Worked as an auto repair technician in the dealership sector. This guy is spot on about tuning modules (aka reflashing the ECU) voiding out factory warranties. Guys like me have our ways of finding out when we diagnose problems as a result of tuning. Not worth doing stuff like this until the warranty expires
I always let the warranty run out, except when I had my last 2 mustangs, Ford actually sold a really nice calibration that was warranty approved if you had the dealer flash it for you and it had a CARB number. I had one for my 2.3 ecoboost and for my 5.0. Doesn't push it as far as aftermarket but keeping the warranty while picking up basically 30-40 free hp is nice.
@@arc00ta I've heard about that. Usually see that kind of stuff as a pre-packaged deal at the sale agreement with the dealership though. The vehicle comes with a dyno tune and has a limited powertrain warranty in case of mechanical failure, but ends up being wicked expensive for the buyer, both in the warranty contract as well as the numerous repair costs.
The thing about manufacturer warranties is that any damaged part that is usually covered under the warranty gets sent back to the manufacturer as a "core" through the warranty department. If it's found out that Stage 1-3 preset tunes from an aftermarket unit were used, then the claim is denied (as it's found to be the source of the damage and not the automaker's failure) and flat rate techs like me end up not getting paid for it. It's why we don't like preset tunes that were not included as part of the warranty contract.
@@benitoloco899 I know a lot of guys that try to reflash to stock and pass it off as a normal failure, some tuners can wipe the flash counters so they might be able to get away with it but I've never done it. Just seems dishonest, you broke it you buy it. On the other side, you get things like Chrysler denying warranty on hellcats because the dude put a K&N filter in it, well ok but the law says you have to prove his modification broke it and I'm pretty sure the air filter didn't grenade the differential at 1100 miles lol
@@arc00ta You would think that a cold air intake from K&N would be a perfect fit for a 6.2L Hellcat motor, lol! But yeah, I hear ya. Will say though, some auto warranties are sometimes like extended insurance policies: they are there when you don't need them but will gladly deny a claim for the dumbest reason. Seen it happen while I was working for GM. Then again, a lot of times there are legit reasons for it that if not denied, it can end up costing the auto makers more. This is especially so when everyone tries to pull off a dishonest warranty claim.
I recommend the Phearable tune. Similar to the TSP but feels more smooth throughout. It's easier or safer on the CVT but packs good power. I have the Phearable Stage 1.5 Non-Si tune on my CVT Hatch and it really does well pushing the car. Personally, I am just sticking to Phearable on Map 1 for longevity since it is my daily but Map 1 still packs a punch.
@@juliansantos2650 the regular standard one not the R or Race version can do 91 Octane minimum. The race version requires at least 93. You can get the race version on 91 but you would need to do 1 to 1.5 gallon of E85 mix.
@@robot3rk995 which phearable tune would you recommend with a Intercooler and a CAI on a cvt sport hatchback. I wanna use 91 because 93 is hard to find in my area
Definitely recommend changing the boost by gear for 1st simulated gear for 16 or 17 psi for driveability and it'll save the CVT in city driving. Also recommend enabling artificial knock removal, early spool, and advanced VSA under quick enables. You can also play with ramp, spool, and throttle response to your liking under quick adjustments. Good luck on your fk7 and fk8 builds!
@@russelllaronjr3735 This is going to be a pretty long comment but here it goes: Artificial Knock Removal: To protect the engine, honda placed artificial knock at higher rpms which the ECU detects and will decrease power at higher RPMs. However, if you are running higher octane (93+) you don't really need this as knock count remains in a "safe" range. Enabling this feature will eliminate artificial knock and your ECU will not decrease power at higher RPMs. Early Spool: Early Spool starts the turbo spooling process sooner than factory adding additional low end and mid-range. (although with the CVT its still laggy but because of the trasmission and not the turbo; that being said you feel this adjustment more in the 6MT) Advanced VSA: When your car slips or looses traction while under throttle, the ECU pulls back ignition and throttle to prevent drivetrain wear, but you get a huge drop in acceleration (almost like letting go of the gas when you slip). Enabling this feature will decrease throttle drop during an event where you lose traction. (This is adjustable depending on how much throttle drop you want when your tires loose traction) Boost By Gear: This changes target PSI through different gears. You can keep it at 21 PSI on all gears but in 1st gear is pretty much useless and you just lose traction and VSA pulls throttle back and you get a drop in acceleration. 2nd aint too bad at 21 PSI but i have it set at 19 and i only ever floor it on 3rd. Ramp, Spool, and Throttle response are pretty self explanatory and you can adjust how aggressive you want it in the dropdown menu for each. Keep up on maintenance and use good fuel. Tune safe and be smart. Hope this helps anyone reading this.
