I use Evaporust and have very good results with it. Plus, it is safe to use, biodegradable, and easy to clean off. The instructions say to re coat your item after cleaning it, and let it air dry to prevent rusting, and it seems to accomplish that. Regards from Canada 🇨🇦
I have had great success with EvapoRust liquid for many years. You can reuse the juice over and over till it just stops working. By keeping it warm, at the lowest stove-top setting, it works much faster. It's best to remove all loose scale/rust before applying EvapoRust. Reviews of it's 'Gell' version are not good and it's quite expensive. For items that can not be submerged, spray well, cover with layers of paper towels, and spray to keep wet. If it dries out, just re-spray and continue. EvapoRust only attacks the rust and will not etch the base metal. Sanding with 80 grit preps for primer/cover coats. You must thoroughly remove all residue before painting. This stuff works really well.......
I use hydrochloric acid a lot, but always rinse the part in clean water then soak the part (for aprox. the same time it was in the acid) in a washing soda bath. I've found, especially cast iron, that some acid can remain absorbed in the material and it needs to be neutralised. Colin
I use muriatic acid myself, but you have to watch it so it doesn't continue into the metal, & then you neutralize it. As far as Evapo-Rust goes if you are willing to double the wait time cleaning vinegar works just as well.
question, i want to clean an old crank pulley and damper, i have a gallon of hydrochloric acid and a large metal dish, do i just place the pieces in the dish to soak 24h? or is there something like hot water that activates acid?
First, just outstanding content. Much to see here and learn. But caution is advised as some of the chemistry below does require knowledge of what you are doing, and also requires some protective gear such as goggles and chemical gloves. Which is best... depends on what result you want and the items to be cleaned or de-rusted. The Evaporust is formulated to be "use, rinse, dry, and proceed". The HCL really has no instructions on the label since it is used for so many different applications. Only some of them for rust removal. The procedure for use of HCL is much more drawn out and difficult if you want the same results you get from Evaporust. First is a soapy alkaline wash to remove any oils and grease. Rinse. Then add HCL to water to make a 3% to 4% solution. You should also consider heated solution to shorten the time, but ambient temps will still work as it adds a few hours to the job. Then in a home setting, you would remove the item or items, and rinse. Then immediately dip into baking soda solution and scrubbed into the parts to neutralize the acid in the pores of the metal. (this is the step that prevents that orangish color from blooming up). Then a quick clean water rinse. If you want the "gun metal gray" finish with some blueing to it, there is a similar procedure that actually keeps the parts submerged from start to finish, and requires only ONE batch of liquid. However the chemistry of the batch changes as you go through form alkaline soapy to acid, to neutral to very slightly basic, to a dump and full rinse under a hose. In this process, some of the iron removed is actually plated back onto the part as an iron oxide component called magnetite that then can be buffed and polished with oil and made to look like the heat treated black iron parts... Not a very practical process for most home enthusiasts. And as such, most folks short cut the procedure and it does flash back to orange pretty quickly.
I had just asked the question in my head as to what would happen if you used acid and then evapo-rust. So glad it occurred to you too. I've always disliked that black tint left by evapo-rust. This looks like a happy medium.
How? The unblackend area is only acid. It was submerged in EvapoRust after, aye, but it did nothing. Also; just scrub the part with a degreaser afterward, like GreazeOff and blow dry with a compressor (and desiccant snake)
Weird test as you if you had just coated the section with the hydrochloric with some wd40 or any oil, it would not have flash rusted. It is literally stripped to as bare metal as you can get - the evaporust is a converter. what i like to do is clean deep rust with hydochloric - neutralize it and then throw some phosphoric on it because that will clean up the rest and leave a coated part that will not rust.
great video - been ugin evapo rust for quite some time now and I'm super happy with the results - I combine it with an ultrasonic cleaner using only water for a good finish, though you can use some other chemicals too! tanks for the video!!
HCL eats metal, just like vinegar, grinding, sanding etc. Evapo-rust does not. Depending on what you are de-rusting would depend on what you use. Vinegar works too but it also removes metal. Large heavy metal pieces use HCL, smaller, machines or delicate parts use evapo-rust.
Not to mention the fact that HCL outputs toxic vapors and will rust everything that's in the surroundings. And if you clean off the part without neutralizing the acid on the surface of the part it will start rusting again and give you an ugly rust tint
I use evaporust all the time for rust removal. If you clean the parts first (degrease, wire wheel) that helps a lot. Yes its slower but not having to worry about acid burns or eating away the metal and its water soluble makes it far superior in my opinion.
Exactly. There are umpteen chelating agents which remove rust but how do they affect the steel. Strong/weak acid/alkali or ph neutral as in mixes like evaporust, and over what time? Strong acids e.g. may work aggressively and quickly but 'eat away' metal, a bolt for instance may lose its threads overnight, surfaces may be etched and metal lost. I've used home made 'Evaporust' for years, a simple solution, EDTA Na4 and citric acid make a ph neutral solution at 5% of the cost of evaporust or similar. Cheap and cheerful safe and easy especially if you need a big bath of the stuff. A couple of bags of cheap bulk powder and water.
