Great explanation of different thinsets, anyone that actually watches the whole video will be well informed.....however, I take exception to your statement @3:45 when you say a failure of a tile job was caused by using the wrong thinset, there were prob mitigating circumstances but I would love to SEE evidence a tile fell off simply because a modified was used where an un-modified was called for...or vice versa...
Thanks! In relation to the schluter kurdi membrane, where you are supposed to have a modified thin set, if you use a modified then set it may never cure properly. By the way I enjoy your channel and am already a subscriber for many months now. I love the walk throughs that you do of the bad tile jobs From other contractors.
Good explanation of ansi Jeff 👍🏼 more people need to understand ansi.Best example I’ve seen is mix 1 cup non modified thin set and 1 cup modified thin set put both separately in a ziplock bag sealed tight leave overnight and guess which one is rock solid? That’s when you’ll understand why schluter specifically calls for unmodified thin set.
You want evidences? I will give you my case...we were forced to strip EVERYTHING back to scratches because of that after massive failure after 3/5 years time from job. 6 years later everything is spot on and no concerns whatsoever.
Please don't be discouraged by the negative comments. I needed your style of teaching. I needed the time you took to teach it. All the 5 minute talks and all the charts are useless if not comprehended by the student. I have been looking for a modified/unmodified explanation that I could understand and their use for a long time. Great job.
I agree! People can be so darn rude! They can just NOT watch the video if they don't like the video content or click with the presentation style, but to actually take the time to make a negative and rude comment shows what an idiot that person is. It's very generous that someone took their time and made an instructional video for others to learn from! We should be gracious!
Thanks for the in depth explanation of all the thin sets and their standards. This was a great help. I appreciate anyone who takes what they do seriously, gives quality information and not just looking to make a quick video.
Thanks Paul! It's funny how other visitors to this video below commented, complained that this was too long and boring, LOL! I had intended this to be a master class, covering the engineering science behind why we do what we do when we tile.
I have never heard anyone tell all the differences in the thinset mortar like you have and make it understood like you have. I am so happy to heard all that you have said about the thinset and how and which one to use, you need to be a teacher on new guys just learning the trade, for us women to not be worried about them not knowing which ones to use when we have to hire this done for us older single women who can't do tiling.
Beautifully explained! I research my projects inside and out as well. I take my time so it is done properly. You brought another level to my process: the ANSI standards. I used to ask a sales person, sometimes that works out but sometimes it doesn't and one ends up with the wrong product. Thank you, this by far is the best of the best explained and pointed to the right direction.
Finally, a good video on explaining the difference between UNMODIFIED (uncoupling) and MODIFIED (coupling) THIN SETS. AWESOME JOB.. only 1 issue, the part where you show the bathroom tiles, that SAGGED.. (you said adding a second bead of caulk around the tub... I AWESOME YOU ALSO WOULD OF MENTIONED, YOU SHOULD REMOVE ALL THE TILES, OLD THIN SET ECT, AND USE THE CORRECT THINSET (BASICALLY STARTING ALL OVER, THUS DOING IT RIGHT) THANKS FOR THE VIDEO.
Right in the middle of doing a tile shower and your video helped me very much-needed thank you! I always research the particular trade that I'm learning and your explanation has just increased my knowledge and understanding. Good Job 👍
Long video but worth watching, even you are not setting tile yourself. Will help ensure that you select the right products or to ensure that your tile guy is using the right products.
Very, very helpful. Uninformed Lowes clerk was pointing me to the wrong stuff so I decided to go home and do further research. Doing a kerdi board shower and can't find unmodified except for the really cheap ($7) junk you mentioned. It's bizarre the big box stores sell kerdi board and fabric but not Schluter All Set or even Kerdi Fix. It doesn't help the bags use marketing language like "fortified" too.
Wow! Excellent video. Thanks for taking the time to explain the “why’s” and what could happen if you do X vs Y. I thought I was ready to go until you explained the pictures on the back of the bag regarding application areas. Thankyou!
Wow bro! You did an outstanding job on explaining everything! I’m a DIY guy for my own home remodeling. I’ve got a collection of YT videos then finally going and looking up the ANSI recommendations and everything was as clear as mud! Then, I come across your video. Everything clicks now! Haha, Thanks for your experience and knowledge!