Man this channel made me regret getting my 21 kia forte gt because the lack of aftermarket support. You made your civic awesome man tastefully done congrats
But in all honesty, this k-tuner looks great! I’m definitely gonna consider it, however, I do have a warranty so I don’t want to violate it just yet... Edit: I got it a month ago, tuned my 2021 Hatch Sport CVT with the basemap stage 1 tune. It adds around 20 more horsepower, which in all honesty isn't a lot, but it's just the start. I ordered a PRL cold air intake RACE maf, and it advertises adding another 20 with a tune, can't wait to install!
I have warranty as well. Actually even got extended warranty as well. I felt the same as you and then one day after getting oil changed, I figured I'd pull the trigger and had no regrets after that. Car still ran fine (probably with my partial performance add ons the cold air intake and bigger Intercooler) but it became much more fun to drive now. It feels different than stock like way better!
I switch between the +6 and +9 tune from hondata, depending on my mood. I swear, what a difference. What a blast to drive. Sub 6sec 0-60 and still 40mpg's. What's not to love?!?!?
Hu? The V2 is at no higher risk of being stolen than the 1.2. You do realize that you don't have to leave it mounted, right? You don't even have to leave it in the car. Once the tune is on the car, it stays. You don't need to keep the tuner attached. The upside to the V2 is that you can use the V2 to quickly change tunes when you want to (without a laptop).
@@poetstud1981 wanted a white sport trim aswell but my nearby dealership, only has the sonic grey sport trim and the only white hatch they got is the EX
@@franciscosaldivar6251 EX trim has a few more horse than the sport, sport only has diff pedals and a single outlet exhaust. i went EX and dont regret it at all.
Fuq yeah dude! I'm totally going to buy one when my tax return arrives with no regrets. I'm stoked to have a modern car that has such a mature tuning eco system. Especially the 10th gen. There's so much press about the 11th gen but I'll always choose the last production year of a car's gen over the first year of new design. Honda really honed the 10th and made the 21 sport hatchback special. that's probably why the 22 has almost the identical motor and tune as the 21 hatchback sport. Congrats on warranty voided. I look forward to more videos as you dive deeper and learn.
Yeah man. Definitely worth voiding the warranty. Lol I'm certain there won't be anything wrong with the engine just as long as I don't go too crazy with the tunes or flooring the car everywhere I go. Lmao It's amazing how much power the car has already without the proper performance upgrades. No regrets!
It shouldn’t completely void your warranty, the Magnuson-Moss act protects you. Now, if you install a tuner or a modification and pound the heck out of your car and that modification fails or is part of the reason for a failure related to that mod, then you may not be able to use your warranty to get the car repaired, but if you tune the car and say, as an example, your brake’s master cylinder fails and they say your warranty is voided even though that tune is completely unrelated to your master cylinder, you can sue the crap out of that dealer via the Magnuson-Moss act. I listened to a podcast that dug into the particulars of all that, and one of the hosts works for Banks Performance and he went into that a little bit. It varies dealer to dealer, so pick your battles wisely if you decide to modify your car.
Ikr? But when I'm ready to do something like that to my car nothing is gonna stop me. Gotta do what you gotta do. Surely a usb wifi adapter could have been used. Respect for getting it done though
did you buy it from Two Step Performance? They offer a free TSP stage 1 tune with your ktuner. Tunes your civic to about 220 HP and 258 ft lbs of torque. super smooth, too.
probably came with the tsp tune cause they do have a package on their website that does come like that, cause base tune on hondata and ktuner it gives at most 180ish to 190ish whp
@@btrain213 honestly I love the look of them! The blacked out style is great. But it was like a 6/10 difficulty to install. RU-vid has a few good videos though that really help show you how to do it yourself if you want to save some money
Excellent video! I simply have the V1.2 model w/ a Phearable tune. I tried to tune my car, however I had way too many issues attempting it the first time despite following instructions. Ultimately drained my battery down so low nothing worked. Scared me to death, thought I had bricked my car or something. I figured out it was my battery, and I boxed everything back up and was gonna wait a while before trying again. I do have a question though: When you plug into the OBD2 port, does it feel loose? Mine feels loose when I plug in, like it isn't in all the way, but my laptop shows it was connected. Edit: Finished the video, and wow!! Sub 6 second 0-60 in the Civic is quite crazy all things considered. What tune was it, just a basemap from Ktuner? Also, as I am rather new to your channel, where do you live / what is your experience with your SRI? W/o an intercooler swap, does the SRI allow for more heatsoak?
