I would like to add a few things, you MUST trim every case and make sure every case is the correct length if you are going to crimp. If you set the crimp height and crimp longer non/improperly trimmed brass you will over crimp. When the cases are over crimped, the brass will move downwards an bulge the case at the top of the straight wall and the bolt will not close and often stick in the chamber of the rifle I only crimp very lightly or not at all if a groove or cannelure is not present for the crimp to lock into. Magnum revolver loads and cartridges loaded for tube feed rifles like lever actions should be crimped in a cannelure.
I just got the rock chucker kit and some 300 blackout dies. Slowly I will have all things needed to reload. This series of videos are so helpful. Thanks.
I've never crimped anything until I tried to crimp some .375 Ruger bullets and ruined 3 cases and one bullet trying to follow the instructions that came with my RCBS seating die. I was trying to seat the bullet and crimp at the same time. I need more information then what's provided in this video with slow motion and slow talking. How do you set your COL with out crimping the bullet. How do you tell of a bullet is over-crimped? Is there a different procedure for Roll crimp and Taper Crimp?
It looks like I have the same 308 dies used in this video. I'm just starting to learn, but how do these dies guarantee bullet concentricity, or do they?
Hey Zachary, Yes there is an advantage to seating and crimping separately. When seating and crimping at the same time, the seat plug pushes the bullet into the case at the same time the body of the die crimps the case to the bullet. When separating the operations, you can eliminate shaving the bullets when trying to seat and crimp simultaneously. Our ProChucker 7 was designed to break out each operation separately for optimum reloading. Hope that helps!
Hi Corey, for pistol, we recommend a roll crimp on a revolver round since it headspaces off the rim of the case and we recommend a taper crimp on an automatic as it headspaces on the case mouth. For rifle, if you are using a cannelured bullet we recommend roll crimping in the cannelure, and if you don't have a cannelure on the bullet, you can seat the bullet without crimp or purchase the taper crimp (rifle) if available. Also, you can always refer to the bullet manufacturer in the respective reloading manual for information about reloading their bullets!
rcbsreloading so for a 223/556 semi auto rifle would I use a roll, or taper crimp? Also what crimp is needed for a bolt action? And what crimps can be done with the method shown in this video.
Awesome video! I just use RCBS dies these days... If I want to keep the process seperate, which die do I need to buy for this crimp? Lee don’t do a 35 Whelen crimp die from what I can see :(
Yes lee seating in .35 whelen does in fact crimp! They also sell a seperate 35 factory crimp if you don’t wana use the one on the seating die! Ur welcome
Hey there, All RCBS seat dies are a combination seat and crimp die, so your seat die that was included in your set will seat and crimp simultaneously. RCBS does not offer an after crimp die. Hope that helps.
In the video the bullet you're crimping has no cannelure. Per what I've read you should only roll crimp bullets with a cannelure, so are you performing a taper crimp in this demonstration? If it is a taper crimp which die are you using to get that?
For most purposes, yes. Especially on heavy recoiling rifles and pistols. To match loads where you are controlling your neck tension with a specific bushing it isn't necessarily as important, tho. For 99% of handloaders they should have a crimp on their rounds.