Thank you for this! I got the Kerdi board - and I researched that you'd have to use the all-set purpose Schluter modified, or an unmodified thin-set. The big box store I was at had a ton of products, and I could not tell which one to get, and for some reason.. they didn't have the Schluter brand there either. I watched your entire video in the store, and ended up walking out and going to a different store, they didn't have un-modified! Really glad this was out there.
Jeff this was a really great explanation regarding thin-set mortar, and how to read and understand the labels-even if someone is NOT a professional contractor! Thank you!!! I was very interested in your video as well since I was trying to understand the differences between Mapei products (adhesives and grouts) for my mosaic projects. Since I live in Italy and am having a hard time understanding which Italian products (thin set, Mastic, Mirror Silicone adhesives, etc.) I can buy and use for my mosaic projects that are equivalent to ours in the U.S.A. You can't imagine how difficult it is to translate everything and try to find the same- just to do a project! They do not have a market for 'projects', nor are they big on DIY home improvements, so their 'home improvement stores' are extremely limited in what they carry and product diversity! So, unless you're a professional, know what you're doing, and have access to needed products, it can be a huge hardship. I recently found Mapei products (which is a famous Italian company), but I'm having a hard time understanding the differences between all their products (their package explanation is very vague and repetitive), and which one is best for me to use for my mosaic projects. I loved your explanations on the 3 Mapei products!! Could you please tell me, if you know, the differences between Mapei UltraMastic III or 5, and Mapei Adesilex P22, and for what exactly they are best used for? Those were the products some Italian artists were using here for their mosaic projects; they were using ceramic tiles, stained glass tiles, and smalti on wood, cement, and other base substrates. I would like to better understand in which situation and for what material these Mapei products could be (properly) used. Are any of the Mapei products the equivalent to our U.S.A. thin-set mortar? Also, on the Mapei Keracolor S, sanded grout, you explained that it was modified with polymer. Could you please explain what the added polymer is good for, and in what situation I would want that in my grout? Does Mapei have other grout products that are not sanded or are sanded but without the added polymer- and in what situation are those better to use? Thank you for all your professional advice! I look forward to watching more of your videos. I think you could write a well-advised and easily understood book on creating mosaics; small tile projects that would be a best seller!
i don't know anything about Mapei UltraMastic III or 5, and Mapei Adesilex P22, but if you email MAPEI, they do answer you. I steer clear of mastics, only thinset mortar should ever be used for tiles ever. Mastics often don't cure, and fall apart in humidity. Grout modifiers are for thigs like crack prevention, and sealing the grout to minimize water absorption. They probably have unsanded and unmodified grouts, but yo will have to seal the grout afterwards, and every 5 years.
Hi Jeff, I hope your doing well. I wanted to say thank you soooo much for the time you put in to help us through this detailed video. It was very helpful really appreciate it. Thanks
@@jeffostroff Tell me something else if you know. For kitchen tiles I used a premixed Mapei Ultramastic ECO (ANSI A136.1). This one seems to be stickier than thinset - I remember from when I was a kid that folks used to add wood glue in thinset to make "tile mortar" (grew up in Eastern Europe). Do you have any idea if it's still the case with A136.1 and how does this compare with A118.15T? I have to lay some 12x24 tiles and I don't wanna make a mistake. Also, is the membrane a must? I'm laying it over concrete in some storage underneath the stairs: we want to make a nice storage are that's easy to clean, so we're finishing it with ceramic tiles, paining the wood to seal it and whatnot. I have about 28 sq ft to cover.
@@jeffostroff PS: I actually found the explanation here: www.archtoolbox.com/materials-systems/finishes/tile-mortar-types.html . My use of A136.1 was ill informed (trust the store clerk, never again) - not good for kitchens and humidity. I had this large I had to redo under the stove (moved it along with the furniture pattern) and I was wondering why it didn't cure after 24h - I needed some A118 type mortar.
