Installing Bronze Valve Guides Without Machine Tools using the Lisle 59000 

I am a accomplished DYI’er. Of the gazillion videos I’ve watched on RU-vid, yours is one of the best. Thank you for your simplicity and to the point content. A great educational video. Kelvin

Great video, I worked in a automotive machine shop and to help with installing the guide we would put them in freezer to draw them up and they would go in very smoothly

fantastic totorial, a person could install new valave guides following your video, thank you sir.

Great instructional video!....I've been looking for seat and guide tools myself.....thanks much for all the tips.....

Great Video. I have that Set from Lisle but didnt know how to use it. Thank You very much from germany. 😊

I used to build engines for friends at work and my own for hobby restorations. I found someone selling a Quickway boring bar with tooling and Sioux valve and valve seat grinder - similar to equipment I used in a small shop in the early '70's - that they bought at a going out of business auction. You can get very respectable results from "old timey" tools if you take your time. I found specialty tools and even teflon valve seals at Goodson when necessary. Thanks for sharing this Lisle tool. My final sizing hone is from Lisle. A seat cutter set would be a great find for sure!

Thanks for doing this video, I've always wondered how this was done.

Another interesting and informative video. It is very well produced and helped me out allot!

Great video. Being able to repair anything will be incredibly valuable in the coming times. Heads and auto transmissions are the only things I consistently farm out, but I'm thinking I'll try my hand at this on a set of 302 heads I have. Thanks for sharing this.

Awesome video. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.

thank you from nw107hu london england.very well explained and demonstrated ..

Cutting the valve seats after the guide work is done is essential, sometimes it’s pretty damn close but most of the time it’s off and should be addressed with a seat cut to bring it back within spec. On professional equipment it’s more accurate but still there are times when you really need cut the seat. Keep on rockin

Well done Sir ! Thank you very much for sharing your tips.

fantastic video

I bought a Lisle 59000 just a few months ago, but haven't used it yet. I called Lisle to see if they had anything at all for it and the only thing the guy found was a operator's manual. It must have been the earliest version from back in 1976. I have seen three different "C" Clamp designs for this kit. The first was steel, 2nd was cast iron with no angled reinforcement ribs and the last and best is what you and I have. The last year Lisle had them listed in their catalog was 1991. So they started in 1976 (The Bicentennial year) until 1991. I cleaned up my manual (Like yours) and made a PDF of it and sent it Lisle in case they needed to send it out to anyone else and they would have the newest version. .......... My manual had an old type written page stapled to it where Lisle would sharpen dull cutters for $6.00. I asked Lisle if for some reason I needed to get something resharpened, could they still do it. He said for me to email a picture of the part that needs sharpened and he could then ask their in-house shop if they could or not. .......... All the machine shops are shutting down around me. The nearest good ones are at least 60 miles away. I got mine for the same reasons as you. One complete engine would pay for the tool. I also have both Lisle and UTI Valve Guide Knurlers and I too have been seeking a valve seat replacement. I found some old hand operated ones, but didn't trust them for my applications. .......... Many people don't realize that old tools still work and work good. Something as simple as balancing the reciprocating parts of an engine using a paint mixing scales. Cleaning parts using electrolysis or horse feed molasses. Resurface slight imperfections on Aluminum Heads by using the old body shop DA sander glue and glue large sheets of sand paper on a tempered glass shelf. Polishing cranks with a soft rope and crocus cloth, but crocus is history now, so I went to a Cam / Crank only grinder and they gave me some old polishing belts. .......... I'm not saying to go into business using these labor intensive methods, but if you're low income or have the time, there are a lot of things you can do yourself with very little. My biggest regret was not buying a Perfect Circle Piston Knurler when I had the chance. Those were variable pressure so if you only wanted a light mark on the skirts, then it could do it and many don't realize it creates a method of holding oil on the thrust sides of pistons. .......... Good video, but I searched months ago; Lisle 59000 and nothing came up, because it wasn't in the title.

To aid guide installation we had a purpose made drift for use with a hammer. Oil everything up and then put on a welding glove. The guide was put on an allen key and then the guide was frozen by LPG . The head was put into an oven at 200 deg C. It was a home oven as this was a small shop. The allen key was to jam into the gas bottle to release the gas. Put the guide on the mandrel and hammer it home really fast before it could heat up. The old guides were drilled to release the press then tapped for a thread on the spring side so a bolt could be threaded in. A drift was inserted from the seat side then drove the guides out by hitting against the bolt. We also did a lot of knurling and reaming as this is a great way to get motors working again and faster cheaper. Just found your videos and I do like the guide tool I want one now.

