One major issue that I ran into that caused this to be a 2 hour job was that even if you think the front sights are tight, they will still tend to rotate when tightening the compensator down. It was very difficult to line up the sights and tighten the compensator down at the same time. Will definitely need a re-zero and I hope the sights arent too far off from factory. By the way, I never messed with the front sight assembly prior to this upgrade
I just installed the muzzle break on my KelTech sub2000 and the barrel jaws and vice combo are a must! The amount of torque needed to crush the nut to the point of leveling would not be achievable just by using your hands and wrench to stabilize the barrel. Super easy install with all the mentioned tools in the video.. all fittings are tight!
Just finished this install along with pretty much everything else. If you’re considering doing this, the barrel jaws are a must due to the small area on the barrel that one has available. The jaws that I received are about half the length of the ones shown in this video but work perfect nonetheless. It is only a bit extra with the purchase of the muzzle device. I had to wrench it over almost 360 degrees to get the timing correct and the barrel jaws did the trick.
Great video easy installation ..took me 31 minutes even watching the video and installing at the same time to make sure I got everything hooked up right ..couple of scratches though on the barrel so the more tape you use I think the better on both ends for the barrel, and compensator had a few cosmetic blemishes afterwards but nothing that a good black sharpie didn’t cure. As far as vice. I used a chepo Harbor Freight..20$ central Machinery vacuum base vise. Site stayed zero…they are good. One real good advice. If you see your barrel, moving on the voice stop re-tighten device and move forward it is plastic will snap. The install was on the second GEN sub 2000 9mm.
First I ordered the barrel jaws which were not tapered at all (just a straight "V" cut). It did create marks in the barrel where it was clamped, so I would definitely put more wraps of tape on the barrel than what he used in the video. You'll have to really tighten the vise to get it to hold well enough to tighten the muzzle break (the 4 wraps of tape was enough to protect the muzzle break).
I just got them as well to do the muzzle break. Mine have a very slight mark where it seems to be a 1/16th of an inch deeper on one side. I hope this is what it's supposed to be as far as depth goes. If not it's aluminum and I am sure the steel barrel will win that fight. I have installed muzzle breaks with crush washers on other firearms before so this should go easy with this tool.
I just installed on my Smith and Wesson m&p FPC. I didn't use a vice. I placed it on a bench with towels below it and towels on top of it and use a 12-in adjustable wrench put my weight on it and there's some room for my hand to grab the front and just tighten it down. Like the way you did I timed it perfectly. Took me like 10 minutes, I also use electrical tape, put it on the wrench and put it on the muzzle break
I done my muzzle break install today on my KelTec S2K. First of all the muzzle break is quality made product by MCARBO. I had problems though, everything was going good when I was torquing down the muzzle break and then all of a sudden my front sight turned on me. Chris does mention to be sure and check your front sight to see if it's on tight. I did and it felt good and tight. Although in my case my S2K serial number had been on the barrel recall replacement list.I had sent it into KelTec to be replaced a little over a year ago.They did replace the barrel, but I don't think the tech that worked on my S2K torqued down the jam nut good enough when replacing front sight. Long story short I got the muzzle break installed looking good but it was a "B" getting the front sight and muzzle timed back right. Also I ended up nicking the sight a little bit with my wrench tighting the sight jam nut up,😭. That's something else to repair now lol. I really like the look of the S2K muzzle break though,thanks MCARBO for your product and the detailed videos.
Yup, got a vice and use the crap out of it. I was looking at some other muzzle brakes but I am going to pull the trigger (pun intended) on this as I wasn't considering how the barrel mounts up to polymer. This seems to be the most well thought out method for a Sub 2K, Thanks for another awesome video Chris!
great vid. just started to mod my sub-2000. i have two vices. inherited both of them. i think. thanks for the video. very informative. i appreciate y'all.
