OMG thank you so much for posting a video like this. My wife and I were gifted a Mr. Coffee maker for our wedding 10 years ago and it just went out. I feel like I have to fix this for our marriage sake :)
Nice video Mike. Thank you for sharing. Found the part number in the comments (NTE8213 216 C). Both mine are shot and so is the thermal switch. One tip on those security screws is that once you get them off (cheap security bits are available from many sources), replace them with standard screws (most of us have an old cup of screws from tearing apart other small appliances!).
Thank you for this video. Our Mr Coffee broke today. I went to Fry's today and purchased the same part# NTE8213 for $1.89.00. I crimped it and it works like a charm. In this disposable world, I refuse to throw things away.
Thank you so much. I have the knowledge to figure out the heating element went bad somehow, but not the expertise to fix it myself. Troubleshooting this was such a pain. If I had to read "have you tried cleaning it" one more time...
Hi, you got the closest to defining the issue with my simple KRUPS drip coffee maker, but it’s configured differently, and I haven’t found the thermal fuses yet. Thanks though. I’m glad you’re back in business.
I’ve had this same coffee maker for 13 years. It finally stopped heating. I like it because it’s one of the few coffee makers that has a standard toggle switch to turn it on. I use Alexa to turn my coffee on so electronic coffee makers won’t work with Alexa. You need a coffee maker that has a hard wired switch. I’m about to open up the coffee maker and do some troubleshooting. This video mentioned a ‘security’ screw with an odd shaped head. I think any company that doesn’t use philips or common screws should be put out of business. They intentionally try to prevent people from fixing anything because of greed. I wouldn’t doubt if the company that makes these coffee makers also make that damned odd shaped screw. Odd shaped screws began to appear in the mid 80s. I’ve worked on countless cars and i noticed how car companies were putting dozens of new screws with odd heads in the 1980s. Again, they did this out of greed. There are no reasons to use anything other than Phillips or common head screws. Car companies declared war on home car mechanics in the 1980s. They also added dozens of new bolts on the frame and engine. Of course, these same companies sold the screwdrivers and wrenches that were needed to work on cars. I’ve always wondered why people don’t get outraged at companies who are constantly using every tactic in the world to steal from people.
Thanks for the video : I got lucky for now . I unplugged 5 min.. then the hot plate got warm.. I unplugged and put water in Reservoir a couple times. Then dumped it out. Coffee grounds got in the water reservoir. Now the heating plate heats up and the coffee Brews again. It's alive
R-VAC Electronics went out of business in 2017. The site list two other sites that have 'VAC' in the name... Hmmmm... Just use a 3/8" drill bit and drill the standoff out. Don't worry about replacing the screws, they're not needed to hold the bottom on. It's Mr Coffee's attempt to keep you from repairing their junk pots. :)
The strange thing about my dead Mr. Coffee is that *_both_* of the thermal fuses are open. I guess that happened because the manufacturer foolishly used two identical thermal fuses, from the same batch, from the same manufacturer -- which means that two fuses are probably no better than one. On mine there were two "security screws" -- both "T15 security bit" Torx. They were quite deeply recessed, too so you need a long bit to reach them.
Hello, I'm having a similar problem with my Mr Coffee. I checked and there is continuity on both of the fuses but I'm not getting continuity on that third point you checked. The two nodes going to the heating element itself. The light comes on when it is plugged in and switched on but it doesn't heat up and the coffee does not brew. Do you have any idea what might be wrong with mine? Thank you for the video. Cheers.
Mine has continuity across both thermal fuses and the thermal switch, but no heat. No continuity across heating element. Not sure what a good reading would be. I do get full voltage drop across heating element, but still no heat. Any ideas?
My situation is that I've tested thermofuse, thermostat and heating element and they all have continuity. I am wondering what else could it be? Bad logic board?
@@High-Voltage1 ok thanks should it be a thin wire so if it heats up to much the wire can snap kinda a bit easier to replace hah I appreciate you replying back
Does not matter, it wont act as a fuse in case of overheating. BTW Im done with Mr. Coffee products and their multiple points of failure. last December I switch to a Keurig with a pot and a self cleaning feature and I'm loving it. Mr. Coffee only last for 1 year and takes forever to brew.
The sound in this video is horrible. Cannot hear it turned up all way. Does not even show how to test the thermal fuse. The thermostat is more likely be the part to fail. You can get those parts off Ebay from a China seller. Why pay a middleman money to sell you the same crap.
I'm so so sorry you have hearing trouble, I was not able to wait weeks to get a $2.00 part from China, I wanted coffee in the morning. I will try to live up to your standards in the future. BTW my coffee maker is still going strong, Michael.
