JUNK Jeep Ram 3.0 ECODIESEL Engine Teardown. Why Do These ALL Fail? 

The ecodiesel is very environmentally friendly because it stops emitting any CO2 at all after a few years. It also incentivises use of public transport or bicycles. Truly an incredible design.

Chrysler tech here. I cannot express enough how I very much hate, and I do mean hate these engines! I really wish they would stop making them.

Speaking as a mechanic from the seventies, I don't know how you guys cope with this stuff today.

This engine ran reliably in Europe for a decade. It was destined for the European Cadillac SUV offering. That changed when Fiat bought many companies in its acquisition of Dodge/Ram. The Ecodiesel's downfall is attributed to US emissions on an engine that wasn't designed for them. I bought a 2015 Ram Ecodiesel brand new and used it as a work truck. There were several recalls and exhaust regen issues all due to the immissions. The truck drove like a car, even while pulling a trailer. It was really fun to drive. I did my research, and I knew the issues with the engine and purchased a factory extended warranty. I was getting 20mpg's pulling a light trailer. At 60k mile's, I started to hear a low end knock. I know what a main bearing failure sounds like. I took it to the dealer and had them check it out. They dropped the oil pan and found metal shavings. The dealer ordered me a replacement engine from Ram. This is a cab off repair, and at the end of six weeks, I had my truck back. The bill coveted by warranty was 26k, which included a rental truck the entire six weeks. I put another 50k on the truck and traded it in for a Ram 2500 with a Cummins in it. Lol...

24 minutes to get to the valve covers. Gotta be a record!

I am always blown away by how complex the emissions controls are on diesels, it's just completely insane.

Thanks for doing another one of these. I've had a 2nd gen one from 2016 which has a reputation for being a mechanical nightmare. I was "taken" by my local dealership for $5800 dollars because they claimed I had a completely contaminated fuel system and a 100% clogged fuel filter housing that caused it. They originally quoted me $15k for the repair, and my warranty repair was denied because they said the filter situation was "negligence." I literally owned the truck 10 weeks and was still on the shakedown of ownership with it. I brought it into them specifically telling them "I can't hear the fuel pump priming from the tank, start there." The day I picked it up after 3 months of back-and-forth with them, they replaced the lift pump, the filter housing, the high pressure pump and the fuse panel under the hood which is notorious for fuel pump relay failure, and a battery for the previously mentioned $5800. The truck still wouldn't start and I had it towed out of there fuming. Fast forward 13 months, a couple complaints to FCA in Detroit, the BBB, my local news channels, and just asking fellow forum people - my neighbor who works on diesels and heavy equipment for over 40 years had my Ram running in 30 minutes. Turns out the problem the entire time was *one* broken wire from the now new fuse panel (TIPM) to the fuel pump. $7 dollars worth of wire. These engines when they work are pretty amazing but like all emissions diesels - the EPA compromised their longevity and reliability - and ultimately the reputations of the designers and manufacturers by forcing gas-engine technology on an engine never intended to eat it's own s**t back down the intake. Since I live in a diesel-emissions exempt state and farm county, a delete was my first thought, but ultimately I went with an aftermarket tune that simply shut off all the parts that kill these engines. Additionally I added an oil catch-can on the PCV side of the system as well just as a precaution. I turned 110k miles yesterday and it's been solid ever since, though I hope I stopped the carnage before it became your next teardown video. :D

This is nearly exactly what happened to mine. Have a 2014 Jeep GC summit with ecodiesel- very well maintained with oil changed every ~6k miles. First time I had an issue was at ~70k miles, the engine started making a noise like an exhaust leak and had zero power. It was tough to keep the engine running at idle. Chrysler said that a piece of carbon had fallen off of the intake manifold and gotten stuck in the valve causing it to stick open and get mangled by the piston - exactly what you showed. They only replaced one cylinder head at that time- didn't touch the piston and claimed it was fine; repair was covered under third party warranty bought through Chrysler. The car made it about another 5k miles when the engine started making a horrible screeching/rattling noise and eventually cut out completely. Towed into Chrysler and it was exactly as you found here with a slipped crankshaft bearing and mangled connecting rod. (although the rod cap wasn't wedged in the block!). The determination this time was that another big flake of carbon had fallen off out of the intake manifold and into the valves causing the same as you found; piston smashes valves and ruins the connecting rod/crank. Ended up getting a brand new engine under the same warranty (best decision I ever made!) I think the moral of the story is that these engines would have probably been fine if the EGR was removed; the amount of crap that is put back into the intake with that system should be criminal and ultimately just dirties and destroys an engine that is otherwise in perfect shape.