I just ordered the muzzle brake and optic mount. I've previously installed the all-in-one trigger bundle and recoil kit and installed it myself. I loved this platform stock, but it's a game changer with these upgrades. I can't wait to to finish this firearm! These boys flipped a decent platform into an incredible one. My only suggestion would be to demonstrate firing before and after the upgraded platforms. It would be nice to observe performance from stock to upgrade. For instance, my trigger pull difference is absolutely noticeable, however, the recoil reduction upgrade wasn't as apparent. It would be nice to see a mag dump before and after.
Regardless, I'm like a kid in a candy store waiting for these last upgrades. All-in-all, with the gun, upgrades and my Leupold LCO optic I'm sitting around $2k for an absolute tack driver platform.
Installed mines with a $18 suction cup Vice and an adjustable wrench both from harbor freight. Made it easy with the jaws. Timed It right thanks to video and tips
2023, I wasn't comfortable with the barrel jaws that I bought to do the muzzle break. I couldn't clamp it tight enough. I had some leftover half thickness jam nuts from a previous build and used that instead. It works great.
4 года назад
$67 that’s a done deal on the first of the month thank you for doing the work and research and making these really cool parts. I only use your parts on my sub 2000. Because you take the time to do the research and do it right thank you again
Nice Chris. However. I purchased the Jam Nut version, and was informed you switched to Crush Washer days after I ordered. Now I have to pay extra for Barrel Jaws or pay $40-$75 to have a Gunsmith install the Muzzle Break. My items haven't been shipped as of today. I e-mailed your Customer Service requesting the Jam Nut version, or remove that Item from the Order.
I voiced mine up with a thick towel just to hold it. I used 2 3/4 inch open end wrenches. One on the existing nut that holds the front sight on and the other on the compensator. Tightened up just fine. Do not just use a wrench with the e plastic in the vice. Gotta use the nut and a backup wrench.
So I installed the shorter version muzzle brake on a Gen 2 KEL TEC SUB 2000 and have a couple comments: I’ll second a comment I read about the barrel blocks being a different design than those in the video; the shorter version required substantial clamping pressure from the vise for a secure grab. Another issue I ran into was the front sight locknut turning as I crushed the washer. After I reset the front sight, I had to use a second wrench on the locknut to avoid movement while finishing the crush and alignment of the brake. A niggle but good to know.
@mcarbo are these now standard on the M series, and if so, how long ago did it become standard? Trying to figure out if the sub I ordered last week will have something crushing on it besides me. 😉😁😏🤭 P.S. Yes I own a cheap little Harbor Freight vice. Didn't have it for my first AR build (complete upper) but I definitely needed one for my wife's full custom build that I based around an F1 skeletonized receiver set. Lucky woman. I don't think she truly KNOWS what she has...
I have been holding off on buying one. It looks perfectly functional and cosmetically beautiful. Can anyone advise if there is ANY upwards muzzle flash created by this that could POSSIBLY obscure the ability for accurate follow up shots at night preventing you from getting back on target? This is important and is not a trivial issue. I am talking about for LEO and life and death protection at night. Looks is not as important as safety. Some powders are not flash retardant and some powders are slow burning, so sending muzzle flash upwards sometimes is a no no.
Mr Wolf be suggestion its a 9mm pistols dont run comps on them either. LEO issue your running hollow point self def. Ammo flash is same as a pistol. You run a flash light and or use a AR style bird cage flash hider if this of being blinded. Dont use a comp is your main worry I guess. The sub2000 work great day or night just as it is. I have one love it. Comps my glock 23 perfectly... 40 cal. No blinding issues I run a pistol light on it.
Yes, I have a vise. Had not used my sub for a bit. When I took it to the range, when finished, the Muzzle Brake was loose. The Rockset obviously did not hold.
4 года назад
That looks great. Sold just take my money LOL. I’ve got quite a bit of your parts on my sub 2000. The flipside mount is next with that muzzle break. And yes I have devices I think I’ve got three yeah do you want to shop and one in the house for the gun smithing.
