Can I just tell you how happy I am someone else is finally messing around with hi flow cats. They're a hidden secret to power and saving the planet in the car community.
I'm debating on running a highflow. I love the way my car sounds at wot, but the amount of black bs that covers my bumper is gross. I thought about running a loud valve thats boost activated, so cruising I get quiet and clean, and wot I get loud and eh's'stinky
I run a boost actuated dump. So it's running through the cat until about 3psi. Doesn't annoy neighbors, doesn't kill the environment (too badly), and creates a better flowing exhaust than you'll ever need. (Check eBay for the actual valve. Just run a vacuum line and you're done).
11:04 I went through the same issues with my MTX-L. That thing kills wideband sensors. After going through 6 different sensors I switched to the AEM X-series and haven't had to replace one since.
@@TheCarPassionChannel My MTX-L controller died on me, so I got the X-Series. Pro tip: You can use any generic Bosch 4.9 to replace the resistor-calibrated AEM sensor. Just switch to free air calibration. Pro pro tip: MS3 can take AEM CAN input. You just have to turn off MS3 CAN output. No more accounting for voltage offset.
Everyone has that crazy friend that has wild ideas, but they are easy to dismiss do to the amped up voice. Then comes the Miata-Daddy with a calm-soothing voice and makes all crazy ideas seem totally normal... Keep it up!
You can reuse the original miata heat shield. I have the same manifold and exhaust with the stock heat shield and after a 2 hour highway trip I can put my hand on the manifold for a second.
I would have put the stage8 nuts back on to save some headache later on, I've tried pretty much every type of locking nut including spending about 60 bucks on a full race set and it still always came loose.
@@miatafan Yeah I used the inconnel studs that came with the full race kit i bought and it still got loose, I kept tightening it everytime and just gave up and found out about the stage8.
That's awesome mate. I've pretty much based my 1.8 NB 2.5 VVT Sport build off what you have taught me, including EFR upgraded with Turbosmart parts etc. but I went with a full Kraken manifold-back system. Nice to see you've gone that way too!
Kraken low mount gang checking in. 14 months daily driving/11 autox events this season (mild build however). It's a champ (unlike me). Highly recommend Stage 8 hardware.
Dude! So stoked to see you running the same kraken bits, he makes such nice stuff! I’ve had mine for about 6 months now with a gt2560 and have been loving it so far. Very interested to see how they flow with the all mighty EFR!
Eager to hear the Simonz exhaust @greg! I have the same kit for my build sitting in my basement but I'm still 3-4weeks away from first start. Keep up the great work
Lol I keep that battery boost jumper pack close with me at all times with my nb. Running e85 and the weather being cold it helps give the car extra time to crank.
I have the 'regular' Kraken cast manifold and their 3" inch exhaust with a BMW e46 6 speed and Cadillac CTS diff. It actually fitted right out of the box with a very minor adjustment to the downpipe. Just for what it's worth to other viewers. Looking forward to seeing the numbers.
I've been running a Kraken Manifold and exhaust with an EFR6258 for about 2 years now, awesome products. You definately want the stage 8 lock nuts with Resbond and lose the gasket between the turbo and manifold it doesn't need it and will only cause headaches.
I suppose 4 cyl engines vibrates so much that the bolts loosen on turbo? Havent had any Bolt loosening issues with my mercedes 6 cylinder warped flange is my issue but that's my fault.
The nuts you used are called clad nuts and you can get them off of Amazon for pretty cheap. I run those on my turbo E46 and they're amazing. They have never loosened from heat cycling
I have a low mount Kracken with 3" exhaust and hi flow cat in a box ready to go. Probably can't afford a turbo or ecu for the next two years, but I had to have the Kracken before it gets too hot and the price goes up!
I’d love to see one in cast alu. Thick alu can absolutely take the heat that even the most built 1.8 can output. Save a good bit of weight. Tube manifolds can absolutely work and last: but it requires thicker walled tubing and or supports to help with the weight of turbo and exhaust pulling on that flange
Hey when you do the Dyno Day for the kraken highflow cat to test pipe swap, it might be a good idea to let the cat cool down a lot before unplugging the vbands. Only reason I say that is bcuz whenever you weld vbands you have to have them connected and clamped or else the heat transfer will warp the connections. Gotta have them hooked up while they heat up and leave them connected until they cool fully down. Only way to get them to not warp. And a cat gets pretty hot. Even quick tack welds with the tig torch is enough heat to warp the mating surfaces enough But otherwise I'm really looking forward to see what the difference between them are. Bcuz I want to eventually do a vband cat for the street too.
