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Hi Dan, did you check the discarge solonoid on the pump? They often fail and are getting stuck in the open position. So compressor runs but is nog able to build any pressure just like the one that you replaced. I cleaned mine and it works already a year now. Solonoid is also just like 30 euro or so, well worth to check.
Great video Dan, you are amazing and I am glad that you recovered from Covid. Question regarding the scanner, do you recommend it? also in the 2nd link you provided, photo # 5, it says “Bi-Directional” but it didn’t work on this BMW? What are your top 3 favorite scanners? Thanks alot !
I always enjoy your videos. I wonder why we as mechanics have gotten away from the amp readings. I especially love the ac coupled amp and go to a shorter time base to see commutators. That's usually my last electric test on any electric motor. Anyways excellent quicky
Ive fixed many Bmw's with the same issue, The air inlet of the compressor has drier silica gel balls to capture moisture before the air enters the compressor, when temprature fluxtuates they usally get really moist and clogg the inlet. And doing so the compressor cant build pressure. If its below 0c they might also freeze. I take the inlet off and put the silica balls in the microwaver for 2min x 4 times (let the silica cool down in between the heat cycles or else they will get destroyed. Once the silica is white and dry again put them back in the inlet and the compressor will run for many more years.
I was working for an independent Mercedes Benz workshop a few years ago and had to repair quite a lot of airsuspensions. The most common cause of the the pump failing was a broken air intake pipe or filter. When the pipe broke, dust and water got sucked in. If it was dust then the piston wore down fast and got of course very ineffective but worked. If it was water, the electric components were destroyed and often the pump got stuck or just did not run. Thank for another great video Dan.
The pump MUST fail. They have a 'drier' which has Silca type crystals to filter moisture out from intake air... Eventually that gets blocked and strains the motor... At that stage moisture gets through into the system itself...
@@BMWcare That happens occasionally in Benz too since the pumps also have these silica crystals. Most of the time though an external air intake rubber tube that has a small filter inline breaks (or the filter fails). It is usually located in a front inner fender that is filled with road dust or water spray on a rainy day. So soon after the tube ruptures the pump fails. Not the most ideal design but I had a lot of work so I was not complaining. Btw I live in Iceland, our roads are either very dusty or they are wet.
@@Infiniti25 , don't be so nasty, it was the air compressor failing !! In Pakistan they would have fixed the compressor , at least found out what exactly made it fail, right ?!
Nice diagnosis Dan! Would love to see a teardown of the old pump to see what failed...maybe a check valve or the vent solenoid? Probably an expensive unit, so I would try it :) Nice Snap-On tools!
Almost always the rubber seal on the piston (think piston ring).It dries up and tears. Rebuild kits are cheap, but compressors these days are pretty cheap too, depends what your time is worth.
always great videos.. loved the used of the bulb to see if power was sent to the compressor.. A tear down of the compressor would be cool to find how it failed.
OMG. I just ❤️ to see that SAAB Automatic Performance Control gauge again after all these years!!! As a swede woring with SAAB, this is just FANTASTIC!!! Thanks 4 ur amazing videos and hoping u r feeling much better and got rid of that C19-tning...!
Great video Dan, hope you're ok! I remembered a BMW X6M that had the same problem back when I was at BMW, after compressor replacement I think ISTA points out to reset some values and do a ride height adaptation. Nonetheless, it's fixed Regards
Finally!! over complicated German luxury sedans are back on the channel! God i miss the challenges they bring in to the Diagnose DAN brand!!! Bravo DiagnoseDan! lovely video, i enjoyed every minute of it. i was excited to see whether you'd disassemble the compressor & look for that stuck solenoid as you did with the 5-series. Why don't you do a separate video dedicated to that since it seems to be a common failure point among sophisticated BMW's. Who knows, maybe you'd engineer a permanent fix & sell it back to the German GURU!
I was so happy when I saw that you sent out a new video. I had this same problem on my 535 Touring, BMW wanted almost 800€ so I bought a used compressor on eBay 150€ and a half hour later I was finished. BMW should move the compressor a drier area to extend the life.
Had a feeling it was the compressor, unfortunatly not a uncommon problem after they started putting it on the outside of the vehicle.. I wonder if you get parts to fix the compressor tho, remember seeing something about that. If its just piston rings or seals.. Great job Dan!
Would've been interesting to see pump disassembled. It like has some trivial fault like bad reed valve or seals. Though knowing today's German designs it's likely sealed unit that is not even possible to repair with spares 😊
But what is the cause of the compressor failing on a pretty new car? A leak somewhere that was making the compressor work for too long maybe? I can't imagine it failing so quickly with proper use.
Dan, changing the relais is "gold", nobody knows how long the relais had to switch high current as the compressor faded-out., saves the customer from a soon come back for sure.
That last part about replacing the relay was excellent!! I have had a few times where relays would stick intermittently and either drain the battery or ruin the component. And then they work ok for a bit. No Milwaukee for Dan. SnapOn runs thru his veins. It seems they even have a little hex driver that accepts the little 1/4 bits. Great camera work btw. Who does it? U sounded perfect to me!!
Not even sure SnapOn is a thing in Europe, never heard about them here. Milwakee for power tools: yes (even tho other brands are more common: Hitachi, Hilti (the "Ferrari of the tools), Makita etc. For hand tools Beta, Usag are probably the most common around here.
@@Diagnosedan Thank u for taking time to reply. I love the channel!! When a DD vid comes out, even if I’m on my electric bike in mountains, I stop and watch.