Today a coworker and I tore down an old 350, we knew it was blown when we found 3 holes in the oil pan, it threw four rods, and broke the crank. I was thinking about these videos the entire time. Thank you for the entertainment.

I can’t imagine being a tech at a dealership and having to work on one of these. I really feel for those guys.

I guess I caught Luigi on a good day. I have a 2017 EcoDiesel Ram, completely stock, I've got 134,000 mi on it, tow my camper everywhere, get twice the fuel mileage of my friends Silverado pickup.

I have 260,000km (161,000miles) on my EcoDiesel and only issue with the engine so far is a glow plug. Proper preventative maintenance and not abusing it makes a world of difference

I'm sad to say I remember a time where 100k on a diesel was the break-in. Nowadays it's the breakout.

My dad had a 2016 Eco Diesel, really was a great truck for him. His warranty ended last year and the last 3 months of his warranty involved the melted intake. He ended up trading it in and he’s never been more relieved lol

I lived off these vehicles for a while as an FCA tech. I did 13 engines within a year and a half of the release, most with blown rod, or main bearings. Did countless EGR coolers, until the recall. Also was one of the first techs to run into the magnets falling off the tone wheel ( mounted to the rear of the crank behind the flexplate). They would crank, build fuel pressure but wouldn't fire, they'd also show RPM, had to put a labscope on the crank signal to see that the signal would completely disappear.

I had a 2018 grand cherokee diesel and at 17k miles had $7000 of warranty repairs of replacing the exhaust manifold that blew. After that I purchased the Mopar extended warranty since I didn't trust the vehicle. At 37k miles the whole exhaust system blew up and was $11k in repairs that was covered under the extended warranty. After that I sold the jeep to carmax and bought a subaru

I remember when someone with this engine on a ram called it "tried and true italian deasel" my eyes went so wide

850 views in 7 minutes...... You are a bonafide superstar Eric.

The Eco Diesel is a great engine without all that DEF and emissions BS. Those motors are lasting over 500k miles in Europe and Canada.

This engine is what convinced me to leave the dealership and go into automotive testing. Best decision I ever made, and I've never looked back.

As a depressed person u look forward to your videos every week. Thank you

This engine went to 0 rpm at ludicrous speed.

I find the sound of the wrenches, cracking of bolts and sounds of the power impact soothing. Not sure why, but it’s relaxing to hear.

I love that Adam sandlerhas a side hustle tearing down engines. So cool.

'why do these always fail?' Duh! You try going through your entire life being forced to eat your own excrement ! and see how successful you are.

Emissions controls destroyed the legendary durability and reliability of diesels.

Would really love to see a 3rd Gen 3.0 Eco diesel teardown.. One of the big selling points of the 3rd Gen was it was supposed to have 80% different new parts to improve the problems the 2nd gen had. I hope you can find one so we can see any differences!

Lots of improvements in the second and third generation of these engines. The problem I see is people do not get them up to temperature. It should be used for hauling more than short trips.

I just spit my beer when you called the oil pump "the bearing pump". Always entertaining.

I have been garage DIY wrenching for most of my 70 years. I have rounded off many, but never broken a single socket, (even those from Pennsylvania)! And you did it more than once! Kudos to you! One more item off my bucket list.

As a long-time diesel owner (and rebuilder) the EPA regulations for diesel engines seem to be almost expressly designed to cause the economic and mechanical failure of diesel engines. They make them run too cold to be powerful or efficient AND cause engines to self-destruct at less than 1/4 life of similar older engines. If I didn't have good older diesel equipment I would be looking for gas to avoid the higher cost of ownership that now accompanies these neutered POS's I am sure my son will keep our equipment as long as we can buy or make parts

It’s your personality that makes this channel great! You take a boring yet informative subject and make it highly entertaining!

