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Jeep Grand Cherokee 4x4 Project ZJ Part 16 JKS ACOS Adjustable Coil Spacers IRO Rusty's 

RYANVISION
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1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4 with 5.2 V8 and automatic transmission. Full info below...
Suspension Info:
Rear is on RE 3.5" XJ front springs so around 6" of lift. OEM upper control arms and Rubicon Express adjustable lower control arms. Beard limiting straps are used in the rear to keep the axle from drooping too much. Rear shocks are Doetsch Tech 8000 Prerunner Series part# 8403 which are 32" extended, 18.7" compressed, 13.3" of travel with integrated bump stops. Rear uses a Rusty's Offroad adjustable track bar. Rear drive shaft is stock with no issues.
The front is on RE 3.5" springs with JKS ACOS, Iron Rock Offroad long arms and IRO 3 piece subframe assembly. This kit has a one piece driver side control arm called the Iron Y which includes both the lower and upper arm in one piece with a caster adjuster. The passenger side uses only a lower control arm, no upper. Front shocks are Doetsch Tech 8000 Prerunner series part# 8421 which are 32" extended, 18.25" compressed, 13.75" of travel. The shocks are mounted to IRO bar pin eliminators. Extended stainless steel brake lines were installed to support the additional lift and flex. Front uses a Rusty's Offroad adjustable track bar with HD frame mount. Front drive shaft is a double cardan u-joint style to replace the OEM CV shaft which broke and also would not have worked with the long arm kit. JKS Quicker Disconnects which are adjustable are used on the front sway bar.
Steering Info:
Iron Rock Offroad OTK, over the knuckle, steering kit. The kit includes a 1.25" solid cold rolled steel tie rod and drag link with 5/8" grade 8 hardware. This required us to drill the steering knuckles on both sides as well as the drop pitman arm with a 5/8" drill bit. The kit is very solid and no steering stabilizer is being used.
Check out my other videos if you want more info on the steering box brace which has been a great addition since I'm running 35x12.50 tires. The steering box was recently replaced with a new one. We've swapped out the drop pitman arm for one that is about 2" shorter than the one we had installed previously because it will work better with my lift and IRO OTK steering kit.
Axle Info:
The front is a Dana 30 with the stock CV style axles, stock gears, and no lockers. The CV differential yoke has been replaced with a u-joint yoke for the new drive shaft. The axle will soon be rebuilt with heavy duty Spicer 760x u-joint axles, 4.88 gears, and Aussie locker. The font axle also has heavy duty Rusty's Offroad lower control arm mounts to replace the bent stock ones.
The rear is a Dana 44 with stock gears and no locker. It will soon be rebuilt with 4.88 gears and Aussie locker.
Tires and Wheels:
35x12.50x15 Goodyear Wrangler MT/R Kevlar on OEM 15x7 wheels with 2" wheel spacers.
5.2 V8 Engine Notes:
The motor is finally dry as a bone, leak free thanks to Joel Gonzalez!!! Oil pan was dropped and rear main bearing cap was removed because the two piece rear main seal was leaking. The rear main seal was replaced and a high volume, 25% over stock, Melling oil pump was installed. The pan was resealed with a Fel-Pro one piece gasket. The timing chain had some slack in it so it was replaced along with new timing gears on the crankshaft and camshaft. A new timing cover was installed with a new front seal to replace the original timing cover which had a hole in it. The original harmonic balancer was cleaned up and reinstalled along with the original crankshaft pulley. A new water pump was installed with a new bypass hose to the intake manifold. The thermostat housing was replaced along with a new 195 thermostat and Fel-Pro gasket. A new tensioner was installed because the old one was nasty to say the least. The original broken EVAP canister, damaged by the front driver side tire, has been removed and replaced with a new relocated canister. A new power steering pump was installed.
The motor also has an MSD external coil and K&N intake and air filter.
Muffler is Flowmaster 40 series cutoff before rear axle. Exhaust setup from muffler to engine is stock with brand new catalytic converter.
Special Thanks: Thanks to my great friend and mechanic Joel Gonzalez for all of his hard work and dedication to Project ZJ. Thanks to Mario for selling me my first Jeep years ago because if that hadn't happened, neither would this project or all the memories on the trails and at the parks. Thanks to Mark and Mike at All Muffler Service for their work on my exhaust and also for removing the stock lower control arm mounts in the front. Thanks to Rob at Les Schwab for all of the great advice and for doing my initial alignment. Thanks to Redline Tire for doing my final alignment and mounting and balancing my new tires. Thanks to all my loyal RU-vid subscribers for their continued support and comments!!!

