Mercedes Intake Manifold Replacement (Fast Method) C350/E35 3.5L M272 V6 Engine *W203* 

Thanks for the comments, glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck on your future Mercedes projects. Cheers!

Congrats on getting your project done Don. Glad the video was helpful and informative, appreciate the feedback. Cheers!

Glad you enjoyed the video, appreciate the feedback. Congrats on getting your repair done. Cheers!

Thanks for the comments Robert, glad you enjoyed the video. That's good info to know about how Mercedes has changed their philosophy on building cars. Cheers!

Thanks for the feedback, appreciate the kind words. Glad the video helped you with your Mercedes-Benz repair. Cheers!

Thanks for the kind words Mango, glad you enjoyed the video. My son runs the camera and more importantly, does all the editing, which really makes the difference. Cheers!

My manifold has been stuck open for the longest, I’ll be switching to a composite manifold from a slk350, it has a bigger throttle body and no actuators. But I’ll have to buy the throttle body elbow and a 82mm throttle body. Just throwing it out there but this is very helpful. I’m no mechanic but consider myself a handy man and the way this was demonstrated and explained will be very useful when it’s time to replace my manifold. Shop wants over a grand for this repair. Heck, I’m confident I can do this myself! Thanks again

@@Lymeng25 Sounds like a sweet upgrade to eliminate the issues with these manifolds. Glad our video will be helpful to you with your project. We are confident you can save a ton of $$$ by doing it yourself. Good luck, Cheers!

Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. Enjoy that W211, Cheers!

Thanks for the feedback, glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck on your Mercedes project. Cheers!

Glad the video could help you with your project Hoseok. Appreciate the feedback, Cheers!

Appreciate the feedback Grim, glad the video helped you out. Congrats on getting your project done, Cheers!

Thanks for the kind words Rodriguez, glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck on your Mercedes project. Cheers!

Glad you enjoyed the video Larry, appreciate the feedback. Hope the video helps you with your project, Cheers!

Glad you are enjoying the content, thanks for hanging out, Cheers!

Thanks for the kind words, appreciate the feedback. Glad you enjoyed the video, good luck on your Mercedes project. Cheers!

Thanks for the comments, good luck on your Mercedes project. Let us know how it goes and what you discover. Cheers!

Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers!

Thanks for the kind words Peter, glad the video helped you out on your Mercedes project. Appreciate you hanging out, Cheers!

Thanks for the comments, glad you enjoyed the video. It sounds like you performed some preventative maintenance on your MBZ. Those plastic levers will fail at some point so if you were able to replace then you saved a ton by not having to replace the intake manifold. Good luck on your Mercedes project. Cheers!

​@@BradleysGarage I bought my wife a 2008 clk350 convertable two years ago. I've watched many videos of repairs needing to be done on these. I like her car a lot, so I just got me one too. It probably needs everything I've replaced on her car already. I learned a lot working on her car. I even took the intake manifold apart to make sure there were no broken lever type pieces inside. I got this job done on mine a lot faster than when I did it on hers. I need to veify which mounts need replaced. Hers only needed the driver's side motor mount. This one clunks in first gear. I can feel and see it with the shifter. It also needs control arms replaced. I'm familiar with it all now from my wife's car. This one does need the oil cooler seal replaced. I haven't done that on her car yet. When I replaced that plastic part on hers, the new metal one had the ball part that snaps in that was too big, so it was too tight for the levers to move freely. I had to rebuild the aftermarket part with the old original parts to make it work properly. I always say that if I wasn't a mechanic, I couldn't afford my cars. LOL I save a ton of money fixing it myself.

@@shark70007000 Thanks for sharing, these German cars definitely take some patience but when they are running great they are a pleasure to drive. You just don't get that experience driving a Kia or Toyota. Good luck on your Mercedes projects. Cheers!

Glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching. I'm confident you can tackle the repair on your Mercedes. Good luck with your project. Cheers!

Thanks for the kind words Oliver, appreciate the feedback. Glad you enjoyed the video, good luck on your Mercedes-Benz project. Cheers!

Hey V6 Power Junkie, Glad the video helped get you motivated to tackle this project yourself. Good luck on your repair, let us know how everything goes, Cheers!

Hia it worked great, Thanx for a superb video, it's been 3 days now and all is well and runs great, Gaf. 😊

That's great news Junkie, glad to hear the repair went smooth, congrats on getting it done. Thanks again for following up and letting us know, Cheers!

Glad you enjoyed the video Jerry, appreciate the feedback. Good luck with your Mercedes-Benz project. Let us know how the repair goes, Cheers!

Thanks CH, glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck on your project, Cheers!

Thanks for the kind words Wilfredo, glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers!

Thanks for the kind words Martinni, I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers!

