Just a reminder for those not familiar with older equipment that does not have modern electronic ignition systems. Don't leave the ignition switch in the on position for any more than a few seconds if the engine is not running or being turned by the starter. The ignition points in the distributor will be destroyed and the engine will not start. If the engine stalls or fails to start remember to turn the ignition switch off until you attempt to restart it. Good looking tractors you have there, thanks for the video.
Safety hat 'on'. 15:00. Just to expand. You WANT to use the flip-lever brake lock when you're in higher gear just driving down the road. The Cubs don't go very fast (I think they top out at around 7-mph), but at higher speeds you do NOT want to accidentally brake one of the wheels separately. Turn you right over. So ALWAYS engage the lever unless you're purposefully in the fields at lower speeds and you want to make tighter turns using the separate brakes. Safety hat 'off'......😊
this size tractor, keeps the farmer more connected to the earth, the only thing that got us to this point in our civilization, we need to go back to nature , back to smaller farms, and more healthy and wholesome foods , at the time when people were actually able to get by and enjoyed their communities
I learned to drive on our Cub when I was about 6 years old. Just basic moving it and minimal steering, but in about 3-4 years I could do just about everything. Dad wouldn't let me mow with the side sickle mower until I was older, but those were happy days.
The funniest thing about very old tractors is that you can find parts very easily. Look at the gas cap recall for a machine more than sixty years old. But a nightmare for a 5 years old fridge or washing machine. Thanks to these unknown employees, most of them dead now. These tractors are a testimonial toward them. You did very good guys !
You probably dont give a shit but does anybody know a trick to get back into an instagram account?? I was stupid forgot my account password. I appreciate any help you can give me!
@Maximiliano Erik thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm in the hacking process atm. Takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Brings back memories. Growing up in the 60s, my Dad had a 52 Cub. Belly mower, different type of cultivator set up, bottom plows that could be run in both directions plowing, sycle bar and larger draw bar. That 10 hp engine would (about) pull a two-ton bailer up one of the hills in the field.
Thanks for posting this overview. I just picked up my first Farmall Cub at a farm auction in Solsberry, Indiana this past weekend and found this very helpful.
It might be helpful to check out my Farmall Cub playlist, since you own one now. I made a couple videos that detail how to check the fluid in the rear-end and another video about the final drives. Thanks for watching. I'm glad you found this video helpful.
Quite a fewvyears ago, lol, I worked as a tractor and equipment mechanic for a local John Deere dealer. I had went on a service call to see why the customers JD tractor kept dying. Found drill shavings in the plastic fuel tank was plugging the pick up line, the factory did a poor job of cleaning when they drilled the fuel tank for the guage and pickup mounting. There was an old McCormick sitting under a big oak tree. I talked to the owner and he told me the farm all had been sitting there for 25+ years and if I wanted it just bring a trailer and get it. It was some time but I checked on it a couple weeks later and he apolizized as he had given it to his brother in law who worked at a boys farm in mississippi. They got the tractor running and working, it had the belly mounted bush hog cutter and it all worked. They used that tractor for years to mow the fields at the school. Made me glad someone that really needed it was able to make a good machine with it.. I aquired several tractors during my mechanicing days, lol. Those old 140 farm all tractors were really good little tractors....sure worked on a bunch of them over the years..even got to do full restoration on a couple..I loved doing restorations.
The gas tank cap is longer because it was a recall they had for some reason and they let farmers have a new longer cap compared to the original small one like your A had.
The taller fuel cap was a recall back then because the short ones did not vent rite, case ih still warranty that to this day, went there a few weeks ago for a new one and they gave me the tall one for free said it was a recall
I've got a 40 something Cub that belonged to my great grandfather to my grandfather. I converted it from 6 volts positive ground to 12 volts negative ground. I had the Starter button converted to post so I could wire in an ignition. I was tired of using the hand crank . I also had to change the magneto to a points distributor like yours has.It has a Sickle bar attached to the center and the PTO.
