My question is why mod an already modded blaster? It seems pointless. If people want to mod a flywheeler mod something that actually needs to be modded. Mod a stryfe or rapidstrike
Just got the blaster on sale online at target for $65. Might use the money I saved to mod it up. Loving the spectrum I modded with your kit Update: just bought the mod kit. Summer cookouts are going to be brutal.
I like how there's still one person doing mod guides. Really good mod guides too! I feel a lack of creativity going through the nerf RU-vid search, as I only see blaster reviews of Hasbro, dartzone, and some 3dprinted blasters. It's so easy to get a blaster that's already hitting 200 fps that you don't need to make the blaster do that, just buy one. I hope more get around to doing mod guides
Very useful mod guide. Also I purchased and installed the flywheel cage kit and the upgraded pusher motor, also bought all 3d printed accessories. Everything looks and works amazing. Very happy with the performance and looks.
You have turned the MK3 into a monster of a blaster, it works so well! I don't think I will get a MK3 as it isn't available in the UK, but you have certainly inspired me to do a crazy rapidstrike mod, I'm trying to design a 5-switch setup that will allow for select fire without any computer. Thanks so much for the video! 💚💙
Very pleased with the cage vs fps values. It is disappointing that no one has really developed an overall better cage, since the Daybreak setup is more of a boost to full lengths than anything. After seeing how DZ did the MK3, makes me wanna rethink my current build a bit.
I'm conflicted on this blaster. 1st of all, I love the look of the Blaster, and they can be truly wicked when painted and detailed. Then come the 'buts'... For the customer who didn't want to mod the blaster, but wanted to purchase what amounts to a mildly modded Rapidstrike-Style blaster that was touted as being able accept long and short darts, and was supposed to accept Talon mags. After all, not everyone has a stack Dart-Zone half dart mags. For the money it's not more accurate than other flywheel blasters. All that being said, I don't dislike the blaster. I'd likely still buy it, accepting that I also be purchasing the kit you or y'all have gone to so much trouble and research'n to put together for us. Thanks for all y'all do. Can't wait to order my OOD Proton-Packs.!
Cool I still have to buy a 3s but I got the new flywheel cage installed I tested it on double A's and it works like a charm... It's something completely new because I've never done an actual electronic mod
Makes me wonder if DZP tested on worn/older talon magazines or if ther ewas some sort of difference between production magazines and what they had avaiable.
Heads up for this guide. Watching the pusher motor upgrade section is not optional. Those PTCs will cause issues for the build even if you don't want to upgrade the pusher motor. Don't be like me and skip this section and then be very confused when your mk 3 revs down after a few seconds.
We appreciate the heads up! We didn't have any issues running the flywheels without bypassing the PTCs on the pusher assembly, but I'll be sure to add that as a correction in the description.
Lol. While I do most of the editing, I send it to Luke for feedback before we upload. He told me to add that in (among other titles and tweaks). - Perry
Nice. Makes me wonder though how long the gearbox is going to last on that rate of fire in full auto. I didn't really plan on using the MK3 in full auto much anyway so I think I'll pass on this mod. Magazine-fed blasters I like to stick with semi-auto cuz I prefer accuracy over capacity. Full auto is the persis for me still my favorite to just grab a handful of rival balls and put them in the extended Hopper.
I have tried making the cut for Talon mags, tried the mag adapter insert, changed the spacing of the retention spring for the pusher, tried the 3d printed pusher, and adjusted the springs in my mags (tried talons of different sizes and Tachi). I still get I jam on full auto after the first dart. The pusher just isn't returning all the way back and it jams. If there are only about 4 darts or less in a mag it will not jam. I Increased the retention spring on the pusher greatly, and in a test I got a full mag dump for the first time while the blaster was open and on its side. However, when I closed it all up, and tried to fire the motors were weak and then no power. Did I stall my pusher motor and burn my switches? After about 80 hours of work and over 200 bucks I am kinda done with the MK3. I should have just modded up another spectrum, but I was really excited to use those Tachi Mags... and short darts on full auto. Seems like very few people have my issue and just silly super easy fixes....... Fyi I am running Krakens for all my motors.
