We have more arm chair machinists than the History Channel has arm chair Generals. The technique is a sound way to install guides. The old ones come out, new ones in, bronze guides pre-reamed, and finishing ball broach add the benefits of the phosphor/bronze longer life, and tighter clearances. A simple hammer drill can be used if that is all one has. I use a vertical mill with an air float platen to locate and machine the guide. Using both the seat cone and reamer pilot gets things centered. The rest is similar to the video. A fresh seat grind/cut is the last step, if needed, so check by painting a seat with a Sharpie dark blue or black permanent marker, and dropping a valve in place. Any more than a light touch up on the seats means something wasn't centered correctly. (big uh-oh)! Knurling gets a bad rap, but again it's how one plays one's cards that makes the difference. Knurling flows metal, and work hardens the iron. The cheap bad way is to ream the guide after knurling. Reaming a knurled guide leaves large spiral oil grooves, less guide surface, and cuts away the hardened surface of the knurling. The reaming process will wear faster, and use more oil. The correct way is to swage the guide, (metal flows and is further work hardened), small thin spiral oil grooves are left, and more surface area is left (work hardened twice). Snap-On used to sell the knurling/swaging kits, but no more. So one can substitute a bronze guide ball swager, one type of which is shown on the video ( I like the dual swager balls on this model). Since different ball sizes are available, the knurled guide can be "custom swaged" for tight clearances, while the thin oil grooves provide the right amount of lubrication retention to prevent valve sticking. The Snap-On kits swager used a 1/2" standard drill, I use a simple electric hammer drill for the ball type swagers. Do knurled/swaged guides last? How does 240,000 miles with one change of seals, and still going do for you? As I said it's how one plays his cards for quality vs. crap.
Yeah we use a LOT of K-lines. I tell leery customers that out of the hundreds of thousands of liners we've installed...we can only think of 1 or 2 times the liner has actually been an issue. Liners allow the tolerances of bronze but allows the cast/cast(guide/head) same metal heat transfer properties rather than dislike bronze/cast which CAN cause issues especially on high HP/high heat situations. So long as the guides are not damaged...you're better off lining them and leaving the OEM guides in place. I can always shape them with special bits so that's not really an issue either. The owner of the shop I work in has owned it since 1976. He's as "old school" as it gets but guess who most of the vintage muscle car owners trust? yep...we have a LOT of old "lumps" and heads to build every week. We use a lot of hand tools to do what the "experts" think you need a special machine for. I had one guy watch me line honing a block with a MANUAL(gasp) jig. Of course, these are the "experts" who can barely read a dial watch let alone a dial gauge.
I do the same thing, I make collars. But, my punch is bigger than the guide... So, when I drive the guide home, the punch bottoms out on the collar. Within a couple thousandths. Works great. I quit using the air hammer for installs though. I make a brass punch, with a steel pilot. Heat the head, chill the guide. Take a B.F.H. and drive her home. The air chisel was shattering guides.
Finally! A video that isn't just a bloke with a drift he bought on a certain auction site, beating cast iron guides with a 4lb hammer until they crack! 😊 I don't feel this video has enough views! Edit: Why install a k-line with brand new guides? 🤔 My old 215ci repurposed Buick just had it's cast iron guides taken out and bronze bullet nosed ones put in.. (Short nose on the intake, normal nose on the exhaust)..
First time i have ever known anyone to fit new guides and then fit k lines inside the new guides. Unless the old ones were cracked it is a waste of time and money just fit the k lines in the old guides that is how it was always done in any shops i worked in and a workmate was always working on his mates funny car with a KB and he used k lines on that with good results.
Hello, very excellent videos. Do you know the K line driver to use for thick wall bronze liners to convert to 11/32? I think they labeled .060 heavy duty thick wall.
Why didn't you install the new K lines into the existing guides? Is it worth getting the tools to do my own guide work since I cut my own seats & pocket port them or just go to a machine shop?
i have been watching your video part 14 and have been all over the internet but cant find the guide that you show fitting into the valve seat's i'm working on 429 cj heads 11/32 stem intake diamiter 2.083 exhaust 11/32 1.656 these guide's have not been replaced still ford original cast iron. thanks your video is a real help.
