This is turning into a full Resto, Cool.. I'm working on the front wheel arches on my 74 GT and noticed the two self tappers on the cill, I thought there was some bodgery going on, but they were factory, wow, ya learne something new everyday, ya do.. Cheers for all your Content fella..
Yeah as I got a bit further in, my approach changed, and I decided that a full restoration was what it deserved. I'm enjoying it though! And yes, those screws I believe are for an interior panel but I must have a look to be sure. Best of luck with your car!
FYI, all MGB's PoziDriv screws. PoziDriv screws are different than Phillips and give a far stronger grip and will not round out the screw head when using a Pozidriv screwdriver. If you look at the screw head, you can see the difference. If you replace any screws, it would be advisable to replace with Pozidriv's. If you decide to remove the doors or the rear hatch, you'll need a Pozidriv #4. Do not use a Phillips bit. You will be in a world of hurt if you do so. Here in the US, Phillips are the standard and so Pozidriv screws must be special ordered from Moss and the like. Maybe in Ireland, Pozidriv' screws can be easily found? Also, if you found getting the wing off was difficult, consider yourself lucky that you do not have a US dashboard version. Its removal is a major PITA.
I actually do have a full set of pozidrive screwdrivers. I never really looked closely enough at the screws to notice that that's what they were. I'll be using them in the future though, so thanks for that info! And yeah, removing the wings wasn't much fun. It's only those bolts under the dash that make it a hassle. They're off now though, so on I go! 😁👍
Great progress! Just finished the inner wing on that side on my roadster. Very similar condition to yours and a lot better than I was expecting 😃. Once I've done the other side I'll be fitting the engine to get it running. I'm told the engine was reconditioned shortly before being layed up so if I'm lucky it should be good to go. If not it'll be coming back out and I'll need to consider my options which will include swapping out for a modern engine and box - probably from an mx5
That'll be a job I have to tackle soon. The engine. I want to get the front end finished before moving onto the rest of the car, so that'll mean getting the engine in and running in amongst everything else.
Even if the panel in de wheelcavity seems to close off the space behind the front fenders, road dust invariably assembles behind it, with the layer on top of the reinforced ledge as being the most dangerous to structural integrity. On this GT one is lucky rust did not progress so much. A regular clean and repeated Waxoyl treatments can protect these steel parts for good, the sill part inside included. My recipe was a first clean by hand, copious amounts of wayoyl sprayed inside and by hand covering this ledge with Waxoyl assures it is safe. I repeat this exercise every 2-3 years. The tiny indents on the bottom of the fender for letting the water come out will clog up anyway and this is also the reason I find the use of plastic fendercovers on the outer side of the fenders not very usefull: they will trap water behind covers and fenders, which will not go away on its own. Never use Tectyl on any hollow cavity: it will trap water which will come out on the outer surface as pinhole rusting, guess how I know. 🤔
I certainly add a little liquid wrench to all screws and bolts before starting any project. 50yo old screws can ruin your day. Smear a tiny bit of antiseize on them when putting back in. And if female threads look a little rusty, run a tap into them to cleanup. Makes a lot of difference if you have to adventure back into that project again. Taking that extra little time, well………attacking all bolt with an heavy impact, first, can really be a bummer. I use a 12v impact, low power, about 20 psi, which won’t tear up a bolt if stuck. Evaluate it, before going to the big impact.
I will most definitely be using copper grease on the bolts when everything is going back together. I use lubricant when removing bolts when I can get to the threaded part. I do have a few broken bolts to contend with though!
Yeah fortunately it's in better shape than the other one was, and anyway, the other one is donating it's pieces to the restoration of the car, so it's still being used in a way! Those superhappy 9000 screws (God only knows how I came up with that!) are made of unobtanium. 😁
Well now that's a grand bit of progress there now the wings are of and you can see what you are dealing with , will be a transformation when the inner wings and the engine bay are cleaned up and have some fresh paint on there it will look totally different .I hope you don't mind me asking but how long do you think this project will take you.
I'm hoping to use it for my son's wedding. He's 2 now! 😂 Honestly, I have no idea. Maybe another 3 years to tell the truth. My next MG video will show paint going on. I'm editing the footage I have so far at this very moment, so you're distracting me! 😉😁
@@Endfloat Sos fella crack on with the editing lol , would be good for your lads wedding , looking forward to the next vid it's a great project to follow.
@@ShaunMurray63 ah I'm only joking. Anyway I'm finished editing that segment so I'm watching Mustie1 videos now! Glad you're enjoying the project. My reckoning is it's only going to get more interesting, for me if nobody else!
Personally, I'd clean out the engine bay and then decide if you want to paint it. It looks like it would clean up nicely. If you do paint it, keep it the same color as the exterior. Painting it black will degrade the value.
And if you don’t prepare the surface properly, like on my car, the engine area, the crappy black paint started chipping off, looked terrible. . So strip all the black, repainted original. Wow, looks so much nicer. With tape, newspaper, can easily can pull things away to paint under and cleanup, and reassemble.