What would happen to my dart zone mk3 if I just removed the muzzle and didn’t replace it? Would it decrease the performance? Would it decrease the accuracy?
I don't know why, but upgrading the motor for the pusher for me keeps resulting in pusher runaway. Idk if it's an issue with the return switch or the gearbox but I've had this issue with 2 MK3s. *Edit: Higher torque motors won't have this issue (I.E. Krakens/FangRVs/etc) The motor that caused the runaway was a Valkryie.*
Hi, I saw on another video that you recommended the low rate of fire tachi mags for this blaster - is this still the case after installing this kit and raising the rof, or would it be wiser to buy the high rof mags? Thanks!
We would still recommend the low ROF Tachi for the DZP Mk-III. The high ROF Tachi is really only recommended for: • 25+ darts/sec builds • People wanting to use the Mag Extender • People who want to tune their mag spring to match their blaster's ROF (we have a video tutorial on tuning Tachis on our second channel)
On my MK3, i've tried all the mentioned fixes, but the blaster still does not feed properly. The last thing I need to try is a new pusher/motor but I am skeptical that it will work. Any ideas?
In what way does it not feed properly? Shoot us an email with pictures and we might be able to help you figure out what's going on: orders@outofdarts.com
I have tried every fix and nothing works. Finally printed the new pusher, but that failed also... I put in a way beefier retention spring and it worked for one mag. However, I must have stalled my pusher motor (kraken) and burned out my switches. I have spent well over 200 bucks and at least 80 hours trying to get this POS to not jam. Good luck. Seems everyone else has no trouble...
@@brianlee5033 I feel you. I've tried the mag fix, the pusher fix, the cuts and nothing else. I got a replacement spring from DartZone and it has not fixed the issue. Just about to write off my MK3 as dead. I am either going to reach out to someone with a makerspace to see if they can save it. Or its relegated to semi-auto only.
I assume you're talking about the motor orientation compared to the wiring. The motors are marked so that if wired as labeled they will turn clockwise. Since we needed the motor to turn counter-clockwise, we just oriented the motor backwards from how it's labeled.
I have this battery. Graphene 2s 950mAh 65c LiPo pack (XT-60) OOD Exclusive. Is it powerful enough for the 3 motors in the DZP MKlll or will it puff the battery? I know 3s is better but for the time being, all I have is this 2s
So I got a mk 3 and after a little bit pf use the rev trigger only revs up the flywheels some times. What I mean by that is that sometimes when I press the rev trigger it doesn’t do anything. Just wondering if you have a fix for it or if it’s just like a a bad button or anything.
Sometimes we've had this problem where the firing trigger is bunching up against a part of the rev trigger. Open it up and make sure everything moves freely. If you still have a problem, email us with pictures and we'd be happy to help further: orders@outofdarts.com
@@outofdarts I actually did some problem stating and the problem was that the button that the rev switch presses slightly moved when I pressed it so by taping it down it fixed it
Not necessarily. You might burn through alkalines faster with the Kraken pusher, but at 12 volts nominal with 8 AAs, it should still function about as well as a (12.6 volt) 3S LiPo. If you're avoiding LiPos for safety reasons though, you should consider IMRs. They'll last longer at sustained current, and don't require as many precautions as LiPos do.
Question I'm planning just to do a rate of fire mod But is there any other parts I need other than just a kraken My printer is currently clogged but i can probably get it fixed So if there's printed parts I can print myself I can do that
It depends. If you want a super-stock short dart blaster that can fit a ton of mod parts and takes XT-60 LiPos out of the box -- even if it means you may need to mod it to shoot full-auto at a higher RoF, then the DZP Mk-3 is for you. However, if you think you don't need the full-auto, and are willing to work with the proprietary LiPo connector, the Nerf Pro Stryfe X is probably a better option.
