I have too say thanks for the info on the cheek piece .My fx was shooting loads of flyers and got too work with my Dremel ie I looked at it loads of ruff plastic and looks different from the rest of the cheek piece .Huge fix now it works like it should have when I got it easy fix Many Thanks!!! for this info.
Great video, extremely helpful to troubleshoot potential problems. I purchased a maverick today and straight out of the box (foam padded case) the bloody thing is miles out of alignment. My first shots were a full 3 mil radian out in windage to get it centered at 40 metres. Running a straight edge down the side showed just how badly aligned it is. It's hard to believe they send rifles out like this. I watched this video a while ago so I remembered you showed how to align it properly, and the reasons they can be misaligned. At this point I am assuming poor workmanship as it came in a decent rifle case so I very much doubt it is from mishandling. Hopefully my local airgun retailer will swap it out as it's already been months of waiting and lots of $$$ spent. I've seen others stating the same problem to. I rolled the dice and hoped for a good one but guess I lucked out. Keep up the good work, and the great vids. Cheers.
Is it possible to square up the blocks and realign the top rail assembly without disassembling the rifle, by just loosening all the bolts and realigning them maybe? Also, when you put your rifle back together were you able to achieve true 0 mechanical alignment of the scope or was it still a little out?
Hi Sub12, thanks for the reply about the removing the cheek piece on my maverick the groups have tightened up which is brill. Have spoken to sportsmanguncentre and they have a solution they sending me a new cheek piece thanks again for the help and as always your vids and explanations are just brilliant. Thumbs-up 👍
I must’ve missed something. removing the cheek piece does what? I honestly couldn’t imagine shooting it without one. I would have to hover my head to get scope alignment
@@chewyfknrocks the cheek piece was misaligning my pellet mag on the maverick each time I load a pellet the pellet was damaged before exiting the barrel.by removing the cheek piece the pellet mag would align properly. I cut a piece out of cheek piece to rectify the problem hope this helps
I see. On further inspection- and very interestingly so- the inside of my cheek rest looks like it has been modified some. More so than what would only be the magazine rubbing on it. I received only a month ago from Utah airguns. I’ve not had issues with any pellet except for an occasional fussy HN terminator (inherent design I suspect). They are still very accurate however.
Excellent video, to make life easier for me on the wildcat I made a carbon sleeve to go over the barrel between the block and bracket were you got your 74.6 mm measurements. One other point is, the sharp bits you polished off with the stone may have been there to align the scope rail to the cylinder brackets and to stop it shifting when in use like the impact does. These should have been installed with shoulder bolts, not standard bolts. Fx have messed up big time by not including allinment slots or at least dowel pins for alignment. This will be the first thing I do to my Maverick if it ever gets here.
Great idea, I like that, the sharp bits were defiantly not alignment pins, they looked like tool marks left over from when A lathe tool is slightly under the center line. Shoulder bolts would have been better but the rail is so thin that I don't think (without custom fixings) that you could get bolts suitable. What the Impact, maverick and Wildcat lack is definite alignment point, like you say a set of dowel pins on each of the components and respective holes in the matching parts, so that its impossible to get the parts misaligned, this would also stop and movement in the rifle as it is fired or used, but I guess this would be very expensive for FX to do effectively. Thanks for watching.
@@sub12airgunners Pleasure watching. What they should have is a location slot like the Dreamline has. What i like about the wildcat is the barrel clamps have a dovetail location for the rail so its always fixed securely and aligned and cannot shift. I think I'll be either milling a key way in the rail and barrel clamps or replacing for the wildcat barrel clamps and wildcat rail (If compatible) Happy tinkering. Ps, whats your ebay handle so I can get a valve and reg puller from you.
Hello and fantastic videos on the Maverick. I was wondering if it is safe using lithium grease in the areas you’ve shown. I always thought silicone grease or oil was the only thing to use. Thank you!!
Liking your videos, great work I'm just wondering if you will be doing other popular brands that are more affordable, walther, kral, bsa, artemis etc as I think you would gain subscribers and also help people that may not able to afford sending there air rifle in for a seal change or a small problem that may be fixable at home. Keep up the good work and thank you for the videos so far.
Thanks for the question, yep I do plan to in the future, I am not sponsored by anyone though so all the rifles you see on the channel are mine or very good friends, so I have to buy or borrow them. I do want to do a series in the future with a budget end PCP and see how good we can make it with some modifications, like starting off with stuff anyone can do (polishing triggers etc) then moving on to re machining parts and barrels. But they are future projects and will be more appealing when the ranges fully open back up. Thanks for watching.
