Make Insanely Huge Prints on the Creality CR-10 S5! 

Mighty Jabba's Collection hi is this the page to get the life size heads etc

Which page are you talking about?

Hi for the life size starwars heads

Mighty Jabba's Collection .. Hi , Did you print R2D2 in PLA ? I would assume so since the large circumference doesn't cover the heated section of the print bed. Do you plan on installing a new heat bed for your printers ? Ive been waiting to buy the CR-10 S5 till I could find a good sale. Let me know if you want to sell one of yours ! :))

bro, can it also make 3d model with hanging parts (needs support structure)?

Thanks for watching.

Galactus

Cthulhu

Heh, yeah I thought that would help convey the scale a bit.

Thanks, I didn't come up with the idea, but it does work quite well.

Also, how long did the full R2 dome take on the S5?

I'm going to have to try this sometime

Yes, I agree. It works for the smaller models, but I think they may have taken it a bit too far with the S5.

It's just what fits the build budget. Some competing machines do use color touch screens.

it's all about performance, you can have a good display but it eats memory. This kind of displays have low memory allocation. Just a bunch of chars in memory and send it pipelined to the screen

I don’t think any major mods are necessary (I haven’t done anything but add strain relief to the heat bed cable) but as I have mentioned before, this would be a pretty brutal machine to start with as your first printer. The biggest issue is just physically leveling such a huge bed. Without some experience and a “feel” for how to do it, it is very challenging. Maybe try getting a smaller cheap printer and getting some successes under your belt before going back to this.

@@MightyJabbasCollection man i tried practically every recommended leveling technique under the sun and then some lol, and then the issues with adhesion to the glass build plate began, and i tried every possible variation of glues, hairsprays etc to get my prints to stay in place during printing with mediocre success at best. dont get me wrong, i did manage to get a few a few good test prints done, but practically every time i attempted to launch into a serious print, everything would seem to start nice and smoothly but then i would run into issues half way through the print etc , such as the print coming loose from the surface, strange things randomly happening with the printhead destroying the print etc and the whole process would be a massive waste of time and materials. like seriously, how can a print be going so well and then 16 hours in it just goes to shit when you had maybe 2-3 hours left of the print before completion ??? it was just too frustrating yeah *im also curious why they ship those warped bits of glass with such an expensive machine, surely they could throw in something more accurate and reliable as a print surface ? for me it will cost about $400 australian to import a decent build surface kit from america so you can see why the machine is currently sitting in the corner gathering dust lol. i was admittedly a bit stupid rushing in and buying such a big machine but i just assumed they would all be basically the same to operate no matter what the size difference was ? if i had known i would have brought a smaller one to start with

How is the project going? I'm quite curious to have a look

I realize I'm 3 years late, but I cant think you enough for this.

Sounds very cool. I like your channel BTW

No sir, I do not! It would be way more work to print a larger version of the rancor because I would have to cut it up into a lot of little pieces that would have to be glued together, and I also don't think the model has enough detail to be blown up that much. I do however have a different life-size project in mind that might be even more impressive. Stay tuned...

@@MightyJabbasCollection Hey can you link it in the video description? Life size prints of sci-fi world does sound very cool!

damage

How much would all of that cost?

Indeed ! When we think in pure linear terms the S5 does not sound that big, but when you start to deal with true volume the prints are really gigantic.

resurrects.. buys a big nozzle..

Given the nature of this machine I think it would be worth the time and effort to model your prints specifically to have exactly the support you need without any necessary at all from the slicer. If necessary you might use support on the outside but internal supports could just be part of the model assuming you don't need the interior volume open ,like with a wearable helmet or something.

I don't know that I would say the bed wobbles exactly, but leveling can be a bit tricky. For the most part I didn't have any warping, although one of the pieces of the rancor jaw did pull away from the bed a bit. I think if you use enough glue on the bed it will generally be okay.

Probably a good choice unless you absolutely need huge things printed in one piece

@@MightyJabbasCollection yeah I was really tempted to get the cr-10 with the 300x300x400 build volume but maybe that will be my 2nd printer eventually

@@MightyJabbasCollection p.s. thanks for the reply. I wasn't expecting it on a video posted over a year ago

Devilish Printing I’ve been getting that a lot recently. But at least people stopped complaining about my freakishly hairy arms!