4 года назад
Everything’s easier with the right tools; and the experience to make it work
Was super excited to receive mine followed by extreme disappointment when I realized the vice jaws were not milled like in this video to accommodate the flare in the barrel which means they would not grip the barrel properly. Took me 2+ hrs to rig it up properly to hold it steady. I’ve emailed Mcarbo for a refund currently waiting a response. Also the crush washer is too thick I had to pre crush and file it down a bit to fit as I had to turn the brake over 360 degrees to be timed perfectly. What a freaking headache I would much rather just had the lock nut with a shim or something just to hide any exposed threads. Also I pre checked the front sight locknut it was super tight and when timing the muzzle brake it took so much force it turned that locknut and threw my front sight off that I had to take everything back off and readjust… Questioning my purchase bigtime right now I hope Mcarbo makes this right. Will update.
I had a similar issue. Sight was already crazy tight. I was able to get the jaws tight enough in the vice but the sight turned just as yours did when the crush washer turned against it. I had to take the muzzle brake back off and time the muzzle brake and the sight to align. Just sighted it in perfectly the other day. Now I will have to check how close I set the front sight. I think the jam nut would have been a better solution. I did back off and re-tighten as I spun the muzzle brake. Mine took about 270° from where it started to crush until it was timed. Personally, I would have not applied this much force if it wasn't necessary get it timed with the crush washer.
I just picked up my Sub 2000 today. Before this video, I watched the one on your red dot mount. My question is how did you get your rear sight to lay down? Is it necessary for the red dot mount to be effective?
I realized the same… it doesn’t have the “step” as shown here to accommodate for the barrel flare so when torquing down the brake it spins the whole barrel in the vice. I had to spend 2+ hours figuring out a way to keep it sturdy. I had to end up filing down the crush washer to get it timed perfectly as it had to rotate over 360 degrees… Depending on their handling of this issue it might be the last purchase from this company.. Also the actual muzzle brake looks different than in the video, the end is flat not rounded. Will update..
Since you changed this to use a crush washer, and you warn about the torque on the plastic where the barrel seats to the plastic, why aren't you including the aluminum barrel vice bloc as part of the product? You go on about how important it is! It seems like a big omission and a giant risk for anyone buying this accessory. Just include it, or provide the option for the counter washer ... much simpler, and much less prone to damaging the gun!
Some people already have barrel jaws and then we'd get the question of "why am I paying for these?" There is a drop down menu on the purchase page that makes you choose if you need them or not. It is up to the buyer to determine what they need to work on their guns, same as if you change your brakes on your car. **All firearms parts and accessories should be installed by a competent gunsmith.**
@@MCARBO Why are the vice jaws you are sending out different from the ones in the video. The set I received did not have any deep or shallow contours to fit the barrel and would NOT clamp onto the barrel to stabilize it enough for the install. I tightened the vice enough (literally as hard as I could) that it marked the aluminum jaws with the barrel impression, but because they were not contoured they would not clamp the barrel in place. As a result, even with masking tape, my barrel was still damaged. The muzzle brake itself would not time correctly no matter how many times I tried using the exact method from the video. I have sent a separate Email to your company with pictures of the result.
@@2005Aztek Same here, no step in the jaws at all and they sent me the older version muzzle brake… Any luck dealing with the company? My barrel was marred as well even wrapped with tape.
@@ketobeast8489 Its been a while, but MCarbo responded. They said the barrel scratches were more than likely aluminum from the barrel jaws. I was able to clean a lot of it off (but not all). I was able to finally get the brake on. It took constant adjustment (tightening) of the vice and very small advancements when threading the brake onto the barrel. Much more difficult than it needed to be.
@@2005Aztek Nice 👍🏻 yeah I got mine on too after an hour of the same bs as you went through. Hassle could’ve been avoided with correct parts. Still gonna see if they will compensate for the wrong part hopefully will send me out the dual side QD sling mount no cost