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2 окт 2024

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Комментарии : 16   
@ryan.vision
@ryan.vision 10 лет назад
Brett Gray, it's 8 inches total in the front with a little sag now because of the winch setup. I'm guessing about 7 inches up front including sag.
@BrettGray73
@BrettGray73 10 лет назад
What is the total lift with the springs and ACOS?
@ZjOverlander
@ZjOverlander Год назад
Why is the back wheel sitting so far forward?
@ryan.vision
@ryan.vision Год назад
That was when it was still on short arms in the rear
@jessebeckton3717
@jessebeckton3717 9 лет назад
My RE Long Arm was alot lower in the front too, The guys at RE said they planned it that was so the front rake would be closer to the factory. I added a couple spacers to level it out.
@pcrepairguy247
@pcrepairguy247 10 лет назад
How much clearance do you have in the rear? It looks pretty tight back there! Wonder trimming the fender would fix the problem.
@ryan.vision
@ryan.vision 10 лет назад
pcrepairguy247 No clearance issues in the rear at all. Check out my latest videos showing the rear completely tucked to the bump stops without rubbing and full droop on the other side, right around 14 inches of suspension travel. Only had to trim the front fenders.
@stacyschroeder6995
@stacyschroeder6995 5 лет назад
Needs the read moved back with adjustable control arms.
@Arizona1324
@Arizona1324 5 лет назад
I'm looking at lifting my ZJ. I think this is a great idea. But I'm concerned after watching this video. The rear wheels aren't centered in the wheel wells. What is causing this? It looks like the wheels would hit the body if you drove over anything.
@ryan.vision
@ryan.vision 5 лет назад
The control arm radius causes the rear wheel to pull forward as you lift it. This is normal and also happens with long arm kits, but it moves much less with the longer arm and radius. Although it looks like it will hit, mine never did. It shortens the wheelbase though and can cause strange handling as well as looking strange. What I would recommend is going to a bolt on long arm kit like Iron Rock Off Road. They have a 5.5 and 7" lift option. The kits are basically the same other than different coil springs. The longer control arms will allow you to maintain the wheelbase and keep the wheels centered in the wells. Handles and performs better on and off road as well.
@sgtchasecali196
@sgtchasecali196 5 лет назад
Charles Malcom just being honest man if you get the Iron Rock Offroad long arm kit, get all of your suspension parts from them there parts are all super super Heavy Duty high quality parts. They also have the best prices on parts for XJ And the ZJ. There customer service is untouched great guys extremely helpful
@villagomezjaime96
@villagomezjaime96 8 лет назад
can you adjust those with the jeep sitting on its own weight?
@ryan.vision
@ryan.vision 8 лет назад
No it's better to unload the weight completely
@MrUglily
@MrUglily 8 лет назад
You are my hero
@DickEncider457
@DickEncider457 7 лет назад
Wonder if I'm going to have any clearance issues with the clayton longarm upgrade kit with my exhaust and rear trac bar I'm at 4.5 on bds springs
@ryan.vision
@ryan.vision 7 лет назад
I've found the best way to deal with exhaust clearance with long arm flex and big rocks is to cut it off behind the catalytic converter and down a turn down tip to keep heat off the rear axle. I've hit it on something every other way.
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