My first video using citric acid sounds like I'm trying to sell you a bottle for 29.99. I was stunned. Evaporust is magic but citric acid is cheap and easy. I wish I hadn't been this old before I found out. Now I tell everyone
8:58 That's misleading. That's surface rust because you left that part in the presence of water and oxygen (either blow dry or keep submerged. The presence of both allows for the chemical reaction that is rust). But yeah, in general, go with EvapoRust. It's a chealator instead of an acid, so unless you know what you're doing with acids, it's safer
Not sure whether the trim on my stove is CHROME or STAINLESS... and want to remove rust. Have some HCL on hand but a bit fearful to use it. Regrettably cannot remove the parts (welded) so need to paint on the chemicals, not sure how long to leave them on. But this video was helpful gives me a clue on what to expect. Thanks.
Yes, sir, and I'll explain: EvapoRust is used and rinsed with water, but the acid (any acid) must be neutralized with water and bicarbonate and then rinsed again with plenty of water. If you do not follow this process, even if you paint the metal, it will oxidize again due to the effect of the acid.
@@Marcelo-56 Not so. Use Phosphoric AFTER the muratic, hydro etc. Wash with water, baking soda, dry well then Ospho or whatever. No rust, seals out with the Ospho. Used if for decades.
I hear Evaporust is very safe on metals but leaves black residue, did you experience any pitting with Hydrochloric acid? Judging by the video, the best method would be to pre-clean the rust with Hydrochloric acid then followed by Evaporust afterwards? Thanks for any advice.
definitely better from the stand[oint of no acid etching of the metal. Yes more expensive but way better if you seek finishing the piece. One wants to remove the rust without attacking the steel.
If using muratic it woks well but you gotta watch it. Not dump and come back in 4 hours. Either watch it or water it down so it's no so harsh. After wash off with baking soda and water, dry then use Ospho on it and your set. Will not rust or anything. Ospho is phosphoric acid. Made for killing rust or fir protection of bare metal.
Evapo-rust isn't all that great, I put a some in my 5 hp. gas tank for 24 hours to take care of the light rust and it did nothing to rust. I'm waiting on the local Harbor Freight to get in Iron Armor Rust Reformer.
That could be because of oily residue, get some acetone and a bunch of medium to small bolts and nuts, slosh it around in there and rinse the tank out, when all the oil residue is out, evaporust will do the rest. Fuel tanks always require extra effort, its never as simple as just throwing in some evaporust and magically it will clean the rust. I know evaporust works good, but you have to prep the surface in order for it to do its job.
Its (HCl) chemical formula... AKA Muriatic acid... Same thing. Look in your pool supply area of the store or also in the home and garden (sidewalk cleaner)
@@erikguzik8204 I know HCl is the chemical formula for hydrochloric acid, but I've never seen ClH (which would be chemically wrong) . That's why I was surprised and curious about where this nomenclature is used.
@@fabrizionicolini280 didn't work for me I spent about $130 on that stuff and it didn't do anything and the tank really wasn't that bad at the beginning after rinsing it out then I tried white vinegar that helped but it flash rusted so fast I put a little Marvel Mystery Oil into it and that didn't help then I basically cleaned it out and started again with the white vinegar got it pretty clean put some diesel fuel in it switched it all around to wash it out and then left the residue of the diesel in there because it would keep things oiled and moist because I didn't have time to get back to completing the tank and I checked it the other day and thinking it's a seal tank it would be still moist and clean with the coating of diesel but it rusted badly. Acid is next then coating the inside with red kote or caswell tank sealer
Any surface that is shadowed from the anode will remain unaffected. Yes a well designed anode cage can be created... but seldom if ever is. Neither of the methods he demonstrated are dangerous. Certainly no more dangerous than mixing electricity with water.
There is nothing dangerous about using acids for rust removal. IT is incredibly easy to use and be safe with - not sure why there is such a fear of it these days.
Or water down and it's fine down sink or in yard. Alot of fertilizer has Phoshphoric acid in them. We have it in us. Just don't put it in us. That's bad.
@@kitjasabsgabs1830 You must like killing vegetation. Take the time to know your acids before giving advice. Frankly don't provide any organic chemistry advice.
All acids can be re-used until they exhaust enough ions (oxidize) to to reduce their effectiveness. You can dump HCl down drains that have a sewage treatment system. Please do not dump anything down non treated systems. Evapo Rust is citric acid with a splash of emulsifiers.
All fine and dandy but I'm trying to do my roof in my horse trailer. Do I need a gel rust remover or can I spray on evaporust? Will it have the same effect as soaking? I find thousands of videos on things that fit into containers but nothing for larger surfaces
For the top you could use some old towels soaked in evaporust. But to be honest, I think a wirewheel or sanding is cheaper. Or just clean it and paint with rustoleum.
elbow grease - I did an old camper top once.... used a large revolving polishing wheel with the most abrasive pads I could find with white vinegar from Walmart - I don't envy you, but it can be done eventually wound up going through lots of sandpaper.... good luck
Wire wheel it as clean as possible. Wax and grease remover. Then rely on industrial coatings. Products like rustoleum are consumer grade versions that are designed specifically for these situations... and it works quite well.
I couldn't tell if you were sticking your bare hands in the acid or not you moved between the parts so quickly! I was waiting for your skin to peal off!