Dude I forgot to subscribe to you I just did. from a learner to what sounds like an old timer I wanna say thank you becausw this is EXACTLY what we need and nowadays people are consumed with foul deeds instead of making this world a better place. thank you for making this video for us. ill havw to rewatch now bc of writing this lol
Hey Bubbles, thanks for subscribing. And thank you for the kind words. All my vids are made so I can share what I know or as a response to someone's tech question.
Hi Will. How was Texas. It's very warm here! I think you have saved me £595 on a new clutch. I followed your advice about 1)Removing carpet. 2) Taking time with reverse gear. 3) Taking more time changing into 1st at the lights. I have been driving a SAAB 9.3 Convertible for years and never had gear trouble. I think I got used to changing gear TOO FAST! So far so good - many, many thanks. John
Hey John, we will be running 34C and above for the next few weeks/months. Glad I could be of some help and save you money. Some transmissions shift better than others. Not all are smooth as glass. And, as the synchronizer rings wear the shifting will take more time as you ease into the gears. Keep up the great work over there! Will
wfs52 interesting you add that, I’ve been having a high idle issue since the shifting problems started. My truck idles at 1400rpm when cold and 1000 when warm. Might be a vacuum leak somewhere. It makes more sense the two problems coincide. A friend and I have been working on the idle for awhile but have not got anywhere with it.
@@rjvonhammer1414 We buy cans of Chemtool B12 spray by the case and use them to search for vacuum leaks. I am sure you know to spray everywhere you can as the engine idles and see if the rpm changes. I just pulled the engine on my '03 F150 and found tons of vacuum hoses that were original and loose. What a nightmare.
Funny you should mention that. I just started driving my 230SL with manual transmission and I am doing my best to re-learn the art of shifting gears properly. Thanks for viewing and commenting.
Love how you’re helping everyone out with free education. I was hoping to get some education myself. Only happens when cold, I try to shift into reverse or 1st in a 6speed and it’s super hard to get it into gear I almost have to mash it in or try a couple times before it grabs. When it warms up shifts into it without struggle. Any idea ? Thanks !
Hey Jeff, thanks for viewing and your question. I am glad I am able to help some people. And correct, I do not monitize my vids. If there is an ad on them, it is not mine. First thing that came to mind was the type of trans fluid in your trans. I have had a similar question before and they report changing to a different brand of trans fluid helped. Of course, be sure to use the correct viscosity fluid. You might also try a synthetic fluid. They are much more slippery than conventional fluids. Right now I cannot think of a mechanical reason for the difference in shifting when cold vs. warmed up. Let us all know when you get more info on the situation or figure it out.
can i get some help. I can only access my 3rd gear if its from second gear. cant go from 4th to 3rd. cant go from 5th to third. everytime i need to go 3rd from 4th, i have to put the knob on 2nd (but i dont put it all the way, just nearly in) then go to 3rd.
Very nice video sharing simple tips on how to diagnose possible problems. T This is whats going on with my mitsubishi g4. When engine is off no problems in shifting. Once running, it is quite bothering how hard it is to shift to first gear, takes time and few trys. 2nd gear is more decent but the rest of the gears were smooth. My car is only 30k km. I will try your suggestion and see how it goes. One more thing, what might happen if there is insufficient transmission fluid replaced in the trans?
Hello Paolo, thanks for viewing. 30K km is too low km's to have transmission trouble. Hard to shift is due to worn syncronizer rings. Low fluid? It depends on how low the fluid is. Inside the transmission is only gears and shafts, some spinning as long as the engine is running. So fluid and the correct fluid amount is critical. Is the transmission still under warranty?
Not only is fluid level critical, so is using the correct fluid. Also, be sure your driving style is not part of the problem. Do not sit at long traffic lights with the car in gear and the clutch pedal pushed down. Shift into neutral when you will not move soon. If you have to sit longer than 10 seconds shift into neutral. Also, do not force the shift lever to shift the gears faster than the gears can move. No speed shifting.
2004 Honda accord 242,000 miles 5 spd manual transmission. Clutch is good, as well as the clutch master cylinder. Here’s what’s happening; first gear is sometimes hard to shift into, when I shift into fourth gear it won’t stay, it’s easy to shift into the fourth gear position but it’s like there is nothing there, like the gear disappeared, second gear is starting to behave like that as well . As far as reverse is concerned, before when I shift into it, it was ok, but it was hard to get it out of reverse. I had to turn off the engine and then I was able to move the gear shift lever out of reverse. Now, reverse gear is behaving like fourth gear, when I shift into it just goes almost back to the neutral position, like that gear disappeared also. The gears in 2nd, 4th and reverse have no engagement.
