In my opinion there are two main reasons to caulk your toilet to the floor and two reasons not to do it! Please consult your local building code. Thanks for watching!
I've set toilets in tile grout. Serves the same function as caulking. Works well if the tile is uneven. It is also much easier to remove when the toilet needs replacing.
I've always used Tile grout on the few I've replaced. Never seen a toilet Caulked in my 75 years. Caulk gets dirty over time. Grout looks new after years.
@@notthatronjohnson1186 Grout looks 100 times better. As long as the flange is correct it shouldn't be a problem. As a plumber, I've had contractors grout it down but I always leave the very back open in case of a leak ,you will see the water, instead of it destroying the floor and not knowing.
Long time plumber, you really don’t have to leave so much un caulked, just 1.5-2” would do it and usually you can’t see it then. Many toilets are not perfectly flat on the bottom, caulking it creates a base for it. Sanitary reasons are important. Honestly the only reason I can think of to not caulk it is it is a temporary set or it is always having to get pulled in which case there is another problem. The caulk also prevents other water like from a shower from getting under it.
I love your videos! The time you put in to give us a visual demonstration of how "this will do that" instead of just telling us. Anyone can understand after watching one of your videos! (And the info is more likely to stick in our brain!) What exceptionally quality content you create! Thank you for this channel and taking the time to educate us properly! (The humor is WONDERFUL also!)
You’re absolutely right. Using the blue died water to display how water funnels down the side of the bowl then directly under the toilet. Perfect way capture a visual for us.
The old school method of securing a toilet was to set it in plaster. Thats the way i was taught and ive done dozens of toilets with that method and it works great to hold the toilet in place but also comes off with some wiggling if you need to remove it.
Thanks for finally settling this. Whether of not toilets ought to be caulked to the floor is a debate that had exercised scientists, philosophers and theologians for centuries!
I used to be a maintenance supervisor on a 100 unit property. The construction was shoddy at best. Caulking the toilet was a must since most floors were uneven. Like you said it adds incredible strength to securing the toilet to the floor. Oh I got amazing at caulking as some I've had to cover a half inch gap hahhaha.
I'm currently one of only two maintenance men ,for 115 buildings with some buildings up to 72 units! Some of the floors and the flanges are ridiculously bad, they went so far as to grout the toilets to the floor!! The place was built in 1971! Some have been leaking into the apartments ceiling below for decades!! I repair the drywall as well! Biggest problem I see ,other than un-level floors, is flanges too low barely touching bottom of toilet! And every time shut off valve needs to be replaced!
@@BigDaddy-zh2rc my biggest issue was opposite. The flange sat too high. So I had to cut out an entire wood base to match base of toilet then try to caulk basically an inch or more of space. Very fun indeed
100% do it all the time and if the install is solid you caulk it the next day to ensure no leaks. Not to mention the amount of Piss and dirt that goes under the flange is wild. Especially if you have to shim uneven floors, the silicone adds so much surface strength
I worked as a plumber for many years in British Columbia mostly installing hotel bathrooms so I've installed literally thousands of wax seals. Then 20 years ago I moved to Italy- what a revelation! There are no wax seals used in any European countries just a silicone rubber sleeve with internal and external kind of soft lips where external lips seal between the sleeve and the wastepipe and the upper internal lips seal the sleeve around the ceramic spigot that protrudes under the toilet. It's a brilliant system, very hard to get it wrong, no sticky-assed wax nonsense, no weak plastic flange. Man o man when you work with the stuff here you realise how the whole of north America is still in the dark ages plumbing-wise.
I'm in BC and couldn't agree more. Been a builder for 25 years and have seen some crazy damage from plumbing leaks. When we reno'd our house a couple of years ago I forgot to tell the plumber to use foam gaskets. They used wax. All three toilets leaked. I still see plumbers using putty on tub and sink drains for christ's sake!