Hey Luke. I live in Australia and would really like the anti jam adapter piece that is going for about 3 dollars. Unfortunately to get this shipped to me, it will be 60 dollars. Is there any other way to source this simple piece?
@@outofdarts Thanks so much for the reply! And yes, that’s a good idea. Also, great tutorial, I learned a lot. This will by my first mod so I’m really excited. I plan on upgrading the pusher motor and then doing the cage at a later date. I really like the ability to have them modular via XT60. Thanks for making the parts available! Will also pick up the low profile CQB muzzle you designed!
@@outofdarts ok expanding on this. I’d like to mod one with a high rof but sitting at ~120 FPS to be viable for hvz. On 3s it sounds like even stock fly motors would run too hot. What set up would you recommend to try and achieve this?
@@andrewsmith2064 Assuming you are running it with short darts… Either run it at 2s with stock or similar crush Flywheels, or run it on a 3s and use our 42mm cage (~111 FPS). That being said, HvZ spec is a very popular range of FPS. I'll talk with Luke to see if a 41.5 mm cage is worth designing for that purpose. - Perry
im not sure why.... but after i installed this mod kit, followed the instructions to the T, and made sure to do the nickel test for alignment, my accuracy has drastically declined. The stock gun was more accurate. Can someone help me?
I replaced the pusher motor with a Valkyrie 130 3s motor but I haven't replaced the flywheel motors yet because I procrastinate, and for some reason the pusher keeps going (albeit slower than normal) after I take my finger off the trigger in full auto. Is this because of the stock flywheels or just a side effect of having such a high ROF?
<a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="793">13:13</a> Motor Cover Tricky Fit You should design a 3d printed replacement cover strap, that fits Krakens/etc better
I couldn’t figure out why people were complaining about battery fit and I realized I was using the same turnigy nano-tech battery…talk about dumb luck.
It really depends. I find it much easier to start with a clean pair of motors if I'm changing cage and wheels, but you certainly could take apart the stock cage and use the motors separately.
@@Godsire69 We're planning a modding basics tutorial series, which will cover soldering and all the beginning hobbyist will need. Stay tuned, and we can help!
Is there any way to fix runaway when installing new pusher motors? When I leave the rev trigger activated after firing the pusher still operates but at a slower ROF
Depends. Are you invested in standard or angled Talon Mags? To each their own, but without the mag-in-grip design, the Mk-3 should be much more comfortable and versatile. However, we don't have our hands on the Phoenix 2.0 yet. We could still be impressed.
The blaster already comes with an XT-60 behind the AA battery tray. If you want a modular cage setup like we featured in the video you do need to purchase XT-60 connectors -- or purchase our complete mod kit, which includes everything you need.
I don't know for sure. I'll have to check next time I'm in the studio with my Spectrum. Certainly, if you mod the Spectrum for 3S you could use a battery of that size, but I don't know if you would need an extended battery door to fit it... So many designs to catch up on!
@@outofdarts its a bad deal. Terrible, even. If they’re already modding a Mk3 like this video, they might as well get the grandads of modded flywheelers: stryfe and rapidstrike. Imagining this blaster as a good deal makes me sick. Heck, I teached friends how to mod their flywheelers and even they weren’t impressed by the Mk3.
Thanks for the closed-minded take. The blaster itself is very well made and performs well in it's stock form. It is also a platform that allows for growth in terms of modification. I see it as a blaster for those who have the means of paying for a premium stock blaster without requiring them to mod, but also allowing them to in the future, if that bug bites them.
@@mbk337 how is it closed minded? Adventure force is releasing the same blasters but with less frills for $50 but the performance is the same. The Mk1.1 at $120 sale price is insanely good. You can barely build a blaster with that performance and be durable. What is the Mk3 doing that this awesome modding community haven’t done for amazing prices?
@@nerfnerdrev6 This is, like the MK 1.1 prior, is making it available on store shelves right now, with no modding required, and at a performance level.