Hahaha! I built many a professional race engine with silicon bronze guides that got hand reamed and hand honed all making the equivalent of a 5 liter engine 1500 horsepower naturally aspirated (motorcycle engine) and not a single one broke due to our techniques
ps i cut with Serdi and im hooked to that machine, yours seems a little bit more work and a lot more crucial to have a good fitting guide-pen our however its called in english... hooning will be with sunnen tho!! have the diamand tips allready? for normal engines you dont have to bore anymore with those honingstones
Putting k lines in new cast iron guides seems like extra work to me, i would have just put in thick walled bronze guides in, only thing i can think of is he probably didnt have any or possibly the right size bronze reamer as they are different for cast and bronze.
Those Copper Brass inserts are known for coming out I remember when they first came out guys tried using them had a lot of problems with back to the old fashioned valve guide installation bronze guides never fails cast iron guides customer doesn't want to spend the money
I'm s precision machinist in silicon valley. I'm looking for a new career when I move out of here . I think I found my calling . I've already over the years have done motorcycle heads and case work and on a few SBC stuff.
I make my living as a certified AERA machinist and have built thousands of heads and have never seen this done at our shop or others. No reason to remove the guide, drill, ream, then install a kliner. Coredrill the old guide install a cast false guide and Sunnen hone to final size. Its not uncommon to hit water on some of those BB heads on the intake side when installing seats. Some BB guides will go into the water jacket and should be sealed during installation and then pressure tested.
Is there a reason you don't use a stepped shouldered guide? And why keep the heavy 3/8 stem valves? Instead of say 11/32? Just curious, keep up the good work, im a builder and I see so much junk, so many guys that don't build them right, i appreciate you showing everything involved so people know what's really involved on a higher end build!
@@tomhutchins1046 Fuck off, keyboard trolling dickhead. Why do you have such a hard on for the guy? You've done nothing but bitch about him being a "hack" in every video. Shut the hell up.
Isn't it funny! I've long lost count of how many guys come into my shop with "But I saw "them" (whoever they are) do it like this on the internet". I usually tell them "well...then ship your engine to them and have "them" do the work". The only time most of these guys have ever made chips is while their engines were running...machine work at 6k RPM does NOT make you a machinist!lol!
These aren't fine China. They're cast iron...and any slight scratch is easily sealed up by the head gasket. I personally surface the head as the final step but it's really not a big deal. It's going to be washed again anyhow and if there's any small scratch he doesn't like...2 min on the cutter to clean it up and it's done.
The head face had not been machined you can still see the marks from the steel ring of the gasket. The head has only been either sandblasted or blasted with glass beads.
Not exactly . The exhaust guides go through the water jacket . They are tapered , almost all big block exhaust guides drive out the valve spring side and back in the spring side . If you drive them out toward the combustion chamber it will generally crack the head around the guide hole .You also need to use a loctite sealant on the guides .
Also , the later Gen 5 heads the guides knock out towards the combustion chamber side . Although I installed guides in a set of Gen 5 rectangular port heads , one head the exhaust guides went in the top the other went in through the combustion chamber . The heads are thick enough on the spring side to handle knocking the guides out through the top . It is also a good idea to pressure test any big block head after installing exhaust guides ! A lot of machine shops don't like putting exhaust guides in because of this and just install guide liners . I have had 4 heads over the years that had holes rusted through the exhaust guide . The first one bit me ! After that I pressure test all big block heads .
They were 781's and I shattered the valve cover side of the guide (top) on one of the exhaust valves trying to pound out a broken valve down and out of the guide.Somehow there were three broken valves in those 2 heads! Thank you for the response Sir!
He does not have a clue the factory intake guide goes through the water jacket and they will leak then hacks like this use block seal to try to slow the leaks
After so many miles the valve guide's are worn and you can literally wiggle the valve stem side to side thats why new guides n valves unless you want to b a shadetree hack
What he was saying is why not liner the oem guides as long as there not cracked. Why take the risk of pressing out the guides and replacing them maybe compromising the press fit? Liners are a risk There wear is inconsistent no matter how you prep them over the long run but i guess when your building a race engine with stock parts there is no long run.
I always fit guides using a spacer. as long as the guide driving tool is wider then the guide you are fitting you insert guide until the driving cant physically pass the spacer. He used a spacer on installation so would have been easy to use this technique
When it was developed. Water Displacement 40 forms a semi-dry gummy coating/lubricant. Try it on a Trumpet valve and it's great....at first. Then when the carrier solvent evaporates the coating will become sticky/gummy. Works well on door hinges, and other such apps.