Thanks for the comments Bill, 👍 Cheers!

Thanks for the comments Tat, glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers!

Glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for the comments, Cheers!

Hey Puneet, there is only one vacuum line that goes to the top of the throttle body which you can see around the 12:10 mark in the video. The other line that is towards the passenger side and hooks directly into the manifold itself (12:00 mark) is the brake booster line which connects to the brake booster itself. In the front, you just have to remember to hook up the small vacuum line that comes off the control valve. Around the 23:45 mark in the video you can get an idea of the location. I know it's tough to see but just look at the front of the new manifold closely before installing so you get the idea of where that attaches. Hope this helps with your project, Cheers!

@@BradleysGarage Is there an option to send a photo or video to show the situation in my car. In your video 12:00, it show brake booster is coming from the driver side towards the back wall. I don't see brake booster tube in my car? I did hook the small vacuum line to manifold like your video showed. But, there's another tube of same thickness which is coming from the front of the car and long enough to the back of the car. Video 6:57 shows a tube with yellow ring close to a round disk shape silver color. I have a similar tube next to it. Any help will be appreciated.

@@puneetsavita Let me know what year and model you have? Also, you can use this site to upload pictures for free and share the link here so I can take a look. imgbb.com/ Cheers!

@@BradleysGarage 2006 C230 Sports. Uploaded the photos.

@@puneetsavita I see why you are having trouble. While the engines have some similarities, the method and locations of some of the parts are in different locations. Here is a video that is specifically for your model, the C230 - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eXxkOXNvQjA.html The 3.5L motor is a little bit different but the process will generally be the same. Apologies that we haven't done the repair on a C230 before. Good luck with your project, Cheers!

Thanks for the kind words, appreciate the feedback. How the video helped you with your project. Cheers!

Glad you enjoyed the video, good luck on your Mercedes project. Cheers!

Hey Roth, thanks for the comments. I may have not been 100% clear in the video about disconnecting the battery but that is typical for these repairs. The metal tabs on the gaskets seem to work pretty well. I am always concerned about them slipping during the assembly process but all is good. Appreciate the feedback and thanks for the other responses to other questions raised here. Cheers!

Thanks for the comments Michael, appreciate the feedback. Hope the video helped you with your project, Cheers!

Glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for hanging out, Cheers!

@@BradleysGarage I just finished mine I’m still getting the check engine light P0170 fuel trim bank 1. I’m 🤔 now it could be the o2 sensors?

@Heyboy's Garage I would try cleaning the MAF first just to see if you get any change. On mine, the intake repair only lasted a month before the check engine light came back on. It had a rough idle and terrible gas smells at idle, plus it would go through a 1/2 tank of fuel in 50 miles so it was obviously running a bit rich. The difficulty with MB cars is that the generic codes don't typically offer much help. Since we don't have the MB Star system I ended up taking it to a local indy shop that does. He ran the scans and diagnosed the front O2 sensors (upstream) were bad. After swapping those in we haven't had any issues with the car. I am assuming since we drove around with the faulty intake manifold flaps for quite some time, we ended up burning up the O2 sensors. Then when we got the manifold fixed, they O2 sensors didn't know what to do. I wasn't getting the P0170 code (mine were P0171 & P0174) but here are the most common reasons why you might be getting the P0170- Intake air leaks Faulty front heated oxygen sensor Ignition misfiring Faulty fuel injectors Exhaust gas leaks Incorrect fuel pressure Lack of fuel Faulty Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor Incorrect Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose connection Let us know how it goes, Cheers!

​@@BradleysGarage Update! After the Intake manifold swap. I was able to drive a 103 miles that day with no check engine light. with all monitors completed so I was able to pass emission! I have a video on my channel showing exactly what was wrong with the intake manifold. The inner components on one side was bad and so I figured that was the problem. Well the next day drove in heavy traffic and the check engine light came back on for the same Code Fuel Trime Bank 1 (P0170) I though the bad intake manifold was the problem.

@@HeyboysGarage Like I mentioned above. there may have been some secondary damage caused by the faulty Intake Manifold. Not sure how long you drove around with that issue before the repair? If it was more than a few weeks, then you might have issues with the O2 sensors since they would be getting incorrect amounts of fuel, especially during the cold starts with the bad intake flaps. Did you try the quick MAF cleaning to see if it had any impact? Let me know what you find, Cheers!

Hey Pat, thanks for the comments, glad you stopped by to see the video. The specific codes that are usually present with the Intake Manifold issue are P2004, P2005, P2006 and in some cases P2187 and P2189. The current cost from the intake manifold ($717) has gone up since we posted this video but if you want to tackle it yourself, you can still save a bunch of cash. Another option would be to purchase the manifold from FCP Euro and then take that brand new part to the shop for installation. Then you can just pay for the labor to swap it out which will save you on the part cost, since shops like to make money off of that as well. Good luck on your project, feel free to reach out anytime if you have any additional questions. Cheers!

