Thanks for your videos! As a recent old school Volvo owner, they have taken away the headache of chasing gremlins and you offer easy how to solutions. Literally saved me hours of troubleshooting
This is a great tutorial and, yes, this only took about 15 minutes to replace!! A couple of test runs and no electric demons yet for our '98 v90! An additional tip putting everything back together: I removed the panel beneath the steering column and that helped sandwich the top and bottom of the cover back together.
Robert DIY, I think your video just helped me correctly diagnose the strange electrical issues I've been having for the last 2 months with my 2001 Volvo S80 T6. I posted some videos on my channel for help diagnosing, however, after watching your video I purchased a new ignition switch and will install it tomorrow. Hopefully, this will solve the electrical problems. I'll report afterwards on the results. Thank you very much!
Robert, Thanks for your videos, I always check you first when I have a problem. My 98 V90 has been acting out. When I turn the key to start, the power just shuts off, completely dead. Will not come back on. I will change out the ignition switch unless you have a better idea. Thanks
Power to what shuts off? Only a couple of items are powered when you put the key to start. The starter, fuel pump, spark items, injectors and whatever else is needed to START the car. Power is shut off of everything else
@@RobertDIY True, when I turn the key to start, dash, radio all go dead as it should but it doesnt crank. When I return the key to the on position, power is not restored, dash radio etc. Like the battery has been disconnected.. When this first started the power would return sometime later. Now it is completely dead and has not returned. Cannot move the shifter either. Checked the main fuse block, starter relay, battery connections, all looks good
I recently had to call AAA to "tow" my Volvo V90 wagon about 20 feet total up the driveway. It wouldn't come out of Park. This is one of the issues which led me to retire the car while I saved up enough money to have a whole new engine installed. I'd already paid hundreds of dollars to have the interior electrical something-or-other replaced underneath the gearshift cover. The car also had a number of mystery oil leaks, which led to severe stains everywhere. That involved a half dozen mechanic visits, $$$$$. After several months just sitting, it did start right up once we jumped it with a good battery - but it wouldn't come out of Park so there was no choice, I had to call for a tow truck. Many years ago, I stopped buying Volvos because they were service lemons - people don't fix them well and they DO need a lot of repairs. I don't consider them very reliable cars. I had a Nissan minitruck for 20 years and never had one major repair until someone had a minor fender bender accident with it. That's reliability. I sure hope you can help me keep this Volvo going.
What kind of Volvo do you have now? Sorry to read that you had so many issues with the V90, that is one of my all time favorite cars. If I could, I would purchase one tomorrow. The white block is not the best motor when compared to the older RED blocks, but I can live with them.
Hey Robert. Love these video's. I have a 1997 S90 and I thought I ran out of gas. Well I haven't been able to get started since. I hear the pump, I change the regulator because it was flooded, checked the fuse. Sir, can you tell me what I'm missing. It wants to crank but doesn't, so spark and gas I have.
Great video Robert. Thank you. I have had deteriorating problems with my ignition switch on my 1998 S90. The headlights would not come on three days ago. I tried the fuses, and they were ok. I was told that the headlight switch was most likely the problem. I bought a new OEM Volvo switch, but I do not know how to install it. After viewing your video, I think I would be better off replacing the ignition. Any thoughts? Thank you for your time and efforts. Great video.
marctoddio1 If you turn the key back a little after starting the car and it works, it's the ignition switch. The ignition switch simply pulls out, or you can push it out from the back. - Volvo Electrical Issues, bad ignition switch, S70, 850, 960, S90 - Auto Repair Series
I assume you would have the same sort of symptoms with an 850 ignition switch going out correct? By the way man your videos are awesome I thank you so much for posting them. You have helped me greatly ever since I got my first volvo.
Hey Robert. Do you think this could be the problem with my Volvo 960? It doesn't get any power and the battery terminals seem to be shorted because they don't have a voltage between them just resistance.
Hey Robert I love your videos and it has been very helpful to me. I just bought a 2000 Volvo XC70 and I was wondering if you had any experience with the indicator lights. Like if you turn it to one side it will blink one side and the other side blinks faintly as well.