I so look forward to your teardown/autotopsy videos. They remind me of my younger days. It's really refreshing to see a genuine person doing genuine things that he genuinely enjoys. Keep it up 👍

So I did a water pump and serpentine belt on one back in November. Water pump was leaking and the belt was shredded. Little did I know the thrust bearing was worn out and installing a new belt would cause the crank to fall a bit and wallar out the rear main seal and cause a severe oil leak. I've told my advisor I refuse to work on these engines when they come in on trade. The water pump, with labor is over $2500.

My guess (because it is fun to guess) is that the reason you didn't see much material around the upper parts of the engine was that the failure was relatively quick. Piston / bearing failure possibly loosened first and spun hard making a lot of heat, which contributed to the crank bearing failure, and the rod cap released and probably wedged really quickly, within a couple of rotations. That is why there isn't that much in the way to flailing damage and why there wasn't that much scrap metal and forbidden glitter anywhere except in the pan.

Most of the issues with this engine are caused by the emission systems. Diesels are meant to run much cooler but the mandates for "cleaner" vehicles takes all the byproduct and force feed it back to the engine. When you combine that with the fact that many people do not understand the necessity and frequency of regular maintenance, you have failure on a large scale. I have a 1st gen 2014 ecodiesel with 200,000 miles. It has failed twice and both were strictly related to emissions. Once you take care of that problem the issues go away.

What a packaging nightmare!

LIVE from Importapart St Louis it's SATURDAY NIGHT !!!

Great video! The correct response in the bathroom is, "I'm BEHIND on my paperwork!". Now I need to look up the first video on this engine.

Eric, it doesn't matter if you've torn down any engine before, it's always enjoyable to watch you do your thing with them.

A difficult but very interesting teardown. Very much enjoyed it. The soot from the EGR emissions though is just scary to think that’s going back into the intake.

Those emissions controls are saving the environment with all of the cars they cause to be thrown away.

As someone whos a mechanic and due to skinny arms and dry skin ive got a hard time exerting enough force on electrical connectors ive got a few tips. #1 push the connector in or together before depressing the tab. This works a lot better than one would think. #2 buy a $15 pick set. Theres very few connectors i cant get apart by basically back picking the tab itself. #3 on super stubborn ones mist with a little water or in extreme cases rubber care or ome kind of armor all type product. Remember your spraying on the outside where most connectors are designed to keep out much more water than a mist bottle can do. On ram front and rear bumper harness i douche the outside completly clean with water before opening. Ihad to break more one and replace it before discovering this

I'm surprised you only have 307,000 subscribers. Simple, straightforward, honest and interesting.

Engineers never have a clear answer towards "Lifetime"

I'm on my second 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee. 3.0 Ecodiesel... it's running just fine... I clobbered a deer with the first one at 180,000 miles...had zero Ecodiesel issues.... my #2 Grand Cherokee also has zero issues....I just keep the oil changes up to date...no extended intervals... Shell Rotella T6 5W -40 and don't use it as a heavy tow vehicle...and no tuners...all stock.

I had a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Loved it. One of my favorite vehicles of all times. It took me to 22 different states as traveling around the northeast territory. 78,000? Something miles engines starting shaking something awful. Broken crank shaft. Jeep paid for that replacement. Haul bill's labor and parts. Just short of $15,000. They have to remove the engine from the bottom of the vehicle so it tied up a lift for so many days to get the parts they needed to repair. So that went towards the billing too. I drove the wheel off it again until it dropped the second crank shaft around 152,000. We sold it with a blown engine. It still ran and moved. With alot of pedal lol.

Engine braking taken to a new extreme. Thank you for another great video!

i love the little skits you do with your coworkers

Dislodged - Def. The act of being banned from your local Elks Lodge for to many dad jokes.

"Bearing pump." ... Best unexpected giggle I had for months. Thanks.