Thank you for viewing and for your post. You have gotten remarkable mileage out of your transmission. Your excellent and comprehensive description of your transmission is exactly how a transmission slowly wears out, fails, and needs to be rebuilt. First gear is used the most and fails first. What causes 1st gear to fail also affects 2nd gear. I am guessing you use 4th gear more than 5th? The typical manner in which 4th gear wears out is evidenced by it popping out of gear. This will happen on acceleration or deceleration, but mostly on decel when extra force is applied to it. What wears out are both the synchronizers and the synchronizer shift bodies. Worn synchros will make it hard to shift into gear. Worn synchro bodies will also make it hard to shift into gear but to also keep the car in gear. It is time for a transmission rebuild. Thank you again for your post.
Hi great video I've Toyota auris manual just changed the gearbox oil got new clutch aswell when I got the car 3 years ago only started to happen won't go into Frist gear doesn't happen all the time but seem to gotten bit worse since I changed the oil rest of gear's are perfect low miles aswell
Hey Ryan, thanks for your question. I several transmission vids on RU-vid and in a couple of them people have mentioned that the type of trans oil used can make a big difference in shifting. It sounds like there is a direct correlation between your oil change and the 1st gear issue. If you used a conventional oil, go with a synthetic. If you used a synthetic then try a different brand. But the 1st gear syncronizers are the first to go due to using 1st gear all the time. And those are what are keeping you from shifting smoothly. In addition to the oil change, try shifting into 2nd then into 1st. Also, In those instances when it will not go into 1st notice if the engine RPM are higher than normal. Make sure no extra carpet or mats are keeping you from depressing the clutch all the way. Hope this helps. Will
My 2003 Hyundai tiburon GT shifts smooth into 1-2 and 3 but 3-4 or 4-3 it goes somewhat smooth but there is more resistance/slightly a little more effort and 5-6 is smooth as well as reverse. Am I overthinking this? Could it be something big or is it possible to be the linkage underneath the shift boot or bushings there or something inside the trans
my Hyundai Genesis grind if you shift too quickly into 6th, and some other gears. I think Hyundai just made bad transmissions. Although the same thing in this video is happening on my 2018 Honda Fit.
Sorry for late reply. I do not always get alerts from RU-vid that someone has asked a question. This could be a transmission fluid issue. Consider changing the trans fluid. Catch the fluid in a clear container and inspect it for tiny shining speckles floating in the fluid. I think your synchronizer rings are worn and affecting the 3-4 and 4-3 shifts. Think about your driving and see if those shifts are the most common that you do. If there was a linkage or bushing issue, it would affect all your shifts. I think the issue is the trans is exhibiting normal wear and getting old. The best thing you can do is change fluid more often than the mfgr calls for, consider using Pennzoil Synchromesh Transmission, and slowing down the speed with which you shift gears. Slowing down allows the transmission gears to slow down and allows the synchro rings to do their job.
Q- my suzuki when creeping(5kmph), doesn't downshift to first gear,i have to completely halt/standstill my car for it to engage which is difficult on a slow moving uphills(many conditions where i cant engage 1st but have to do it 2-half clutch). Now clutch shows symptoms of wear(minor rattling noise and slips at high speed). Ain't gonna change clutch plate without the solution of 1st gear. Please guide me for possible causes and solutions.
Hi, I have a hyundai i10 2009 model. All gears except reverse shift smoothly when the car is at a complete stop. When the car is moving i have to give a lot of force to down shift to 1st gear. Gears 2,3,4,5 engage very smoothly. Also reverse doesn't go in completely always and makes grinding noise. Is this because of worn synchroniser?
Hello Adil, thank you for viewing and your question. Short answer YES...worn 1st gear syncronizer. I searched but could not find out if your reverse gear has a syncronizer. Not all do. Is the issue with the reverse gear new? First gear issue: the synchros help 2 shafts, rotating at different speeds, reach similar speeds so you can shift gears. One thing to try is to shift into 2nd or 3rd (or any gear) and then into 1st. If it shifts easier or better, then this confirms the worn 1st gear syncro. Your 2,3,4,5 are shifting OK because their syncro rings are not worn. Reverse gear issue: try the same technique of shifting into another gear then into reverse. This will help slow down the rotating shafts and allow the reverse gear to mesh with the rotating shaft. Remember, reverse is just sitting still, not moving and all of a sudden you want to integrate the stationary reverse gear with a rotating shaft. Unless you slow the rotating shaft down, there will be some crunching. Something that will help shifting into 1st is a correct idle speed. If the engine rpm is too high, that will interfere with shifting into first. Also, make sure the clutch pedal goes all the way to the floor and there is no carpet or mats interfering with the pedal travel. And correct transmission fluid, especially a synthetic fluid, will help. I hope this helps.
I have unique issues using a C60 six-speed trans on a 2zzge engine. (The 2zzge/C60 does not use a pilot bearing) When the engine and trans is cold to normal temps it shifts into reverse with no grinds. As soon as the engine and trans are warmed up after racing hard the trans will grind when shifting to reverse at a stop. Shifting into any gear then to reverse does not solve the issue. Also there's another issue intertwined with this where the trans will tend to progressively rumble low to worse while in first gear at a stop only after racing, but I think I fixed this issue with a clutch pedal adjustment. Putting the car back into neutral or revving the engine stops the rumbling. Any thoughts? Thanks.