Thanks for the question Chris. Even with the OEM Mercedes intake manifold gaskets, the little hole that is designed to be pressed over the little nipple on the manifold is really a terrible design. They don't want to stay on and can fall off right when you are placing the manifold into place. A little trick it to just add some High Tack Gasket Sealant to a couple of those nipples to add a little adhesion so the metal gasket won't fall of during installation. It might need 5-30 minutes (depending on weather) to be tacky enough to be held in place but it should help with the installation. www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-super-high-tack-gasket-sealant-1-75-oz/ Let us know how it goes with your Mercedes intake manifold replacement. Cheers!

@@BradleysGarage thank you so much for your detailed response!! :) Yeh, I added a small small dab of silicon seal to those little hole, waited overnight for the silicon seal to dry. But it still came out, and the gasket was bent a few times in the process of installing... Got there at the end just an hour ago, just hoping there won't be any leaks 😄 Thank you again for the super informative video, definitely couldn't have done it without your video!!! Wishing you a lovely new year too!

@@chriskong9074 Happy New Year to you as well Chris. Glad you got it sorted, it can be a bit tricky to set it down in there. We had the luxury of filming it after having it off multiple time to try to fix the flaps, which was a lost cause. Therefore we decided to make the video to show the easiest way to go about replacing the intake manifold. Glad you enjoyed the video, thanks again for hanging out. Cheers!

Hey Ethan, sorry to hear you are having trouble with the Mercedes Intake repair. It sounds like there is an electrical connection that is not connected properly. The first thing to check is to make sure the ECU/DME on the top bracket is securely plugged back in. It might also be the crankshaft position sensor located on the back of the engine by the throttle body/MAF assembly on the drivers side. Next I would check to make sure all (4) camshaft position sensors (front of the motor) are secure as well. These are the most obvious reasons for a crank no start condition but I have a feeling like it will probably be the Crankshaft Position Sensor is the culprit. You also might be able to view an engine code with a generic scan tool if something has appeared during the cranking process. This may help in pinpointing the location of the issue as well if the above do not solve the concern. Please let us know what you discover, Cheers!

Hey Caique, thanks for the question. We had 147k miles when we did the repair. It's currently sitting at 154k miles and we've had no issues or problems. Thanks for watching, Cheers!

Hey Stephen, apologies for not responding sooner, it seems RU-vid decided to bury this message somehow. It sounds like you have done all the common maintenance items that should solve this issue. Mercedes is very picky about the MAF and Plugs so make sure they were Bosch. Just curious what brand of parts do you decide to go with for the repairs? And did any of the above repairs have ANY impact whatsoever on the rough idle? It might be a good idea to locate someone with a MB specific scan tool to look deeper into the system. Normal OBD scanner just don't look at the necessary info in order to diagnose on a deeper level for these MB cars. That being said, here are some thoughts in order of likely issue: -First, try throttle reset procedure Turn the key to ON position. Position II that is. Don’t start the car. Press and hold the gas pedal for at least five seconds. Keep the pedal pressed. Turn ignition off but do not remove the key. Now release the gas pedal. Remove key. Wait a minute before you restart your Mercedes. This allows resetting the High and Low points of the gas pedal. It also resets the transmission shift points to factory settings. Don’t worry you can’t cause any damage with this reset. -Vacuum leaks - the EGR covers start to leak and or the rubber tubing on the covers can go hard, split and leak air. A Smoke machine to test for any other leaks would be helpful since you mentioned that you replaced the EGR already. -Crankshaft positioner starting to fail - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JTyrmJYTbxM.html -Camshaft magnetic adjusters starting to fail - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_yorRPL5ZTQ.html -Camshaft positioning sensor starting to fail - (Video for the magnetic adjusters above show this part removal) -Transmission flush/service -Belt tensioner & Idler pulley - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0OWUK8iMVKo.html If you can get a MB specific scan, that would be ideal. I would hate for you to "throw" more parts at it in the dark. Good luck and let us know how it goes, Cheers!

Thank you for taking the time to respond. Spark plugs were Bosch as well as MAF. I'm stumped. I replaced transmission Fluid about a year ago....without a flush. I tried putting in redline fuel injector cleaner in the gas ...no real change. I did the gas pedal procedure 4 times without much change...maybe a little improvement. I have the Autel reader....not sure if MB scanner is what I need. Haven't don't leak test....hoses all look okay...but of course that doesn't mean it's not faulty. Have u heard of a slight rough idle at the stop...but placing in neutral....idle dissappears? Thank you

Stephen, the MB specific scanner can provide more information than a standard OBD-II scanner. I would look into performing a smoke test to see if you have any small vacuum leaks. This can definitely cause the idle issues you are experiencing. The MB seems to be very picky about small leaks. Let us know how things go after the smoke test. Cheers!