Thanks for the video I just got a 1998 s90 and will not turn over not even a click lights on the dash come on but thats it. Im wondering will this solve my problem thanks
Thanks for the video Robert, also just got my Antenna mast so I plan on doing that soon. A somewhat off topic question tho, my int and ext lights dim when I either first put on the heat fan, abs kicks in or roll the windows up. Just replaced my battery and checked the alternator throughout the batt while car was running and I had normal readings. Let me know what you think and thanks for your time I greatly appreciate it.
Will a failing ignition switch also cause car to stall? It comes right back on when I remove the key.. also had random issues with turn signals. Volvo 940 ps if you are doing any tours again you are welcome any time in Arizona, Right near Phoenix. Thanks Robert
Hello Robert. Thanks for your videos. If I purchase a new ignition switch tumbler, will it work with my existing key? I have this exact problem with my 1997 Volvo 960 wagon. Please let me know when you can. Thank you!!
Hi Robert, I have a 960 from 1992 and the key does not rotate when I put it in the switch, also when I have had a long time with the car on with the air conditioning, the car turns off. What problem could it be?
Hello again, Robert. Great video! After 400,000+ miles I'm having to replace my 96 850 2.4L engine. Do you think it would be wise to go ahead and replace my transmission as well?
hi Robert, thank you for your video. I own a 96 volvo 850 gle. The battery is new and the alternator is working fine. The other day while driving all of the keyboard lights turned on and slowly began to glow weaker than normal. Sudenly the engine stopped and there was no way to turn on the engine again, the starter do not work. Ten minutes later the starter work, the engine start, and afer one kilometer, the engine turn off again. Do you know the possible causes? regards
Hi Robert.I have the headlight switch already.No returns on electrical. So how does one get that part in anyhow? There is fake wood trim around it on the outside and if I drop the knee cover, there is a hugemetal guardin place that I cannot get around. Do I remove the fuse panel to get at the switch from behind? Pretty frustrated and scraped upbythis point. I still intend on changing out the ignition switch. Thank you.
marctoddio1 Two ways to do it, it simply pulls out. Pull the knob while rocking it and the tabs will release. Or you can pull the switch next to it and push it out from the back.
I have a 2001 Volvo s80 it cranks over but don't start I have power to the fuse box under the hood but when I put it on to the on position no power to it what can I do to fix it
I need to replace my whole tumbler ignition assembly on my 1998 V70 and it has break off bolts from the factory after installing and torquing the mounting bolts, the tops snap off and leave you with a round 1/2 moon with no torx or phillips head to remove the screws to drop out the assembly off the column. Do you have a video for this problem Robert ?
crank rev hi did you replace your ignition switch? I have lost my keys and fob, can I replace the whole unit with a different unit and keys to get going again? 2005 v70
Robert, gear shifter have to use bypass, no lights, turn signals, no windows changed the ignition cylinder like u suggested everything remains the same...any other suggestions? tks
Where did you get the switch from? Check the wires going to the switch real good to make sure power is getting to it. Well, I guess it is or the car would not start. I would get a OEM Volvo switch and try it.
Hey Robert I have a 04 v70 with all the symptoms of a bad ignition switch, went to the junkyard and replaced it, still no good. I went online and they are about 300 brand new because of the recall. Before I actually spend the 300 I was just curious as to what else it could be. Really can't afford to drop 300 and not be able to return the part due to it being electrical. I appreciate your advice
Hi Robert DIY, Is one of the symptoms of a problem with the ignition switch the key spinning all the way around? This is happening with my daughter's 98 V70. Thanks for the videos!
having a no crank issue: battery is good(tryed jumping the car), pump primes, all my lights work, radio, windows ,fan, no indicator lights except for seat belt and abs lights no check engine or others, i tried shifting the gear leveler from P to L like 20 times and but key at off then try to start it but no crank, the lights dime like they usually do when it starts up. Any ideas? Starter? Fuse? Pnp switch? why aren't my indicator lights coming on in the dash? i need help do you think its the ignition switch? i tought of the starter but since theirs no warning lights coming on i suspect something electrical....
