In this Video I show the process of laying out a one piece mini tub wheel well. Explain the basics of shrinking and thickening the metal on the power hammer, and show the first set of shrinks to start pulling the panel around.
@@stanstelmach5326 the material gets thicker at the shrank area. So the material is compressed. If the grains dont move and stack up how would the material get thicker in the areas of shrink?
One thing that still boggles my mind, despite watching yours and several other explanations, is how the thumbnail die works - my brain wants to believe that the metal would just end up right back where it started as you pull back out, yet it doesn't. I still can't quite wrap my head around how the die doesn't just simply "undo" the tuck :)
Hands down...absolute best shrinking explanation and demonstration on shrinking I've ever seen. You have an amazing talent to teach as well. Thank you for your commitment to share!!
I was just looking at that post earlier this evening trying to figure out how you did that wheel tub in one piece. Great explanation of the process. Thanks for sharing this. ✌️😁
Thru out my shoulder beating on my tree strump making art deco full fenders for my oxy/acetylene cart. Got bored one night. But gosh darn it those tubes look sexy. Great video
Thanks for paying attention to the comments asking to show this process and making the videos. Really good content, especially for those that can't take the classes.
Thank you for the video Mike I am forming some rockers and floor pan for my truck without even the simplest body tools. still this is education for the soul. Will make a Bonsai to honor your commitment to quality.
Absolutely amazing work, thanks for sharing. I understand shrinking and stretching from my blacksmith training, but this is another level. Great work can’t wait to see more.
You killed it Mike. I even made my wife watch and listen to you explain stuff. One extra potentially helpful thought on teaching / explaining - perhaps a pencil sketch of the thickness of material in the shrunk zone through a cross section diagram - help is see where the material is being moved to and how that causes panel to spread in places and contract in others. Keep up the good work Mike. You have a gift to teach. You also just a humble guy. God bless. Aaron.
Science = Organized knowledge. I'd say that was in and itself the best explanation and demonstration I've ever seen on how metal forming is done. Unbelievably cool 👀
If l was a young man l would be at your door looking for a job. This work is fascinating! You sir are a genius and a master of this art. Outstanding teaching skills also. I can’t say enough good about you! Keep up the videos… please!
Great video , you're explanation of the process is spot on I knew exactly what you meant as you explained it. That power hammer is a beast , the question I have is can you get the same results with a smaller power hammer ? , not everyone can afford a machine that size.
thanks for watching. Yes smaller hammers are more than capable of doing these parts. I have a smaller hammer that i used to make these on. I just use the big hammer on everything now
Thank you very much for sharing your expertise on RU-vid. Very interesting. You do a great job of explaining the whole process of shrinking metal. You do amazing work. Thanks again.
Utmost respect to you metal worker guys. Really impressive to craft something so clean out of what seems like such difficult and unforgiving material. Interesting and informative video!
Thanks Mike! Great video, loads of good information. A key takeaway for me is to focus on getting the shrinks to accurately form the radius of the bend before worrying about the floppy outer edge. I know how much extra effort it is to produce videos on top of actually getting work done, much appreciated!
@@cornfieldcustoms it was!! I was trying to get my head around how to make the radius happen without wrecking the area that need to remain flat. Can’t wait to see part2!!
Oh so much easier than when I was an apprentice we had to do this very same exercise using only a blocking hammer and a block then later hammer and dolly. I prefer this method.
Wow, Absolutely one of the best teaching video's I have seen! I love seeing that wheel well made in one piece, and I love power tools, I understand they cost a lot of money, but doing it by hand kills my shoulder just thinking about it!
@@cornfieldcustoms I tried making that piece on my MH19 early this year. I never could get the wavy part to come all the way over and tighten up the piece. After watching your part 1 I am thinking that I didn’t have the hammer blow intensity set right. Ultimately I ended up making the pieces in 2 parts using a round over die (covell tank die) in the bead roller and then welding the center of the radius. They came out OK but not great. After I watch you finish the one that you are making I will try making mine on the hammer again. I never installed the ones I made in the spring. Anyway thanks again for the post. It is much appreciated.