I wonder how much Dan saved the customer fixing it right first time rather than been given the runaround and BMW stealer labour costs and parts ( was that tatty box a genuine BMW supplied part ? what the customer don't see he doesn't need to worry about ? ) Paying by card sir ? pop your number in when requested you can leave your trousers on !! ( this time )
Dan, love your videos. Myself, when checking a component like a compressor I look at current draw to gauge the functionality of such component. It will be interesting to see the current draw of the old broken compressor and the current draw of the new compressor, both under a load of course.
If The car told the owner the real reason for the warning. BMW couldn’t charge the owner $1700. Scotty Kilmer would have laughed and said the owner was stupid and should have bought a Lexus.
@@Diagnosedan I wish I could have brought my 2004 Golf 2.0 to you. My a/c compressor would not come on and a VW dealer wanted $1,700 to fix it. It has freon in it.
Dan, I got an error U1155FF on my 2016 W205 Mercedes C450 AMG. My radio turned off and after awhile it turn back on without the screen. However the error in the ESP is directing me to the ESP button located in the Center Console scroll wheel areas. The full fault code is "Communication with the Lower Control Panel has Malfunction". I check all the fuses and they are all good, check to see there was power at the plug where the scroll get it's power however, the scroll and surround buttons do not work. I used a test light that test both Negative and Positive where as Positive is Red and Negative is Blue. All the pins except one is blue and one read but all the other pins are blue light from the tester. Also, I purchased AutoData from your link and have been trying to find this plug without any luck.
Could you do a teardown of the failed compressor? Might be an interesting vid? I bet that was a super expensive part for what is probably just a couple of failed seals.
Wow that seems like a really bad spot to mount the compressor in... subject to a lot of road salt and moisture. The compressor on the Touareg I used to have drew its air from the passenger side engine air filter, I imagine this gave it a longer life. I replaced the piston ring on it at 140k miles, it otherwise was fine! A $40 piston ring was a lot easier on my wallet than a whole new unit! Is the compressor on that BMW also made by Wabco?
@@Diagnosedan If it's just the piston ring that's worn out, I was impressed with the repair kit from bagpipingandy. Of course I was doing a DIY repair, not one for a paying customer so replacing the whole compressor is a sure way to avoid a comeback!
yep, this happened on my BMW X5 e70. Replaced compressor, but had a small leak which would cause it to lose pressure over a day, used thread sealant this time and things are working.
I diagnosed my parents BMW X3 . Random unlocking and other functions without touching the key when parked in the adjoining garage. Cause... Silly old sausages pressing the spare key buttons in the kitchen drawer instead of the electric garage door remote control . 🤪🤪😂
Dan, thanks for another great video. Can you help me understand how the EPA mandated Stop/Start system works on the BMW? I believe the computer injects fuel into the appropriate cylinder and fires the spark plug to bump the engine into action but I can't verify it on the Internet. Can you point me into the right direction? Thanks
Hi Dan, great video. I know how you feel, just getting over Covid myself. Curious as to your impression of the Topdon Pheonix Plus? I'm looking to upgrade, and it looks like a pretty good tool. What are your thoughts having used it?
This doesn't have anything to do with a BMV... But I hope you you can help. My son bought a 2011 A4 while he was in California in the Marines. But when driving home to Indiana he ran though a bad rain storm and now all his warning lights are staying on the dash even when the key is off and removed. (He did notice that his windshield leaks also) .This is causing the battery to run down. So I went out and bought a new battery but it is still causing the same issues. Can anyone help... Trying to get car fixed before son gets back home from Japan. Anything will help Thanks.
Great job as usual Dan! Quick question - looks like you got a new scissors lift for the shop. Off hand do you know the make and model? I'm looking for something similar for my shop (enough under car lift so you don't need to use a creeper). Any input would be appreciated, thank you.
Glad to hear you're well on your way to getting over Covid Dan. Nevertheless, I still stayed at least 6 feet away from my screen while watching your video. ;^)
Hello Dan, i follow your vids since 2019. i want a tester for european cars that is under 400 dollars. i cant afford at this moment a snap on. what would you choose to buy if you were to start now and had 600 dollars in your pocket ? please be very concise because a lot of people would actually need an answer to this question. thank you. we usually dont fix brand new cars . we fix cars above 7 years old
Hi Dan how can I message and pay you for some advice ? I have an issue on my BMW X5 and it's doing my head in trying to figure it out. Google is not much help either.
Would it be a good idea to lift and lower the car I know you said there is no service function to do it through a scanner and I don’t think there is a button like on some Mercedes but maybe toggling from sport to comfort? And listening to the compressor while watching the height adjustment also if the car does raise then falls while sitting for a while look for leaks if it lowers and doesn’t go up but compressor runs maybe check for a failing compressor?
Little bit about why relays stick. Relays are used to switch on components with high current draw, usually electric motors. When relay is switched on, stationary motor needs a lot of current to move and contacts inside relay tend to arc a little in moment when circuit is closed. The arc can sometimes be so powerful, that it welds contacts togehther, thus circuit will be permanently closed. I have seen relays, that are sticking only sometimes. That means, weld is not strong enough to withstand vibrations and release itself after time. fyi
his basic knowledge of how to diag and the internet for toehrs who dont know how air ride works to then teach themselves makes this a really good way to diag since hes also doing stuff not at a dealer hes an independant mechanic...this is awsome "current honda tech usa"