@@cubul32 I don't like Mastic of any kind. They are glues (technically called organic adhesives in the A1361 spec.), but they are NOT mortars, they are not cement, they are a different animal. Mapei Ultramastic ECO is a Type 1 A136.1 Adhesive, and guess what, you tell me you have 12" x 24" tiles, you can't use this product, it only allows up to 6" x 6" tiles on floors, and 10" x 10" tile son floors. MAPEI may be better than other brands of Mastic I don't know, but the few I tried in the fast were dismal failures, they don't dry hard like mortar, and they don't seem to want to cure either. I can't even imagine anyone using it for floor either. They are not mortars. So there is still movement under them. I used a mastic from in a small container from Home Depot 3 years ago on a linen closet thinking it won't be that bad, no one will walk on it, but 3 days later the tiles can still be wiggled! I swore that's the last time I will try using mastic. All the best tile experts you'll see warn you NEVER use mastic, I have no clue why they even make it. For me, nothing beats tried an true mortar with a good latex modifier. The A115.1 spec refers to an "improved" latex modified thinset mortar when compared to A118.4 or A118.11 modified thinsets. It's simply the best of the best of modified mortars, which Schluter Allset is an A115.1 and LFT. If you plan to use MAPEI, go with their Ultraflex LFT modified tile mortar for large format tile, which you have. Great product, I used it sometimes myself, it resists sag (A115.1TE) on their spec: www.mapei.com/public/US/products/BR_A118.15-EN.pdf
@@jeffostroff I got LFT indeed, same mentality here - the package got a makeover here in Quebec - they call it Large Tile Mortar now (www.rona.ca/en/ultraflex-lft-tile-mortar-21085482). As far as I was reading, the Mastic needs space to evaporate, kinda like Schulter and modified thinset. Mine was 1ft sq or so; but it's mostly under the furniture and a bit under the stove (so it's there for the look in the 1/8 crack). So: I'll be fine. Lesson learned; thanks to you, thank you :) . The more I DYI the more I get serious and start researching and preparing. edit: my board dried in 2-3 days fyi - I could tell it was moving after 24h, really got me worried. Now trying to figure out grout sizes. I could only find a leveling system for 1/16 (Rubi - looks like T lock and whatnot). And I have 1/8 stars from before. I wanted a 1/8 leveling system but Canadian stores are retarded like that sometimes especially in Quebec state (damn French entrepreneurial mentality sometimes but you gotta love them otherwise). How did you choose grout width? So far I understand 1/16 can lead to noticeable lipage but looks good if done well, 1/8 is a great compromise of the two: easy to set but wide grouts are not as "purteeeh".
hi Jeff, great video...1 thing im very impressed with..you answer almost all comments and questiions. I follow alot of diy channels and your the best..thanks
So i figured out that I need unmodified thinset for Kerdi board, but didnt know 12x24 was largeformat and needed Kerabknd T and not just Kerabond. Was trying to save money and now will end up getting schluter All set anyways, and have to sell the Kerabond. Thanks for the video, wish I saw it sooner!
Man... This is one of those videos that is actually worthy of watching all together... For the DIY (me) or Professional. Thank you for your time and effort. I would gladly donate you. I'll suscribe and like for now. Thank you!!!
Yes, this is one of our longer Masterclass videos. You can see how much engineering there really is involved and how much there is to keep track of. A lot of people want to rush through it, but then they end up with failures.
Thank You! Thank You! Thank You! I've been pulling my hair out trying to figure out what mortar to use for 12x24 porcelain tile over Ditra. Wish I would have found you sooner!!🖖
Thank you for such a detail overview of the motar / thinset. It has help me understand the chemistry behind the product. Definitely same me a-lot of time reading super small print at the store and confusion… Thank you.
Great video. Glad I watched this and read your answers to some comments below. I am putting redguard over durock. I will be taking my primix bucket of mortor back to Menards, and getting some high quality bags of modified thinset. Thanks again.
I know this is an older video, but almost everyone is using modified thinsets (including Schluter all-set). All of them (including Schluter) have curing agents that allow curing without the presence of air.
Awesome job on the explanation, I saved the video to my constuction tutorial/ watch later list, for future reference. I learned a lot this morning, thank you! Subbed.
Great, enlightening video.👍🏻I have a very small bath niche project, where I want to install porcelain tile. Can I get away with using unmodified thin set (bought a huge bag for Kerdi band)considering it’s only 14” by 12” space. Even tho it’s in the shower, it is relatively far away from constant water spray/exposure and no grout to be used, just caulk around edges. It’ll be adhered to wood, but i waterproof painted the wood first. Thx!
Yes you can for that small area far away from the water if you already have the mortar, should not be an issue, but I would not do any walls of the wet part of the shower with it. I always buy The Schluter All-Set anyway, so I am covered no matter what substrate I am on.