Hey Mike, thanks for the question, glad you enjoyed the video. We used the Pierburg manifold on this repair. This is the OEM factory brand for Mercedes. You can pick one up here from FCP Euro and be covered with their lifetime warranty. Intake Manifold: www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-engine-intake-manifold-700246330 Not sure where you are located but we are in SoCal. Please feel free to reach out to us over on our Instagram account. instagram.com/BradleyGarage/ Cheers!

Thank you very much... the MAP sensor area removal looks hard.. FCP parts are great, thanks..what tap & Die number to use?.@@BradleysGarage

@@mikeovanes Hey Mike, the tap you will need for the new Intake Manifold is an M6x1.00 You shouldn't need to drill anything since the holes are already there. You are just adding the threads so it's pretty easy since it's aluminum. Let us know how the repair goes, Cheers!

Hey Bill, apologies for the late reply. I will take a look at the Mercedes and see if I can identify the harness you are referring to. It might take me a couple days before I can get to it. Thanks for your patience. Cheers!

Ok it is the shortest wire on the harness that is at the 17 min mark that comes to the driver side injectors it looks just like and injected plug but it not to the manifold or a fuel injector, besides those two there is the bigger plug that goes to the housing on the manifold ( the four holt housing at bottom of manifold u have to bolt on from the old manifold ) so besides those plugs there’s a 2 prong plug with no extra length whatsoever that is choked by a zip tie , can’t see where it goes , hope that explains what I’m lookin for . Thx for replying

Also I’m cleaning the fuel injectors

Hey Hollow, since they are pretty inexpensive it would be a good idea to just replace them, since they are out. We recommend the following - intake manifold, gaskets, throttle body gasket, elbow red seal, PCV and spark plugs if they haven't been done recently. I would also clean the MAF with the appropriate cleaner while it's off. After all this, I would say you should be running sweet again. Good luck on your project, Cheers!

@@BradleysGarage great hearing this makes me feel better I have replaced everything u said on this car and my mechanic says he did the balance shaft job so I’m feeling very confident after I do this it will run like a dream again idk if I said this but I’m at 165k and she’s been a wonder only owned it for 30k miles and been thru 2 accidents in it one my fault cause of traction control and me being a 19 at the time other was a suicide lane other lady at fault she was driving in it like a lane 🤦‍♂️ but still was running strong Mercs are built like tanks always and forever

We only had 143k when the intake flapper issue started to occur. After the Pierburg manifold, we have not had any issues. I am confident yours will be running better than ever after you get it buttoned up. Have fun with your project, Cheers!

@@BradleysGarage thank you much appreciated was working on it when you sent this halfway there whoop whoop have fuel injector rail off and cleaning them since I’m broke rn but this wasn’t a complex job at all at least till it’s time to put back together 😂 video helps a lot much appreciated take care and keep doing what you do 🤘🤘

Thanks for the kind words Guido, glad you enjoyed the video. Our C350 had 145K miles on it when the flaps failed and started causing issues. It has now been 10k miles and absolutely no issues whatsoever. You are still at a very low mileage (around 84K miles) so I would think you shouldn't have any problems for a couple years. What year is your car? You can definitely wait until the problem arises, since the car is still drivable and will not leave you stranded. Let us know if you decide to go ahead and swap out the intake. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!

@@BradleysGarage thank you for quick reply! Mine is a 2006 Modell. I own IT for about four years. Really No Trouble so far..... I try to do every Work in my Cars and Bikes in my own. So this Kind of Videos are a great Help for the Community . BR. Guido

Thanks for the comments Irani. We didn't talk about it in the video but the original removal footage got corrupted during filming. Unfortunately we did not discover this until after the old manifold was removed. Since we wanted to have a comprehensive tutorial, we had no choice but to re-shoot the manifold removal using the new one. Also, while we were in there doing the manifold repair, we decided to replace the common maintenance items, PCV and MAF along with the rubber gasket. Now we can be confident that we will not have any future issues with the car, at least related to these common items. Cheers!

@@BradleysGarage Thanks for explanation. It is just looking funny watching the brand new items being removed to fix what. It is an odd feeling to see that. Cheers.

Hey Adam, thanks for the comments, glad you enjoyed the video. We decided to go with the Pierburg intake manifold since it's the OEM brand that Mercedes uses. Not sure about the quality of the Chinese ones but having the aluminum flapper part is for sure an upgrade. Guess we figured the original one lasted 15 years before it finally failed so going with the OEM style felt like a good decision. You might be able to use the screws as "self-tapping" but we found it to easier to tap the holes so we could be sure we are getting the proper bite when tightening everything down. Good luck on your repair, let us know how things go, Cheers!

