Note; your gears may have needle bearings inside them on older transfer cases. No big deal, all you need to do is press them out before sliding them on to the shaft. Also want to clean off the magnet and clean the filter on the fluid pickup before reinstalling the cover. Very clear instructions, nice job!! RC has a vid covering the removal of the needle bearings and checking the shaft bearings wile it's open (older high mileage cases especially). You are providing great content, Really like your channel. Keep it up!!👍👍
Such a great video. I watched it a few times before removing my transfer case. I have my case out now and you had me prepared for everything and I made very quick work of it
My bro your videos are awesome .I was going to have my SYE done but now I'm going to do it myself after watching this . Thanks man keep the jeep xj videos coming .
I installed this SYE back in 2006 on my 2005 wrangler unlimited a few months after I installed a 3-1/2" RE lift. Still working awesome after 66k miles.
@@davidchavarria I did have to install a longer driveshaft. might not have to in all cases but I wanted to guarantee there was enough movement in the driveshaft with no binding.
Great video again! Nice work Austin. I will do the transfer case drop first and then this SYE later. I'm hoping the vibration will stop since I just did the 3 inch lift. Eventually I will get to the SYE for the long term
This is a great video to follow along with. My only comment would be to let the RTV dry for about 5 mins before fully torquing the bolts down. That way you don't get as much pump out as seen in the video. Also, make sure to actually go 360* around lubed surfaces rather than 180*. Other than that, someone could easily use this video (and a spare set of hands) to swap the SYE out.
Great job on the video no horsin around straight to the point, 1 question there is suppose to be a magnet that goes into a slot on the case and i didnt see yours ?????
Great video! Thanks for sharing. I put in a Zone 4.5 inch lift kit with the full leaf spring and shackle package. Did your vibration go away? Maybe you did not have any after you installed the lift and drop. My setup vibrates a bit even with the crossmember drop in it. How about your pinion angles front and rear? Did you have to change that to accommodate the CV driveshafts? I was thinking about putting the old front CV driveshaft on the rear to see how it fit then have a local driveshaft shop build me a set. I do appreciate your videos. I think you are (please don't take this wrong) a guy that is on a budget like myself that isn't given parts for free like some of these YT superstars get on a regular basis. You might become a YT superstar though if you keep doing what you are doing. I haven't found a video of yours I haven't liked.
Thanks! I haven't had any vibs really with the rear with the drop and SYE but rather the front shaft I have. The front has an even worse angle with a drop and wears the slip joint of the shaft out pretty fast. So I really wanted to get the SYE done to fix my front shaft vibs. I haven't even measured the rear angles at all but it ain't terrible, maybe later on ill shim it but its not causeing any vibs at the moment.
@@OutJeeping I did order the AA SYE from Summit and two driveshafts from Adam's Driveshaft and Offroad. We'll see what happens. Funny thing happened to me at a chain parts store today. A guy came up to me and said he really liked my XJ. He had lifted a commander with a Hemi and had a hard time finding rims to fit it. I thought it was unusual to pick a Commander to lift but I did like the idea of a Hemi though.
I noticed that you never used any liquid wrench or wd-40 when trying to break free your old rusted nuts and bolts. Also no lube when putting the muffler bracket on the pin.
What is that plug with the white (plastic)gasket ? Might be a dumb question I am just trying to learn. I’m leaking and I’m not sure if it’s from there or from above it and just running down to that plug
I attempted to pull the Tcase yesterday and had no luck getting access to the Tcase nuts on the passenger side thanks to the exhaust. Did you use a very small tool to break them loose? Do I have to remove, aka cut the exhaust off in order to get a standard wrench in there to remove the nuts?
Is it just me or does it seem like it’s smarter to pull the driveshafts before anything else? If I have to spin the shafts to get to any of the bolts, I sure as hell wouldnt want to be jacking anything up to clear a wheel while that transmission is only supported by a piece of wood on a floor jack.
awesome vid man, was that front drive shaft that you used to hook up to the SYE stock? wondering if i can just grab one from a junkyard instead of dropping another $200
OutJeeping thanks man. I stopped by a 4x4 shop and asked the same question after I watched your video and they were convinced that I needed to have a custom shaft built for $600. Eff dat! 😄
Yeah I've been running the front shaft for 5 months so far with no issues. I may eventually get a Tom Woods or Adams driveshaft which only costs around $250.
the speedo gear does not have to be aligned, that is a myth. The sensor creates pulses, it has no orientation, it only creates pulses that are multiplied by a specific factor and create MPH.
Not with these older transfer cases, it is a physical gear on gear contact. But I know what you are talking about where the sensor reads pulses, that does not apply to this application.
@@OutJeeping It is a physical gear on gear that then transfers into pulses and out of it comes a wire. The wire has pulses, there is no other way around it, the wire has an electrical signal in the form of pulses.
Im going to do my SYE, have you attempted doing this since or before without removing the Tcase and simply rebuilding in the tunnel? would you recommend or not?
I have on one of my friends jeeps and it is not as bad as it sounds. It goes a little bit faster but the disadvantage is that you are working all the time above your head.
How did you get to the 2 driver side bolts and the bottom passenger side bolt when removing the transfer case? I cant seem to get even a miniature wrench on any of those :(
For the mount and exhaust bolts, are they prone to snapping or is that an issue in the rust belt? Not a whole lot of rust issues here in CO but idk the condition of mine
@@OutJeeping Do you happen to know what size nuts to use for the Transmission mounts? I think I'll get new hardware along with a new mount. It's the 2 bolts on each side of the mount i'm worried about as well.
My front driveshaft is a bit short when I put it in the rear, it doesn't fit. I have 3 inch lift only. @OutJeeping I have 1999 xj. Any idea why it's a bit short? Also I forgot to prelube the transfer case gears, will that be a problem?
Do you have an automatic transmission with the 4.0? If not different drive train combinations will have different driveshaft lengths. As long as there is fluid in the transfer case before you run the jeep you should be good.
When you ordered the advanced adapters she kit you mentioned you were gonna run a front shaft in the rear what yoke did you get with the kit to run that shaft
@@mattcannon1231 Yup 1310 cv joint, here is the link where I got mine. www.advanceadapters.com/products/np231-sye--new-process-231j-fixed-yoke-kit-50-7906--50-7907/
Its sealing just fine, you normally just want to use ATF to prelube the inside components and the Yoke seals. Using RTV on the splines can be done if the kit did not come with rubber spline shape seals. Mine did come with the seals but unfortunately I found them after I assembled the case back together.
Phillip Wagner I didnt have to on my jeep. It doesn't point directly at the t case but there is also no vibrations so I'm going to let it be. But on my buddy's old jeep that had a 6 inch lift he had to put 2 or 3 degree shims in his axle.
Driveshaft angles would not be ideal because you have to change the rear shaft to a double cardon shaft. The angle specs between the 2 shafts is different.
Did you have to change the rear axle angle at all with shims? I put a 1inch and 1/4 drop on my transfer drop and it took all the vibration way but I still have a slight Growling noise when I decelerate.
On some applications you may have to but I didnt with my suspension setup where I have longer shackles so the angle of the axle points up more. But pinion angles vary from an SYE kit and a tcase drop
From factory there is nothing, in the video i did rtv in case the rear seal of trans were to go out, there would be an extra seal there but later on i had it pointed out that there is a weep hole in between the 2 so putting any seal there is actually useless. So don't bother putting anything there.