How interesting that this randomly crossed my feed. I've actually been having a problem with the toilet in my apartment recently. The caulking around the bottom broke down and it started to leak. I thought the leaking was caused by the caulk failing and was going to just fix that up myself. But if I'm understanding this correctly it seems more likely that the caulk breakdown was caused by the leaking and simply replacing the caulking wouldn't fix this. So I should probably just get maintenance to look at it 😂
That leak is soaking into your floor and perhaps eating a hole through the ceiling of the unit below. Who knows how long it's been doing this? This is not clean water. Contact maintenance immediately.
I'm not a contractor, but as far as I'm aware just about every household toilet uses a wax or rubber ring to seal the toilet's drain to the pipes. It should never reach the caulking.
I just had an incident with a caulked toilet that had its wax seal fail. It was in a ground floor bathroom on a slab foundation so the typical signs of a failing seal didn't emerge (e.g. a wobbling toilet or a soft floor). What ended up happening was that the water wicked through the concrete until it hit the wall behind the toilet and then wicked up the drywall. It took a while to realize what was happening and two different plumbers to figure out where the leak was. All in all, it ended up costing around $2,500 to repair and remediate. The plumber who fixed the toilet left the back uncaulked so it would be obvious if it happened again.
Your videos are professional ! Love the visual example when explaining potential problem such as wax seal breaking, fluid ingress, etc. That makes you a better RU-vidr than the average Joe and made me write this review. Keep it up !
When i was a Tile-Setter. we made it a habit to Not caulk the toilet unless the customer requested it. We did this for two main reasons. #1 It rarely looks better than a uncaulked commode. it's very difficult to get the caulk line to look good. #2 Caulking can trap water from a leaking flange seal or wax ring and it could go undetected resulting in a rotted and moldy wood sub-floor.
Here in Finland, you can not puncture the mandatory vapour lock layer of the floor in "wet areas", so toilets are held in place only by silicone; sort of "glued" to the floor. No worry about it getting loose, after 30 + years both toilets are still firmly in place. The plumber said that if removal/replacement is needed, it is actually quite difficult to break it free; little by little with a screwdiver as a prybar and cutting the silicone caulking with a boxcutter.
@@UltraGamma25 , if glued to the floor with silicone , it would need an elephant to break it loose. The surface area is big enough, coupled with the flexible nature of the joint, it is hard to even replace if needed.
Sweden here! We use siliconeglue. Protected area (all bathroom is a wetzone and locked down with steam/water protected coatings that is not to be punctured) So no drilling in the floor that can make water find its way in to the structure. Also this is good for batchroms that has floorheating. No chance to puncture a pipe or electrical cord under there.
Been a plumber for decades. I always caulk it but leave the back just in case. I almost exclusively use clear unless it's a white toilet on white tile with white grout. International Plumbing Code in the US requires them to be caulked. Many places in the US don't use IPC so your milage may very.
I've been doing renovations for over 30 years. Quite some time ago I was going to change the flooring, vanity cabinet, and toilet on one job and noticed the toilet was caulked to the floor. This was the first time I had seen this. I didn't think anything about it, but just started to loosen the bolts and cut away the caulking. That's when the crap and liquid started oozing out. There was faeces on the floor now. I suppose the person that installed the toilet didn't have a good seal on the flange and figured the caulking would would solve the problem. What a God awful mess. Since then, if I see a toilet caulked to the floor, I refuse the job.
If you share the bathroom with people who don't understand how the shower curtain can keep water in the tub then caulking the toilet is very important. Overspray from the shower can flood the floor and depending which way water flows in your bathroom it can and will drain under the toilet. from under the toilet it is easy for the water to drain into the hole in the floor and eventually you will notice the ceiling under the bathroom looking real ugly. Ask me how I know and how much work it took to repair the headache. Additionally, the pex line for my toilet comes through the floor and it was not caullked when the place was built. Water loves to flow downhill and it will find openings.