@@rudysmachado5747 I would just place all the tiles in place and wait a few days before you grout.. If you can wait even a week or so that would be even better because it would give the mortar more time to cure.
I see you are NOT wearing knee pads.I am now sixty,knees are shot,knee pads,knee board and a chunk of styrofoam nearby at all times...VERY GOOD INFORMATIVE VIDEO my friend,a must know.
People tile over tile all the time you may want to roughen it up first with a grinder but it might not really be necessary. The only issue is how is it going to look along the edges? Maybe you can cover up the edges with tile as well cut slivers of tile to cover that up
Can a polymer modified thinset be used with tile under a woodstove, or would heat degrade the polymer? Likewise, would a Schluter Kerdi-board be a problem? Seems that a cement-based backer board would handle the heat better.
Hopefully there's not too much heat coming down but that I'll below it I think would be a insulator to the mortar. You would have to check on the package and see if there was any temperature requirements. I personally don't think there would be a problem with it
For glass they definitely recommend a polymer modified thin set. So far the last few years I've exclusively been using schluter allset Which finally they started to carry at floren décor so now I can just drive up the street to our local Florida décor store and buy the thin set mortar. And whatever you do make sure you only get white. But you also need to double check with wetty about what they prefer on their boards. I suspect they require a latex modified thin set like thinks that like the all set is but you always got a double check on every every item as to what is required.
Thanks for your expertise in the tile department. I laid my first piece of tile last Saturday but didnt know the first thing about it. I bought a decent porter cable tile saw online and then went to home depot and got the tile my wife wanted but ended up spending almost 4 hours in the store reading about what trowel to use then I went to the mortar and holy crap I had no idea which one to get after reading the bags so finally after 2 hours of reading about mortar I think I figured out the right one but I got a quick set and when I had to cut the porcelain for an outlet and maybe jack around for a bit that mortar was like a rock! So I went back to home depot and got the short bus ride slow mortar Haha but your video explained a lot of misconceptions i had about mortar. Thanks again..
Yes I don't Recommend that anybody use fast set tile more unless you've been an expert for years doing it and you have a few people working with you so that 1 person's traveling while another person back Butters and your pieces are already cut ahead of time or you mix up smaller batches Because that fast said water becomes almost unusable in between 15 minutes to 30 minutes whereas when you mix normal thin set mortar you typically have about a 3 hour pot time.
@@110americalovingpatriot2 Yes I would recommend a thin set that has the letters LHT on the bag which stands for large heavy tile. Another type you can use has LFT which simply stands for large format tile but for the wall application I would prefer to use something that can stand up to a large tile that will be heavy once you back butter it. You can check Lowe's or Home Depot but I don't think they carry LHT types of thin set I know that Floor and Décor does sell an LHT mortar and here's one such product from Mapei: www.mapei.com/CA-EN/mobile/product-detail.asp?IDProdotto=2028301359&IDTipo=11520&IDLinea=102
@@jeffostroff awesome 👍thanks for helping me out and sending me the link to the mortar that I need. Your right I didn't see anything at Lowes or Home Depot with LHT OR LFT and even if I did I wouldn't have known what it stood for. I live in the Kansas city area and I dont think we have that store you mentioned but we do have one called The Tile Shop so I guess I will go check them out. I bought a Porter Cable 7" tile saw model PCE980 it's a nice saw I guess I've never used one until I got this one but one thing I noticed is if I cut the tile with the side of the tile facing up that you see after it's in place on the wall I noticed the blade is kind of chipping away at the top while I'm cutting it. Is it supposed to be cut with the display side down or do I need to invest in a better diamond blade? Sorry for all the questions and if you dont respond I totally understand. Here's my email if that's easier and you feel like responding. Thanks for your help again and I greatly appreciate it. moverfelt41@gmail.com
If you manuever over to this link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3UjHPUcGUk8.html Schluter-Ditra Over Wood in a Bathroom (Part 1) - by Home Repair Tutor you'll notice @ about 6:10 of the video the guy who is a professional clearly calls for "Modified" thinset, whereas you state that failure can occur using the exact same product(s) @ about 11:50 of this video. What gives? There clearly a discrepancy here.
Awesome video! I DO appreciate the in-depth information... I'm slowly working through a bathroom remodel myself - and I was thinking of using 12"x24" marble tile on the walls of my shower. From even this thorough explanation, I'm still a bit unsure of what to use - other than the Schluter Allset product, is there something else commercially available to fit this application? Large format tile, impervious backplane, natural stone... What do you think??