+Robert DIY 48 hours i parked it at night next day wouldnt start. I can't roll it over manually it's an auto '93 960. I hear my brake light switch clicking so shes good, never had bad leveler position issue before, doesnt start in P or N. Checked y fuse with my eye but seemed fined ill test them with a test light a friend is bringing over tonight. Even if all the indicator lights dont lit up in the dash as usual i tought of pulling the codes out... i have none stored exept for B2 1-2-2 wich i think is a code for the cruise and it's normal, anyhow i realized that the A3 and B6 would blink once when i press to ask to read the code but after that nothing i was not reading me 1-1-1 or anytime 0 blink. i'm bad with wiring but checked wires under the diasnostic box and the harness plug near it all seems fine, my battery cables look good the positive on seems well connected but the rubber covering the side of it is weared out a bit but contact seems good, as seems like it's getting battery power. I tried putting a negative cable from my negative battery to a ground on the engine near the power steering where i guess they hang th engine from looks like a hook but nothing. Thanks for your time
+Red Liner So checked fuse in the panel on the left on the steering i have fuse 3,4,8,9,10 and 30 that where not lighting up my test light so i tried to put a 5A that was working instead of where a 5A was not and not working so put her back where she waas working to see if she was bad to but know shes good at the older location she was... And also i tried to run another OBD1 diagnostic but now my OBD1 port does not flash at all when i depress the bouton the light doesnt come on at all and it was working fine this afternoon. I just disconnected my battery gonna leave it like that for an hour and plug it back to see if it changes anything.
+Red Liner Rolling the engine over manually is putting a tool on the crank/harmonic balancer bold and trying to turn it clockwise to make sure the engine is not locked up. My guess is that either the alarm is set or the PNP switch as gone bad.
Hi Robert, love your videos. I also have a 1998 S90, and I need to swap out the ECU (in addition to the ignition switch :) ). Where is that located? Thank you!
Hi Robert, I have a 2003 S40, I have had intermittent starting issues ever since owning vehicle, I did an overhaul of the PNP switch, was immaculate but cleaned it up and put it back in and that seemed to solve the issue. But now I am having additional issues, never been stalled because I have always been able to get it going but now I have excessive lights on my dash. Battery, wipers,cel etc. I am going to change out my ignition switch, is there any reprogramming for immobilizer that has to be done afterwards? Thanks alot sorry if it was long winded.
I am pretty sure my alternator is strong, my battery has a full charge and I can disconnect both cables and car continues to run. I put in the switch and no problems there. I have no excessive lights anymore. What I do have is an occasional vehicle that does not start. I am pretty sure 90% at least that it has something to do with the immobilizer. Currently I have the steering column shroud off and I have the chip inserted in a dummy key fob. It almost always starts with the FOB directly under the key cylinder. Occasionally it has been temperamental. I am not sure if the immobilizer is resetting or needs to be reset. I have tried multiple times with unlocking and locking 5 times. I really do not think it is my starter, Wish the signal was amplified from the chip. I have driven the car like this for almost two years but lately it seems to be happening more frequent and I plan on my wife using this car while I am out of town so I need to get it reliable. Thanks for any ideas?
Robert, My battery wont keep a charge, I've changed the alternator/voltage regulator. Tested the system and it indicates that everything works with proper amperage, etc. Cavet...the battery still drains...replaced a ground wire and cleaned the ground contacts that are at the base of the engine (1996 960 Volvo wagon) and the one that is next to the battery that bolts to the frame and well as the one at the back of the engine that connects to the body. I then saw your ignition switch video...possible issue there ? Thank you for your videos, they helped me change the alternator when it went out :) Franz Antoni
+uberfliege You have a parasitic battery drain. Something is not properly turning off and is draining the battery with the car off. You have to figure out what is doing that.
I have a 2003 Volvo S40. The ignition turns to the II position but will not turn to the III position. I called a neighborhood mechanic and he wants to replace the ignition switch...but has to get a price on the part. It appears that you came in from the opposite side of the steering column to remove the device where the key inserts into. Do you think this will fix my problem?
Don Williams No, You likely have a problem with the actual ignition lock cylinder. You can pull that switch and see if the key turns after that. If not, there may be a broken piece in the column, preventing you from turning the key all the way. I recently seen a post on Matthews Volvo site explaining an issue with a S70, where the guy took the collar off the steering wheel, cut a small plate open and let a piece of metal fall to the floor, which fixed his issue.