Nice video. Frankly, I initially was skeptical. I'm glad you said check local codes. That's critical. I'm in the US and co-author a series of code reference books. The two primary MODEL codes in the US are the International Plumbing Code (IPC) and the Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC). These are called model codes because they are a starting point for a state or local jurisdiction. They may then adopt, make changes, etc. So even though both our model codes say to caulk the toilet - you still have to check with your state and local authority having jurisdiction (AHJ) to see what has been adopted/changed. In the IPC, the citation is 2705.1 #3. In the UPC, the citation is 402.2. I'm in California, which adopts the UPC with a bunch of changes as the CA Plumbing Code. This particular rule is adopted as written. However, the local AHJ may also make changes in CA, so it's still not for certain. In the SF Bay Area - where I live, no one (that I am aware of) has amended 402.2. I am a home inspector - so I try to pay attention to such stuff. lol Canada has their own National Building Code, and I believe there' are some significant differences between our I-Code (IBC, IRC, IPC, IMC, IEC/NEC) based codes and what you folks use up north in god's country. Oh, and I completely agree on the reasons to caulk. I personally leave a small gap at the rear - just in case. We have a lot of crawlspaces here. I see many bath sub-floors each year trashed due to leaking wax rings. Happy Holidays!
I looked up the Nov 2021 version of the 2018 IPC. 405.6 Water-tight joints. Joints formed where fixtures come in contact with walls or floors shall be sealed.
@@JesusProtects I laughed HARD at this. I was stunned that there is a code for this. What if I want to carpet my bathroom floor? (Gross, but still) I wouldn’t caulk the back, but would there be a code against caulking the front and sides? Nobody who grew up with brothers would make that rule. 😂
Previous owners caulked the toilet to the floor. Slow leak invisibly destroyed the tile floor, two linoleum floors under that, and the original hardwood floor under that (old house). We didn't notice anything wrong until tiles started coming loose when stepped on. Mold everywhere; lucky we were able to save the subfloor.
In sweden we have moisture barriers in all wet rooms, basically a plastic sheet behind all walls and floors in rooms or areas with running water. If you puncture it, your insurance company will not be happy.
There are a good amout of fellows that do what I do in all the bathroom I have redone including bathrooms for my own family and friends set a toilet in thinset. It stays stable and never rocks which breaks many seal over time. I love it.
Plumber here In Minnesota, at least, it is code. However I tend to lean towards the technique he mentioned of leaving the back not caulked if an inspection isn’t happening for two of the reasons presented: Leak detection and service. Great video!
Master Plumber here: Both the IPC and UPC require all fixtures to be sealed to the wall or floor surround. In the US, that covers all 50 States though it is not necessary enforced in every jurisdiction. I can tell you that many inspectors check with a card to see if the toilet is caulked (can be clear caulk). I am Licensed in Michigan and Ohio but have done investigative work and consulting in NY, PA, FL and IL and even California. It’s required for rodent proofing and to keep urine from getting into a place that can’t be easily cleaned. Good luck!
As a code geek, the UPC (402.2) requires that all plumbing fixtures be completely caulked watertight. This is a public health issue which trumps any other reason.
Thks for the video explaining this. I live in a self own appartment building, a cooperative building, and we hired a company to do a inspection of our building and the appartments. They mentionned this that according to them it isn't recommended to caulk the toilet. They said that it's because of the possible damage with water but I figured that people do caulk for a reason. I was searching why and I really liked your explanation of the pros and cons. I like your idea of caulking the toilet but leaving the back of it open. With that, we achieve the clean aspect of having caulk but still have a opening to see if there is water leaking.
I've been a plumber for 6 months now. It takes me about 2 minutes to look perfect. I enjoy caulking; because I enjoy making things look just exactly perfect...
Perfect explanation of both sides of the argument. One other note if the seal is broken it is my experience you will only smell sewer gas when the good wind blows across the vent on the roof and draws the gases up the sewer pipe. the trap is in the toilet so it comes out the broken seal of the wax ring. I now use waxless rings.
