Thanks for watching everyone. I hope you enjoy some of the fun twists in this video. My goal, when I can, us to keep things interesting and informative. Hope you find the information on sinkholes and relief he's helpful! Check out the description for more helpful resources!
Hi dear Thomas. I have 1 question. Should I cure Soy wax candle for 2 weeks before burning? Even if I do not add any F.O or E.O? Or if it is pure soy wax without any fragrance oil there is no need to cure for 2 weeks? Thanks ij advance.
@@fareedjm not really necessary. But I would still give it at least 24-48 hours. The reason is that soy wax takes quite a while to re-settle. It may seem firm and solid but inside its still not quite settling down. So.. once it appears solid, Id give it a little longer. But 24 hours should be fine without any FO or EO
By far the best candle mentor ever! Lol😅. Ever since I started making my candles I always run to your channel!! Thank you for your knowledge in the candle making business!!
Thankyou for this video! I follow you fb pages and a member of your groups. I can't tell you how relieved I am to know that sinkhole are a common issue with soy blends. I have recently switched to a cocosoy and have been battling with sinkholes and cracked tops. I've tried everything for a solid month!! The advice I was getting was to poke holes. But I thought I was "fixing" and didn't want to fix! I wanted to pour it correctly WITHOUT sink holes as i believed i was doing something wrong. Your video has made me realize that I just need to accept this feature of my wax, and poke holes and fill. I will do some more testing to narrow down my candle making process that includes piking holes. Thankyou again.
Okay so the only trouble i have had using this method is my wick wax melting into my coloured wax, which leaves a white cloudy look. Today I done my own experiment and it worked! Put blu tack over the wick first, melt wax then gently remove the blu tack. No damage to the wick, not melted at all. I hope this helps anyone suffering the same issues.
I know this is a super old video, but its timeless. I love the content and wanted to thank you for a tip you shared on one of your otger videos ans thought maybe others on here may fi d it helpful. The only way i have found ti avoid these, was by following your method of slowing the cool time. I set my jars on the stove top in a non stick wilton brand casserole pan after i warm tge jars up in the oven. I set my wicks, pour slow and at around 170... then i leave the oven on around 170 so the heat keep tge stocetop warm. When tgey cool, they come out awesome. I can't thank you enough. I would have had so much more troubke starting tgis new journey without your insights!
Definitely add Alan! That was too funny! Mayo but actually can't stand either. I am so very excited about you developing courses! I feel like the more I watch, the more I need to know. Keep us posted when you launch!
I love the vids!! They're very informative!! ..... Here's an idea. (This is probably a thing, but I haven't seen it). I make small batch soy candles and like most have air bubbles and sink holes. I got sick of the heat gun method of finishing the candle off, so I had the idea to buy a vacuum chamber. I put the candles in right after I pour them, achieve a vacuum and let them harden inside. Poof! No air bubbles or sink holes. They may need a super quick pass with the heat gun just to even the top out, but that's it. Oh, and the process seems to infuse the fragrance better, but that might just be me. In the end, candles are an endless experiment, so why not try different things to try and improve them, right? :)
Starting out with 464. Exactly my problem. I’m kinda relieved to find this is so common. I thought it was me and my mind started to go negative. This gives me confidence. What other wax type do you recommend for the clear 8 oz salsa jar? Thank you so much. Have learned a lot from you
Lol. Ty. I get torn on intros because i love trying to make good good or funny ones. But I often hurts video views because many people want to get straight to content or they drop off. So... its a struggle. 😅🤣 glad you like them though. That makes me happy.
This is exactly the problem I have with 464. I saw Jeff Standley's video showing this concept. I've used a metal cooking skewer. Your level of detail adds value and understanding to the technique. I'd rather have a perfect pour. But if a hack does the trick so be it!!
🙏🏻 🖤 I have been waiting (semi) patiently for this video. I really needed this information and am genuinely grateful for it. I don’t know why this has me so freaked out but couldn’t find a truly informative video that helped really break it down as to then when. Love all of your videos, but this is THE one for me. Thank you!!! And please keep bringing your alter e…🤬 😆 associate Alan around. He’s a keeper. Mayo. Miracle Whip is vomit inducing.
I appreciate all of the time and effort you put into these videos. I have learned so much that has helped me with my candle business. Also neither too! I can't stand any sort of Mayo!
MAYO!!! Miracle whip 😝 Thanks for the video! If you want to make one or tag one that you have made about the oils on the top of the candles. What did I do wrong?
Try using less oil especially if it's a heavy one. Stir longer maybe. Ate you sure it's oil on top of humidity or maybe your wax just softening up from temp or humidity?