Had a 2014 JGC, just loved the power and fuel economy, 36mpg with average driving but the emission equipment was always failing, DEF injector, particulate matter filter, Cat, etc. Over the first 4 years, every time it would go into service, it would come back getting less fuel mileage to the point it was down to 20mpg on the hwy. When the check engine light would come on, we would take it in for service, pick it up in a couple of days and driving home, the engine light would come on again. Eventually the "Engine Regen" would come on every three or four days. We were in the shop so many times over 4 years that the dealership that sold us the JGC refused to do any more service on it. Chrysler's solution was to have us travel 30 miles to another dealership for service. The final straw was in 2023 when the vehicle went into limp mode when we were 50 miles from anywhere. Took us an hour and a half to get to the nearest small town. Service found that the whole top of the engine was full of carbon slag that looked like wet coffee grounds. The tech told us that Jeep had reprogrammed the engine over time to meet emissions, that it was running too cool and not burning off all the carbon as well as completely decimating out fuel mileage. A friend of mine bought a 2015 but removed ALL the emission equipment and had the computer flashed. He has never had any problems and gets almost 50 miles to the gallon. The emission control equipment on vehicles is a farce and lie put out by environmentalists. You tell me, is is better to double your fuel mileage and save 50% on emissions or have the equipment that saves 10% on emissions, lowers fuel mileage and is always breaking down?

🎩 hats off to Eric for keeping a lot of cars on the road with all the parts he makes available & helping people out with cheap vehicles & Keeping all the good miatas. In his collection. @ the end of the year he should be awarded an environmental. Award for. Recycling 😂😂

The recirculation of the exhaust is a horrible thing to do to an engine I think if you doubled down on the oil changes it might survive longer

I had one of these in a 2015 1500 RAM I deleted it when it had 28k on it because I could not keep it out of the dealership. It kept plugging up the Manifold Air Pressure sensor located at the back of the intake manifold. After it was deleted I would change the water pump, thermostat, serpentine belt and all the o-rings involved with the water pump every 90k miles. I put 385k on that engine and it was perfect. At around 250k the front end was SHOT and got completely replaced. When I got rid of it it was still getting 23-27 MPG on 33" michelin ATX's. It was a good truck. I ran Lubrimoly toptec 4200 oil with 1 qt Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer. Truck never went over 8k on an oil change.

I work on these motors all the time as a diesel tech. The little coolant around the egr cooler is definitely an indication of them leaking. A lot of time you'll see it as an external leak on the exhaust side (not where coolant is supposed to be). I used to do coolers a lot, but now they are under a recall. I also used to do fuel systems a lot, timing failures, front cover leaks, intake manifolds, dpfs, tons of def issues (pumps, injectors, nox sensors) and a couple motors. The thing that gets me, is these motors don't even run as good as other similar motors. The 3.0 tdi runs better, the titan xd runs better, the baby "D" uramax runs better. These also have drivetrain issues with the diff and the transmission, tons of electrical issues. They are laggy turds with lazy transmissions, and no top end. I drove a lot of diesels and these are the worst.

Thanks for the Saturday night entertainment Eric. Keep the good videos coming!

You’re absolutely right, you should never delete one of these diesels. Because that would necessitate owning one!

When the journal diameter gets increased to create bearing surface, the surface speed between the crank and bearing increases. My 3.0 Duramax has much wider bearings since it's an inline so the journals are smaller in diameter. An Ecodiesel spinning 2k rpm has the same bearing surface speed as my 3.0 Dmax spinning at 3k.

Again, a very interesting tear down, and again, it makes me glad that I stopped working on vehicles for a living over 40 years ago. Thanks for the video.

“A fine city in Pennsylvania” ….A socket from Pittsburgh 🤣🤣🤣🤣

I find it funny you uploaded this today. I saw a white dodge eco diesel being put on a tow truck steaming.

bought my 15 3.0 Eco at 110k, did the TSB just in time on the EGR cooler which was leaking, soon had the DEF sensor fail and had to rig up a push button start for a bit until it got a tune then lost the $20 crank reluctor wheel which just meant time to add a deeper trans pan time. Added intercooler pipes and cold air intake from AFE and ever since the delete and tune its been a great truck, oil changes at 10k, fuel filter every 20k and it gets 30 mpg still goin strong at 180k now. Getting ready to do the crank reluctor wheel again and swap trans fluid at 200k, still need to replace the intake from the 110k of emissions fueled soot build up too. If I had to pay labor I would get another truck, rumor has it turbo or engine replacement need to take the cab off.