I did not mean to take so long in responding. Your question has so many elements to it that it has stumped me a bit. First thing that comes to mind is the transmission fluid. When cold the trans shifts into reverse OK. When hot it grinds. Perhaps it is the transmission fluid thinning out. Consider changing transmission fluid, perhaps using a fully synthetic fluid or Pennzoil Synchromesh Transmission fluid. The rumbling could also be related to the fluid thinning out. This could be the sound of the bearings loosing lubrication, especially if the bearings are worn and loose. The only time you should hear bearing rumble is if they are worn and do not have any lubrication in them. Putting the car into neutral takes a load off the main and counter shaft bearings. The only shaft that would be turning is the input shaft. Thus the stationary parts of the trans and their bearings would not rumble because they are not turning. Revving the engine would also act to splash trans fluid around and help fill the bearing clearances and stop the rumbling. Also, the revving engine might be louder than the bearing rumble. Good luck and report back what you find.
@@Mercedes-Guru I had the same feeling about the trans fluid. I've changed the fluid 3 times in two years since my engine rebuild. At first I used Amsoil manual synchromesh fluid and then switched to Valvoline Synchromesh. I just replaced the fluid with valvoline Synchromesh last month and the grinding issue is still there after things are hot. Come to think of it, I never had this issue when I used Amsoil synchromesh, but then again things were still being broken in. Now I'm beginning to suspect it has something to do with the clutch slave cylinder pushrod extension I installed since Im using a a heavier duty ACT clutch.
@@hiblendmedia The next thing that comes to mind is the syncro rings are worn out. I am not familiar with your exact trans. so I do not know if reverse is synchronized. On the transmissions I work on, it is not and it is normal for the trans to grind a bit going into reverse. I tell people to shift into any gear first, to slow the internals and then shift into reverse. This could also apply to your trans and the grinding when shifting a hot trans. The synchro rings are designed to bring two gears, rotating at different rpm, to the same rpm so you can shift from one to the other easily and quickly. The grinding you experience is the gear you want to select rotating faster than the gear you are in. As the trans gets hot the synchro rings expand and offer less grip to do their job. As for the pushrod extension, I have to assume all it does is makes the shift fork move the throwout bearing further and thus depresses the clutch plate even more to ensure it fully disengages the clutch disc. I think the extension is a positive and not a negative issue. I am going out on a limb to say I think the syncro rings are worn but are marginal when cold and when hot work even less well. As the synchro rings have worn, the bronze material shed by the rings has been a grinding compound that has caused the bearings to wear and rumble. And the trans has given its all on track days and is finally showing its age. Is there a choice in trans fluid viscosity? If so, step up in vis and see if that helps. It will make cold shifting stiffer. Let me know what happens. Best of luck.
@@Mercedes-Guru The reverse gear doesn't have a synchro as far as I know. I've been shifting from 1st, to 2nd, then to reverse lately, but the grind is still there but less harsh when I use that pattern. Now I'm beginning to suspect it's the plastic shifter housing that Toyota uses although I haven't had any issues shifting to any other gear. Not entirely sure what viscosity is valvoline synchromesh, but the C60 uses 75w90. I guess I'll have to dish out more money on some Amsoil Synchromesh to rule the fluid out. Thanks for the help btw.
@@hiblendmedia Plastic shifter housing is a new piece of info. The trans I work on are all metal, no plastic anywhere except linkage bushings. If the housing is worn and allowing shift fork misalignment that certainly could be the issue. It would help if I could see what the housing looks like and/or a blow up diagram of the trans. You are welcome, but not sure what benefit I have been, but it has been interesting and fun to noodle your trans issues.
Here’s one for ya . New clutch. New slave and new master. Still can’t get into gear properly.. master cylinder has threaded pushrod.. I have the pedal maxed out.. car rolls with clutch in… but still have the 1st and R issue..