Hi Robert DIY, I have a 98 V70 (tryed jumping the car) When I try to star the car came out a bit of smoke by around the Guide now the car not turn on and whenever I put the swich melt the fuse of ign swich power train contact syst transmiss ..Can you give me advice?. tnks
Hello Robert love your videos, I got a 97 Volvo 960 with the same issue, but just recently most of the brake lights stopped working. All the brake lights on the trunk as well as the center window brake light (do not work) but the outer ones do (thankfully). I checked the stop lamp fuses on the side of the driver side dash (there fine), wondering if there is another fuse/ relay that these brake lights use I don't know about, or will the ignition switch cause only some section of the lights to go out. Thanks brother
Hi Robert i have a 1982 Volvo 244 that cranks but won't start changed ignition module, computer, fuel pump relay, plugs and wires, ignition coil and none of this worked help please
Hi Robert, I'm driving about 5k miles a year. How often should I change engine oil? I drive short distances couple miles a day. And once in a year - far journey for vacation. What do you suggest in this case?
I would suggest you have someone drive the car on the freeway at least once or twice per month for about 30 miles. Get motor warmed up to full temperature and get those valves spun around. If it were me, I would replace it once per year. And be sure to use a Volvo or Mann filter.
Hi Robert. Thank for the advice. I suppose I have to visit my mother in law more often then I do now :-). As You may not remember I had some problems wit P0340, P0365, P0302 misfiring and camshaft position sensors problems. I replaced spark plugs, the old ones were really worn. I also bought original GM camshaft position sensors, used ones from ebay. And that two things fixed all my problems. Thanks for your help. Now I will fight with brake discs and pads, because of some vibrations during breaking when running at 120km/h speed.
Vibration during braking means you need to have your rotors turned or replaced. Brake pad and rotor replacement, front and some rear. Volvo, BMW, Jaguar, etc. - Auto Repair Series
Jesus Matos It can but not often. - Car will not start trouble shooting guide, wont crank, wont turn over, etc. - Auto Repair Series - Starting or charging issues, may be a bad battery cable or connection - Auto Repair Series
Hi Robert, I hope you are well. I kept my 1998 V90 in the garage over winter without starting it until last week (mid April). Now sometimes it will not start. A lamp connected across the starter solenoid shows no juice is getting there. Then after several attempts, it will start fine (and the across the starter solenoid lights up). I am guessing the problem is either the ignition switch or the start inhibitor switch in the automatic gearbox. Any suggestions how to pin down the problem without buying an ignition switch to try? Regards, Martin
Ah, excellent question. I'll dig out my old laptop with the OBD software and hope I can remember its password. May take a few days until I'm back home. I have the impression that the start system works when the car is warm (after being in the sun) but does not work 1st thing in the morning when the car is still cold. I ordered an ignition switch from Germany. It should be here by Thursday, so we'll see if that does the trick.
Thank you. I will watch it carefully this evening. My OBD2 cable + VOL-FCR software found no fault codes. Sometimes (usually when it is warm and sunny), juice gets to the starter solenoid and the car will start. Other times (usually 1st thing in the morning when it's cool) no juice gets to the starter solenoid. Looking at the 1997 960 manual, the juice follows the path: - battery - ign switch - anti theft relay - starter solenoid relay - transmission start-inhibition switch - starter solenoid. I'm going to pull out the starter solenoid relay and see if the juice gets to its contacts. If yes, then the fault is in the transmission switch. If no, then the fault is in the ign switch or anti theft relay. But intermittent faults are always a pain to troubleshoot.
On the 1998 V90, the juice follows a path a bit different from the 1997 960 (the current from the relay coil goes via the transmission start-inhibition switch, not the juice for the solenoid). [I added that so that nobody would be mislead by what I wrote above] The fault seems to have disappeared for the time being. Always frustrating trying to solve intermittent problems.
It's a 2001 Lexus GS300. When I take out the key everything initially turns off , but when I return 20 minutes later the stereo is on and radio is playing .
Probably something in the door latch. When the door is opened, it is suppose to shut the system down. Post the issue on the Lexus forum and see what they say.
