Motorcycle Charging System Check and Stator Replacement 

Hello there! I stumbled into this channel saw the video, very nicely explained and detailed content. I'm staying here! you got a subscriber!

Great video buddy!! Nicely illustrated and confidence inspiring to a novice wrencher 🤗

Best information and clearly explained. Thank you. Love saving money. Subbed 👍

Cool clip, I just bought a Yamaha XJ6SL diversion 2010 with just 4794 km's on the clock for $4850.00, but on my first ride today, the battery went dead, so I'll put it on charger, to be able to start the bike, then I'll check it with multimeter and go from there, thanks man.

Loved the video man. U made it fun. 😂 and that's exactly what my bike doing. Thanks!

WTH ! You’re amazing man ❤️

Great vid bro helped me a lot I’ve a ktm 950 sm and battery charge issues just took a gamble and brought a new rectifier but knowing my luck it’s the stator …. We will see soon

Hey brother! 08 R6 here. Should we apply any sealant onto other areas of the gasket? Both sides? One, if any at all?

Literally exactly what you were explaining in the beginning of the video happened to me. And thanks for helping me confirm it was my stator that stopped working!

What year was this bike I have. A 2000 yzf r1 just wondering if procedure is the same

I have a dead short on the red main fuse. I traced the red wire from the battery, to the fuse,down to the six wire connector. Tested from that point, back to the battery, (no short). Tested the large two red wires, and are showing both wires a dead short . My question is, if the stator is bad, will it cause a dead short on the two red wires?

Back in 2008 I bought a 1989 Yamaha FJ1200. About a year later it died on the road. Took it to a dealer and they said it was the stater. They fixed it and about a month later it died again. Took it back. They fixed it again. It died again. I sold it for 1k and told the guy what happened. He had a wrecked FJ and between the 2 he could make one functioning bike. Not sure if he ever did.

Very informative video. I am currently helping my friend fixing his 2010 XJ 600N, the chargning on the running engine osciliates around 14V, so that would imply the stator is in perfect working condition. We also checked that all three pairs of pins in the stator show the same values at the same RPMs, so our guess is the faulty voltage regulator rectifier.

Merci très bien explique..👍👍

Gracias por el video, me es muy util en estos momentos

There are only 4 elements to charging (and potential issues with it) and these are 1. the battery, 2. the stator, 3. the rectifier/regulator and 4. the plugs & cabling, including fuses. Prior to anything else, I'd see if the connection of wires to the battery is OK, as those may get lose over time. It's indeed the VERY first thing to ALWAYS look at, as it's an easy and quick check a/o fix. BTW for lose connections I recommend using copper paste - it is conductive and secures the bolts & nuts in their place firmly. Then, I would check for any current leaks on the battery, and if so, I'd skip to checking all the wires and connectors and fuses immediately. Otherwise, I'd measure the battery voltage and then I'd see if it is being charged with the engine turned on (idle vs ~4 or ~5k RPM). BTW I'm using a cheap car-charger plug-in device (I have the plug installed on my bike), which - apart from providing me with a USB port for charging my phone or camera - shows me the current battery voltage level and to not drain the battery unnecessarily, I just need to pull it out after a ride. Afterwards, I'd check the connectors between the battery & stator & RR & the rest of the bike - some could be melted (typically I'd see a short there) or have a faulty connection (intermittent or permanent break). If so, 1:1 replacement should be the way to go. Then I'd test stator - an indication of a faulty one would be, if there is continuity between each of the connectors and the frame OR continuity between any two stator output connectors (1-2, 1-3, 2-3). If these checked out fine, I'd test its AC voltage output - it should be within limits put in the bike's service manual. Then I'd test the OEM(-ish) RR, if the diodes are OK - meaning, if they let the current flow in one direction only (*). If so, I'd test its output (with everything connected & the engine running), where the DC voltage should again be within limits given by the bike's manual (again, idle vs high RPMs test) - typically, service manuals recommend measuring this directly on the battery and the numbers given in the manual most of the time refer to that particular type of measurement. If the battery still does not charge up (sufficiently), I'd go through fuses and cabling (continuity tests) and connectors - here, unplugging one by one and observing the result ALWAYS leads to positively identifying the faulty part. (*) the diode test is of course not available for MOSFET RRs, however, these generally fail very rarely; for comparison, the OEM(-ish) ones tend to have an overheating issue, as the thyristors in those get rid of any abundant current by converting it to heat (MOSFETs typically send it back to the stator)

while changing out the stator is it also good to change out the rectifier or is it ok to leave the old one in there (my bike is from 1998 and seem like nothing right was done on it just curious if I should just say screw it and get a new one all together)

Bad ass video. Thanks brother.

Well if it is a Harlery or any bike fitted with a charging pig-tail for a battery tender, you could check the voltage there.I did want to see that stator.

Great video

Hi im blowing 30amp fuses , bike starts on electric start but once running generally blows the main 30amp fuse .. lights flicker/ pulse before fuse blowing .! Battery tested as good by bike shop .. any ideas please . Thank you . 👊✌️

What if I still have low voltage even after installing a new stator and a new regulator?

nice wanne,i just start to do it,thanks pal.