@@robertbrandywine Because it's shite at anything but displacing water. Silicone or engine oil are lubricants. Molybdenum disulfide is a lubricant. Petroleum distillates are NOT all lubricants.
@@VeritasEtAequitas It may not be a *good* lubricant, but it is a lubricant. WD40 advertises it is a lubricant. You should sue them for false advertising if you are so confident it isn't a lubricant. www.wd40.com/myths-legends-fun-facts/
I called a couple of machine shops in my area , and they say that k-liners are a mickey mouse job and that they wont last as long . Help anybody ? PS What ever happen to honing after broaching ?
NEVER NEVER do what is being done in this video as the exhaust will leak water and you will ruin the head geometry. K-liner are ok for intakes but they won't last in exhaust application. I bore the heads for 1/2 replacement guides. I use a harden guide for the exhaust and smooth wall cast iron or mag bronze for the intake. boring the head for 1/2 guides keeps the concentricity and give you guides that will last. I been building and machining motors for over 40 years If you want to see some of my work go to flickr... Racerrick428
Yeah...Although I do things a bit differently, so long as it works, it IS the "correct" way!. Personally...I don't bother punching out old guides if I'm K-lining them but if that's what the customer wants, it's not a big deal. I also wait until all the valve work is done to surface the head as well however if I'm cutting the valve cover face(with the guides out) and/or the exhaust... and it's already on the machine then I'll do all sides and most of the time there's no need to go back. Soooooo many internet experts out here!lol!
How do you think the Old timers. Did it?? With stones and what is basically a 45 degree drill and many preferred using the tool steel cutters ..they had a drill press if they were lucky..lol
First, the exhaust go through the water jacket and can be problematic sealing. Second, cost Its an iron head that goes with the engines he builds, and not to speak for Mark but last I knew he doesn't do heads separately. Part of an inexpensive BBC package, and it all works together, scienced out stock parts. Of course he will tailor to your wants but then cost can potentially go up obviously.
The BBC exhaust guide is tapered as well. I don't ever get enough to work on I always got to double check on whether they come out towards the top and drive back in, down and in. If you drive it out the wrong direction you've ruined the casting on the bottom taper where the guide seats and seals.
If you want to build a great engine then do your self a huge favour.shut up,look,listen,and try to learn something.the man is sharing true knowledge here.
I never knew we had so many Automotive machinist around..except when your looking for a good one to do a couple sets of heads or bore and align hone a block..where I live there used to be at least 10 automotive shops in an around town..now ..0 ..thats right gotta do some driving to find one..but we have hundreds and hundreds right on you tube all with 50 years experience..lol
I was thinking that myself in reference to drill deflection.Seems as though the stabilized guide plate allows the bit to follow the bore perfectly though.Can't argue with experience and the results of its application.
Most of the internet "experts" who are criticizing here can barely read a dial watch let alone a dial gauge. If it's not digital or computer controlled...it must be "wrong".!lol!
Well those heads are junk. Never ever re&re bbc guides because they are bored to the correct angles at the factory after the guide is install. Quite often they are bored .020 out of round with 2 degrees tilt so you always liner them to maintain the factory geometry. Furthermore the Exhaust guides are prone to leaking after replacement. Never do what is being shown here a BBC cast iron factory head. LINER IT with 1/2" or bronze. so before you armchair bozos open your mouth I 'm a automotive machinist for the last 40yrs. My specialty is Cylinder heads. reamer suck unless they are solid carbide like AV&Vs I use Sunnen diamond hones and honalls with dial bore .0001 gage
This guy is a hack he is centering the hand drill with the old worn seat.The old seat is not only worn but it was obviously cut to the not concentric guides. You always do guide work in a guide and seat machine. NOT with a hand drill. The guides were not concentric because they are finish bored at the factory after installing.
Tom Hutchins has anybody told you you're a f****** idiot he obviously machine them before or check them before doing this he setting it off of them you're a f---ing idiot
Tom Hutchins okay a****** I've built a 632 with 1100 horsepower no I don't know s*** anytime you want to come to Ohio I'm not far from Dragway 42 a****** and the 1100 horsepower is before I add a procharger so you want to kiss how much horsepower it makes After what are you got bozo sounds like I'm not the one that stupid f*** nut