I own a 2018 Ram that I bought new with one of these engines. People ask me what I think of it, and the answer is always, "I like mine, but I wouldn't recommend getting one." On the fuel cost, I need diesel fuel to be no more than $0.70/gallon higher than gas to have better fuel cost than a Hemi powered truck. I had that for about my first year of ownership and after that it's rarely been close. Over its life this truck has cost me money on fuel. I've had to put an EGR cooler on it but overall it's not a "bad" truck. With the insane prices of vehicles, I'm planning to hang on to it. Thanks for the video Eric.

Imagine all the headaches trucking companies have…those engines have all of this crap installed also, even in the railroad industry they cant escape it.

310,000 kms om my 2014 Ram, so they don't ALL fail. Proper maintenance is everything on these engines.

9:01 I’m really glad you edit “penetrator” in every video, please don’t stop

have to agree with you eric, the threshold for a cramped engine bay was shattered years ago and it will most likely never return again, it is also the main reason why i refuse to buy a new vehicle, i enjoy wrenching on my vehicles and the idea of removing 15 items to gain access to one failed part makes me picky as heck when looking for a new car or truck, and yes the mess of an engine bay did not work in favor for this failure thanks for another killer teardown sir

I have a suspicion. You said it yourself, the top end of that engine was clean. It was immaculately clean. In a diesel engine you will never see an engine that clean in normal operation, not unless they were changing their oil every 100 miles. Diesel causes alot of soot loading in the oil, especially modern diesels with emissions. That’s why the oil turns black within a day of driving. Only reason for the engine to be that clean inside is diesel fuel dilution in the oil. Diesel acts as a solvent which washes the engine. It also provides poor lubrication causing the damage to the bearings and piston skirts. This was likely a prolonged failure until the final seconds. In this engines final moments, the worn main bearing spun. This immediately caused a full lack of lubrication to the corresponding rod bearing. The rod bearing was eaten away and the rod started knocking, the impact forces causing the one rod bolt to snap. The rod cap then hinged, bending and then breaking the second bolt. The rod cap fell between the block and crank where it immediately locked up the engine. I will say though, contrary to one of your comments, this was likely an idle failure. The driver may have command started the car or started it and went inside while waiting for it to warm up. While idling that main spun, and it sat there knocking until the rod cap let go. If it would have been any appreciable rpm, it would have just flung the rod and cap out the block. The operator probably came out and the car had stopped running, wouldn’t restart. Probably towed it to a dealer that pulled the pan and saw the damage.

Just driving my 1997 Camry. Original engine, original transmission. Literaly no problems. 27 mpg highway, ~22mpg city. 302,700 miles. Spent 30 minutes changing the spark plugs a week before posting this comment. Simple. Reliable. Fuel efficient enough. Has saved me, and my father who owned it before me, boatloads in repairs that other brands would need by now.

Some of the internets best entertainment. Thanks!

The chain tensioner bit was the funniest yet! I love these videos & think you would be a great person to work for. Serious fun!

I have owned a 2016 jeep grand Cherokee with the 3 L ecodiesel since new. Currently have 96,000 miles on the vehicle. It has gone through some re-flashes and some other fuel system warranty items but overall the vehicle has been very reliable. I do all of my own maintenance including Amsoil synthetic and fuel filter changes every time the oil gets done. An unfortunate dealer (corporate) experience was two out of the three bolts that connect the catalytic converter to the downpipe had sheared off and they would not fix them under warranty. Five hours later underneath the vehicle, I replaced it with OEM parts. Even though I have the extended emissions warranty through FCA, they claimed those parts were not covered. It became an argument, because I said they were part of the exhaust system, am I wrong? Are the bolts that connect the catalytic converter to the downpipe part of the braking system? Please read through the sarcasm. No more FCA products for me ever.