Hey this might be a silly question but do you think it’s alright to reuse my oil. Sense my oils pretty new. Probably only a few hundred miles or less on it. I plan to replace my stator on a 2012 zx6r

I have two different plugs. The plug on the stator and the rectifier are different what to do

New subscriber! This channel is awesome. My 2013 ninja Zx6r won’t start now. New battery and will crank but won’t turn over. I think I’m experiencing the same issue. Do you recommend replacing the stator and the rectifier together?

I need your opinion regarding an issue on my scooter. I´m having a strange behavior on my scooter (SYM VS 125 2010): If I disconnect the connector with 3 yellow wires from stator to rectifier, the engine works fine. If I connect it, the engine misfiring at 4000 rpm. What is the normal output voltage on 3 yellow wires from the stator? I'm getting 26V on idle and almost 100V at 4000 rpm. Exactly when the engine starts to fail. Isn't it too much? I've checked continuity on coils (ok), replaced the rectifier and battery. Bad stator? Another suggestion?

My friend installed a new stator,Put the case back on and started it,Then took the cover off and sealed it,Then does it matter where the flywheel is positioned at all after he started it?

What tools do I need to replace the sator on a road star 1700 2007

Hello will this process be the same for my 2008 R6S

Man I'm having problems with my road star though it was the carb but had it cleaned and tuned and still starts to back fire then shuts off after like 10mins of ridding thinking it's the stator? Any help would be appreciated

Just replaced my stator on my 07 r6 with OEM. Still not charging, battery is new. I’m hoping not a wiring issue.

Now i noticed that the connection that connects to my rectifier is not the one that is on the stator. I have a 2004 yamaha yzf r6. The piece that connects onto the rectifier is bad and i need a new one. ( its the 3 on the top 2 on the bottom connection with a gap in the middle) iam having a hard time finding this piece. Can you help!

I have a 01 fz1 and am having a hard time removing the flywheel to get to my stator, any tips?

Hey quick question, what if I opened the stator cover without draining the oil? I know the oil will come out from the stator cover but is there any problem with that?

Was the stator damaged or do they just wear out over time?

I have a 2003 1600 road star, I tested the battery while running and not running and got a reading of 11.4 that means I need a stator correct?

i have a suzuki bandit 650n, and the charge generating stator burned! do you know how many turns i should make on each coil?

Do you have to drain all the oil?

Soooooo is that stater going to go bad soon like that other one?

I have a Vstar XVS650 not chargimg, rectifier passed the test but I have a descrepancy with the stator testing I measured 0.8 ohms in each coil but the AC test is good, the service manual specs is no more taht 0.5 ohms, realy that small defference can be the issue

If my bolts stripped while being removed, what can I use to replace them??

Yamaha cdi v Star 950 tried every thing no current flow into coil wire's

Would the stator also not provide spark to coil even with a full charge battery?

Was that the old oil you put back in?

R u located in Atlanta. I need to bring my bike to you I got same problem

Hello there Moto Medic from Houston. I have a 2003 Yamaha Road Star Silverado that went dead. Along with melting the battery terminals. Only had the bike a couple weeks after buying it until breaking down. It’s been parked I. My back yard since. It ran like a beast when it was working. Thankfully I also have a 2015 Yamaha R3 to ride. Now I’m not sure whether to buy a used engine & transmission or just have my bike towed to a shop to get fixed or rebuilt or have a used engine and transmission installed. I found a 14,000 mile 2002 engine & transmission for 1500 bucks on eBay. The carbs I’m thinking needs adjusting or maintenance also. Anyway any input would be much appreciated 🤘🏼

If you changed the stator previously why did you have to replace it again?

I have a 2016 nija 300,is it the same?

Quick question Brotha . Does the stator have too look shot if it needs to be changed ? Mines looks pretty brand new but pretty sure it’s a stator issue

complete motorcycle noobie here, is that stator the equivelent of the alternator in a car?

The magnets were missing from that flywheel...

Hey bro you still here to help? Lol jus got a code 46 on mine im like tbh almost sure its the same thing? Where did you order yours from?

Do you recomend oem or aftermarket is good?

Mine won't even turn over? I replaced the battery checked all wires it cranks up but wont turn over.. please help

My 1999 V Star won’t start. Even with a new battery and a new Rectifier and a new Starter relay that’s connected to the battery. When I put the key in start and try to crank it. Nothing happens. You can Barley see the Neutral light come on and sometimes when I have it hooked up to a battery charger and leave it for a few minutes the lights get a little brighter and you can hear the clicking from the Fuel Pump but still no start from the engine

Any Idea why it has been through more than 1 stator?

Hay man can you help me ?.. if my stator is bad would my bike still start ?

Same bike same problem r6s

How do I know if it’s the stator or regulator rectifier ?

Why does the stator keeps burning out?

2011 r1 won't start. It cranks but won't turn over sitting at 12.6

Wait there's not supposed to be oil in the stator is there?!

do you respond to comments

Fix the problem change the magneto that is why the bike keeps coming back

Good lord fix your intro audio dawg blew out my ear drums.