Great video and good on you for showing the pros and cons. I always calk the toilet, on the sides and front, while leaving the back open. I use Phenoseal which is a waterproof adhesive caulk that cleans up with water. That way, the toilet is secured and sealed, and getting a good finish is as easy as following up with a damp sponge.
In the U.K. I think most toilets drain to the rear, so no flange required. Just fix to the floor with a couple of screws with plastic inserts to protect the ceramic. I seal round the bottom with silicon to hold it in place and prevent water ingress underneath, particularly on a tiled surface which is likely to be mopped clean (eg an en suite), but also on floorboards just to hold it securely.
Those flanges do look like an odd idea compared to our pan connectors. Butting things together with wax? Siliconing the pan to the floor has almost become essential with the new plastic L bracket system. I don't think I've ever fitted one that felt nice and solid before that bead of silicone was done. I've found loads of those toilets that have been fitted with the floor fixings just screwed or siliconed in place to cover the screw holes. The best old loos had four screw holes pointing at the floor. Such a novel idea!
This is a good video with a lot of valid points.. One thing is the flange should sit on top of the floor. Generally there are 4 holes in the flange to screw it down firmly. If a new floor has been added on top of the existing floor then you would have to use a thicker gasket. My experience as a plumber if the flange has been properly secured and the floor is level there’s very few problems. Sometimes you will find that the bowel is not perfectly flat on the bottom where it touches the floor. When this happens then you get into shimming , grouting or caulking to keep the toilet from moving around or rocking. Everybody has their own way of dealing with this problem. Thanks for taking the time to make the video.
Always shim before you caulk. Now a question. Which do you use hard shims or soft shims? I find sometimes a mix is nice or just soft shims all the way.
I prefer the soft shims. There really not soft but a plastic wedge that has grooves in it to cut it to the desired length. Replacing a toilet that has been installed for years can turn into a bit of a nightmare. Plumbing is a great trade but I’m happy to be retired.
@@repairitdontwreckit4257 I work mostly on houses from the 60s and 80s so I get that. Old broken flanges make me quite sad. But typically make my wallet happy.
I just got a rare call back, home owner adamantly refused caulk at the base, warned him of the issues but nope. I'm now gutting his (new) floor to replace the rotting sub floor, caused by condensation dripping off the tank, a dog water bowl, and kids that can't keep the water in the tub. What a grand and expensive mess that is, so easily avoided by simply caulking down the toilet, which is required under the national pllumbing code, used in my town. Of the hundereds of bathroom remods I've done, I have never once seen an issue from caulking a toilet.
Great video, you explained both sides of the the senerios. I like the your recommendation of not chaulking the underside towards the back wall section.
Flagstaff, Arizona (USA) here. I recently replaced both toilets in our house and didn't even consider caulking the bases. Our house has a crawl space; the toilets sit on LVP on top of the plywood subfloor, and there is a significant gap around each flange. Water that seeps under the base will pour onto the dirt of the crawl space (about 5 feet below the subfloor). There is a rather tight fit between the toilets and the LVP, but liquids that make it through there drain away readily. So... the original toilets were not caulked either. They had been removed once before to remove the vinyl tile (shudder!) and put the LVP down. Over the 36 years of the home's history there was no visible ingress of liquid from the bathroom floors, but the second flange was barely up to the floor level, so the single wax seal had leaked badly into the crawl space. Can't win for losing.
I was a maintenance supervisor for 600+ houses and have 30 years of plumbing experience. I have documented MANY cases of leaks forming under calked toilets and rotting out the floor without the owner or tenant knowing it. I also saw MANY times where the toilet was not calked and the leak was noticed. I also always seal the flange to the finished floor to encourage the leak to flow out so it can be seen. NEVER seal your toilet to the floor!