Question of the video: Mustard!!! I'm with you hate them both. I use beeswax and have sink hole, or those sink circles lol. Not many You tube videos on beeswax sinkholes. Would this help my issues. LOVE your energy btw.
This was super helpful! I do have a question, do you have a recommendation for 6006 regarding how long you would wait to poke the holes? I use jelly jars, 8oz with wood wicks. I've been waiting 24hrs which is too long based on your video, so any ball park range of time would be helpful for me to start trying to do it sooner!
If i had to guess... probably 4-6 hours. And then adjust if that is too long or not long enough. Sometimes it might take doing it twice if its temperamental! lol
Never tried.... but Probably. However those waxes tend to "squeeze out" bubbles better on their own as the contract and shrink. And with pillar waxes you tend to pour hotter letting bubbles escape better too. Pour slow and try to prevent bubbles as possible with pillar waxes. But sure don't see why this wouldn't still work. :)
Sinkholes become such an issue for me, and idk everyone praises they hear hun but it seems even when I do that they still spear once it starts to dry, I even heated the glasses and poured at 145f
When I think of Mayonnaise or Miracle Whip, I think of everything that is wrong with the world! Suffering, disease, pestilence. It's like they captured the essence of all those things in those two condiments!
Hello, have you tried making a candle that you put less of FO, and you want to correct it by poking in like 4 holes and filling it with more wax and FO and using the heat gun to melt and even it out? For getting a better hot throw
Dear Thomas, one more case which I couldn't find an answer. Would be grateful if you could help. Just burned my candle and faced cauliflower top after blowing it. I do understand that FO or dye could cause for this look. What is the main procedure in order to avoid cauliflower top? Thanks a lot dear.
I'm assuming your using igi 464 or a similar wax? Here is a video (part of a current series) where in working with people on different waxes to fight problems like this. If this isn't the issue, I'd need more info problem. I would suggest trying different pour Temps, make sure no waste is in wax, and limit FO to the max for that wax
@@BlackTieBarn yes exactly, wax is 464. To be honest I tried EO only and % was 6 max. I will test it again with different pour temp. Let's see how it works)) thanks a lot.
The key is doing it when the wax is still malleable to a degree. So as your poking it's filling in a bit. The idea is to disrupt it a bit. Yes... if not done properly it could add air. But some waxes like 464 and others have it underneath darn near everytime. Relief holes or second pours are often a must in this situations
I’m following your advice but bubbles keep coming. I’ve already repeated the process three times on the same candles. Am I doing something wrong? Do I need to make deeper holes? More holes?
Only poke holes if you need to. And umbubbles are coming up is fine.. they are releasing. It's the trapped ones that cause problems. You may try not poking any holes to see if all goes well
Depends on the wax. Pouring hotter means even more shrinkage. Which would hurt. But hotter also means easier for bubbles to rise and pop. So that helps. Cooler temp means less shrinkage but can also crack if cooled too quickly. Lol. So it really depends on wax and experimentation
@@Lostinstarsss Check out this video when you have time. Goes into a lot more detail on using wood wicks: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rJoupR9oh0Q.html But, the short answer is that it depends on type of wax and if it needs more heat or that extra boost. most soft and low melt point waxes dont need it unless they are all soy or something like that. It just really varies by wax type and jar size.
@@BlackTieBarn Thank you!!! It's been so difficult to find people with knowledge of wood wicks but I love them! The ambience they offer is spectacular IMO.
I did this and it looked great once the wax dried on the top. Then when I lit it, you could see where I poked the holes and that bugged me. Any way around that? Should I melt a little more of the top layer with the heat gun?
This was mentioned in the video. Wax shrinks as it cools. And it will pull to bottom and sides first. Here is another video (there are two video parts, here is part 1) that talks about this and other issues as well. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1T4ll5FtGI8.html
No, that is a result of wax type as far as surface appearance goes. But yes.... it would help prevent wicks drawing out. But as a reminder... this isn't always necessary. Just helps with certain waxes sometimes.
@@BlackTieBarn I use 464 wax. I've never had that issue you describe with a wick, but I do notice pockets that look like air pockets on the surface after a second and third burn. I was wondering if those would be minimized if I tried your technique when the candle is setting. Thanks.
@@amykeating8952 hi Amy, unfortunately no. What you are seeing after burning the candle is the result of most soy waxes and heavy soy/coco blends. That weird cratering, crystalization, etc is from the type of wax. Your candle could be perfect with no sink holes whatsoever. However, what you are seeing can show up after burning. only real optoin is other waxes or additives.