Wonderful video, thanks a lot.

That's all there is to it you say.....It takes steel haggars to perform those procedures with confidence! Good on ya man.

great informative video. thanks.

Hey, great info!

WOW, I never saw a kit like that. In the 60s I was a driver for a machine shop. Pick up an engine from a gas station at 10 AM. Have it back rebuilt by 3 PM. The gas station had it back in the car by 5PM for the customer. As I recall the shop would knurl the valve guides AND the pistons. Hot Tank ,Valve job, ring job, paint job , out the door.

Great video good job bud.

Great video

Great Video!

I've got both, the 59000 and 58000. I bought them years ago after waiting what seemed like forever for them to pop on ebay. Neither of mine had instructions, which were happily provided by an email from lisle. My drill is unfortunately broken about a half inch down the guide, NLA from lisle, so I'll call a tool shop someday and have them make me a replacement. It still worked well on the 351c heads I bought the kits for. Neat to see someone else with one and make a video with it.

,,,,,,,,,excellent presentation.....................thank you............

Like others have noted, you need to let your viewers know the seats need to be remachined or ground so they are aligned with the valve head.

That was extremely educational. Thank you.

Great video!!

Excellent!

THANKS FOR A GREAT VIDEO

Nice bud! Thank you!

the tutorial is very good. It seems to be a bit tight, usually, the guide is at nominal size and the valve stem is calibrated a bit undersize to provide the clearance, going so tight calls for valve sticking when the engine is driven hard, specially on the exhaust side.

Great job thanks

outstanding!

Dang, that Doctor Torque guy sounds pretty cool.

Thanks COOP the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA ...

If you have a propane engine it’s best to use bronze guides

Amazing

Piece of cake. I send mine out.

Great video. Nice to use old tools and do it the old way. One question though, you are going to port that head before you reinstall it aren't you? Those intake ports look hideous! I have never seen such a crappy short side on a head before. Just a basic clean up will gain massive improvement.

I have seen in some machining shops that they push a ball bearing steel ball throught the guide with the airhammer to finalize the valve guide inner diameter

Id be so nervous doing this. Damn.

100k views? Uh, you're welcome...

Did you ream the guides outside the head or once you have installed them?

I have a question about cutting seats I am just learning to rebuild heads and would like to know how to measure the seats to make sure I am buying the right seat cutters

Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge here. Very interesting to learn and if I never do the work least ill know what’s good or bad. I have a question though, is that bronze insert likely to melt during high speeds?

I think that guide cutter is suppose to cut in reverse direction IMO otherwise it's cutting on the back dull side. At least that's what it looks like from the video.

Yep I got two sets, one mine and one Dads but not saleing any machine stuff or tools

Great video, TYVM! That existing intake guide at 18:30 looks way off center. If you replace it this way, won't you replicate this error?

hello, is it possible to buy a kit like the one you got new? Or any way to drill heads to install guides the DIY way?

Great Vid. Where did the bronze guides come from?

Guys where can I find this tool in Pretoria

18:00 seems maybe easier to press the guide flush inside then cut off from the rocker side?

Thanks for the video. I appreciate the effort that the maker of the tooling put into the design, but you are using a worn guide to center the tool and that seem to trouble me. I know a good machinist in my area with a Serdi.

Magnificent description and post edits. You RoCk. There's nothing else to say accept "SUB" - Oh wait.. I was already subbed. Then I'll double sub!! :O) Cheers from So.CA.3rd House On the Left.

Nice video . Clear explanations . Question : If a new valve guide is pushed in after you drilled and reamed the old worn one out , then why don't you just push the old worn one out first ? Then you don't have to drill and ream it . Also , If the new valve guide shrinks in internal diameter because it is pushed in the head , and then afterwards needs to be drilled to the correct internal diameter to be able to receive the valve stem , then why don't you drill out the new valve guide before you push it in the head , thus avoiding the risk of jamming a drill or reamer in it when enlarging the internal diameter after pushing it in the head ?

Would freezing the guide make it slide in easier?

What does reaming achieve that would not be achieved with just a drill bit?