I have been operating one of these pretty much since it was new ,and amazing machine ,as to what all it can do slow by todays standard but it can do much more work than a three horse team at a much better pace One little thing ..it could be my daddy was just extra cautious and never wanted to waste a drop of fuel I was taught to ALWAYS shut off the fuel and run the fuel out of the carb and let it die ,so that does use a smidgen more fuel I was always told it would save preasure from being on the float and I have sure seen em sit and empty the tank while sitting Perhaps that is just a carry over from running older cars with gravity fuel like a Ford A
Running the carb dry also saves you from having to clean the varnish left behind when gas left in the carb evaporates. Not a problem on a tractor that sees frequent use but on something that mostly sits it's good practice to shut the fuel off and run the motor till it dies.
Cute little tractor I think sometimes it better than new one because less things go wrong with them and you don't need a computer to fix them the time you need a computing is to look up for parts
I learned a lot, thank you. Just looked at a ‘51 model today. Trading a car for it tomorrow. My 2020 Mahindra will have someone to keep her company lol.
Nice review of the Cub however you failed to mention the oil pressure gauge which should be checked after each start and occasionally during use. Very informative . I have owned 1947 Cub for over thirty years and love it.
I also have a 1949 farmall cub just like yours & runs like a sewing maching. Still have the original plow. It has a front blade & belly mower. I wud like it converted to 12volt. Thnx for a great video!
I made an extensive series of videos documenting the 12 volt conversion I did on this tractor. Go to my channel homepage and you will find the Playlist for this tractor. The 12 volt series is, I think, 6 videos long and covers EVERYTHING you will need to do.
Drove an MD (I think) diesel manure spreader in Putney VT. back in late '60;s. Wonder where that is now. Loved that thing. Started on gas then switched to diesel. Spreader was broken and instead of fixing it they gave us a yellow raincoat and you had plop plop all day! When you were done you came back to the barn all covered with manure and looked like the swamp thing
My grandpa had a 1961 cub and 1956 (?) 350 Diesel on his ranch in Northern California. The 350 was a cantankerous beast, the cub was the gem. Sadly he sold it after he retired. Looking to buy one of my own soon as a toy.
Really enjoy your video on the Farmall Cub.. I bought a 1964 model A Week Ago.. I'm going to look at it belly more this week since I'm going to use it as a mower.. thanks again I subscribe to your Channel..
The short caps I think don't vent enough and could pose risks to the operator when refueling a recently ran tractor. The taller caps have better venting and pose less of a risk. If you have the short cap, probably a good idea to let a tractor cool off for a half-hour to an hour before putting gas in.
I saw somewhere that the two holes in the floor just behind the clutch are actually "windows" you can look through to enhance the "cultivision" concept.
Alastor Be careful. Buying old tractors can be addicting. You start thinking you need a bigger model, then a smaller one, then some special model. Then something comes up right down the road that you don’t really want but it’s too good a deal to pass up. Then you need old implements to go with your tractors. It’s a deep, deep rabbit hole.
The ground engaging metal is referred to a sweep and those on your tractor are worn completely out. The size of the sweep is determined by the outside width of the wings on the sweep.
I have a 1950 cub .I just took off the bars that raise the cultivaters . I didn't know until now what they were for. I'm installing a sickle bar for the first time , and that lift system was in the way. I don't have cultivaters so I maybe selling the lift system .
You might want to hold onto any parts that you have for your tractor. You never know when you might need them in the future. These parts are getting harder to find all the time.
Crane & Rigging you might want to check my other cub videos for how to check the gear oil in the rearend and final drives. Might be worth looking at the oil while you are checking the tractor out.
Why is that? I always put the clutch pedal to the floor no matter what the equipment or motorcycle, thinking it's less drag on the starter. On my Farmall Super A I often start it on the crank when she's been settin' awhile thinking that the battery might be discharged and I never want a dead battery which will freeze in the Winter. .
Great little tractor for driving around a bit, but unfortunatly, the gear ratio from the 3rd is to slow that it isn't useful to drive longer distances on the road to tractor meetings. And I like the seating position, which is not in the middle, so you have your gear lever next to you and not between your legs which results a flat operation stand. Good Video man!
@@justtinkering6054 and you can still get a free one today for these old tractors. I just got my free replacement cap under the recall a few mo the ago.