@@BradleysGarage Thanks for that reply, was wondering how I would be able to tell if my intake is bad or leaking when I have no codes. Wanted to be certain this part is bad before I change because I don't think I have the flapper issue. However I have a loud whistling noise coming from the front of the intake manifold and when I sprayed it with brake clean it went away... also the engine started to shake when I did this. I was thinking this meant I have a crack or the gaskets are bad but am not sure as it's very hard to see the intake manifold in the engine. The engine also stutters intermittently kind of like a small misfire but again no codes, I can feel it in the cabin very mildly and also it is so minor that the rpms do not even fluctuate on the dial.

Hey Adam, I will take a look at the vacuum hoses that go to the flappers. They can rot and get cracked but typically will throw a code. They are located in the front behind the Secondary Air Pump. Is this where you were spraying the brake cleaner, the front of the intake manifold? Let us know, Cheers!

@@BradleysGarage that is exactly wheee I was spraying behind the air pump. Also it’s been very hot lately like 100+ and recently cooled down and now the noise appears to be less. Would the heat maybe effect these hoses possibly expanding them more? I had actually bought some hoses at autozone because I kind of thought this may be the case but not sure if I require special vacuum hose. I bought some 3mm and 4mm ID silicone vacuum hose.

@@Dnasty1 Heat can definitely play a factor. Our vacuum lines just disintegrated when we touched them. It seemed like they may have still been working but they were shot for sure. But we obviously had the flap issue since it was broken once the intake was removed. You could take off the air pump and swap out those vacuum lines. Then see how things run and drive before jumping on the manifold project. You can also take a look at the flap mechanism with the air pump off, just to see how things look. Let us know how it goes, Cheers!

Andrew, sorry to hear you are having trouble with your C230. Normally we hear that it will crank but won't start so this is unique. I would make sure all of the connections are properly connected. Be sure the ECU connectors are properly seated as that might be the issue. I don't recall off hand if we removed any ground connections during this intake removal but that is one that will cause a no crank issue for sure. Good luck on your Mercedes project, let us know how it goes. Cheers!

Hey Timmy, sorry to hear that. I would just trace back all the connectors to make sure everything is plugged back in. Since there a quite a few that need to get disconnected in order to move the harness out of the way, it can be tricky to see them all upon reassembly. Especially the cam sensors which would make starting the car difficult. Good luck with your project, Cheers!

Hey Joe, thanks for the comments. Sounds like you were able to just do the flap repair kit instead of replacing the entire manifold. Good luck on your project, thanks for watching. Cheers!

@@BradleysGarage i changed the broken lever and gaskets on a 2007 C280 but keep getting a p0012 or jumps to a p2004 code how can i tell if the vacuum is opening the flapper valve i rev engine don't see any movement someone said just moves under load ??? is that correct or i will get a random misfire car has me confused and frustrated!

It’s a 2008 c300 v6 manual

Hey James, thanks for the question. 95% of the time that P2006 code is related to the intake manifold flap issue. Sometimes the generic scan tools won't provide the best info for diagnosing difficult issues. If the manifold was recently replaced, what brand was used? How long ago was it replaced? Any other codes besides the P2006? Are you having a bad idle or any other symptoms of running rough? There's a small chance it could be an air leak, like the airbox is not seated correctly over the MAF or not closed tightly. Let us know about the questions above and we can try to help resolve your issues. Cheers!

@@BradleysGarage no other symptoms at all, the car itself drives fine, idles fine. There is an 02 censor code for the same side as well.

Hey Steven, thanks for the question. We think it's almost a guarantee that these intake flaps will fail at some point. The 2006 in our video only had 140k miles on it but it was over 15 years old. It will depend on the age and mileage of the car you are looking at. It seems like most of them are failing or have failed around that 120k-140k/12-14 year mark. The good news is the 2008+ seem to have fixed the balance shaft/gear issues that plagued them from 2005-2007.5, so at least that is one less concern for ownership. Here is a good blog post from FCPEuro that goes over all of the common issues the M272/M273 face - blog.fcpeuro.com/the-definitive-guide-to-the-mercedes-m272-and-m273-engines If you do decide to order the manifold from FCPEuro then at least you know it's guaranteed for life and the part can be replaced for free if you own the car for another 100k+. Let us know how it goes, Cheers!

Thanks for the comments, appreciate the feedback. Since it was our Mom's car we had to get it done but it would be nice just to pay someone...LOL. Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!

Yes Chris, that is exactly the same engine. Mercedes used it in a bunch of models over the years. Good luck with your project, Cheers!

@@BradleysGarage thanks, same to you!

Hey Michael, we are located in Southern California. Cheers!

