I'll post part 2 as soon as there are 10k views or 1k likes, whichever comes first. Thanks everyone! SD Premium members do not need to wait. You can find this series in my Chapter 22 "No Spark Diagnostics" playlist www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html
Scanner Danner isn't just a great tech and teacher, he has a great personality as evidenced by the chemistry with his students. And this video is proof.
This was very useful video anyway. It reveals the conception of switching negative branches of circuitry, while positive is shared. The same is switching on the steering horn when negative branch gets connected with the car body which respectively gets connected with negative pole of the battery, thus circuit gets closed.
I’m drilling’ down on this topic and I’m finding gold🔑 in them there videos ! Thanks mate !! Indeed in this video transistor operation & computer control to it is marvellously taught . AND demonstrates with the LED test light !! So cool !! Very much appreciated mate ! 🙌🏼
Thank you so much for this video as I am trying to learn all of this it helps me so much especially when you do it and I see it or when you can draw it and I understand what you're talking about love your videos love your teachings you are the man
Really appreciate you !! You the best man. Been watching your videos for almost 3yrs now.. Never really comment.. but you are great at what you do. Always learn something new from you. Will be buying your book soon! So much knowledge 🙌
Happy Christmas 🎄 Sir ScannerDanner My teacher Sir ScannerDanner KNOWLEDGEABLE Sir ScannerDanner Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. God has bless you thank you Love part one can't wait for part two KNOWLEDGEABLE Sir ScannerDanner From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
even if i am a premium member, And by the way is worth tons more than your monthly subsciption, i always enjoy revisiting those classics!!! Stay safe my friend and god bless you and your familly!
The question about making the spark stronger by energizing the coil longer was a very good question! Also, the test to manually try and fire the coil was pretty cool and basically shows that we are missing a control. Either broken wire or cooked ECM. I'm currently at 19:29, so I let's see which one it is going to be. Thanks for posting some Euro stuff, Paul! As someone with an Audi myself, this may come in handy at one point.
Thank you! It's super affordable at $11 a month. Looking forward to seeing you there and answering your questions www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html
Both parts are up on my website. So if you're a premium member, you don't need to wait 😉 But I'll have part 2 up here very soon. Before next Sat is my hope
In the transistor circuit there is no emitter resistor to ground so the pulse has to be .7 volts which is the forward bias however the collector emitter is a circuit means that the transistor isn't saturated and has zero volts so the whole voltage is across the coil load that doesn't make sense there has to be a resistor in the emitter circuit to ground something is missing in the in the configuration in the collector circuit you can't have full voltage across the load coil and the saturate the transistor from collector to emitter
100% there is more to this circuit than what I'm showing. There is current limiting on these coil circuits and I'm not showing or talking about any of that. Just the basics. Thanks!
Scanner danner teaches teachers 😄. Excellent video. I have an issue with a 96 Chevy express converted to mfi years ago. Right now i installed a new mfi again. New CPS, timing chain, spark plug wires, distributor came with cap and rotor installed like this, at TDC compression stroke cyl1 distributor dimple aligned with mark on distributor body and rotor fell in engine facing cyl1 and the reference mark on the distributor housing, coil is two months old(not acdelco) ecm was changed in may of this year, fuel filter, MAF. New O2 sensors(4) new exhaust with cat converter, fuel psi reads 60psi key open i was told it should start… only thing not replaced is fuel pump. I cant find what the fuel pressure should be since this was upgraded to mfi from cfi. I rear cfi is 61-66psi and mfi should be less? It cranks and sounds like it wants to start but nothing… someone anyone…? It briefly started the other after unplugging the ecm but doesnt start now. Ty
you sound like you are in deep my friend and the problem with all of these "new" parts is that the aftermarket is FULL OF JUNK NEW PARTS especially on older cars and trucks. Step 1 is to find out what you are missing. If you spray a fuel source into the intake, does it start?
@@ScannerDanner hey how are you happy holidays! I found the issue and after all this, turned out the spark plugs were bad. Back in may of this year the MAP sensor grommet went bad and the engine smoked out the tail pipe super bad so the plugs got fouled up. Not sure why the engine ran for about 2000 miles and no issues. I put in fresh plugs and its running beautiful!!! Thank you always pal, youre such a good automotive tech!
I have a few we are working on. One is an EEProm write on a module brought to us by my friend Robert Pleasanton. I should have that one done this week.
@@mikesabin8568 well... Led test light is what 10 bucks? Vs $100+ for a power probe? Overkill may have been the wrong term though. By all means if you have one it would be silly not to use it
@@colestowing8695 I understand the difference in price. I am not advocating someone buy a hook for the test… I already have a hook for many purposes im asking a simple question if the application can be used so i dont have to also get an led light
Just check to verify the maximum current your Power probe puts out in that mode. The standard fuse for the older power probe is 10A, so if something goes wrong or if a wire is internally shorted to ground, the old PP2 would backfeed the PCM with 10A. When I use the power probe in this situation I like to add a safety resistance in the circuit to put a cap on maximal current. That could be as simple as using the power probe and the LED light in series. The great advantage of the LED is not only the voltage drop, it also caps maximum current to the milliamp range. A benchtop power supply would be better, where you not only dial in voltage, you also cap maximum current.
So...if that was the cylinder 1/6 coil that you manually got to fire -from there I assume you'd just do a quick check on circuit integrity back to the ecm? Did the car wind up needing a computer? (edit)-actually I guess theoretically the next step would to look for control. (Either a scope or possibly even a multimeter set for ac?)🤔
Is the control wire from the pcm just a pulsed ground? Do all coils have transistors? For example, my old 4.0 Jeep only has two wires. Switched + and a control wire from the PCM.
It is a pulsed positive on this one (base circuit control). To answer your second question, if it is just a two wire coil, the driver for the coil is inside of the ECM not the coil itself like a 3 or 4 wire
The Topdon Phoenix Lite would be a good choice. It is a full function bi-directional scan tool with enhanced data for less than $900 You can find it here www.aeswave.com/scannerdanner-c512/ I earn affiliate revenue when you shop here but we've created a grant with those funds and I'd be more than happy to share on with you. Email me at support@scannerdanner.com and attach a screenshot of my comment and I'll set you up. This grant can go towards anything at AESwave.com I always love to help those starting out.
The problem with that approach is when you have a multiple problem car (which most are by the time the customer brings it to you). I've always attacked the customer complaint/symptoms first and then try to match the code with that problem. This Audi could have had a freeze frame capture for the O2 or airpump and if that was the case, you'd have missed the main issue. Make sense? But if it works for you, it's not wrong!
The ASE test bank of questions is probably the most well written questions I've ever seen. You absolutely can't fake your way through them. I've been and ASE master tech for over 25 years and have always been proud of that. However, I've known ASE master techs who couldn't fix a sandwich so it still goes both ways.
@@ScannerDanner not the correct video to comment on but.. I want to inform you that my AC are fixed now :) A shop replaced the clutch that I provided. The whole shebang. They said that my old coil was buzzing and trying to engage but hadn't enough power for that. I measured the coil after when I got home. 1.77 Mega ohm :) should be 2-5 ohm :) They say it works now. I haven't tried since clutch/compressor won't engage under 0 degree Celsius :) we have around -14 Celsius here now :) so I have to wait until spring/summer to see if I got some cool temperatures :) So glad its finally fixed!
![Ignition System Testing - Primary Current [Audi A6 part 1 of 2]](/img/logo.svg){kind=logo}