Hey man. The cable fits fine on mine. Not loose at all. Also I'm using the base map stage 1 tune which gives +18psi/improved throttle response. Incredible how much it made the civic feel faster. Also I haven't had any problems whatsoever with the sri. Even with 95degree weather with high humidity. I left the car sitting for at least 10 minutes and the max temp I saw was between 170- 180 according to the ktuner.
Cant wait for mine. EDIT: People dont move over when a car is on the side of the road out there? I always move to the left. Also in this video do you only have 6,000 miles on it lol.
you dont need to connect your ktuner to the computer and the car at the same time. you can load the tune file onto the ktuner and then unplug it from your computer, then connect the ktuner to the car and flash the tune to the car.
What front lip is that brotha? Good video, I can't wait to order Ktuner and get the Phearable tune with it. Its supposed to be easy on the clutch so that's the route I will be taking.
is it safe to ktune? I dont know much about car engines and tuning but i feel like you are basically tuning an engine to go faster when you dont even have the extra parts inside of it to keep it safe. Wouldnt it be safer to put the parts that you actually need first in it to be safe and then ktune the car. Not the other way around. Just curious. I see people change stuff out before they ktune a car. I heard one dude ktuned his car and eventually something inside the engine blew out which was a cheap fix but i feel like that all could of been avoided if you just installed the parts you actually needed before you tune the car safely and effectively
Would you recommend this Ktuner for the 2.0 NA engines? I bought a coupe thinking it was cool but I now realize it needs better 0-60 time. I’m still very happy with my civic tho! Don’t regret it too much HAHA tho a Type R is my goal.
@@chris_timefk8 it’s one of the main settings on the same screen the layout is. I am about an hr away from Philadelphia we should hook up for a video. I just did an intercooler a few days ago and acuity upgrades to my 6spd.
Why the hell did u tune a base model automatic civic? With the tune it's still slower than a stock si. Hope u don't have any warranty issues because the dealership workers are going to laugh at you
I have a ktuner on my 2021 hatch back civic, the base maps run perfect on the cvt. However if you run the higher psi settings if you have the 1.5 T it’s risky wouldn’t recommend.
I’m a total noob. If you unplug this so as to not use that display since it’s so eyesore, does the tune still function? Or do you need it plugged in at all times?
Hello I know this video is a bit old, but I wanted to ask about the front lip and side skirts you have on the car. Where would i be able to find those? I have a 2020 hatch that I've been wanting to find exterior parts for but it's been a little bit hard haha
@@ianmulero4803 you first plug the KTV2 into your car, lock the ecu then unplug, take inside to desktop(that's what I have) plug it in load everything up like normal then make sure to SAVE the tunes to a slot once done just go back to ur car plug it in and find scroll thru till you find flash... then pick any of the tunes you saved(5 max) and that's it you do need the KTV2 plugged in at all times either unless you want to monitor your vehicle
@@robot3rk995 really? Can you send me resources where you got that from? Because I’m pretty sure TSP is less harsh on CVTs, but if I had an Si, I’d choose Phearable anytime
@@kg_1720 I've seen some forum posts about how the TSP is a bit jittery on the lower rpms from users who had used both. Phearable has a Non-Si tune. Both tunes are great and if you aren't abusing it then it shouldn't be an issue for the CVT.
The flashing lights appear for a couple minutes. After that, they all disappear. I guess during and just after the flash the car computer and sensors are still calibrating. After calibration is done then everything is good.
Just bought this car yesterday. Already have questions lol. You live in PA so you see the same weather in winter. Do you recommend switching out the rims and tires for alloy or steel rims and winter tires for those months? And if so why?Thanks
PS- Your clock timer increases seconds at 0.60 so that 5.58 was actually around 6 plus u started it a bit late so 6.2-6.4. Still great for a civic hatch but not quite type r territory.
is it possible to just install a flash into the ktuner and then take the ktuner to the car and flash the car? I don't have a laptop to bring to the car
Hi good afternoon quick question I flashed my car but the lane assist, cruise control, are still on I’ve drove my car but they’re still there, how can I get rid of them?