Enjoyed your video. I have inherited this exact tractor. It's been sitting in a warehouse for decades and was driven in place when it was parked. Any recommendations beyond the walk through you did? I have new tires and tubes and a 6 volt battery ready to go. What kind of engine oil, wheel fluids, and transmission fluid for these old tractors?
30W engine oil. 80-90W gear oil in the trans. If it’s been sitting for decades, your gas tank is probably gonna need to be emptied and cleaned out. The carburetor will probably need cleaned as well. You might think about pulling the spark plugs and squirting some lubricant into the cylinders before trying to start it. Sitting that long, those cylinder walls will be dry and could use some lubrication before attempting to run it.
Thanks for making this video. My grandpa had a Farmall Cub, it was given to my mom, and her ex husband has restored it. My mom still owns it, and it will eventually be mine. It's been sitting for years and I itch to get it running again, it is in very good shape, there is hardly any rust. Only bad thing in shape on it it that there is no paint shine. The paint is good. I never realised there was fluids for the rear wheels, that surprised me. Now I have an urge to buy a new battery, buy all the oils, and some gas and try to start it up and get it used again. This video was really helpful, because I never knew what a lot of these parts did. I did not even notice that there was a pull switch and a nother thing you had to pull to start it. I'm subscribed! I just have one question. What gas does it take? (Original engine)
I am glad you enjoyed the video. I I'm also glad that you have the opportunity to own a piece of your family's history. I love hearing about tractors that stay in a family. As far as gas, I like running 93 octane in all my old tractors. I put fuel stabilizer in every can of gas as soon as I bring it home. Some old guys like to use 100% gasoline, no ethanol content. I have tried it and didn't like it.
I was wondering about the draw bar size as mine needs one . Ours came with a belly mower and I need to use it to pull round bales of hay with a tumble bug, What width fits it?Thanks for your informative video! I thoroughly enjoyed it!!
Thank you so much for this tour. I'm about to look at one for sale so it is helpful to approach this with some knowledge and confidence. Question 1: did you stay with the magneto after the 12V conversion or did you need to address this? Question 2: I might have some people driving this that aren't good with stiff clutches--can you describe the foot pressure necessary to disengage the clutch (push the pedal)? Thanks!
Tim O'Neal this tractor has a distributor, not a magneto. 12 volt conversion went well for this tractor. As far as describing the feel of the clutch, it had a smooth engagement. It was easy for a novice to drive. I’m sure there are some more aggressive clutches in some tractors, but this particular one was easy to drive.
7:58 Take that "short" cap off your Super A to your nearest IH dealer and exchange it for the tall cap. FREE OF CHARGE! Don't let them charge you for it. Many a building has been burnt down and tractor lost because of those short caps. Operator's would fill the gas tank up with a hot engine, the gas would slosh around and leak out the vent hole on the short cap and drip down onto the starter, etc... and start a fire. Big safety hazard. As such, IH agreed to exchange these short caps for a much improved tall cap for free. I would imagine there was likely a lawsuit forcing them to do this. These old Farmall's are a very good tractor and are under valued when compared to a new compact utility.
Bought a 1940 farmall today,,don't have any attachments at the moment,,first on my list is a belly mower L59 I think is the deck I need to geth;;:: ,where can I get a mower deck and attachments? Thanks for any advise or exper
First place I’d check is Craigslist. I just saw a Cub deck on Cincinnati Craigslist a couple weeks ago. Then join Farmall or Cub groups on Facebook. Local tractor swaps and shows are great places to meet other Farmall owners and make connections. Start asking around at shows and it won’t be long before “I know a guy that has just what your looking for.” If your in the southeastern Indiana area, there’s a little show at Ripley county fairgrounds that just started today. It runs through Saturday. It’s show season. Start going and asking folks. Most guys at shows love to talk tractors. You’ll find what your looking for pretty quick that way.
I'm thinking about buying one of these. I'm going to look at it tomorrow. It's a 1952 model. Are they reliable? Can they pull a trailer with a chord of firewood? Those are my biggest questions. I'm into the tiny house/off-grid/homesteading thing. I don't need a big tractor but I need something that can haul some lumber and firewood on a trailer. The one I'm looking at also has a 42" mower deck and already has a ball hitch. Love the video, btw.