Yeah, it's a good idea to remove it. That way you clear your trouble codes while you are at it. Cheers!

@@BradleysGarage thank you hope to see more repair videos from you

@@BradleysGarage cheers subscribed

Hey Nick, thanks for reaching out. Are you currently getting any codes? Check engine light on? If you aren't getting any error codes, I would thoroughly check the vacuum lines and make sure everything is connected. There are a lot of little connectors that get removed during the process. The car will definitely run poorly if any of them are accidently unhooked. Let us know, Cheers!

@@BradleysGarage it was giving the same code but no light on. Im changing the mass sensor because i cleaned it before and maybe the liquid damaged it. I let u know if is fixed after that

Sounds good, let us know 👍

@@BradleysGarage hello the light came on today and i went to autozone to check it and the code their computer gave was P0106 should i change map sensor or the vacuum hose in their paper says vacuum hose

I would check to make sure your MAP sensor is plugged in and the vacuum hose connected to it is not cracked or split. Here's a good video that shows you how to access it - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vy3upvewyXE.html I would be leaning towards a vacuum leak before saying it's a bad MAF unit. Let us know what you find, Cheers!

Thanks for the question Swift, we have not had any issues with the Pierburg manifold. This is the manufacturer for Mercedes so it's the exact same manifold without a Mercedes logo on it. The only thing Mercedes sells is remanufactured unit for $900 or you can get the brand new Pierburg one for $600. If you purchase from FCP, it will have a lifetime guarantee. You will not get this from Mercedes so you can decide what works best for you. Good luck on your Mercedes project, let us know how it goes. Cheers!

Thanks for the question North Ridge. In our experience, this manifold is very particular with regards to any leaks. If any one of those actuator seals are leaking it will cause a lean condition and you will experience misfires. We performed all the routine maintenance items as well and were continuing to have issues with the car. After the manifold swap, all of the problems went away. As you could see from the video the main flap lever was broken and causing the error codes to appear. Sometimes you can get away with just repairing that lever with the repair kit but all of the other seals looked pretty bad so we decided to swap out the entire manifold. This manifold is well known and documented for having these issues. Good luck on your project, Cheers!

@@BradleysGarage thank you! I've been chasing my tail, p0301, p0300, all new plugs, 6 brand new coils, good compression, only runs rough at idle, down the road smooth, no hesitation or misfires. im gonna smoke test the intake and see what happens.

Hey Jeffrey, small intake leaks can definitely be the cause of these random misfires. If they stay on a specific coil pack after swapping them around then you know the coil pack is the issue. But since you have changed them, then it's most likely a small vacuum leak. Let us know what you discover after the smoke test. Cheers!

Hey Kiki, yes the 4MATIC uses the same engine as the RWD cars, so the repair will be the same. Good luck on your project, Cheers!

Thanks for the question, sorry to hear you are having trouble with your Mercedes-Benz. The "ESP Unavailable" message usually means that the steering wheel position sensor needs to be calibrated. This often happens when the vehicle battery is disconnected. To fix this, start the engine and while in park, turn the steering wheel fully left/right several times. Usually two full lock-to-lock turns will do it. If that doesn't clear the ESP message, then something else is wrong and you will need to scan for codes. Another common reason is a weak battery so be sure to check the voltage to ensure it is at least 12.5V. There are a couple other common things that can create this issue but nothing related to replacing the intake manifold. Let us know how it goes, Cheers!

THANK YOU

@tcyap2498 No worries TC, let us know if you get it sorted. Cheers!

I got it running finally, but the car has no power at all max out at 40 mile per hour, and the idle is somehow stutter

@@tcyap2498 Hey TC, are you getting a check engine light? Any codes? I would double check to make sure all of the electrical connectors that got removed during the intake manifold removal are plugged back in. It is easy to overlook a plug and the computer will not be happy. Just run back through each component to ensure everything is tight and connected properly. Let us know if you discover anything. Good luck on your hunt, Cheers!

Hey Ryan, thanks for the question. The typical symptoms include poor idle, loss of power and general drivability issues. You will also usually get one of the following check engine codes - P2004, P2005 & P2006. P2004 - Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open Bank 1 P2005 - Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open Bank 2 P2006 - Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed Since the factory arms are made of plastic, they become brittle with age and break. You can purchase a Air Flap Runner repair kit but we are not sure those are any better quality even if they are aluminum. That's why we chose to replace the entire intake manifold with a factory Pierburg Intake Manifold. We are going on almost two years now after the repair and the Mercedes is still running great with no issues. Please let us know how your Mercedes project goes, thanks again for hanging out. Cheers!