Mighty Jabba's Collection ....totally a compliment mate, love Kermit. Subbed btw 😉

My wife asked if I was listening to a Seth Rogan podcast, so your voice has many famous associations :)

I've never used a Prusa, but I've pretty much only heard good things about them.

The short answer is that I was afraid of screwing it up somehow. I do know how to use that feature, but in the end I decided it would be best to just ensure that it had enough support, even if it took more time and filament.

1) You can pause the print and change the spool. If you're using the filament detector, it will pause automatically when it runs out, but as I think I mentioned in the video I had some problems with false positives, so I ended up just keeping a snippet of filament in the detector to fool it into thinking everything was okay. When I want to change the filament I remove the snippet. Or you can also select Pause from the menu. 2) I'm not sure what the exact usable dimensions are, but it's probably good to assume that you can't something that is exactly as big as the build volume. Still, it's not a huge difference. If you really need something that is exactly that size, consider getting the CR-10 S4 instead.

I’m not really sure to be honest, but it’s worth a shot.

I didn’t do any meaningful modifications, no. But this machine can be difficult to use because of its size. Maybe that accounts for some of the differences?

I've been using .8mm nozzles for my life-size Jabba project and they work quite well. In fact I think it's almost a necessity to use a larger diameter nozzle when printing large on these printers.

Ohh sounds great cheers

Chuck Arrivas Yes I was going to mention this. Using these settings probably would have been a good idea, but after one failed part, I was afraid of screwing it up somehow, so I erred on the side of caution. But that could have saving some time and plastic

I have not been very adventurous in my material selections, so yes it is almost all PLA. I do think others have had some success with some other materials, but I know ABS is notoriously difficult with an open design like this.

@@MightyJabbasCollection Thank you for the quick reply. In that case, I will just have to try it. Can always build some sort of enclosure for the printer if needed of course, althoug I think that for large prints that would probably not be sufficient.

It’s a retractable name tag holder I got from Amazon

You'll require some hair on your teeth, that's for sure.

I wasn't really blaming the printer, just pointing it out. The model isn't optimized for printing all in one piece so a few issues are to be expected. By the way, I did print a revised version of this dome that eliminated the faceting that I mentioned. I will post a video about that at some point in the future

Ian S. Rutter In that particular case I didn’t run into any real problems with the heater size, but I think it will depend on what you are printing. I do think that as long as you use glue you can mostly get around it. I don’t remember if I talk about it in this video or not, but the heater on one of my S5s died completely and it is still pretty usable

Thank you so much. Really good to know. Have fun.

Thanks. In my case I'm pretty sure the issue is the cable being worn where it connects to the heat bed. I think a number of issues can potentially lead to the same mintemp error.

3D Printwiz Actually I didn’t find it to be much an issue, although I do make liberal use of glue in addition to heat. I do still recommend the S4 over the S5 though unless you absolutely need the largest possible size

The truth is I find it limiting sometimes, specially when I print mostly functional parts. Recently I printed a vent cover and the print occupied the whole build area of the cr10, print went flawless, but I just got myself thinking, if the vent size needed was a tad bit larger then I wuold have had to split and glue parts together, which I hate doing. Thanks for your fast reply, I think I will have to sell my FlashForge Creator Pro 2 now to get one creality s5.

You can pause the print and change the spool. If you're using the filament detector, it will pause automatically when it runs out, but as I think I mentioned in the video I had some problems with false positives, so I ended up just keeping a snippet of filament in the detector to fool it into thinking everything was okay. When I want to change the filament I remove the snippet. Or you can also select Pause from the menu.

@@MightyJabbasCollection thanks man.

I don’t really know the answer to that I’m afraid. You might try asking Mr Baddeley

Honestly I have done almost nothing in terms of mods, except for adding strain relief to the cable leading to the bed heater. It can be very difficult to level though, it's true. When leveling I usually print something that has a skirt that goes around the entire bed and manually adjust the knobs as it goes until it's printing evenly. I also always use glue on the glass

Well there are physical limits to how big this particular printer can print, so unless you somehow alter it physically I don't think they can make it print bigger than it already does. Obviously a different printer could theoretically do it, but I do think they are already at the limits of what is possible with this general design (using a very large print bed that moves, rather than having the print head move)