Hey! Thank you! After I did this method with 2nd pour, I got a few air bubbles on top, which was obviously from the holes which I created.. Any advice on how to prevent air bubbles forming? I don't want to use heat gun as if I'm doing a 2nd pour it should make it not necessary
It can happen, but usually air bubbles on top is of they didn't have a chance to rise and pop. You might want to raise your pour temp a bit. Also try difference times to poke the roles and fill. Meaning, wait longer or wait less time. Can't really give a hard answer because it depends on size of jar, shape of jar, type of wax, etc
@@BlackTieBarn thank you! How long after poking holes would you recommend to 2nd fill? If you need content ideas ;) Would be amazing if you could do a video on it using 2nd pour method, c3 wax which is prone to holes with a container which gives them also..say 9oz amber jar ;) I don't see much info out there on this! Thanks
You mean the sinkholes? Yes for sure. The wick can drown out or be too small which all but eliminate your hit throw. Just be careful anytime filling in with a heat gun for example not to have it too hot and scorch the wax on top
My candles have cottage cheese areas on the surface of my candle after I have burned it, not near the wick. Also I didn’t let it cure. I waited only 24 hrs., could that cause it?
Thanks for the video! I've been having issues when working with a heat gun, though, so I'm hesitant to do this with a heat gun. My tops don't reset smoothly, rather a bit sandy or with swirls. Sometimes, I even get a puddle a few days afterwards, and I use mostly 8% so it shouldn't be a problem of too much FO (I use 464.) Any idea what can be wrong? I've been wondering if it has to do with my mixing temp, I add FO at 65°C.
Yah that happens sometimes too. Try doing lower heat or being further away. Also this happens more if the wax was too solidified by then. Try doing it a bit sooner. I'm not a super fan of using a heat gun. I try to avoid it as much as possible. But it can help in a crunch when needed. :)
@@BlackTieBarn I think the problem with the oil puddle was caused by topping it way too late, after it was solid. But lately I've been trying to go over with the heat gun before it solidifies too much and still get a sandy top 😩 will try keeping it further away. Thanks for the tips :)
Hi I m not sure what happened but I poke many holes with a flat wooden toothpick all around the container when it solidified almost 20 hours. The top look super rocky lumpy all around n look more like an ice cream textured now after its had cooled down. There are so many air bubbles when I heat gun them that it kinda look like a sia effect lol. I m guessing it's Most probably due to me poking holes all the way down to the bottom kinda like me creating sinkholes n air bubbles now Haha. Not exactly sure what happened but these r definitely ruined. It's ok since it's my 1st burn test n it's kinda good to see n learn. Btw I was using 2 type 444 soy & coconut soy blend in tin, n glass straight up containers. I m also wondering if there's a limited number of x that a wax can take heat b4 it get'overcooked?🤔I m gg to try heat gun again wish me luck!
Don't worry. We have all ruined some batches.:) I think 20 hours is too long personally but it really depends on the wax so I can't say for sure.and sometimes relief holes aren't the way to go if not necessary. It's more of a "emergency fix" in many cases. Yes.... you can hest wax too high and too often (soy waxes) as the organic material can literally beak down. But it takes a lot for thst to happen generally.
Experiment with different pour temperatures. Most waxes shrink a bit as they cool which causes the caving. Try different pour Temps or same more waxes. :)
The poking isn't to relieve air bubbles. Poking helps exposee sink holes and cavities to fill in. Air bubbles are cause by overstepping or pouring too cool that the bubbles can't rise and pop
@@BlackTieBarn I actually worm my aluminium mould. But still air pockets happens around the wick. I also poked around Wick and repoured but still air pockets doesn't come.
Only occasionally and when experimenting. It's useful for makers dealing with sink hole issues and with specific waxes. It's not necessary in most cases. I tried to discuss that a bit on the video but it really just depends
The air small pockets of air made by looking holes fix themselves instantly. That isn't the point of this tip. Yes.... you make small ones that release quickly. But many waxes have hidden cavities underneath and the only way to expose them and fill them in is to poke relief holes and fill them in. This is NOT something I recommend all the time or tell people you need to always do. But there are certain waxes that are bad about and people struggle with this issue. So doing this can help fix those. It's been a common practice for decades.
The air small pockets of air made by looking holes fix themselves instantly. That isn't the point of this tip. Yes.... you make small ones that release quickly. But many waxes have hidden cavities underneath and the only way to expose them and fill them in is to poke relief holes and fill them in. This is NOT something I recommend all the time or tell people you need to always do. But there are certain waxes that are bad about and people struggle with this issue. So doing this can help fix those. It's been a common practice for decades.