This is a great video you explained to people all the misconceptions they have about flooring all the way to the flange the flange on top of flooring and the big one where they think the wax ring is for water it's main reason is for sewer gases
I love the phrase: "get medieval". Earned a subscribe just for that. Love the explanation and the work by the way, I'm a huge DIY guy so I appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
It's better to use the side notches than the standard big long slot. You just have to be a bit more precise when setting the flange, much stronger though and worth the effort. I caulk the front and sides, even though code says it needs to be completely sealed. The inspectors generally agree that it's better to leave a gap for any leaks to seep out and be noticed before it creates deeper damage to the structure.
When I originally caulked mine at the floor I left the back open but I ended up caulking it because the toilet is on the ground floor in a house with no basement so it's a concrete slab. If there were vapors or fluid leaking out you wouldn't know it and it wouldn't harm you if you have water in the bowl, which you should, and you have the caulk sealed properly. The vapors would have nowhere to go and essentially the underneath of the toilet would just become an extension of the drain pipe.
Absolutely correct! Caulk the front and sides and leave the back open, I use translucent caulk so the white transition isn’t as jarring if you do get some where you don’t want it
I do lots of reno's and if a toilet is tightened down properly it will never move. Silicone makes the job look sloppy and over time it gets mildew. The biggest reason I don't caulk them is if I ever have to replace the toilet they are never the same shape and depending on the flooring you will not always be able to remove the old silicone line.
Timing is everything: I wish my need for caulk and caulking guns had arisen after your two videos instead of a year before. Of course I bought the wrong kind of gun, and of course I bought the wrong type of caulk for sealing my tub (pure acrylic, and it's a mess now). I hate having to do a job twice, but Oh Well. Thanks for the videos: you and a couple of others on RU-vid have been an enormous help to a later-in-life homeowner who never had to learn anything about home maintenance and repair except the superintendent's phone number.
The more times you do it the more you learn and improve your skills. You'll have person pride in your expert abilities. Let's hear it for agcons . . . 👏👏👏
I worked in a high end hotel. We never caulked it to the floor. The problem was, if there was a leak from the wax seal, we often wouldn't realize it until it was too late, with water damage to the ceiling in the room below. Then, the damaged room would end up out of service while the water stain got repaired.
Well, highend Hotel with substandard workmanship and material. Fastening with silicone only, worked i whole Europe for 15-20 years and still do... No screws needed and not permitted.
45 years ago I worked in the flooring trade. Often, cheap home owners did not want to pay a plumber or me to pull and reset the toilet. What I should have been done was refuse to install the vinyl. (Young, innocent) Instead the vinyl was cut around the toilet ( patterned not free hand cut) leaving a seam at the back. The toilet would be caulked, but still not an ideal install.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Oh, yes. Two flags which lead to me not bidding. 1) "Hell no, we won't have you pulling permits. We don' need no gubmint in my house #$%^&*@! 2) "I want the cheapest solution, I'm selling it and it's not my problem. Don't care if it's right as long as it looks OK. You say either to me, and you're off to my competitors. Not risking my license or people's lives for your 'I've got mine, eff you!' mentality. Funny, it also eliminates just about all nasty, unpleasant and generally rude customers, too.
In many countries, external, flexible drain pipe is attached from the back of the toilet (not under it like in your video), which allows servicing or replacement without the need to remove the heavy toilet itself.
Working in home maintenance, I always use an extra wax ring and a putty knife to seal around the flange. Cut off chunks of wax and trowel it down into any holes and gaps around the flange, filling flush with the floor surface. This prevents any leaking from seeping under the floor and ruining the ceiling below. If you chose to caulk, leave a small uncaulked spot on the down slope side of the toilet where water can exit to signal a leak if it develops. Most floors are not entirely level. On the rare case where it's level, I leave the back open for appearance sake.
Master plumber here, I've been doing this for years! I always fill the voids around the flange up with wax before installing a new ring. I always caulk around the front of the toilet from bolt to bolt, leave the back open to make sure there's no leaks.