Difficult sometimes to get into 1st gear. Also occasional grinding of Reverse. The clutch grabs near the floor so presumably OK? The manual says PAUSE briefly when changing to Reverse. The car is an old (1999) Land Rover Freelander - Diesel 2.0 Any help would be appreciated. The garage wants to change the clutch!? (£595)
Hello John, let's analyze this. If the clutch grabs then you still have functioning clutch with enough friction material to do the job. You did not say anything about a slipping clutch. Most experience a slipping clutch when they press on the petrol pedal and the engine revs increase but the vehicle's speed does not. Now, difficult going into gear means the clutch is not totally disengaged. Try this. With the engine off, shift into 1st and see if it is easier than when the engine is running. If so, it means the clutch is not fully disengaging and that could be a linkage issue or hydraulic issue, depending on the type of system you have. I found this video that might shed some light on your situation: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4X8oAR3aYNA.html The reason the manual says to pause when going into reverse is to allow the transmission gears to stop moving. This makes it easier to shift into reverse. This is due to the fact that reverse is not synchronized. Pausing is a way to prevent undue wear and stress on the gears. The clutch grabbing near the floor does not sound correct. That would not allow you much modulation of the clutch. Normally the clutch should grab about half way of the pedal travel. See if any of the above applies to your situation. Best of luck, Will
@@Mercedes-Guru Hi Will, Thank you so much for taking the trouble to address my problem - very good video and comprehensive help. Tried your suggestion this morning: Changed all gears smoothly with engine off. The clutch seems to engage about 1/3 way up - is this OK? A suggestion of yours in your video was to remove the carpet. Did this and seemed to be better with gears changing smoothly with engine ON. The trouble comes when I reach the lights, go into neutral, then try to go into 1st! Perhaps getting rid of the carpet might solve it. Thanks also for the useful link you sorted out for me - will try to get my garage to try that. (I am old like my Land Rover and I do not attempt any repairs myself these days). 'Hands across the POND'.....Best wishes...........John UK
@@johnaustin1825 You are welcome. 1/3 way up is getting better. Trouble getting into first might mean the synchronizer rings are wearing out. Try shifting into 2nd then back into 1st. This will align the gears. You would be using 2nd gear to do what 1st is supposed to do but is worn out. Also, is your idle too high? That can affect shifting when stopped at lights. Report back on how things go. Heading to a hot weekend in Texas. Have a good one there. W
Hello. Good job ! I have a Mercedes G72 gearbox. Seems to be the same ! Do you have some doc or pdf about this gearbox ? Because i don't know how to fix some parts ..... Best regards !
@@pyclic We use the Model 190 factory workshop manual and follow it exactly. The manual shows you when to use the depth micrometers, anvil micrometers, and dial indicators. You will also need to make These transmissions have tolerances between 0.000" and 0.004", where .004" is the thickness of 2 human hairs. Years ago I was at the Bondurant High Performance Driving School doing a trans out job on a 280SL 4 speed. The tech's saw the trans and said it looked just like a racing trans. The 190SL and 280SL trans are basically the same. So these are very well designed and engineered transmissions that require precision when rebuilding them. Follow the workshop manual and you will be OK.
Sam, thanks for watching and for the question. I cannot see a reason how the transmission would affect engine RPM. I would like more info. Under what circumstances does this take place? What kind of car? Thanks.
I have this exact problem with the w115. When you say it takes time for the gear box to slow down, could it be if there is no oil in it that it would keep spinning, but less so if it's full with oil?
Hello, I just typed a long response to your question, asked what kind of car, and have no idea where my response went. Did you ask questions on 2 different vids? Excuse my confusion. Trans oil level is critical since parts inside the trans are always turning while the engine is running. And correct type of oil is important as well. With no oil, internal parts are not going to be happy and will eventually make shifting harder in all gears. I hope oil level is not part of the problem.
@@Mercedes-Guru good day, thanks for answering, I appreciate it very much. Yes, have been binge watching your other videos, and wrote twice on the same video I think. The car is a Mercedes 1976 W115 220d. I am going to check the oil level if I can figure out also what size the hex nut is to open the plug. I would hope that it is the oil (easiest fix) I replaced both master and slave clutch cylinders to no avail. In the other message I wrote sticky clutch, but I did not mean pedal, the pedal is working properly, it has pressure when going down and is coming up nicely with power, it is the actual clutch itself when you step on the clutch pedal while in gear, it takes like 3 seconds for the clutch plate to disengage from the flywheel. Actually I think it does not disengage at all, only when I brake it will. And along with not wanting to shift in first or reverse with engine running or after a serious push on the gear lever for a good 15seconds or trying to put the lever in other gears like 3rd gear it would usually go in and then I can get it in first or reverse. Thanks for answering again!
@@makingcookingfixing With the engine off, can you shift into all gears? Here is a link to people discussing this in more detail: www.benzworld.org/threads/hard-to-shift-gears.178849/
@@makingcookingfixing OK. That info helps. IMHO this eliminates internal transmission issues. We are back to the clutch/pressure plate/throw out bearing not working and/or clutch master or slave cylinder not fully functional. Here are photos of the clutch slave cylinder bolted to the right side of the trans and pic of the throw out bearing and lever, FYI: www.ebay.com/itm/164694500326?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=164694500326&targetid=1645685073528&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9026915&poi=&campaignid=20398193995&mkgroupid=150311025254&rlsatarget=pla-1645685073528&abcId=9317236&merchantid=101683607&gad_source=1 It would help to have someone familiar with hydraulic clutches to assist in evaluating the situarion.