Great explanation! I'm struck by the difference between what you can accomplish on the big power hammer and others I've seen using hand tools or smaller spring powered hammers. That thing is a beast.
Don't sell yourself short on your drawing skills. Although I've seen the thumbnail dies used plenty the view you chose and talking about being pulled back thru finally made sense to me for the first time. Kind of a "lightbulb" moment for me.
yes if you were doing this with hand tools or some lighter power tools 2 sections would be the only way to achieve it, unless you spin it and cut out, but that a whole different topic
Amazing knowledge and abilities. I am assuming you made many "mistakes" along the way to get to this point of your learning abilities. And I also assume you didn't start with the power hammer machine, but hand tools as you progressed. So that is where most of us are presently working with metal forming. Thanks for the lesson and video...
This was a great video, you're a great teacher Mike. If you were to make this part with a mallet and stump, you'd have to flip the panel, right? When you crush the tucks with a mallet, the panel is pushed outwards (convex). I'm trying to figure out how I could do something similar with hand tools.
thanks for this nice explanation. I have just one question. You said, it is essential to stop right at the line. Where actually are stoping in regards of the die? Is the outer flat area not crossing the line or is the tuck going til the line?
You dont pay attention to the die. You stop the shrink at the line. Not the die or the tuck itself. There is an area just in front of tuck thats kind of a horse shoe shape thats what is stopped at the line. Its the front edge of the shrink
well actually you can also drill metal draw it, upset it, and rivet it, but I suppose thats a differant type of metal work and names for much the same concepts but you say you offer classes and lessons in shaping and crafting? hmm sounds like I might be interested if I had the time. but thanks for showing us the layout, its so seamless its a work of art
@@cornfieldcustoms ah yes but you said welding, a differant method of attachment, and of course the operations I mentioed have more to do with bar stock or slug metal not thin plate or sheet metal, but I guess you do thick stuff too bending frame and tube and its crazy how well it works without even kinking the metal heh, I guess I am trying to be a wiseguy thats a big hammer, how much force does it hit with at max pressure per blow, I am more familier with forging type power hammers or presses which have the force of the ram or weight of the hammer, not necessarily the blows per minute.
welding and attaching are totally different things. lets say you have 2 pieces of .500 1018 Mild steel. You forge weld them together ( 100 % clean, no cold shuts, or delam, a perfect forge weld) , what do you have? 1 solid billet of 1018 mild steel. you can not go back in and separate the 2 back into their own individual pieces. now take 2 identical pieces of .500 1018 Mild steel, you rivet ( bolt, tape, glue, zip tie) the 2 pieces together, What do you have? 2 pieces of 1018 mild steel rivet ( attached ) together. you can easily knock the rivet out and you are back to the 2 individual pieces you started with. Welding and attaching are different theories and i was not talking about attaching since it doesnt have anything to do with the 5 core principles of modifying a ( singular) piece of metal. it doest matter material shape size or thickness, you want to modify a piece of metal you are shrinking, stretching, cutting, bending, or welding.
@@cornfieldcustoms right but I was playing devils advocate since they weren't mentioned by name, so how much force does the powerhammer hit with at max pressure curious to compare to a forging power hammer.
Neither, you stop it at the point where the shrink stops. In the video at the point where i show you the unclosed tuck, it is the front U shape of the tuck. You stop that U at the line
yes and no. You can use thumbnail dies in a pull max but it not as clean or effective. the hammer is spring loaded with more tool gap and the upper anvil get thrown by the springs to hammer. the pullmax is a fixed stroke so it wont hit as hard and tooling has to be tight to close the tuck. as the material get thicker by shrinking it will begin to stretch out unless you are constantly changing tool gap settings. I rarely ever do any shrink work on a pullmax.