........how am I just now watching this video? What the hell, how did i miss this video lol. If you remember me...doubt it. The flyin miata turbo kit I just put on is fantastic and makes a lot of great noises, and she moves now. Saturday I'm going to bump her up to 8psi (6psi now) and call it a day for power for awhile.......time for handling and stiffen the chassis up. For the odd chance you ever make it over to central Pennsylvania, send me a message. P.S. you ever try to get on HOONIGAN channel THIS vs THAT? would be fun.....think about it and also will give your channel a bump
From the depths of Bulgaria? There were a solid few seconds you ran the engine with no oil pressure on the first startup though. Ooops. Should have disconnected the cam positttion sensor at first.
People who have issues with the turbo nuts loosening, need inconel studs, not special locking nuts. The collector of the manifold gets crazy hot, and non inconel studs will stretch and let the nuts back off
Let's gooooo! Can't wait for the next budget Miata update tho. We need the real numbers of the excam mod 😆 Yea, yea, I know it's not going to be a fair dyno since the valves was most likely leaking a bit before the mod, but still!
@@TheCarPassionChannel Awesome! Really love your channel! I'm getting a -01 VVT Sport with the big breaks, 6 speed tranny, torsen diff etc. The seller is prepping it and I hope to have it in a couple of weeks. It's almost too nice to mod tho 😬
Nice vid Greg, car is coming along so nice! Man I wish you had a video covering building a base map from scratch because I'm having a hell of a time getting the fuel tables to get the car running more than 5-15 seconds. I know it's not a miata but I have an RDX with Hondata flashpro. Hondata provide a base map to switch from MAF to MAP but the data in fuel tables is completely useless... the Hondata forum Rep said even said it was just filled as a placeholder in the tables but not relevant data. I've purchased Evans Tuning online courses (EPA) and with his direction bumped the table + 40% to start then up or down 10% trying to get a base idle long enough for a WB reading only to foul the plugs, which sucks with a top mount.👎 I have ID1050X injectors and a big turbo sitting in the garage waiting to go on but without getting the vehicle up and running on the MAP sensor I am at a stand still. If you have any info that may help me get it at least to start/idle I can figure out the rest of the fuel map. The Rep was useless and would only say to find a tuner but I have much experience with my other boosted Honda running flashpro that I tuned by myself. I like you, want to know exactly what is going on and do it on my own but getting it to start/idle is a roadblock I can't seem to get past. I don't have an issue with a tuner doing this task but it is common practice to lock and password protect the calibration once they get involved.
Great video!!! I saw your wideband sensor failed. I also struggle to get my lsu4.9 sensor to last. 6 sensors failed on me already. I've tried positioning the sensor a few different spots in the downpipe. Also made sure the wideband have good dedicated power and ground wires. Also tried switching the wideband on as soon as the megasquirt ecu sees rpm (I read the sensor does not like to be turned on while the engine is off). Still after this no luck. what do you think can be the problem?
It’s not the wideband sensor. Innovate controllers just suck. Time to ditch the megasquirt and get an EMU Black and go DBW, plus built in wideband! You’d love the rolling anti-lag and other cool features with DBW.
Nice vid Craig, looking forward to see if there is a difference at the dyno. I got some kraken gear on my shelf at home waiting for installation. I assume there is a gasket between block and manifold? Is the gasket between turbo and manifold required?
Thanks a ton for the video Greg! What would you estimate is the approximate range of horsepower gain when going from a flying-miata-style log manifold to a kraken manifold?
Things like that are usually percentage based, the more power you started with the more HP you'll gain, especially in the top end where airflow is greatest. I would love to do a turbo manifold shootout someday.
What order would you fit a 1.8nb td04 kit? 1 mani and turbo and down 2 fit intercooler 3 injectors 4 fuel pump 5 me221 fit 6 mac boost controller obviously oil return drilled and oil feed from sender fitted does that sound ok or could anyone care to tell me more? got a kit from Bofi uk Thanks
Excellent choice, I have the top mount version ceramic coated and I wouldn't be any happier that I went this route! Michael is a great help! @NA8_Oscar
I'm waiting on a turbo kit from kraken with the full 3 inch exhaust as well! I went with the top mount because I want to be able to take the turbo off and put it back on fast and I also like the look of top mount more. I hope it comes in fast!
@@timmy9602 heat's no issue so far. I mean there definitely is but nothing a turbo blanket or some heat sheathing around the heater core lines wouldnt fix. And the fitment is really nice I run it with a maxpeedingrods gt2871/gt2860 turbo and it fits just fine. Only had some trouble fitting the downpipe elbow to the turbo but you wouldn't have that problem if you buy a genuine garrett