At the beginning of the air intake stroke, the piston is seized at the top of the cylinder by the carbon deposits. The rod end cap and bearing would have had much greater forces to pull down piston free of the carbon deposits. As a result, the cap end bearing would have experienced a lot of excess wear/fatigue, resulting in premature bearing failure, followed by cap bolt failure. The rate of bearing deterioration is amplified by the wrong oil type. Everything is otherwise clean, suggesting good oil change intervals. The wear to the cam bearing surfaces, suggests the wrong oil type.

This is why I still have my good old WJ 4.7L V8, easy to work with and the engine has never failed. I change the oil and filter every 5000 km and only use 95 grade RON fuel. With its HD242 center transfer case, I just love it,

If I had to guess what went wrong in this motor ...I'd say that for whatever reason, the Main Bearing on that journal spun a little, blocking off the Oil supply to that failed Rod. Thanks for the teardown Eric! Always enjoy watching them!

These (and any diesel) give much better service if deleted or at least flashed with an emissions intact tune that turns off EGR. Alas, the EPA put a stop to all that, because failed engines don't emit NOX or CO2 and are more environmentally friendly than running engines 😆 The conspiracy theorist in me thinks diesels are under particular government scrutiny and regulation as they are efficient and the government wants all of us to be in EVs. It is notable that when a gas powered engine has an emissions system, the driver gets a check engine light and can keep driving. If a diesel has an emissions issue, the driver gets a check engine light and the countdown to rapid disablement of the vehicle begins. Just something that makes me go hmm...

Very interesting and informative video. Due to the wear present on the majority of surfaces, I would say that the oil quality was not good enough for the job. Piston side skirt wear and camshaft bearing wear were dead giveaways to the lack of proper lubrication. Also, the coolant channels were corroded and crankcase breather was clogged which are more signs of poor maintenance. The impressive things about this engine, were the robustness of the build, the turbocharger, and the timing gear. These are major problem areas of many engines, and this engine passed that test with flying colors. I came away from this teardown thinking that this is a robust and good engine, but that one must be careful about oil change intervals.

Extraordinary work. Estoy muy agradecido por tu tiempo y trabajo. Dios te bendiga.

I'm from Australia, I have 2014 Eco Grand Cherokee with 87,000 miles from new. A TSB was bought out here to up grade the oil to 5W-40. I change the oil at 6,200 mile (10,000k). The only issue I've had is a "Service Electronic Throttle Control" warning on the EVIC which I traced to a clogged MAP sensor. I fitted a catch can @ 40,00 miles and I've no more problems, but I do clean the MAP sensor at every oil change. The bit that worries me now is the Turbo coolant hose, the little one under the inlet manifold is 10yo and a lot of guys here have had issues around 110,000 miles I love my GC but the cost of repairs now I'm retired worries me. Thanks for a great video by the way..👍

Your memory is insanely good. You remember what the comments yelled at you for from 3 years ago 🤯!

Even to the casual observer the EPA regulations that are targeted specifically at diesels seem to be almost expressly designed to cause the failure of diesel engines as an alternative to gasoline-fueled ICEs in the US market. Incredible cost to implement and maintain emissions equipment that when it fails (and it will since some of it is consumable) leads to decreased performance and possible serious mechanical failure. It's almost like the EPA doesn't want "clean diesel" to be a thing by saddling both the manufacturers and consumers with unreasonable regulations, without which the environment would be just fine, and consumers would be enjoying highly efficient vehicles running on renewable fuels. Instead we're told that the future is giant, heavy slugs of lithium ion ground poison on wheels, with a service life of several years, at which point most owners will throw the entire vehicle away. We are being conned by our own government as well as the vehicle manufacturers. Everyone can see that the EPA at this point has outlived its usefulness as far as vehicles are concerned. The technology has already achieved the goals of pollution reduction as much as they reasonably could have, and at this point it appears that the EPA is pushing a political agenda that really doesn't make much sense, either to the environment or the consumer.

Thanks so much for these videos, Eric. Gives me a wealth of knowledge on all the vehicles/ engines i will never consider owning!