I'm using Hydro Ban and porcelain LFT. Since a painted-on membrane is impervious just like Kerdi board, I'm assuming modified thinset would take forever to cure. On the other hand, adhesion would be greater. I'm leaning toward unmodified so I can grout without waiting a month, but I also hear that modified is better most of the time. Any ideas on settling this debate?
Yes, that is what Schluter tells you to do when you have to tile over plywood. Personally, I would screw down 1/4" Wonderboards, I prefer never to mortar over wood.
Thanks for a great video. Would modified thinset mortar technicality not be good for tiling any tile over a waterproof wall such as Kerdi, Red guard, etc since the mortar would be trapped between 2 impervious surfaces?
Phil, it's confusing about whhich manufacturer wants what. Kerdi wants you to use unmodified thinset to tile onto their products. But redgaurd says use modified thinset. I don't know why, I'm simply not a chemical engineer, but it boggles the mind. I just go with what they say. My favorite one to use is Schluter's Allset because it can be used on anything, and as I showed, it supports all the specs of a modified and unmodified thinset.
So from my understanding modified thin set motor is for plywood floor as its a shaky surface , as you might need to put primer before you put thin set motar then ditromatt goes over. In the other hand unmodified thin motar is for concrete floor so you can put insulation board for underfloor heating , plz correct me if I'm wrong thanks. This my first time understanding the two types of thin set modified and un modified.
I would recommend you use Schluter AllSet Mortar, that is what I use, it can be used in any scenario requiring modified or unmodified thinset. Also Schluter's web site has videos showing you how it i sdone at the bottom of their page: www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/Membranes/Uncoupling-%28DITRA%29/Schluter%C2%AE-DITRA-%26-DITRA-XL/p/DITRA?facets=false
You say that you cannot use a modified thinset for Ditra, which is incorrect. Shluter installation guidelines specifically say that a modified thinset needs to be used when adhering Ditra to substrate.
Yes I should have clarified, you cannot use modified on top of DITRA to tile. For adhering DITRA to wood you have no choice, you have to use modified thinset. But I always use All-Set now anyway, so it takes the guesswork out of the equation, and I sleep better at night because Schluter engineered All-Set to work with all their waterproofing and crack isolation membranes.
I spoke with a Mapei tech, and he say's it's because Schluter only tested non modified on their Keri Board. However Mapei has tested all their modified thin modified cements on Kerdi and it certainly works does work. He went on to say Schluter just didn't come out with it first, and they just want everyone to buy their product... making you think you can't use their boards without their floors, and so on. It's all nonsense. So yes, yes you can use any modified thin set on Kerdi. You will void Schluter's warranty maybe. but you won't void Mapei's.
Will modified on Kerdi eventually cure with enough time exposed, before putting tile on. I have condensation appearing on the back of tile as I dry fit 1st row on tub flange?
The one benefit of unmodified thinset is that it is a hydration curing mortar, whereas modified thinset is an evaporation type of curing, so needs things to dry out over 30 days or so. But unmodified thinset thrive and cures better, and it's crystals form better in the presence of moisture. As you know, mortars cure with time each day, so when you get it all tiled, you can let it all rest a day or 2 also no harm in that.
i have my tub shower area ready to tile . walls are 1/2 durock sealed joints and coated with redguard. what would be the correct thinset for my 4x16 white ceramic tiles ? thanks in advance for your reply
Just finished a shower wall tile project with Kurdi. I didn't research the modified vs non-modified thinset application instructions. The walls are porcelain tiled with modified thinset but not grouted . Will the thinset cure if I wait a month before grouting??? What do I do???
For any UK based installer watching fyi Schluter UK allow the use of what this video would call a modified adhesive on top of ditra simply because here in UK good luck finding an unmodified adhesive. The adhesive can be up to an S1 but not an S2.
Can you use thinset as grout. I have thinset coming through my pebble tile,. It's dried and solid as a rock.. oops. If I seal it will it be ok? I have pvc liner water proofing and a mortar bed with aqua defense below tile. The color thinset is similar to grout. It's a mapei thinset
Usually the grouts have sealers in them they help prevent staining and absorption, which thinset does nothave. Why not chisel the thinset out of there and grout it?
