the hub dyno or the roller dyno. I'm not exact here, but I think the most accurate that I've enountered with the engine in the chassis was the 'mustang dyno' where the dyno puts the car under load of some type, which reduces the actual HP, and TQ level output. Dynojet or dynopack whateve they call it isn't under installed chassis load so its numbers are considerably higher, and likely higher to some degree. When the car is under load, it really comes down to the driver and the conditions at hand. If the card puts out too much HP, it loses traction, and loses the race if it can't get traction before the other driver does. If its perfect conditions, the track is sticky, and humidity is low - you can get very solid numbers on the track - that match the exact numbers on the dyno, but the dyno numbers never translate to skills of the driver - if the driver can't drive... they ain't gonna put the power to the track.... and probably blow up a few things in the process of proving otherwise!
i was watching a video about the USS New Jersey they explained the cavitation damage on the propellers they said when the bubbles pop near on the prop they damage the props