I have a 2008 bmw 328i 6mt 123k miles. Sometimes it's hard to get into 1st at a complete stop, other times it goes I'm smooth as butter. I don't think the clutch is going out because it's holds firm under hard acceleration which I do quite frequently. I know the car has been abused and used to teach multiple kids how to drive manual including me and also used by and inexperienced manual driver in a very hilly town. Despite the abuse it's been well maintained at a euro specialist shop and fluid changes have been regular. Is it a serious problem for something I shouldn't worry about too much?
Thanks for viewing and your question. From your description the trans is showing normal wear for the type of use and mileage. While the problemoif going into 1st will not get better you can try and keep it from getting worse. 1. make sure the engine idle is not abnormally high. The engine idle directly affects the speed of the trans input shaft and thus the gears inside the trans. More on this in #5. 2. make sure you have the correct trans fluid. Or consider changing to a different brand of fluid. It has been reported to me that different brands of fluid work better than others. Sorry, I don't know which ones. Perhaps the BMW Forum can help. 3. Make sure you are able to fully depress the clutch pedal. Do you have extra carpet or mats on the floor that keep the clutch pedal from going all the way to the floor? 4. When shifting into 1st allow the engine to be at idle. 5. Before shifting into 1st, shift into another gear. The 1st gear synchronizer is worn out and not always allowing the speed of the 1st gear to synchronize with the speed of the input shaft spinning with the engine. Let's say you are stopped at a traffic light waiting for it to turn green. The engine is idling and turning the transmission input shaft. All the gears inside the transmission are sitting still, NOT turning. You then push on the clutch pedal and shift into 1st. The synchronizer ring (usually made of bronze) has to gradually grip the 1st gear and bring it up to the same rpm as the engine. So the gear has to go from 0 rpm to say 800 rpm in the split second it takes you to shift. Normally this is not an issue. But with the high miles on your trans and the history of use, the bronze ring is worn out. Now, the bronze rings on other gears are not as worn out. That is why shifting into another gear first will help shifting into 1st gear next. I am sure the Euro specialists have done a fine job. But there is nothing they can do to fix the worn bronze synchrozier ring except to replace it during a transmission rebuild. Until then you will have to be gentle when shifting into first. I hope this helps.
@@Mercedes-Guru I can get it in first gear at stand still only if I shift first to 3rd gear and then go immediately to 1st gear, then it goes in. Also, each time a press the clutch pedal while driving, it's not disengaging the gear for like 3 seconds, like the engine still gives traction to the gear box.
@@makingcookingfixing Hmmm...Hello MCF. thanks for the question. What kind of vehicle? By shifting into 3rd then into 1st you are using the 3rd gear syncronizers to slow internal rotation in the trans so you can make gears mesh with each other. By not being able to do this with 1st gear it tells me your 1st gear synchronizer is worn out. It will require a transmission rebuild to repair. But before that, try changing transmission fluid to a full synthetic and see if that helps. Also, be sure the engine idle is not excessively high. In the meantime continue to shift into 2nd or 3rd then into 1st. I know this is not the best solution, but it is a solution. As for the clutch pedal not disengaging, my first thought is the clutch disc/pressure plate are sticking slightly and reacting slowly. That might explain the 3 second delay in disengaging. The clutch could also be low on fluid if it is hydraulic. Or it could be broken return spring if not hydraulic. If hydraulic it could also be a sticking clutch master cylinder or cylinder on side of trans. Perhaps a clutch fluid replacement would help. Let me know if you resolve the issue and what fixed it.
Hello sir, I have the same problem. I have a C Class w204 220 CDI, when i try to park my car or stuck in traffic my 1st gear its hard and when the engine gets hot in traffic and the 1st gear the car shakes when i slowly remove the feet from the clutch… Do you have any idea what the problem might be, thank you!
Hello Mr Smith, thank you for viewing and your question. I did some research and found this forum which deals with your problem: forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/index.php?threads/c220-cdi-estate-2012-manual-juddering.163437/ It has good information that should help you. I agree with their assessment of the problem and its solution. Good Luck.
When my car first turns on it is hard to shift into first and reverse. I have to shift into second to get it to shift into first. After it warms up it is fine, however, it still shifts a little roughly. I am also having a brake fluid leak, and I know that is the same as clutch fluid, but the shifting of the gears is entirely a transmission symptom. Any advice?