With Kurdi board I would be very careful to only use what Schluter recommends. I have been using exclusively the last four years Schluter AllSet modified thinset because Schluter has told us they made it, they are in control of the process and they know that even though it is a modified thinset it will work on their products and it will be perfect so that is what I have been using.
@@victorquiroz3048 I doubt very much that there is any difference and drying time between the 2 tile sizes unless the bag has instructions that specifies otherwise I usually just let it dry overnight. Keep in mind that thin set continues to cure and gain in strength over the next month.
@@victorquiroz3048 redguard requires that you use modified thinset for the tile. Modified thinset is fortified with latex which is organic and is a food source for mold growth. In a shower, you should only use unmodified thinset.
Sorry don't know the answer I have not used wedi, so you will have to check with them, and depending if you use the board or add membrane, that could also change which type of thin set you need. Best to see if they have any videos, or guide on their web site like Schluter does.
Can u help me get or where to purchase the TCNA and the ANSI books for 2023 updated I already passed the law and business exams I failed by 10 questions on the tile trade portion
Great video, I want to put ecoprime and ditra heat over 2x2 inch existing tiles. They are well bonded for 35 years, and almost impossible to remove. what would you use for morter? Modified, or unmodified ?
I use the orange bag Mapei for smaller joints, it has small particles that are like fine sand and it hardly ever sags. Better than the sanded imo, blasphemy I know. Thanks for the vid, I’m still confused tho lol.
Thank Jeff this was an awesome video. I want to tile my backsplash in the kitchen. Its brand new painted wall consisting drywall with a new application of knockdown. The tile size is 3" x 9" and I am going after the standard subway pattern. My question is can I use glue/mastic (If yes what product would you suggest) or if glue is a hard no than what thin-set would you recommend for this application?
With Ditra on plywood subfloor, the directions say you are supposed to use modified thinset under the membrane to adhere the Ditra to the subfloor and then un-modified thinset above the membrane for seams and and to set the tile.
Can you explain the logic why Schluter is the only water proofing system that modified thin-sets are not recommended? What makes it work with all the other manufacturers but not them?
It has to do with the curing so a non-modified thinset will cure and actually strengthen in the presence of moisture. Butt modified thin sets are an evaporative curing which means all moisture must evaporate out of that mortar in order for the mortar to gain its strength and hold the tile walls in the membrane and everything else. So I believe they are likely concerned with any of the mortars that come in contact with their Schluter Kerdi Membrane that mortar will not hold the material well at all unless they are an Un-modified thinset. However, I now use their Schluter AllSet mortar which is believe it or not is a modified thinset mortar but it is their modified mortar that they make under their control so you can use it no matter what.
@@jeffostroff Thank you for your response. My question is more why is Schluter the only one concerned by this? If modified thinsets cause a problem because the thinset can't dry out, wouldn't that be a problem for literally every other water proof membrane on the planet?
I use alino système. The membrane seems exactly the same as shlutter. If you check their video Installation they tell you to use modify thin set for membrane and tiles. So im confuse. Im gonna try to call them see what they have to say about that
I installed 1/2" cement board around tub, then after some research purchased the Kerdi Membrane to go over the cement board. Is this recommended or completely wrong? I can not find any information on this and want to avoid any failures, unmodified thinset is what I was planning on purchasing.
Yes, that is fine, I attached Kerdi to Haribacker board, but you can also attach it to cement board, using the unmodified thinset. Of cours enowadays I prefer th eKerdi boards, which are the wall board,s but very light and you don't have to mess with applying the kerdi membrane, as it's already intigrated into the Kerdi Board.
@@jeffostroff I've done Kerdi over cement board - perfectly fine. I did this to avoid the costs of using the Kerdi boards...after doing a few showers I've discovered that using the Kerdi boards (orange foam) is actually basically the SAME price when all is said and done...plus working with the foam is MUCH easier and faster and WAY WAY less mess (from the concrete boards)...so don't cheap out - use the Kerdi boards as they don't save you $ in material cost and actually might make the job faster - certainly less mess b/c you don't have to deal with all the crumbling and dust of the concrete boards. Good info.
What to use for an outside kitchen island? Thin brick application over cement board. I’m trying some masonry mix by quickrete but it just seems too sandy
I tried soaking polymer modified thinset in vinegar and the thinset was all gone, it melted. The non enriched one was not affected when soaking in vinegar