If you have a tile floor, use the same color of grout to set the toilet. Cement grout is perfect between two ceramic surfaces. You set the toilet onto the wet grout, letting it squish out the sides. Finish with a sponge and when it dries you have a nice solid base for your toilet, it will never rock. Grout that is finished correctly will not transfer liquids very readily.
I was going to silicone the toilet down on to the tile floor but decided to just used some waterproof tile/caulk adhesive that I had lying around. A light smear along the outside of the joint line. Did the front and the sides - its open at the back anyway. No problems, doesn't wobble etc and should be a doddle to remove if it ever needs attention.
Great advice. I installed a toilet one, and it turn out there was a hairline crack inside, not visible but it ony became active every flush. The bathroom floor was sloped, so a small quantity of water would pool at the low end of the bathroom, it took ages for me to figure out what was going on. I had silicone sealed or 'caulked' as you would say around the toilet but left the back open basically because it was too difficult to do, and I was lazy. Its easy to cut through when removing the toilet, just a box cutter flush to the floor with the blade extended
My wife and I just went through this, though there was a leaky valve at the water hookup that - in the time it took me to fix it - allowed a good amount of water onto the floor. I hadn't caulked the toilet yet, so that water went through the floor around the flange and damaged/discolored the ceiling on the floor below the toilet. Thank you for the much-needed reminder and advice to plan for fluids outside your toilet, not just inside. :-) Keep the stellar content coming, and thanks for being a kind, relatable DIYer.
We’re required to caulk them where I’m at. If it’s an upstairs or pier and beam, I’ll leave that gap. The thing I would recommend to change though the plastic flange. I’ve seen too many toilets come loose because a plastic flange broke. They make them with a metal ring. Just make sure you get one with a stainless ring. If the metal is painted don’t get it. It’s most likely pot metal and about as good as plastic. If I’m in a situation where a plastic flange is the only option. Some supply houses are limited on stainless closet flanges. One location doesn’t have the inside 3” flange in anything but plastic. So when I’m in this situation, I screw a metal repair ring over the top of it.
Amazon is your friend. I never cease to be amazed what one Home Depot will carry and another not only doesn't carry, but their associates will insist it's wrongheaded and probably leads to immorality, baldness and cancer.
@@ethelryan257 I’m referring to plumbing supply houses not Home Depot. I usually don’t have time to order from Amazon. Also Amazon and Home Depot are too expensive. I get parts from the plumbing supply house pretty much at cost and then mark it up. I’ll use Amazon sometimes to order specialty parts and occasionally use home depot in a pinch but I’d make a lot less money if I shopped there regularly
I like the compromise of leaving the back open. I flip houses for a living and have ran across a caulked toilet that leaked. The toilet was about to fall through the floor and I had to completely remove the flooring/decking in the entire bathroom down to the floor joists and start over. It got a little into one of the bedrooms, but it was just water staining and no real damage. Thankfully the floor joists were still solid as well.
I do camera inspections for interior and exterior plumbing and often have to remove / install toilets weekly. I’ve seen water damage from leaky toilets where the toilet has been caulked completely. Also, I agree that the best strategy for caulking is to do the sides and front but leave the back open. But, I typically never caulk a toilet unless the customer requests it. My reasoning is that the mark of a good toilet install is to know that you set it balanced and true with proper securing by means of booting it down. (Assuming you have a flat solid surface and a proper flange of course). Always double boot the toilet down. Set it true and level and if you do have a gap then yes, caulk for a clean look. Or as I mentioned, if the customer requests it.