Hello Konstantin, thanks for viewing and the questions. You might have a few things going on at the same time. Let's take them one at a time. First, shifting into 2nd to get 1st. This indicates the synchronizer body or synchronizer rings are worn. 1st gear will be the initial indication of worn parts due to the fact you use first all the time. The next gear to go is usually 4th gear. When it gets worn it pops out of gear on deceleration. But, a high idle will make it difficult to shift into 1st. So make sure the engine idle speed is correct. Perhaps the cold idle speed is too high? What happens is the trans input shaft is turning when the engine is running. When you shift into 1st you are trying to mesh a spinning input shaft with a gear that is not spinning. The faster the input shaft is turning, the more difficult it will be to shift into 1st. Try this: compare shifting into 1st with the engine off vs. with the engine running. Is it easier to shift when the engine is off? 2nd, clutch fluid leak: is it possible the fluid leak is also an indication the clutch master cylinder or the clutch slave cylinder are not allowing you to fully operate the clutch? This could mean the clutch is not being fully moved away from the spinning flywheel. 3rd, driving style, do you press the clutch pedal all the way to the floor when shifting, is there thick carpet or mats under the pedal that would prevent it from being fully depressed and thus the clutch not being fully operated, are you shifting too fast and not allowing the synchronizers to do their job, is the linkage from shifter to trans correct? How many miles on the vehicle? The higher the mileage the more likely your shifting issues are due to a worn out transmission. Let me know if any of this helps. Will
@@Mercedes-Guru Thanks for the response! Idle is fine right between 500-100 rpms. The master cylinder was the problem for the brake fluid leak. The vehicle has 230k on it, but the engine is kept in great shape. It is also easier to shift into first while the car is off versus when it just turns on. Would you suggest a trans flush or change?
@@konstantindro2322 It is always a good idea to have clean fluid in the transmission. But I do not think that will help with shifting issue. The trans shifts easier when the engine is off. This is because nothing in the transmission is turning. With the engine on, the input shaft connected to the engine is moving inside the transmission. That is all that is moving. The rest of the transmission is not moving. The synchronizer hub and synchronizer rings are supposed to make it easy for you to shift the not moving parts into the moving parts. As the engine idles at 500-1000 rpm the input shaft is going 500-1000 rpm. But the rest of the transmission is not. When you shift into gear you and making these moving and non-moving parts come together. It makes me think the synchronizer body and synchronizer rings are worn out. The first to wear out are the 1st-2nd gear. This is because you always use 1st gear. The next to wear out is 4th gear, which will pop out of gear when slowing down from highway speeds. I believe you will need to rebuild the transmission. But before you do that. When you are putting the car into 1st gear, the shift is difficult. Correct? Instead of shifting into 1st, shift into 2nd. then shift into 1st. What this does is uses less worn synchronizer rings of 2nd gear to allow the stationary transmission parts to get up to speed. Also, be sure to shift slowly. This gives the rotating parts in the transmission time to match rotating speeds and fit together. Good luck.
Let me see if this is correct. Under acceleration load, the transmission shifts OK. Under deceleration load it is hard to shift. My first thought is the main shaft inside the trans is loose and moving back and forth. See if the output flange that bolts to the driveshaft is loose. Try to move it back and forth. Do you have the correct fluid in the transmission? Are there shift bushings that could be worn? I am just guessing since this is not a problem I have had before. What kind of car is this?
I get a blocked first gear and reverse at times when at a stop. At the traffic lights I put clutch down go second then first to go to first gear at a stop.
Two things come to mind: transmission fluid and synchronizer rings. Try a different fluid like Pennzoil Synchromesh Transmission fluid, Amsoil synchromesh, or Valvoline. See if a fluid change helps. Otherwise, it is a worn synchronizer ring and nothing you can do about it. Keep shifting into 2nd to get the spinning gears to line up. The first gear wears the most as it is used the most. Reverse is often part of 1st gear and that is why it is acting up. Again, put the car into 2 or 3 to get the gears to slow down, then you can go into 1st or Reverse. This is not ideal, but is a short term solution. You are eventually going to have to rebuild the transmission.
@@Atrickz. Sorry to hear that. Most of the time you will notice clutch slippage in high gear and you try to accelerate. The engine rpm goes up but the car does not go any faster. This can happen in any gear under hard acceleration. Is this what you are experiencing? If so, the clutch disc is worn and needs to be replaced.
The T5 is a great overdrive trans, able to handle lots of torque. History of your ride. How many miles on the trans? Been doing some serious acceleration runs and/or speed shifts? Let's see if we can isolate the issue. With the engine off, not using the clutch, can you shift into a gear(s)? This is isolating if it is the clutch, cable, or trans issue. Start the engine, shift into first, and let the clutch out. Does this cause the clutch and/or car to shudder or jump? If so, it could be the disc. But I doubt that is the issue unless you really cooked the disc. Smelled any friction material recently? Now, let's say you are going to do some errands. Start the engine and shift into 1st. Is it difficult or notchy? Drive off and do your first errand. Then start the car and shift into 2nd rather than 1st.. Was it hard to go into gear? Try this the rest of the day and shift into each of the other gears first. We are trying to see if the issue is a particular gear which would lead us to a particular synchro ring or synchro body (the thing the shift forks move back and forth) which allows the gears inside the trans traveling at different speeds to mesh with each other. Another way to try is when you are ready to shift into 1st and you know if is going to be hard to get it into gear, try shifting into 3rd. This will test if the 3rd-4th synchro body is working better than the 1st-2nd body, which gets used a whole bunch more than the others because you use 1st the most. Report back.