Hi. Have one of those but maybee need a new drill / reamer for it. Does anyone know where to get one? So far Lisle have not any answer for me.

if that hole was perfectly aligined you would not need that tool to take out the aliginement pin when you aligine the clamp.it's not aligned. but it may be close enough, and you should never move the clamp whel your reaming/boring the head. also see how the reamer/boring is wobbeling while your drilling?? the hole isant round now,nor is it inline. do not push on the drill it will pull through. but even with wonkey guides if there tight the seat can be reground inline with the right tools&right person. and be sure to oil the cutters shaft when shortining the guide. resharpen the cutter or flip the carbides over for new cutting serface. do not let the cutter bounce, thats what effes them up. you should also hone the guides after reaming.the reamer will not be a straight hole. and no a dingle beery hone will not make a round hole. and dont forget to do the valve job after ANY GUIDE WORK IS DONE NEVER BEFORE!!!!

Great tool, but it's hard to get anymore

Bronze valve guides, where are they available?

Where can I buy one of these tools?

One incorrect assumtion, the drill he used, he placed on 1, this is not speed button, Its torq, Simply drill will use either low torq or high torq, i would advice to use high torq, also than he complained about cutting, bit was not dull simply drill is in posittioon low torq so it wont cut as it should,

yes i dont trust machine shops they did not replace my valve guides had to do it my self all over again

Show the reaming please

I’m surprised that it looks like you cut the seats before you did the guide’s

Bonjour,je suis rectifieur,je vous assure qu’il y a beaucoup plus simple ? Pour changer les guides,1 extracteur à frapper pour le sortir,et le même extracteur à frapper pour pour le remettre en place

Do you even have any idea why guides are not counterbored off of seats or even a spring seat as an indicator? Lisle figured this out and discontinued the tool. As valve guides wear they become hourglass shaped. this shape is easy to see with a dial bore gauge. As this happens the seats Wear out of round. Cutting the seats before repairing guides cuts seats off improper indication (tilted or twisted) A tapered pilot dose not correct angle from hourglass shape it just binds off of 2 points of the hourglass providing a solid point for the cutting tool to mount. A solid point not a point square to the designed seat angle. Repairing guides must be done first. Guide counterboring (drilling) is indicated off of a specific degree or angle from the deck. Counterbore are cut after angle is set with bore being indicated off of guide center (usually found with a non tapered pilot and an air float table). Core drilling should be done dry without fluid, so chips do not collect in the flutes and score the bore . Reaming cast iron is also done dry for the same chip reason. Hardened guides can be reamed with a cutting fluid but never a paste lubricant. The whole idea is for chips to fall out of the hole as to not screw up the surface of the hole being counterbored. The lisle tool completely fails this very basic machining instruction. You did an excellent job of demonstrating how to use a (poorly executed tool idea) tool to perform a job that will all but guarantee a very short or failed repair life. I am sorry you have had a bad experience with your local machine shop This is not the normal. Quality fit and finish are expensive as is skill and knowledge. All you have to do is take one out of the picture to have a poor outcome.

Why not just take the guide driver and drive out the old guide instead of drilling and reaming?

Hammering on a precision shaped Interference Fit valve Guide seems Unnecessarily brutal installation method...Wouldn't Chilling down the Valve Guide allow an Easier light Press installation ?? .....Seems this be Less Dimensionally disturbing & more Retentive....

That will not last long without using Retaining Compound to seal the mating of dissimilar metal to prevent Galvanic corrosion.

Sadly soon all combustion cars and trucks including classics will be banned from public streets in entire EU and Scandinavia :-( In Germany the Green Peoples Party gave order to shorten fuel supply from 2025 on by reducing all conventional fuel stations to only one state operated central gas station per city or county. Car washs will be forbidden too because they are climate killers, now they want to slow down all the gas station pumps from 20 litre per minute to 2 litre per minute...From 2027 on in the EU certain car spare parts will be banned too....as exhaust systems, turbo chargers and even some engine and gearbox oils...California and New York will do the same from 2027 on.... So no investments should be done in oil burning cars any longer....They even created a new kind of crime here, called emissions and smoke crime.!!! (BABVVEN & TEBBVEN & BEFVO laws)!!

This rafael never knurled no no no

Don't lube reamers ruins it

how accurately does the valve land on the seat ?

What a circus!