Not sure what might be causing the P0215 since the Mercedes Codes are sometimes difficult to decipher with a generic code scanner. Here is a good thread that list them all: www.benzworld.org/threads/list-of-fault-codes-dtc.1696815/ if you are looking for the MAP Sensor, it is located on the driver's side, towards the front of the engine (circled in this picture)- i.postimg.cc/zGfKRfNT/MAP-Sensor.jpg Although "Bank 1" is located on the passenger side of the car so I'm not sure what sensor you are referring to? Not aware of any other "intake sensors" so I'm not sure? Sorry I can't be of more help. Cheers!

Thanks for the comments George, it is kind of crazy they are just cast and then drilled but not threaded for that kind of money. We know it's a little bit of a pain if you don't have a Tap & Die set in the garage. You can just purchase the one tap if you don't think you will ever use it again in the future, since they are pretty cheap. www.amazon.com/Drill-America-POUM6X1-Plastic-Uncoated/dp/B0714781T6/ref=sr_1_3 Let us know how the Mercedes intake manifold replacement goes after you get the tap part sorted. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!

I'm not aware of that part being sold individually. You could always grab one from the wrecking yard since it technically it can be removed. But you airways run the risk of the old parts not being much better than what you are replacing. Good luck on your project, Cheers!

@@BradleysGarage thank you for the good answer

Hey Donald, thanks for the question. It seems like most people are having issues around the 130-175k mile range. The problem is there is really not anything you can do to prevent them from going bad. The combination of heat and age weaken the parts and cause failures. The good news after replacing them, you will get many more trouble free years out of the car. And if you purchase from FCPEuro, you will have an intake manifold that is guaranteed for life. Good luck on your Mercedes project, Cheers!

Agree 100% Ron, the design is definitely not ideal for longevity. Unless of course you are expecting them to fail after the standard warranty period expires to generate income for your dealer network. The good news is the repair is not incredibly difficult and should last for many years again after the repair. Thanks for hanging out and your comments, Cheers!

Trenton - It looks like the current cost of the Manifold Kit is $684 which is about $150 more than we spent when we did the repair. It seems as though the costs for everything are getting a little outrageous. You might be able to get away with the Flap Repair Kit if it's just the central pivot lever where your issue is. Here is a quick video that shows those details. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ooatlAONjoA.html Most likely you will still need to remove the manifold to repair the flaps though. You may be able to access it by removing the secondary air pump to provide enough space. Here is a link to the URO Flap Repair Kit - the cheapest place is $145 www.autohausaz.com/pn/UR-149984216 Let us know if you have any other questions, Cheers!

Hey Carlos, thanks for the question. Symptoms of a failing intake manifold on your Mercedes-Benz range from non-existent to an almost un-drivable car. Some of these symptoms are: -Check engine light illuminated -Fault codes P2004, P2005, and/or P2006 -Rough running, particularly at idle, Loss of power If you have over 80k miles there's a good chance some of the intake manifold components are failing. The intake manifold problem is caused by one of the inlet manifold tuning flaps breaking, causing unexpected and deficient performance depending on the orientation of the flap that has broken. You can find many “repair kits” out there with metal linkage that promise to correct the problem, but in our experience, the only true and permanent repair is to replace the intake manifold with the newer, and an updated design. Any “repairs” are usually very short-lasting and risk having failed parts fall into your engine via the intake ports, resulting in very expensive engine damage, and quite possibly ruining your engine. It’s just not worth the risk, do it right the first time, and it’s good to go for another 80,000 to 100,000 miles. Good luck on your project, Cheers!

Okay thank you found one for 1,200 seller seems to be honest and claims that's what a mechanic claim to be the problem it starts but then wouldn't accelerate much so not sure if I should gamble it and buy and try to replace it and if it fixed it I got a good deal just not sure lol

Hey Carlos, not sure where your are located but here in the states the complete intake manifold kit is only $650 (link in description). Not sure if the $1,200 you mentioned above includes the installation as well? You can definitely tackle this job if you have some basic mechanical skills. Just take your time and follow along with the video. Good luck on your project, Cheers!

​@Bradleys Garage oh no i ment he is selling the car for $1,200 his mechanic said that's the problem so I was tryna buy the car and he gaved me permission to fix it right in his driveway to drive it becuase it don't accelerate much so not sure if it js the manifold does it trigger a Check engine light ??

Thanks for the comments Flash. If you just have a broken center pivot arm then you can purchase a repair kit that just contains that part. After removing the SAP it is still a tight squeeze but it is possible to remove the pivot arm and replace it. Most of the time, like in our case the rest of the manifold components are not in great shape as well. So it made more sense to just replace the entire manifold with brand new parts so we wouldn't have to worry about things for at least another 150k. Good luck on your Mercedes project. Cheers!