I worked in the building and facilities department of a fairly large city for 41 years. I removed and replaced or reinstalled thousands of toilets. I always caulked them, all the way around. I liked the idea, and so did the janitors. It made it so much easier to keep things clean. Also, when you need to shim a toilet, which is actually quite often, the caulk actually becomes a perfectly fitted shim itself once it dries. I use siliconized acrylic caulk, not pure silicone. It dries harder, and is extremely water resistant once dry. And when you need to remove a toilet that has been caulked, just take a sharp hook knife and zip around it. Once removed, it is very easy to scrape siliconized acrylic caulk (I always used Alex Plus) off the floor and the base of the toilet if you are going to reinstall the toilet. The biggest problems with toilets unfortunately comes from modern developments. Sewer plumbing in older buildings was iron, and so was the flange that toilets bolted to. The flanges were held in place with a lead ring, which was poured in when the lead was molten. Then they outlawed the use of lead in plumbing. Then they started using ABS plastic sewer drains, which meant ABS toilet flanges, which simply would not hold a toilet in place. Caulking it helped a lot. Then came the low water use toilets, another super dumb idea. We had to remove every single one of our toilets (hundreds of them) and replace them with the new 1.5 gallon per flush toilets, which resulted in having to hire a couple more people to do nothing but go around unstopping toilets, because 1.5 gallons is simply not enough water to properly flush a toilet. Then came the pressure assisted flushing systems, and all the toilets got replaced again. But those were constantly failing, and were very expensive to replace. Oh well, it was only taxpayer money being wasted. You still can't beat an old school toilet. That's what I have in my house, and I have 3 more that I brought home from work that I acid washed, and they look brand new. I'm keeping them as replacements in case something happens to the one currently in use in my house. Oh, and I also removed the restrictors from my faucets and shower head.
I'm in the habit of caulking the flange to the flooring. That way, if you do have a leak, it won't get to the subflooring/underlayment and lead to rot. Granted, when you replace the finish flooring, you'll have to do some scraping, but I think it's a good trade-off. This video is the first one I've seen that gives what I consider a good reason (2 actually) for caulking, the "seeping under" issue and using the caulk as an adhesive to keep motion from damaging the wax ring. "Hygiene" is the usual reason, but this video actually explains how caulking improves hygiene. I agree with leaving the back uncaulked, so you get some warning of a leak.
Good explanations. I am for the old fashioned way of " no calking" My mother had her bathroom redone and even though it was not used much a leak developed at the wax ring. The water soaked under the tile long before being discovered. 6 times the amount of work to change a cheap wax ring plus fix the damage. If this were on a second story I can only imagine the toilet and a person ending up on the first floor in a very quick and loud manner .
You gave many good reasons to caulk it and not one good reason not to. Also having sewer gasses able to just waft into your bathroom, where you might have a gas water heater with a pilot light is an incredibly bad idea, trapping the gas under the toilet and in the sewer pipes is 1000% better than letting it run into your house. Not to mention the smell, and the roaches crawling up out of the sewer and into your house.
@@nickk05281982 IF you catch it before it's a problem, It should be a wax ring seal and if sealed in proper can last decades. Took up the toilet in my moms house which we put down 25 years ago and and the wax ring was still in good shape. Took up the toilet in my current house which had been down no more than 7 years and it was almost gone, because it wasn't sealed in and dried out.
@@HisboiLRoi Most but not all and there are many that are grandfathered in. Even in a closet outside the bathroom it can still be affected by gas which is heavier than air and creeps under doors etc. Better safe than very very sorry.
HA! I was with you on the two reasons to caulk but couldn't imagine what the reasons not were!?! Living in Florida, I never even considered a toilet leak being a huge issue...we almost all have single story, concrete slab construction and most have tile floors...nothing about a leak is a big deal (well, in terms of rot, etc).
I'm a 40+ year plumber...caulk is inferior to sanded grout and with the grout, there is no danger that it contains a leak under it and you never need to shim it use colored caulk to match the toilet or floor color work it in under the edge with a gloved finger clean it up with a grout sponge leave out of service 8-12 hrs perfect job!