The standard and compact mavericks use the same barrel length the shroud is just a different length, both use 500mm barrels, the FAC/ sniper editions use 600+700mm long barrels. Thanks for watching.
@@sub12airgunners thanks for the info! I've got the compact so was wondering what the difference would have been. Cheers appreciate the reply and the effort that goes in to these videos- they're invaluable 👍🏻
I would go for the .22 if caliber is not important, the .22 mags are easier to load, the rifle is a little quieter and you get more shots, .22 and .177 have the roughly the same accuracy and .22 are better for hunting, but if you plan on doing bench rest or paper punching the .177 may be the better option, but I recommend the .22. thanks for watching.
Solid information from a very capable person. Thank you. I just received my Maverick, but have been shooting the FX Boss for years. The trigger in the Maverick is quite poor compared to the Boss. I have it adjusted to it's limits, but do you have any thoughts on improving the trigger linkage system on the Maverick to reduce slop? It's definitely not a joy to shoot at this time. Thanks for all.
Not without major modification to be honest, the trigger linkage is a bit flimsy and would require a bit of work to get it to work properly, my idea was to remove the original linkage and replace it with a thicker one with a rotor joint at each end, this would remove the play in the motion and make it a bit more direct, not sure if ill get round to it though as I don't like the Maverick enough to spend a lot of time on it. Thanks for watching.
Is the inside of the hammer supposed to be polished smooth? Mine has milling marks (like shallow screw threads), and I think this is a defective part-should be smooth. Do you know?
Its not polished smooth from the factory, and mine had some very very light marks on the inside but it was not rough to the touch, you could polish it smooth if you like, but unless its really rough it should not cause much trouble with the operation of the rifle. Thanks for watching.
This is an awesome video my friend, really helpful. Do you have a cure against the cocking handle pin that keeps falling out? The one that's nearest to the air tube. Another question about the belleville washers. Do you think there's a difference in the way these are stacked (thin / thick on the bottom or top) between sub 12 and full power guns?
Hi yes the pin falling out is common, i just used a small dab of baring lock on one end of the pin😀 the sub 12 washers are much thinner than the full power ones but i believe the stack in the same sub 12 have 10 normally and i have seen 12 on full power guns
@@sub12airgunners Thanks for responding. It's strange that FX (among others) makes such nice guns while lacking to improve the "little obvious things". Great idea, baring lock 🙂
Hello, I recently purchased a fx maverick and I was I threaded in purchasing your PTFE parts for the maverick. I live in the USA so not sure where to purchse them. Are they still available for purchase.
I have been told the sub 12 models have the same internals as the high power? Just massively de tuned from factory? I have a slot on my ticket and fancy converting it myself. Don't want to sell my baby and then buy a high power one, rather do it myself. Will i need morel parts for converting it? Cheers
I have seen some valve seats that look a little different, they are much thicker and don't have the cutaway at the rear of the seat, quite uncommon in the rifles I have seen but not unheard of, could you try fitting an o ring around the groove in the tool and using it like a puller, the o ring might give you enough friction on the seat to remove it. Thanks for watching.
My 1st regulator stuck @ 90bar max. Won’t go up any farther! Could you please give a tutorial how to set 1st reg @ 150bar ? Is there any washer settings need to be replaced?
Did you open the back reg fully first? if not you need to open the back reg fully then adjust the front one, if you did then you need to replace the beleville washers in the front with thicker ones, the FAC ones are normally 0.5mm or 0.55mm thick and the stack is usually the same ()()()()()(. Thanks for watching.
Hi, could be a couple of things, first check you have not adjusted the hammer spring adjuster to far out, second just check the cocking rail (long silver rod) make sure the grub screws securing the cocking arm are tight and in the right place, you should be able to see the marks where the grub screws were tightened at the factory. and double check you have the right distance between the block and the rear scope riser block. Thanks for watching.
@@sub12airgunners i checked the hammer spring adjuster and it was spot on 5.8mm, i realized the cocking rod had unscrewed its self a bit during disassembly, once I returned that to its original position everything worked fine, thanks for your reply and help.
Great Video. Thank you. I managed to disassemble and reassemble mine while watching your videos and they were perfect. One question please. You mention when checking the pellet probe make sure it doesn't stand proud when cock. If this happens how do you adjust it?. Thank you. (mines standing a couple of mile proud when cocked.