Hey Matt, thanks for the question. Several possibilities. Let's start with some basics. Under what circumstances does it not go into gear? I assume it is when you are driving. But have you tried to shift into 1st with engine off, sitting still? That will help determine if it is a trans problem or other issue. Some easy things to check. Fluid level if hydraulic clutch or linkage adjustment for mechanical clutch. Floor mats? Are there excess floor mats that will keep the clutch pedal from going all the way to the floor? Transmission oil correct and not too heavy, especially if you are in a cold climate. Idle too high. Does it help to shift into 2nd then shift into 1st? This could be a syncro issue. It is possible the trans needs to stop rotating internally before you go into 1st. By shifting into another gear you will help slow it down internally and thus make it easier to shift into 1st. And that would be due to worn syncro. And since 1st gear is the most used gear, it is the 1st gear syncro that wears out first. So, try shifting into another gear then into 1st and see if that aids shifting. It won't cure the problem, but we will call it a manual transmission shifting hack. Good luck.
@@Mercedes-Guru whenever it’s in neutral and the clutch is up... it won’t go in 1st when the engine is on... it shifts fine when the engine is off... and yes shifting in another gear and then putting it in first works perfectly fine
@@RandyPinkFloyd132 OK, that tells me your 1st gear syncro ring is worn out. The ring helps slow down the trans internal rotating parts so you can mesh 2 gears inside the trans. With the engine off, nothing is rotating inside the trans and that is why you can shift into 1st. Shifting into 2nd, 3rd, etc. slows the internals as well as being a less worn out syncro ring. That is why you can shift easily into those other gears. Once shifted into them, you can then shift into 1st when the engine is running. Having the worn out 1st gear syncro is a PIA but should not cause you to rebuild the trans. I know it is not what you had in mind, but from now on it looks like you will be shifting into any other gear before going into 1st. Try to figure out which gear you use the least and start using it as the gear you shift into before going into 1st. You might consider the trans fluid. Changing trans oil or brand, especially to a synthetic, might help as well.
I have simmilar issue when shifting into 1st - sometimes it will stuck in the middle and wont engage as if something is blocking it - but if i wait 2-3sec after pressing clutch it will go in smoothly - perhaps its clutch cylinder issue. We will see!
Hello Mateusz, thank you for viewing and commenting. Are you able to shift into 1st when the engine off? If so, do you experience the same feeling of being blocked? I am guessing you will be able to shift fairly easily. If so, the issue is certain parts inside your transmission are rotation and other parts are stationary. When you shift, you are trying to mesh both of these parts by slowing down the moving parts and speeding up the stationary parts so they are rotating at the same speed and you can shift into a gear. The synchronizer rings aid in this process. When they get worn out you experience the issues you have. You can try using a synthetic transmission fluid or making sure you have the correct type of transmission fluid. You can also try shifting into 2nd first and then into 1st. Make sure you are able to fully depress the clutch pedal and there is no extra carpet keeping the pedal from going all the way to the floor. But if the problem is only with 1st gear and not the others, I doubt it is a clutch cylinder issue. When you figure it out please let us all know. Good Luck.
At 1:33 you will see 1st gear on the far right. It is the biggest gear. The small gear is what drives the counter shaft. 4th gear is when the input shaft drives the output shaft so the input rpm is the same as the output rpm. Hope this helps. Thanks for viewing and the question.
It turns out, in this car's past life, it was a race car. And it had been raced hard. When we torn down the trans we found an exceptional amount of internal wear. Clutch operation is via rod and lever, no cable. And all of them were worn out. Once everything was renewed, refreshed, and rebuilt, the trans is smooth and easy to shift. Here are 2 vids of us driving the car. You can hear how nicely it shifts. Thanks for watching. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lDiVWnfG3i0.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KokzBg3cJmg.html
@@Mercedes-Guru Reverse and first year are really hard to change. Once I turn on the car it's smooth and works properly but when I come to a full stop and I try to go to any of those gears the problem starts acting up. I took it to the dealer and they changed the "transmission fluid and clutch fluid" (for $450 😔) and they said that the more I drive it the sooner it will get fixed... but there's not any improvements so far.
@@javialegomez2043 Hey, thanks for the info. How many miles on the trans and what kind of driving to you do? Lots of starting/stopping, hills, etc.? Sorry the dealer did that to you. Fluid change and the trans will fix itself does not make sense. How nice it would be if a fluid change would allow a trans to fix itself. Things to try: 1. make sure there is nothing like carpet or mats preventing the clutch pedal from going all the way to the floor and allowing the clutch to fully disengage; 2. when getting ready to shift into 1st or Rev, shift into another gear then into 1st or Rev; 3. make sure you are not shifting too fast. This is what is happening inside your transmission: the trans is exhibiting normal high mileage wear. While the engine is off, nothing is turning inside the trans. As soon as the engine is running, the trans input shaft is turning. And the main shaft gears are turning. But the countershaft gears are not. As soon as you shift into a gear, the synchronizer rings allow the moving and stationary gears to match speed so you can mesh and shift from one gear to another. If the synchronizer rings are worn, then they will not work so well and will allow the gears to grind. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qYl5Kxxrz8w.html see if this video helps with diagnosis ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bB0E4QSnh2M.html this vid might help understand inside a trans 1st gear gets most of the work, since that is the gear you always start in. And it is the one that wears out first. This is for urbane driving. For highway travel, 4th gear wears out first. See if this helps you.
