Looks like Mr. Color Leveling Thinner works well with this varnish. I thin at 50:50 and spray at about 20 psi with a 0.38 needle. It's much better than unthinned - smoother, thinner layers, with much less clogging. Makes Cartograf decals look painted on. Very nice result.
Excellent tutorial, and excellent coating and appearance. A new subscriber because I have reentered modeling after a very long sabbatical and I am amazed at the huge revolution in materials, your videos are a wealth of information on using the right brands to help me gain the knowledge of materials to improve consistency. In fact your products are liked" conservation chemicals" because you can remove them and go back to original staring base with damage.
Thanks a lot for your kind comment, there will be more videos with commentary coming and our website www.vms-supplies.com holds a wealth of information you may find useful as well. Welcome back to modelling and stay in touch! Chris
Chris,it's good that the pigments are small,there was nothing worse that a blocked ab by large lumps when using some makes . Looks thick ,but the result is impressive. Prefer the sound off , back to the old text !
Greetings from Canada. Thanks for the informative video. Can this varnish be sanded/polished to remove any imperfections once it has dried? Can it take enamel weathering paints, once it is dry?
Hello, yes it can be polished. It's impervious to enamel weathering products, please check out this video where we weather this very model with enamel products: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-c8R7qT1aldM.html Happy modelling, Chris
Hello, No you do not need to use varnish prior applying decals. Silvering can be the result of air trapped between decals and model - one just needs to make sure they stick properly. Then the coat of varnish applied over finishes the job. We have 2 videos about decals will be uploading them with voice over soon. Chris
Definitely worth it, the varnish is amazing and the experience very rewarding. Even low cost Chinese airbrush (all metal not those crappy ones made of plastic) will do, just the nozzle needs to be at least 0.3 or best 0.4. Happy modelling, Chris
Does the matt actually dry matt when you apply it wet? The only reason I ask is that it goes against the practice of applying flat clear coats which require multiple light passes coupled with a faster drying thinner. Thanks.
Good question. VMS matt varnish will dry dead matte every time, one thing to remember is to shake the bottle well. The technique you are referring to was invented to to work with incorrectly formulated varnishes which lack matting agent, there one needs to do several passes for the matte to show as there is too little matting agent. Our varnish requires just one layer and it can be as thick as you like it will always dry dead matt as there is enough matting agent in the formula, provided the product is mixed well.
Hi, newbie question here - when you spray the model, do you spray the entire thing? or do you spray in sections? I'm asking as it seems like the self levelling of the product would pool at the bottom of the sides (due to gravity) unless you place the model side up. Hope that makes sense?
You can spray the top and side sections of model first then once it's dry you can do the bottom. The product will not run down due to gravity on vertical surfaces unless you really overdo it, no need to worry, it's user friendly. It's more a question of handling - you simply can't move the model around it it's wet, without disturbing the varnish with your fingers. Spray the top then the sides first, wait till dry, flip it and spray the bottom.
Hello, Not really a fan of these as it's a spray and pray kind of situation. Don't know which ones to recommend really, maybe Tamiya or AK? I can recommend our matte Varnish HD in XXL 100 ml bottles, it's similar capacity to a rattle can as half a rattle can is gas anyway so it's an impression of having a lot of product. With our 100 ml bottle and an airbrush with 0.4-0.5 nozzle you will have the accuracy and control of an airbrush and the efficiency of a can. My mom who is an artist uses these to varnish her paintings which are 100 x 50 cm, so a lot of area to cover. 😁
Hello, As long as your tool is proper clean 0.3 nozzle will spray OK and you can slightly dilute with our acrylic thinner (green label) as well. Lacquer thinner is incompatible since this is a water based product.
Are you able to use oil paint thinned with odorless thinner over this varnish?? Or will this affect the varnish top coat. Because that's what I like to weather my armor models with.
Hello, Nozzle 0.2 is better suited for detailing not for applying overall coats. It should pump the varnish OK if it's 100% clean but it can clog as 0.2 is really tight. You may check, and see how you do, if you have high skill it may be OK. It's simply easier when you use 0.4 nozzle. Thinner is not advised, it will affect the viscosity, and can cause your varnish to run. Only use thinner for old matte varnish that lost a lot of water due to evaporation and the bottle is almost empty.
@@Vmssupplies Thank you for answer, VMS. Nozzle 0,4 is really much better, no thinning, high preasure is important too. For me was a little bit difficult to keep wet surface with high preasure especially around the gun barrel and small parts because of accumulation of warnish. Main problem was plugging of nozzle after longer spraying, for me is varnish quite thick. But the result is excellent, the surface of my tank is so smooth. Some spots are not perfect, but scratches and mud will cover it later. Thank you for tutorial, it was very helpful.
Yes, but the result may be inferior to one done with an airbrush. If you paint a lot with a brush the result will be similar to what you achieve with paints. Happy modelling, Chris
@@Vmssupplies oh my god thank you so much for making this! ive been looking for so long for a good varnish thats waterbased. also once the gloss dries, will it react with any thinners?