Upgrade to 12 volt if it is still a 6 volt and reliability is second to none. It will pull a trailer of firewood no problem. The one in the video has cultivators. Cultivators are about the hardest thing these pull, since they are literally digging into the ground like anchors. Cub is a good little tractor. Parts are easy to find and you can work on it yourself. I just saw one sell yesterday for $1,800. It was absolutely beautiful condition. Ready to show, but it did not have any attachments. Hope this helps. Good luck.
Once you get them running, they are reliable. Mine is one year older than I am - 69 years old. They are susceptible to what I call "cascading system failures" having to do with the electrical.
Randall Tuura. I did a series of videos documenting the 12 volt conversion on this tractor. These old 6 volt systems are finicky. Voltage regulators and generators can be a real pain.
I was disappointed to find that my Cub was converted by a previous owner. But having experience with a '49 six volt positive ground Cub as a kid. I like the 12v negative ground with a distributor much better.
Dear Just Tinkering, I pulled out the spark plugs, then I cleaned them with 2+2 gum cutter, was it a good idea? Please let me know on email. Thank You!
my neibor owns one that is going to be mine someday although the starter doesn't work as well as most of the electronics and he taught me how to start it with a crank
Hey I stumbled apon this video after searching about cubs sesne I'm about ready to go pick one up. Other then the stuff in the video is there anything else I need to know or do once I get it? Mine is going to be a 1948 converted to 12v already but still has the amp meter in it. Also thanks for the great video very informative learned alot.
Check gear case fluid, making sure it is not leaking out the ends of the axles. The seals are notorious for going bad on Model A. I would think Cub would be about the same. Check BOTH final drive cases for fluid. They are independent of each other as well as the gear case, so make sure to check all 3. Then just check engine oil, coolant, and hydraulic fluid. All those fluids can add up pretty quickly. Because of that, some guys never change them. If you plan to keep it for a while, bite the bullet and change everything. I'm glad you liked the video.
@@justtinkering6054 thank you very much for all the information you have given. I'll definitely take the time and check and possibly change all the fluids. The manual should have all the capacities and types of fluid right? Also thank you for taking the time and commenting back appreciate it.
i am moving to the country and want to make food from my land. how can i buy one of these for what it is worth and all the attachments to grow food? as a newbee can you give me and my wife advice. we are older in age and this is something we are looking at for survival. thank you.
Keep an eye on farm auctions. Go to a tractor show or swap meet and start talking to people. Let them know what you are looking for. Tractor shows are a great place to network and find tractors, implements, and parts. Tractor people love to talk tractors. It’s usually pretty easy to find a friend of a friend who knows a guy with the thing you are looking for. Now these old farmers all have cell phones so they are even easier to get hold of.
Thank You for this video, We have a 1947 Farmall Cub. But we are experiencing a few issues. We need a new carburetor, any idea what single barrel carb is in there? Also we just ordered tires. We’re told 9-24 don’t exist anymore, does a 9.5-24 work on the rear? Thanks again
I have actually made videos that touch on both of your questions. As far as carburetor goes, Ebay is a great resource. In reference to the tire size, you won’t even notice that half inch. Check my video library for more information.
Just got mine today and it’s a bit rough although running...I noticed an oil leak coming from the main engine pulley in front...is that a major fix on one of these ?
Sorry, I see your question is 2 years old now. But crank seal replacement is not easy unbolt front end use heavy duty puller those pulleys can be really tight good luck friend!
G/day mate just inherited a 1947 farmall cub no starter motor (grank handle start) (bugger) need to know how to adjust governor.So question Where can I get some info? thanks regards Doug.
Could be a lot of things. First thing I'd check would be coil. Let the tractor warm up until it quits. Then pull off a plug wire or pull out a plug and see if you're still getting spark. If no spark, your coil is bad. Sometimes they work fine until they warm up.
Not to be a buttinski here but I had a problem with my oil pump needing primed and it would actually do the same thing. It would run for 20 or 30 minutes and stop. I found a procedure to prime the oil pump and solved the problem. I'm lucky I found the fix before it was too late. As it turned out, it doesn't seem like any damage occurred.