Those cheap 3d/7d mats plus the stock mats on top made me burn my clutch plate before 90k kms. Now its slipping at high speeds. Cant engage 1st (unless complete stop)while stall/creep on cliff on moving up hill traffic have to do it on 2nd .
Hey Nikhil, thanks for viewing and your questions. Sorry to tell you, but slipping clutch at high speed means clutch disc worn out and should be replaced along with new pressure plate and throw out bearing. This assumes the clutch pedal and linkage or hydraulics are fully returning and not stuck or out of adjustment. What happens is the wind resistance combined with speed produces a great amount of drag on the vehicle and the disc cannot overcome that force. At slower speeds with no wind resistance the clutch disc is holding. IMHO this is not necessarily related to "can't engage 1st unless complete stop", which would indicate the 1st gear synchronizer ring is worn. I assume if you shift into 3rd, then try to shift into 1st it will work? If so, then there are 3 possible solutions: 1. continue to shift into another gear before shifting into 1st gear; 2. rebuild transmission; 3. try changing transmission fluids or brand of fluid and try a synthetic fluid. Good luck and report back on what happens.
Hello guys, found video, i have another problem. My sprinter manual gearbox have hard time to release 1st to 2nd, and from 2nd to 3rd, it's like harder, something still holding it. But all tests of clutch seems to be okay. Normally changing gears are ok, standstill ok, only when driving and shifting up.
@@Mercedes-Guru hello, thanks for reply. Some updates. fluid is new and bleeded. And doing only when releasing 1 to 2, when 2 to 3 but when going opposite, it's working well even in up hill. 2012, 295000 km
@@Mercedes-Guru thanks a lot, yes when it drops it's okay than. But still when rotations are higher, and I press clutch, transmission seems to still doing some job. I'm trying second mechanic, he thought what is clutch, then he tried all tests and said it's not clutch. But can't find what it is. I've been driving a lot in south America from 0 to 5000m many many times. My car is converted to camper, with weight 3200 kg in total. Right now I first time changed transmission oil, differential oil. And after 3 years brake fluid. Before this happened I was driving uphill and down hill with slightly burning clutch because opposite driving car didn't let me pass on right road up hill, when I mean uphill, imagine brutal hill. After that was all OK and I went from this mountain 3400m down to the coast breaking with motor a lot slightly burning pads All in 35 degrees celsius, all before oil changes. When approaching coast I was unable up select gear, after turning motor off and on I was able to change it. But there was some noice. After that I went to mechanic he said it's only loose shifting rod linkage and clicked it back. But still there was this problem releasing 1 to 2, 2 to 3.
@@martinkremercz That is a great deal of work the transmission had to do. The stress placed on the transmission going up and down the mountains was very great. I still think the synchronizer rings and/or the shift body they act on are worn out. I believe you need a transmission rebuild. I asked about engine rotation (rpm) because if the rpm is too high the transmission gears do not have time to synchronize rotation speed and become equal rpm. At equal rpm the shift will be smooth. Otherwise the synchronizer rings are forced to quickly synchronize gear rotation, which helps wear out the rings. Plus, the weight of the camper added extra stress on the transmission. You can try a different transmission oil, synthetic, which is very slippery. That might help. But I think the transmission is worn out. The only thing you can do is shift very slowly. Will
can i get some help. I can only access my 3rd gear if its from second gear. cant go from 4th to 3rd. cant go from 5th to third. everytime i need to go 3rd from 4th, i have to put the knob on 2nd (but i dont put it all the way, just nearly in) then go to 3rd.
Hello SD, thanks for viewing and the question. Try shifting thru all the gears with the engine off. If you can shift without much difficulty, this would eliminate a clutch, clutch linkage, or rotational issue. But what you describe is the indication of worn out synchronizer rings. This video will explain what is going on: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-e-Lk3FXHubw.html I suspect that vid will be boring to you. What I think is happening is the synchros are worn and not doing their job, which is to either slow down the gears inside the trans so they can mesh together or lining gears up so they will mesh together. That is why you cannot shift from 5th to 3rd. One thing you can do is to slow down how quickly you shift gears. When you vehicle was new you could shift about as fast as you wanted. But with a worn out trans you need to shift more slowly. How slow depends on the amount of internal wear on the syncros. While it is not convenient, try slowing down your shifting. Make sure you have the correct transmission fluid. Unfortunately I do not think there is much you can do about it except to have the transmission overhauled. Best of luck. Will