Not necessarily. Try caulking on a floor with 1” tiles. I put down masking tape for these but it still never looks good. The only way to make it look really good is to caulk it them come back the next day and cut it evenly and scrape the grout lines
No code issue either way here where I live in FL. We did have a caulked toilet that had a small leak and did not notice it until the wife threw a blue pill in the tank. Within a few days I noticed the tile grout turning blue around the toilet. Had the toilet not been sealed in the back, we likely would have caught it sooner. When we had the bathroom remodeled, the contractor used matching grout to seat the toilet. We'll see how long before another leak shows up.
My brother, who is a master plumber does that. He does caulk the toilet, leaving a 4-5cm gap at the back. He says it's the best compromise between an early warning that there is a problem and dealing with the idiots who think you MUST caulk the toilet into place. My company (electrical) does a lot of repairs/updating after home inspection. I usually get the entire inspector's report (actually, I won't bid without it, I hate 'hidden defects' and that one is always called by the idiot home inspectors. They have no real education or knowledge, just a Holiday Inn weekend course and lots of arrogance.
That suggestion on caulk but leave the back area uncalked to allow for gases or leaks seems to give you the best of both worlds. Better stability, less likely to tear the wax seal, a spot for internal issues, and a spot to start cutting the caulk easily if removal is needed. Nice thought
I like chalking the toilet and leaving a 3 inch gap on the backside. Use a wallpaper scraper with a 4 inch blade to loosen the old chalk, best tool ever. Every homeowner I have introduced this tool to and the amazing number of uses, told me afterwards they cannot imagine doing without one.
In the nordic brand toilets there are a small hole on the side a bit above the floor (in the porcelain) to "smell and tell" if anything is trapped on the inside. Our toilets are always siliconed to the floor for hygiene and floor washing reasons.
Came about your channel. Do you have videos specifically to bathroom caulking? Product types, tips for shower, tiles, faucet, etc. Thank you for your channel!
I fill the gaps between the subfloor and the flange with wax from an extra ring and a flat bar or putty knife so that water cannot leak onto the subfloor. I put some silicone on the underside of the toilet where it will be less visible to help hold it to the floor, or silicone/caulk the toilet but leave a small gap at a low point or in the back (as you said) where water can flow out if there is a leak...considering getting those caulk tools and soap sprayer after watching this thanks for the tips.
On tile floors, I have always set in grout, looks cleaner than a caulk job in my opinion. Never thought about leaving the back open, but have also never had a wax seal fail on me. If the flange is secure and at proper height it should last the life of the toilet.
Beside the point the sewer outlet diameter is very small. In New Zealand we got 100mm pvc sewage pipe and it might get as small as 90mm where it joins to inwall cistern frame/ wall hung pan system. Wall hung pans are the future.
No clue about local code on NZ. However I lifted mine to get new vinyl installed and caulked the front & sides, leaving a small open edge at the rear. Different sealing though: S trap, down pipe passes through a rubber seal.
i was the maintenance manager for a large retirement home and our insurance company made it mandatory for all toilets above the 1st flood to be caulked to prevent overflows causing flood damage. a minor leak in a bathroom can cause major damage. the chances of an internal leak is a myth. it will go straight through unless you are on ground level.
Truer words were never spoken about those toilet bolts! The location and design works but it sucks from my limited engineering view and I never feel good about them when I install a toilet.
I'm a builder in Minnesota I've had a couple inspectors check to see if the toilet is caulked. I personally think it's good to caulk and leave a small cap. This way the toilet is more solid and less of a chance of the wax ring losing it's seal. Also if u miss it creates bacteria under the toilet. I know my plumber uses small little squeeze tubes because they can get in small areas and leaves a very nice small bead without taping it.
To caulk, or not to caulk. I've done both. And when I did caulk, I did the exact same thing with leaving a section at the back open. Floor mounts and wall mounts. Some of those wall mounts don't get cleaned thoroughly underneath.
I just don't like the look. But you bring up some good points I haven't thought of. The toilet bolt system is really annoying too. The pivot issue makes me think perhaps a couple wood blocks would be wise underneath at the front edges.