Hey Wolf, thanks for the question. The intake manifold books for about 4 hours. So depending on whether you are at the dealer or independent shop, the price will be different. Most dealers are charging around $225-250/hr these days so right there is $1000 just for Labor. Indy shops will be around the $150/hr so you'd be at $600 there. Keep in mind that doesn't include the parts costs which both will up charge for. Some indy shops will let you bring in your own parts and they just do the install. Hope this gives you an idea of the costs associated with the repair. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!

Thanks for the info Chris, appreciate you sharing the data. Fortunately we never had any issues after the repair with the DME/ECU. Cheers!

Thanks for the question Noah, we went off the specs published by MB for the 272 engine. Here is the section for the intake manifold - benzbits.com/M272/IntakeManifold.pdf Good luck on your MB project. Cheers!

Hey KT, I wasn't aware of that but it's good to hear. Cheers!

I heard about it too, but like a fool didn't look into it. Guess after my new one fails in a few weeks I'll get that! 😂 I love Mercedes, but this manifold is a joke made in poor taste.

Yeah, I've done a couple so it does get easier with practice. I'm confident you can knock yours out without any trouble. Just take your time and you will have it wrapped up in no time. There were only a couple of hard to reach bolts on this repair. The rest is just unplugging and moving stuff out of the way. Good luck with your repair, Cheers!

@@BradleysGarage I will have to re watch it and see what tools I need to buy

Hey Caligula, thanks for the info. It seems as though that particular engine code was only used on the 2008-2010 R171 SLK350. The intake manifold is the exact same part number so it must be the throttle body that is different and maybe the MAF along the ECM? It's tough to get any info on what the differences are but I do see that it has 305hp. Bottom line is I don't think Grandma needs that extra HP. She seems pretty happy with the 268hp on tap. Appreciate the info though, Cheers!

Yes, it will be the same for all the models that use the M272 engine. • 2004-2011 SLK350 • 2004-2010 W209 CLS350 • 2005-2010 C209 CLK350 • 2005-2007 W203 C350 • 2007-2011 C350 / C350 4Matic • 2011-2015 C350 BlueEfficiency • 2005-2009 E350 / E350 4MATIC • 2009-2011 E350 / E350 4MATIC • 2005-2013 W221 S350 • 2005-2012 R230 SL350 • 2006-2017 R350 • 2006-2011 W164 ML350 • 2008-2011 CLC350 • 2008-2012 GLK350 Good luck on your Mercedes project. Cheers!

Hey Dude, yes a couple of the clips broke when taking apart the connectors. It's going to happen on 15+ year old stuff. They fit pretty snug so it has not been an issue on ours. To add a little comfort, you can always add a zip tie around the connector if you feel it's too loose. Good luck on your project, Cheers!

@@BradleysGarage thanks so much for the quick reply. I just broke the same two clips after being CAREFUL.

Here's a quick easy trick using zip ties - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pycNWaWzKR0.html But honestly, I don't think you will have an issue with those connectors. They are pretty snug so you will be good. Cheers!

@@BradleysGarage Brilliant!

Sounds like fun Hung, where are you located? Cheers!

Hi, Are you in California?

Yes BH, we are located in SoCal. Cheers!

Hehe, it's all relative I guess. Lots of guys are taking off way more parts than are necessary to remove the manifold. We tried to make it as easy and concise as we could. Thanks for hanging out and watching, Cheers!

Yeah, these European cars are great when they are working good but the repair costs can be an issue if you are not comfortable working on them. After doing the manifold repair the Mercedes is back to running great, so hopefully it will have a few more years of trouble free service. Hopefully you won't get discouraged and keep playing with these Euro cars, Cheers!

@@BradleysGarage your video is the most helpful video regarding any automotive work I’ve ever seen. Easy to follow. I have a clk350 but it’s one of the variants that has the “weak” balance shaft gear and after I fix the intake manifold, I’m going to sell it as soon as I can. Got the car for 3600, not terrible but given that it has the common 2007 Mercedes’ issues, it needs to go sooner than later

@@Frendo1 Thanks for the kind words, appreciate the feedback on the video. I've been there with other cars in the past. Sometimes you need to just get them operational and then pass them along to the next guy who wants to tinker with it. Then you can be on the hunt for the next toy, 🙂Cheers!

Thanks for the comments, appreciate the feedback. Cheers!

Thanks for the comments, appreciate the feedback. Cheers!

Why not buy a Mercedes?

@@jaijai0745 because I have one and it’s a pain when you are DIYselfer. Hard to reach parts and they use special screws that is just DUMB coz it breaks easily. They want you to bring it to the dealership and they will charge you an arm and a leg. Never had a problem with a Toyota!

Hey CJ, thanks for the tips. We removed those parts just to provide a clearer picture of the removal process. It's great to know you can just leave those plugged in to save additional time. Thanks for sharing, I'm sure it will help the next guy out with this repair. Cheers!