I used to work in the auto service business in the 80's & 90's -- and all the Jeep Cherokees that came in ALWAYS had expensive repair/maintenance bills. Stuff that would last 4 times as long in other cars would have to be replaced or would breakdown. They were always walking out with $800-$1000 bills when just coming in for an oil change & tire rotation. The vehicles were very nice otherwise, with good performance, great utility, nice style & comfort, it was just the maintenance that would wind up really tragic. I would never buy one of their vehicles -- even the old Wranglers had more problems than you would expect.

I own a 94 silverado with a 350 tbi with almost 220k miles. I think I’ll just hold on to it till it finally goes. Idk when that will be but I’m scared to own anything new.

I almost bought one but did not. They seem to have issues spinning bearings. I now own a pre smog 12v Cummins as my hauler and am glad I don't have all those emissions.

I always love it when Chino Moreno explains engines I don’t know about.

Tip: if you ever take direct injection injectors out and intend to re-use them, keep the tips wet with fuel or WD40 or something. If the diesel dries out on the tips it can plug the holes. Yeesh, cleaning the intake on that would be so hard. On the old 1.9 TDI VWs it was bit of a pain to get the intake off, but it was a fine Saturday job.

i have ZERO problem with this engine had run 150K on it , and friend of mine already pass 260K . Now i am on latest version of ecodiesel with 120 k for 4 years >>> ZERO ISSUES , i do oilchange by myself every 10K km

A friend almost bought a Ram with this in it, good thing he kept his old Toyota. Still running after a warranty frame replacement. Many people think this is a cummins, but it aint!

The problem is taking the thing to Jiffy Lube or anywhere like that where they get it out of the service bay ASAP, and not giving enough time for the oil to make it into the pan. I believe there's a TSB about this that Fiat Chrysler released, but only a dealership would be aware of this. This is why I change my own oil, and have 170k of reliable operation, other than the EGR cooler recall which caused the truck to sit at the dealer for a month while waiting for the part! My father's wisdom still holds true regarding Dodge, "They build a good engine, it's everything around it that falls apart!" Tony didn't change a thing!

I had a jeep wrangler JK with a factory fitted 2.8L VM Motori diesel engine, and engine wise it was bulletproof. 220,000km on the clock when it left my hands and it didn't have a hiccup. The same cant be said for all the other jeep Chrysler parts around it. My old man has this 3.0L VM Motori diesel in his 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee and its served him well so far. (Had it since new)

Want to know why this guy has never down a tear down on a 3rd gen ecodiesel? Because they fixed all the problems.

I’ve seen first hand how amazingly terrible these engines are. The fuel economy is fantastic….. when it runs.

Had a friend that bought a new ‘14 JGC with one of these engines in it. “Cool!” I thought. Less than a year later I was real surprised to hear he got rid of it. Asked why; he was nervous about the motor long term. Ran fine, no problems, just didn’t like some things about it. I was surprised and didn’t really understand. I guess now I do…

Love my ecodiesel. 30mpg and plenty of smiles per mile. Purchased used with 40,000 miles it now has 120,000 no troubles in 6 years. That said the first owner did get a new engine. I immediately did the upgrades. Wink. Plus larger capacity AFE oil pan. Amsoil 10w30 HDD non-epa oil with ceratec additive. Oil tested at every oil change when the OLM says to change. No early changes. Just use good oil. If it dies. I will break even. It’s paid for and should last many more years. Every year is more money saved from a new truck payment. Also wait 60-90 seconds before shut off. If on a trip when fueling up or using restroom I just let it idle. Let the oil flow and maintain temperature

Why everyone talking about emissions? The EPA didn't regulate a weakass bottom end!

Ford we made the worst diesel ever made... Dodge hold my beer!

Dude, Your videos are always enjoyable!🤝👍

I read a story about 3 yrs ago of a person in South Africa that had one of these Jeeps with the eco diesel. Well he had the same problem with the main bearings but was not damaged to the point that he could not re-build it. He had it all taken apart and had all of the new parts but was unable to get main bearings for the engine. Apparently there were not produced for the public and if you wanted to have the engine rebuilt you would have to buy a short block (talk about up selling) Eventually he was able to find a bearing manufacturer that would build main bearing for this engine. It was repaired and then put for sale. Talk about poor customer service